In the world of antiques and collectibles, the ability to describe an object accurately is both an art and a science. To the uninitiated, the task may seem daunting, but it's essential for valuation, provenance research, and ensuring authenticity.
This guide will illuminate some of the important elements of effective description, providing a foundation for anyone seeking to accurately catalog their treasured possessions.
When Describing an Object, It Is Crucial to Include Details Such As...
Year
If the year the object was produced is known or can be determined always include this point in the description.
Maker or Manufacturer
The maker of an object is one of the most important details to record. Whether it is a painting, sculpture, or piece of furniture, the maker—be it an individual artist or a manufacturer—provides context, historical significance, and often a significant portion of the object's value.
Artworks. For fine art, identifying the artist is a key data point. Is it a Picasso or a lesser-known contemporary? The distinction could mean a difference of millions.
Antiques and Collectibles. In the realm of antiques, the maker could be a cabinetmaker like Thomas Chippendale or a porcelain manufacturer like Meissen. This information not only reveals quality but also cultural and historical context.
Automobiles. For cars, the manufacturer (e.g., Ford or Aston Martin) conveys essential information about style, performance, and pedigree. The maker’s reputation and the year in which the vehicle was produced are critical considerations.
Always inspect the object carefully for maker’s marks, signatures, or logos, which might be subtle or hidden.
Brand
In some instances, the brand differs from the maker, and this distinction is critical. Brands often carry their own cachet and market recognition, independent of the manufacturer.
Examples. While Mattel is the maker of Barbie dolls, "Barbie" is the brand. Similarly, Hot Wheels is a brand owned by Mattel.
Why It Matters. Brands evoke emotional resonance and can significantly influence value. For collectors, a branded object often has an established niche market, complete with dedicated resources for research and valuation.
Dimensions
Accurate measurements are indispensable when cataloging an object. Dimensions not only help determine the practicality of owning or displaying an item but also serve as a means of authentication.
Artwork and Posters. For example, an authentic 20th-century movie poster often measures 27 x 41 inches, while modern reprints tend to measure 24 x 36. Such distinctions can make the difference between a rare, valuable collectible and a decorative reproduction.
Sculptures and Furniture. For sculptures, the height, width, and depth are essential, while with furniture, additional measurements like seat height or drawer dimensions are important.
Precision is key. Use a reliable measuring tool and include units (inches, centimeters) to avoid confusion.
Type of Item
Personal property falls into broad and specific categories, and accurately identifying the type of item is a fundamental goal of description.
Category. Examples include wine, coins, cars, paintings, dolls, stamps, and countless others. Within each category, subcategories further delineate objects. For instance, coins can be modern, ancient, or commemorative.
Why It Matters. Proper categorization ensures that the object reaches the correct audience, whether it is being appraised, sold, or simply studied.
Pertinent Markings or Text
Experts instinctively inspect an object for markings, which can range from a signature on a painting to a hallmark on silverware. These details often tell the object's story.
Locations to Check. Examine the back, bottom, or edges of the item. On paintings, inspect the canvas stretcher or frame for handwritten notes. For ceramics, turn the piece over to locate maker’s marks or stamps.
Text or Inscriptions. Textual elements such as engravings, dedications, or even handwritten notes can provide clues to the item's history or ownership.
Photograph and record these details carefully, as they are often pivotal in determining authenticity and value.
Model Name or Number
The model name or number is another critical piece of information, particularly for manufactured items.
Examples. A Ford Mustang differs significantly from a Ford Taurus, and collectors want precise details about the model year and trim. Similarly, a Rolex Submariner and a Rolex Datejust are distinct models with differing markets and values.
Where to Look. Model numbers are often engraved, stamped, or printed discreetly on the item. For watches, they are typically found on the case back or inside the case; for electronics, they may be on a label or engraved on the body.
Country of Origin
The country where an object was produced offers crucial information about its materials, craftsmanship, and cultural significance.
Historical Context. A violin made in 18th-century Italy, for instance, may suggest a connection to the celebrated Stradivari workshop, whereas a modern reproduction from another country will carry less significance.
Trade Practices. Country of origin can also reflect historical trade practices and geopolitical influences, adding layers of narrative to the object.
Look for clear indicators, such as stamps, labels, or written documentation, to confirm the object's origin.
Suggested Reading
For those seeking to refine their descriptive skills, the following resources provide invaluable guidance: Books The Art of Authentication by David Lee
Collecting and Provenance by Charlotte Wood
Antique Trader Antiques & Collectibles Price Guide by Eric Bradley
Each resource delves into the nuances of cataloging, from identifying makers to decoding marks, and provides case studies for practical application.
Conclusion
In closing, the art of description is both a meticulous practice and a gateway to understanding the objects we cherish. By paying close attention to the maker or manufacturer, brand, dimensions, type of item, markings, model name or number, and country of origin, you can paint a vivid picture of any item’s identity.
For the uninitiated, these details might seem overwhelming at first. However, with time, practice, and the right resources, describing art, antiques, and collectibles becomes a rewarding journey into history, culture, and craftsmanship.
So pick up your magnifying glass, take careful notes, and start your cataloging adventure with confidence.
All authentic Morgan silver dollars are worth money, but some are worth more than others. Morgan dollars were issued by the United States Mint beginning in 1878. The last Morgan dollar was released in 1921. More recently, the Mint began issuing a Morgan dollar in 2021. All pre-1922 Morgan dollars are made of 90% silver and weigh about 26.73 grams, so they have significant value simply for their silver content. Beware of fakes! Morgan dollars weighing 24 or 25 grams are fake.
Here is a list of Morgan dollars that are rare or harder-to-find. Those not listed here are considered to be common.
For years, iGuide has been the go-to source for accurate, real-world pricing on collectibles, antiques, and a range of other unique items. As we continue to grow and expand our offerings, we're excited to introduce a new payment model that will better meet the needs of our users: a credit-based system.
Why Switch to a Credit-Based System?
In today's digital landscape, content consumers are increasingly hesitant to commit to yet another monthly subscription. The frustration of dealing with recurring charges, especially when only using a service occasionally, has led to a growing preference for credit-based payment systems. This approach allows users to pay for services on an as-needed basis, giving them the flexibility to choose when and how they want to access pricing information.
iGuide’s credit-based system is designed with this in mind. Rather than locking users into a fixed monthly fee, our platform will offer a simple, pay-per-credit option. This allows individuals to access detailed, accurate appraisals without committing to a long-term subscription, making it easier and more affordable to get the information they need when they need it.
How iGuide’s Credit System Will Work
Here's what you can expect when we roll out our new system later this year:
Cost Per Credit: Each credit will be priced at $5.
Appraisal Cost: Each appraisal will require one credit. For example, if you need appraisals for 20 items, you would purchase 20 credits at $5 each.
Subscription Options: For those who frequently use our service, we will offer monthly subscriptions starting at $19.95. This plan will include up to five appraisals per month. Additional subscription levels will be available, offering a reduced cost per appraisal for higher usage.
Our top-notch development team is hard at work building this system, and we anticipate a launch later this year.
Examples of Successful Credit-Based Models
iGuide is not alone in adopting this flexible approach. Many successful online platforms have embraced credit-based systems, finding that users appreciate the ability to pay only for what they need:
1. Adobe Stock: One of the most popular stock image services, Adobe Stock, allows users to purchase image credits rather than opting for a subscription. This is ideal for individuals and businesses that might need high-quality images only occasionally, as they can buy credits upfront and use them whenever needed.
2. Audible: Although Audible offers monthly memberships, it also operates on a credit-based system, where users receive one credit per month to exchange for any audiobook. For those who listen less frequently, credits can be banked and used later, providing flexibility and eliminating pressure to consume content immediately.
3. Depositphotos: Like Adobe Stock, Depositphotos offers a credits-based system, where users buy credits to download images or videos. This system benefits users who don't need a subscription but still want access to professional content as needed.
These examples illustrate a broader trend in the digital space: consumers want to pay for specific services they use, not be tied down by recurring charges. By adopting this model, iGuide aims to meet the preferences of our user base and offer a more tailored experience.
Why Credit Payments Are Replacing Traditional Subscriptions
Credit systems are gaining popularity because they offer a middle ground between full subscriptions and one-time purchases. They give users the flexibility to pay only for the content or services they actually need. This model also helps businesses reduce churn by offering an alternative to customers who might otherwise cancel a subscription due to infrequent usage.
Key benefits of a credit-based system include:
Cost Control: Users can budget effectively, purchasing only what they need without worrying about recurring monthly charges.
Flexibility: This model accommodates both frequent and occasional users, making it easier for people to access services without feeling obligated to use them within a certain timeframe.
Transparency: There’s no hidden fees or complex pricing structures—just a clear, straightforward pay-as-you-go system.
What’s Next for iGuide
As we roll out this new payment system, we want to ensure it reflects our commitment to providing value and convenience for our users. The move to a credit-based system will allow us to cater to both casual users looking to appraise a few items as well as estate appraisers and dedicated collectors who need regular, in-depth appraisals.
By making this shift, iGuide will provide an enhanced, user-friendly experience that aligns with modern consumer preferences—helping you gain the pricing knowledge you need, precisely when you need it.
The Fight'n Rooster brand holds a unique niche amongst collectors thanks to its blend of German craftsmanship and distinctive designs. Here's a glimpse into its story:
The Rooster Crows in 1976
The Fight'n Rooster brand was born in 1976, the brainchild of Frank Busterf of Lebanon, Tennessee. Dissatisfied with American manufacturers fulfilling his special order requests, he embarked on a different path.
Destination: Solingen, Germany
Frank partnered with the renowned Olbertz factory in Solingen, Germany, known for its expertise in knifemaking. He drew inspiration from vintage celluloid patterns of the 1940s, breathing new life into them with German steel and craftsmanship.
Mark of the Roosters
Early Fight'n Rooster knives (1976-1982) displayed a simple tang stamp with two fighting roosters and "Solingen" or "Germany" markings. Later iterations saw the addition of "Frank Buster Cutlery Company" and "Frank Buster Celebrated Cutlery" alongside the roosters.
Beyond Pocketknives
While traditionally known for pocketknives like stockmans and trappers, Fight'n Rooster expanded its repertoire. Fixed-blade knives, hunting companions, and even commemorative pieces showcased the brand's versatility.
A Family Affair
Following Frank's passing in 2007, his son Stirling Buster carried the torch. Today, under Stirling's stewardship, Fight'n Rooster knives continue to be produced in Solingen, maintaining the brand's focus on quality and distinct aesthetics.
Legacy of Passion
Though not as widely recognized as some American giants, Fight'n Rooster holds a special place in the hearts of collectors. Their knives embody a unique blend of German precision and Frank's original vision, offering a distinct alternative to mainstream brands.
Collecting the Crowing
Dating Fight'n Rooster knives can be tricky due to production overlaps and tang stamp variations. Collectors rely on resources like Joe Parker's "Fight'n Rooster Knives Reference Guide" and forums like BladeForums to navigate the nuances.
Looking Ahead
Today, Fight'n Rooster remains a relatively small operation, but its dedicated following ensures its place in the knife world. Whether you're a seasoned collector or simply appreciate unique craftsmanship, a Fight'n Rooster knife holds within it a story of passion, grit, and the unwavering spirit of the Fighting Roosters themselves.
These grades show how worn a lighter is. They follow rules used for years to keep things clear when buying, selling, or talking about lighters. Grading helps with consistency in the buying, selling, and advertising of collectible lighters.
UNUSED GRADES
The term UNUSED refers to a piece which has never been used. It has never been filled with fluid, fired or struck, or used. The unused grades range from a perfect A+ to an unused but showing signs of wear B.
Unused lighters can be divided into four major categories:
A+
MIB (10) STILL SEALED.Mint in box. LIKE NEW. The highest grade available. Where appropriate, the lighter is still inside its OMP (Original Manufacturer's Packaging). The orange seal is intact. Such a piece on close inspection shows NO scratches, dents, or other evidence of handling or contact. It is literally like the day it was made.
A
MINT (9).LIKE NEW. The lighter is like new and has the original orange seal still intact but is lacking its original packaging. Otherwise C10.
B+
UNUSED NEAR MINT (8). NOT SEALED. Has some distracting contact marks or blemishes in prime focal areas. Luster may be impaired.
B
UNUSED VERY FINE (7). NEVER STRUCK. All original parts. Refers to a lighter which has a moderate number of scratches on its surface. A few minor edge nicks may be present, although they must not be of a serious nature. Surface may be spotted or lack some luster.
USED GRADES
Lighters that have been carried and lit are USED. They have been in circulation, meaning they have been handled, pocketed, and carried, sometimes for decades. As a result, they are worn to one degree or another. Collectors have established the following grades for rating just how used a lighter actually is:
C+
USED FVF (6) — FINE VERY FINE.
The wick has been lit, and the lighter has been carried and used, but it remains in excellent overall condition. Minimal wear is visible on the surface, and the insert may show signs of fluid use but is otherwise in good condition. Specific details on wear and fluid use should be noted.
C
USED FINE (5) — FIRED.
The lighter shows small traces of wear on the highest points, indicating regular use. The insert may have residue from fluid, and the wick may show signs of use. Specific information on the condition of the insert, fluid residue, and surface wear should be itemized.
C-
USED VERY GOOD (2) — NOTICEABLE WEAR.
Wear is evident on nearly all high points, with at least half of the original mint luster still present. The insert likely shows clear signs of fluid use and wear, and the lighter may have minor dents or scratches across its surface.
D
USED GOOD (1.5) — HEAVILY WORN.
This grade reflects heavy overall wear, with most design details worn down. The insert shows significant use, likely with fluid stains, a used wick, and overall signs of extensive handling. Luster is generally only seen in protected areas.
D-
USED FAIR (1) — FIRED AND WORN.
The lighter is heavily worn, with the insert and case showing significant signs of use. It has been filled, fired, and carried extensively, resulting in a well-worn appearance. All original parts are present, but the condition reflects heavy use.
F
POOR (0.5) — JUNK.
The worst possible grade, is where the lighter is rusty, incomplete, and may be missing parts. The insert is likely damaged, with severe wear or rust. Such lighters are typically used for parts rather than as collectibles.
To find out how old your Hummel figurine is, look on the underside and find the Goebel trademark stamp, usually imprinted in blue. This is the official trademark stamp of Goebel. It will be found on all authentic Hummel figurines.
The look of the trademark has varied since 1935. Most of the known marks used over the years are shown here. Nevertheless, from time to time, an undocumented variation may surface.
Compare the trademark on the base of your Hummel to the date stamp chart below.
1935-1949 aka TMK 1
1950-1956 aka TMK 2
1957-1963 aka TMK 3
1964-1971 aka TMK 4
1972-1978 aka TMK 5
1979-1990 aka TMK 6
1991-1999 aka TMK 7
2000-Present aka TMK 8
Collectors use the TMK designations to indicate which trademark is stamped on the base of the figurine they have. This information, if you can supply it to us, is helpful in appraising and making an offer for your item.
From 1946 through 1948 it was necessary to add the stamped words "Made in the U.S. Zone Germany." This mark was used within various types of frames or without a frame, underglazed or stamped over the glaze in black ink.
In 1950, four years after Sister M.I. Hummel's death, Goebel wished in some way to pay tribute to her fine artistry. They radically changed the trademark, instituting the use of a bee flying high with a "V". (Hummel means bumble bee in German and the V stands for Verkaufsgesellschaft or distribution company). This mark, known as the full bee trademark, was used until 1955 and appeared --- sometimes both incised and under-glazed---in black or blue and occasionally in green or magenta. In addition, the stamp "Germany" and later "West Germany" appeared. A (R) appearing beside the trademark stands for "Registered".
Sometimes the molds were produced with a lightly incised circle on the bottom of the base in which the trademark was centered. It has no significance other than as a target for the location of the decal. Some current production figurines still have this incised circle even though it is no longer used for that purpose.
Always searching for a mark that would blend aesthetics with professionalism, the company continued to modify the trademark. In 1956, the company---still using the bee inside the V---made the bee smaller, with its wings parallel with the top of the V. In 1957, the bee remained, although once again rising slightly above the V. In 1958, the bee was smaller still and it flew deep within the V, reflecting the changing trends in modern design. The year 1959 saw the beginning of stylization and the wings of the bee became sharply angular.
In 1960, the completely stylized bee with V mark came into use, appearing with "W. Germany". It was used in one form or another until 1979. In addition to its appearance with "W. Germany" to the right (1960-1963), it appeared above the "West Germany" (1960-1972) and to the left of the "three line mark" (mid-1960s to 1972). The three line mark was used intermittently and sometimes concurrently with the small stylized 1960-1972 mark. It was the most prominent trademark in use prior to the "Goebel bee" trademark.
It became apparent that the public was equating the "V and Bee" mark only with M.I. Hummel items, not realizing that the mark included the full scope of Goebel products. It was decided to experiment further with marks. In 1972, satisfied that it now had a mark designating a quality Goebel product, the company began using a printed "Goebel" with the stylized bee poised between the letters "b" and "e".
Since 1976, the Goebel trademark on Hummel figurines has been imprinted on top of the glaze (called a "decal." It is possible for two figurines on the primary market to have differing decals.
In 1979, the stylized bee was dropped and only the name Goebel appears. The year of production will be on the base next to the initials of the chief decorator.
In 1991, the W. (West) was dropped, with only the word "Germany" remaining, since Germany is once again a united country. The original "crown" has been added to the (TM7) trademark.
In the year 2000, the beginning of a new Millennium, the trademark was once again changed. The "bumblebee" symbol, to honor the memory of Sister Maria Innocentia Hummel, was reinstated to the (TM8) current trademark.
The information in this article is a concise documentation of all W. Goebel trademarks used on "M.I. Hummel" figurines. Yet, it is always possible that a few undocumented variations may exist.
The action figure market remains a dynamic and evolving sector within the broader collectibles economy. As of mid-2024, the market reflects both strong demand for certain vintage and limited-edition figures and an oversupply of mass-produced figures that have failed to retain or appreciate in value.
Market Dynamics: Supply and Demand
The principle of supply and demand plays a crucial role in determining the value of action figures. Rare and vintage figures with limited production runs, particularly those from the 1980s and 1990s, continue to see high demand. These figures, often tied to nostalgia and iconic franchises, command premium prices on platforms like eBay.
Conversely, modern mass-produced figures, particularly those tied to less popular franchises or overproduced lines, suffer from an oversupply issue. Collectors are increasingly discerning, focusing their spending on pieces that offer rarity, historical significance, or unique features.
Example Prices from eBay Auctions
Treasure:
A 1985 Transformers G1 Optimus Prime (Complete) recently sold for $1,500. This figure's value is bolstered by its condition, completeness, and the enduring popularity of the Transformers franchise.
A 1984 Star Wars Vintage Kenner Boba Fett (Factory Sealed) fetched $2,800. The value here is driven by Boba Fett's iconic status and the rarity of factory-sealed items from this era.
Trash:
A 2022 Marvel Legends Eternals Figure (Loose)) sold for $8. This figure, from a line tied to a less successful Marvel film, is widely available and has not gained traction with collectors.
A 2010 DC Universe Classics Aquaman (Loose) went for $12. Despite being a popular character, overproduction and a lack of unique features have kept prices low.
What’s Hot and What’s Not
Hot:
Figures tied to iconic franchises with strong fan bases, such as **Star Wars**, **Transformers**, and **G.I. Joe**, particularly those from the 1980s and early 1990s. Limited edition and exclusive figures from modern lines, such as San Diego Comic-Con exclusives, also see strong demand.
Not:
Figures from less popular or overproduced lines, like those from the **Eternals** or **G.I. Joe: Classified** series, struggle to maintain their value due to high availability and lower demand.
Conclusion
The current action figure market favors quality, rarity, and nostalgia. Collectors are willing to pay a premium for well-preserved vintage items and limited-edition modern figures, while mass-produced and less iconic figures struggle to find buyers. As the market continues to evolve, savvy collectors and sellers should focus on acquiring and preserving figures that meet these criteria.
Passwordless login is a method of authentication that allows users to access accounts and services without the need to remember and input a traditional password. Instead, it relies on alternative forms of verification, such as a one-time code sent via SMS or email, biometric data (fingerprint or facial recognition), or even hardware tokens. This approach not only simplifies the login process but also enhances security by reducing the risk associated with password theft and reuse.
Importance in Web-Based Software Services Evolution
The significance of passwordless login in the evolution of web-based software services stems from the growing frustration among users over managing an increasing number of passwords for different services. The traditional password system is becoming a bottleneck for user experience, leading to "password fatigue" – a scenario where users are weary of creating new passwords and remembering them. In the current digital landscape, where security breaches are common, a passwordless approach offers a more secure and user-friendly alternative, mitigating the risks of compromised passwords while simplifying the login process.
Passwordless Login and Long Lived Sessions
Passwordless login and long-lived sessions work together to significantly improve the user experience by streamlining access to services while maintaining security. Once a user is authenticated through a passwordless method, a long-lived session can keep the user logged in over extended periods, even across different devices, without the need to re-authenticate frequently. This seamless experience reduces friction, making web navigation and service use more fluid and enjoyable. Long-lived sessions are managed carefully to balance convenience with security, often involving mechanisms like automatic session expiration after a period of inactivity or requiring re-authentication for sensitive actions.
The Future of Web Authentication
Websites that fail to integrate passwordless login and long-lived sessions will soon be as outdated as the horse and buggy carriage. In an era where user experience and security are paramount, clinging to traditional password-based authentication methods is a recipe for obsolescence. The shift towards more innovative and user-friendly authentication methods is not just a trend but a necessity in the ever-evolving digital landscape.
Smart web entrepreneurs are implementing these features as quickly as possible, leveraging services like Auth0 to make the transition simple and transparent. Auth0 and similar platforms offer robust solutions for implementing passwordless authentication seamlessly, helping businesses to enhance security, improve user satisfaction, and stay competitive in the digital age.
In conclusion, the move towards passwordless login and long-lived sessions represents a significant leap forward in making web services more accessible, secure, and user-friendly. As we continue to navigate the complexities of digital security and user experience, adopting these innovative authentication methods will be crucial for the future success of web-based software services.
The 45 RPM Record Collecting Hobby uses a grading system known as the VJM Grading System. The VJM Record Grading System is an internationally-used and recognized system for grading both 45s and LPs. It is used by virtually all jazz, blues, personality and most pre-war record dealers and collectors alike, with an easily understood sequence of letters to show grades and a system of abbreviations to show faults and damage. The first grading system to be adopted by jazz record collectors was devised by the publishers of Record Changer magazine in the 1940s, and the system now known as the VJM Grading System is a refined version of the former, introduced in the early 1950s.
Grading for beginners
Like coins, stamps, sports cards, movie posters, and everything else that people collect, these are valued according to condition. Because human beings prize things that glitter, the more like new an object is, the more collectors will pay for it. Seems simple enough, right? WRONG! Because arguing about condition actually means negotiating price, buyers and sellers often have a hard time agreeing on grade. But, fortunately, standard terms exist that everyone agrees on (what those terms mean is another story). Sadly, it takes years of looking at thousands of variations before you can truly become a knowledgeable grader. So how do you know what grade it is in if you are new at making the grade? Let me suggest that you start simple and then hone in on the final grade.
First let's look at some general terms that could be used to describe the condition of these things, then we'll cover some specialized terms that dealers and collectors use.
PERFECT
We all know what this is, something in brand new condition. A brand new record that has never been played is probably in PERFECT, like-new condition. The term for perfect condition is NEW. Although some dealers will try to convince you that 30 or 40 year old records are not graded as strictly as newer ones, I would not believe it if I were you. When it comes to PERFECT, new is new, period.
ABOVE AVERAGE
If someone bought a record, played it once or twice, and then carefully filed it away, it is in ABOVE AVERAGE condition. We refer to records in above average condition as EXCELLENT (abbreviated E or EX).
AVERAGE
The term collectors use to describe AVERAGE condition is VERY GOOD (or VG for short). Since records were meant to be played and handled, those that have been played and handled are in average condition. Minor shelf scratches, grey grooves, minor writing on the label... these are things that are typical from normal use and is both common and acceptable in a VG condition record.
BELOW AVERAGE
Records that you owned when you were six years old are probably in BELOW AVERAGE condition because you probably beat the @@#$!! out of them. And they look it! The record is still complete with heavy groove wear and probably lots of scratches from careless storage. You probably wrote your name in big black letters on the label to make sure no one else could claim your prized possession as their own. In other words, records in BELOW AVERAGE condition are ROUGH! Collectors describe records in below average condition as GOOD. Actually, there's nothing good about it other than the fact that you have a copy to keep until a better one comes along.
POOR
Better known by the technical term "crap" first coined by a dealer named Steve Geppi. A record in poor condition looks like it was rescued from the trash can of history...and probably was. You know you have handled a poor condition record when you rush to wash your hands afterwards. Poor means TERRIBLE...it may not even play!
Now that you know the five basic ranges of condition, it's much easier to focus in on exactly what the real grade is. Try it yourself. Take a stack and grade them. Is the first one just like the day you bought it except for a tiny spec on the label? Then it's not PERFECT, but you could certainly say it's ABOVE AVERAGE. Put it in the ABOVE AVERAGE stack. Does the next one in the stack look played and re-played? Put it in the AVERAGE stack. Continue sorting into basic grades. When you are done, refer to the following detailed grading descriptions. Start at the lowest grade and work your way up. Think in terms of report grades A+ to F with AVERAGE being a C, or a 10 scale from 0 to 10, with AVERAGE being a 5. The one that sounds closest to the grade of the item in hand is the actual grade.
Now let's look at the technical grading terms collectors use to describe condition. At trade shows and on eBay you will see these grades and grade-codes used to indicate grade. Memorize them, learn what they mean, and then you can start MAKING THE GRADE like a pro.
Report Card Grade: A+
VJM Grade: N : Store Stock New
10 Point Grade: On a scale of 1 to 10, it is a 10.
As new and unplayed (there are virtually no 78s that can categorically be claimed to be unplayed).
A
N-
On a scale of 1 to 10, it is a 9.
Nearly New, but has been played. No visible signs of wear or damage.
A-
E+
On a scale of 1 to 10, it is a 8.
Plays like new, with very, very few signs of handling, such as tiny scuffs from being slipped in and out of sleeves.
B+
E : Excellent
On a scale of 1 to 10, it is a 7.
Still very shiny, near new looking, with no visible signs of wear, but a few inaudible scuffs and scratches.
B
E-
On a scale of 1 to 10, it is a 6.
Still shiny but without the luster of a new record, few light scratches.
B-
V+
On a scale of 1 to 10, it is a 5.
Average used condition 45 in which scuffs and general use has dulled the finish somewhat. Wear is moderate but playing is generally free from distortion. Surface noise not overly pronounced.
C+
V : Very Good
On a scale of 1 to 10, it is a 4.
Used. Moderate, even wear throughout, but still very playable. Surface noise and scratches audible but not intrusive.
C
V-
On a scale of 1 to 10, it is a 3.
Quite playable still, but distortion and heavy greying in loud passages. Music remains loud in most passages. Surface noise and scratches well below music level.
C-
G+
On a scale of 1 to 10, it is a 2.
Grey throughout but still serviceable. Music begins to sound muffled. Heavy scratches
D
G : Good
On a scale of 1 to 10, it is a 1.
Seriously worn and scratched, but music level is still higher than surface noise.
F
G- ; F ; and P
On a scale of 1 to 10, it is a 0.
The VJM system has these designations for records in extremely poor condition. We do not place these on the 10-point scale because records in this condition have little or no value. In cases where the record is extremely rare, it would be worth the D price.
GLOSSARY OF ABBREVIATIONS
sfc = surface
lbl = label
nap = not affecting play
scr/scrs = scratch/scratches
lc or lam = lamination crack
cr = crack
gv/gvs= groove/grooves
hlc/hc = hairline crack
wol = writing on label
sol = sticker onlabel
fade = faded label
eb = edge bite
ec = edge chip
ef =edge flake
cvr = cover
s = stereo
rc= rim chip
rf = rough;
aud/inaud = audible/inaudible
lt = light
Pennies, those small copper coins often overlooked in our pockets and purses, may hold surprising value beyond their nominal worth. Many people wonder if their collection of old pennies is worth anything and who might be interested in purchasing them. Let's delve into the world of numismatics to uncover the potential value of old pennies and explore the market for these historic coins.
There are people who make a very good side hustle out of buying and selling old wheat pennies. They make dollars on the penny (LOL)! They find large lots of old pennies then turn around and sell them for a profit. How much do they get? Usually they can sell them for around $3.50 per pound. Penny dealers will buy any quantity up to 100,000 coins or 1000 pounds in weight. You should know that there are roughly 150 pennies per pound.
A wheat penny is any penny dated from 1909 to 1958. They are called "wheat pennies" because they have a sheaf of wheat on the reverse, or backside of the coin. In 1959, the sheaf of wheat was replaced with the Lincoln memorial, which is still on the reverse of our pennies today.
Wheat pennies were produced starting in 1909 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of Lincoln's birth. They were first issued on 2 August 1909 and were the first U.S. coins to feature a real person (Abraham Lincoln). As the coins began to circulate, controversy broke out over the letters V.D.B. on the coin, which were located on the bottom of the reverse side and were the initials of the penny's designer, Victor David Brenner. Many people thought that the New York sculptor’s initials did not need to be on the coin or were too prominent. Other people did not understand the meaning behind the initials or their purpose. One of the most valuable of the wheat pennies is a 1909 date with an S mint mark and the VDB initials in prominence. It is called the 1909 SVDB and can sell for as much as $1,000.00 or more in uncirculated 'like new' condition.
Wheat pennies are very common, but some rare dates are worth dollars, not pennies. However, they are rare for a reason. You could spend a lifetime searching through mountains of wheat pennies and never find a rare date. Finding a rare penny is like winning the lottery.
It is much more profitable to deal in bulk. Buy them whenever you have the chance at flea markets, yard sales, estate sales, then turn around and sell them to a reputable penny buyer for a profit.
Understanding the Value
The value of old pennies can vary significantly based on factors such as rarity, condition, and historical significance. While most pennies circulated in the United States are common and hold little numismatic value, certain rare dates, mint marks, and errors can make a penny worth considerably more to collectors.
Rare Dates and Mint Marks
Pennies minted in specific years or bearing unique mint marks are often highly sought after by collectors. For example, the 1909-S VDB Lincoln cent, featuring the initials of designer Victor David Brenner, is considered a numismatic treasure due to its low mintage and historical significance. Similarly, pennies from the early years of the United States Mint, such as the 1793 Chain cent or the 1799 "9 over 8" variety, command premium prices at auction.
Error Coins
Mistakes during the minting process can also lead to valuable error coins. Examples include double strikes, off-center strikes, and die cracks, among others. Collectors are often drawn to these unique specimens due to their rarity and the intriguing stories behind their production.
Condition Matters
In the world of coin collecting, condition is paramount. Coins in pristine, uncirculated condition are highly desirable and can command significant premiums compared to their more worn counterparts. Factors such as luster, surface preservation, and absence of blemishes play crucial roles in determining a coin's grade and, consequently, its value.
The Market for Old Pennies
Numerous avenues exist for selling old pennies, ranging from online marketplaces and auction houses to coin shops and specialized dealers. Collectors and enthusiasts actively seek out these coins to add to their collections or invest in numismatic assets.
Who Buys Old Pennies?
Coin collectors, investors, and dealers are the primary buyers of old pennies. Collectors often pursue specific date and mint mark combinations to complete sets or assemble thematic collections. Investors may view old pennies as tangible assets with potential for appreciation over time, particularly in the case of rare or historically significant specimens. Dealers, meanwhile, buy and sell old pennies as part of their numismatic business, leveraging their expertise to assess value and negotiate transactions.
Conclusion
While not every old penny is worth a fortune, many hold value beyond their face value to collectors and investors alike. By understanding the factors that contribute to a penny's worth and exploring the vibrant market for these historic coins, individuals can unlock the hidden treasures lurking within their coin collections.
With the billions of U.S. Coins in circulation, it is quite possible that a very valuable coin could come into your possession. Without realizing it, you might spend an innocent looking penny worth hundreds of dollars or even thousands of dollars. And you'd probably kick yourself for buying a candy bar with coins that later turned out to be worth a fortune. You can prevent this kind of mistake by using this website as your guide and "coin mentor."
To begin with, it's a good idea to understand the factors that make any coin valuable. These are: Scarcity, Condition and Demand. Just because a coin is old does not necessarily mean it is valuable. It's the old story of Supply and Demand. Scarcity (or rarity) is probably the most important factor in determining the value of any coin (see our price guide pages for more on this). Next important factor is Condition. Coins are available in a wide variety of states of preservation, from barely identifiable to crisp, new "uncirculated" condition. A coin, like anything else, is worth more in new condition that in worn condition. Be sure to read our article on Coin Grading. There are terms and criteria used by dealers and collectors in grading condition. The last factor in determining a coin's worth is Demand. In other words, the value of any particular premium quality coin is based upon the number of collectors who want that specific coin.
You are welcome to peruse the information of this site, in our Learning Center and our Price Guide areas. Arm yourself with information. Spend some time here learning about the hobby. Spend some time so you have a good groundwork to build from.
Sheffield Plate, a significant innovation in the world of metallurgy and decorative arts, was developed in the mid-18th century by Thomas Boulsover of Sheffield, England. This process marked a turning point in the production of silverware, offering a cost-effective alternative to solid silver items. The technique involves fusing a thin sheet of silver to one or both sides of a thick sheet of copper, combining the aesthetic appeal of silver with the durability and strength of copper. This post delves into the origins, process, and legacy of true Sheffield Plate.
The Invention and Process
The invention of Sheffield Plate in 1743 by Boulsover was somewhat accidental, yet it quickly became a sought-after method for producing silverware. The process entailed applying intense heat to bond a sheet of silver to copper. Following the fusion, the composite metal was rolled to the desired thickness, ready for fabrication into various items. This innovative method allowed for the production of silverware that was indistinguishable from solid silver to the untrained eye, yet significantly more affordable.
Distinction from Electroplate
Sheffield Plate is often referred to as "old Sheffield Plate" to differentiate it from electroplated silver, a later invention that also sought to replicate the appearance of solid silver. While both methods offer alternatives to solid silver, Sheffield Plate is notable for its method of physical fusion, as opposed to the chemical deposition used in electroplating. This distinction is crucial for collectors and enthusiasts, as it speaks to the historical and material authenticity of Sheffield Plate items.
Legacy and Significance
The legacy of Sheffield Plate extends beyond its innovative manufacturing process; it represents a pivotal moment in the democratization of luxury items. By making silverware more accessible, Sheffield Plate played a role in the broader cultural shifts towards increased accessibility to luxury goods. Today, Sheffield Plate pieces are cherished by collectors not only for their beauty but also for their historical significance, embodying the ingenuity and craftsmanship of 18th-century England. As such, Sheffield Plate remains a celebrated chapter in the history of decorative arts, symbolizing both technological advancement and social change.
Ben Hampton prints have long been admired for their detailed landscapes and nostalgic depictions of Southern life. From limited-edition lithographs to rare signed works, certain Ben Hampton prints have significantly appreciated in value. While many prints remain widely available, specific pieces hold substantial worth based on rarity, condition, and demand.
Is there a market for Ben Hampton Prints? One aspect of Hampton print collecting that many people are unaware of is the potential monetary value of certain editions. The market for Hampton prints has remained steady over the years, influenced by collector interest, print edition types, and authenticity. Limited-edition prints, signed works, and artist proofs tend to retain strong resale value, whereas mass-produced prints may not fetch high prices.
The Market For Ben Hampton Prints
The market for Ben Hampton prints remains active, with art collectors, history enthusiasts, and Southern art admirers driving demand. However, the demand for Hampton prints is weak unless they are in "Mint Condition" and come with proper documentation such as Certificates of Authenticity. Prints with fading, creases, or missing signatures typically hold little value. High-end galleries, art auctions, and online marketplaces serve as primary trading venues for valuable Ben Hampton prints.
Factors Affecting Price
Condition is crucial when determining a Ben Hampton print’s value. A print in near-mint condition with authentication documents will fetch significantly higher prices than those with damage or signs of wear. Edition and signature also play a major role—small-run limited editions, signed works, and hand-highlighted pieces are highly desirable. Provenance impacts value as well, with prints that have a direct connection to exclusive galleries or collector series attracting higher bids. Demographics influence market trends, with longtime Hampton fans and Southern art buyers seeking unique and well-preserved pieces.
Buying and Selling Ben Hampton Prints
For those interested in buying and selling Ben Hampton prints, authenticity and condition are key. Ensuring that a print retains its original colors and verifying authenticity through reputable sources is crucial, as reproductions and unauthorized copies can diminish value. Market trends fluctuate, and certain prints may increase in value over time while others remain stable. Knowledgeable collectors can find profitable opportunities through gallery sales, estate auctions, and specialty art dealers.
Who buys Ben Hampton Prints today?
Collectors, history enthusiasts, and Southern art lovers continue to drive the market for Ben Hampton prints. However, as older collectors downsize their collections, demand for specific pieces may shift. High-end buyers seek rare and pristine-condition prints, while casual buyers look for affordable yet beautiful pieces to decorate their homes. Despite changing trends, interest in Ben Hampton’s work remains strong, particularly for signed and limited-edition prints.
Not all Ben Hampton prints have monetary value, but some remain highly sought after. Examples include first-edition releases, limited-production works, and hand-embellished pieces.
Top Ben Hampton Prints to hunt for
1. Monument to an Era – Iconic Ben Hampton Signed Ltd Ed. Lithograph, valued at $3,000+ in pristine condition. 2. Standing Proud – Signed Ltd Ed. Lithograph of Southern Heritage $600+.
Learn More About The Value of your Ben Hampton Prints
iGuide’s appraisal service is a good way to discover the value of your Ben Hampton prints. Learn more.
Determining the manufacture date of a Zippo lighter is vital to determining its value. Each Zippo lighter carries distinct markings that reveal its manufacturing date. This guide will help you identify your Zippo’s age by deciphering the date codes, patent numbers, trademarks, and other features that have changed over the years.
Zippo Regular Lighter Identification Codes
1. Understanding the Basics of Zippo Date Codes
From 1933 to the mid-1950s, the word ZIPPO was stamped on the bottom of the lighter in BLOCK letters. Starting in the 1950s, Zippo began to use date codes to track production, which allows collectors to determine the manufacturing period.
Block Letter Zippo Logo
2. Early Zippos (1933–1954): Pre-Date Code Era
Zippos from 1933 to 1954 bear the patent number 2032695 stamped on the bottom, accompanied by the iconic block letter "ZIPPO" logo. Since Zippos from this era lack date codes, collectors rely on design features, hinge variations, and case details to estimate production years.
Barrel Hinges
1933-1936: Applied/attached 3-barrel hinge soldered externally to the case, an early and less durable design.
1936-1937: Applied/attached 4-barrel hinge soldered externally, offering improved lid stability over the 3-barrel version.
1937–1942: Built-in 4-barrel hinge integrated into the case, enhancing both durability and the lighter’s seamless appearance.
1943–1947: Due to wartime material shortages, Zippo shifted to a 3-barrel hinge, with the center barrel longer than the outer two.
1948-1955: After the war, the company reverted to the 4-barrel hinge before transitioning to the modern 5-barrel hinge in the early 1950s.
Rounded vs. Square Corners
1933–1937: Early Zippos had square corners, as the cases were made from rectangular metal tubing with a soldered base.
1937–1941: Around 1937, Zippo redesigned the case with rounded corners, switching to a single-sheet metal casing, eliminating the need for a soldered base.
Vertical Line Designs
Some early Zippos featured vertical lines engraved into the case.
Notably, some models have double vertical lines at two corners, while others have single vertical lines at all corners. These design variations can help narrow down production years.
Flat vs. Round Bottoms
1933–1941: Early models had either a flat bottom or a slightly rounded base.
1942–1946: Wartime "Black Crackle" models also featured flat or rounded bottoms, depending on the production run.
Post-1946: The "canned bottom" (indented base) was introduced in 1946 and became a standard feature.
Flat
Round
1942 to 1946: Black Crackle Models
When America entered World War II, materials like brass and chrome were reserved for military use. Zippo adapted by producing lighters from steel, coating them with black paint. The paint was baked, creating a distinctive textured surface known as "Black Crackle".
Key Details of Black Crackle Models:
Black Crackle lighters retained the patent number 2032695 on the bottom, but the stamp is often only visible after significant wear.
Some lighters during this period were incorrectly stamped with PAT. #203695, omitting the second "2" in error. This stamping mistake adds to their rarity.
A few models were double-stamped on both the top and bottom of the lighter, with reports of mismatched patent numbers.
3. Transition Period (1951–1957)
During this period, Zippos have a patent number of 2517191 stamped on the bottom. Between 1955 and 1957, the Zippo script logo began appearing alongside the BLOCK LETTER logo, creating an overlap. Exact dating is challenging during these years due to a gradual transition.
Zippo Logo Transition from Block to Script
4. Date Codes (1958–1986)
Starting in 1958, Zippo implemented a precise system of date codes using symbols to represent specific years:
Beginning in 1986, Zippo implemented a coding system using Roman numerals to indicate the year of manufacture, alongside a letter for the month. The letter A to L represents the month (A = January, B = February, etc.). Roman numerals are used for the year as follows:
1986 - II
1987 - III
1988 - IV
1989 - V
1990 - VI
1991 - VII
1992 - VIII
1993 - IX
1994 - X
1995 - XI
1996 - XII
1997 - XIII
1998 - XIV
1999 - XV
2000 - XVI
6. Current Date Codes (2001–Present)
Since 2001, Zippo has used a two-digit number to represent the year of manufacture, along with the same month-coding letters. For example, a lighter with “01” was made in 2001. This system continues today.
Special editions, commemorative models, or unique design features can help further identify Zippo lighters:
Patent Numbers: Early models display patent numbers correlating to specific years. For example, “2032695” was used pre-1954, while “2517191” appeared post-1951. Bottom Stamps for Special Editions: Anniversary models and event-specific Zippos often have unique stamps.
Care Tips for Collectible Zippos
To preserve your Zippo’s value, avoid polishing, store it properly, and limit fuel exposure for vintage models.
In Summary
Dating a Zippo lighter requires careful attention to detail and familiarity with changing codes. Using this guide, along with Zippo’s official resources, can help you accurately date and appreciate your collectible Zippo.
Burnishing is a critical finishing process in metalworking that enhances the durability and aesthetic appeal of electroplated articles. This technique involves the physical polishing of electro deposits, which are typically composed of numerous small crystals. These crystals, while forming a cohesive layer, leave minute intervals between them, resulting in a surface that reflects light in multiple directions. Through burnishing, the deposited metal is not only smoothed but also compacted into the pores of the underlying metal, significantly hardening the surface.
The Process and Its Impact
The primary goal of burnishing is to increase the wear resistance of the electroplated layer. By mechanically polishing the surface, burnishers effectively force the deposited metal into any existing pores, thereby eliminating surface irregularities and enhancing the bond between the electro deposit and the substrate metal. This post-deposition treatment is crucial for ensuring that the final product can withstand physical wear and tear over time.
Enhanced Durability
The impact of burnishing on electroplated articles is profound. It has been observed that burnished items, particularly those plated with precious metals like silver, exhibit a significantly longer lifespan compared to their non-burnished counterparts. In fact, with an equal amount of deposited silver, a burnished article can last twice as long as one that has not undergone this finishing process. This increased durability makes burnishing an invaluable step in the production of high-quality, electroplated items.
Conclusion
Burnishing not only improves the physical properties of electroplated articles but also contributes to their aesthetic quality by producing a smoother and more uniform surface. This enhancement in both durability and appearance underscores the importance of burnishing in the field of metalworking, ensuring that electroplated items can meet the demands of both form and function.
Strangely enough, there are only a few hundred pieces of Hummel art that are not reproductions. Some reports place the number of original sketches by Sister Hummel between five and six hundred. All others are copies or reproductions of these original creations of hers. The reproductions take many forms, such as the best known, genuine "M.I. Hummel" figurines made by the W. Goebel Co., the prints, posters, and cards made by Verlag Ars Sacra, Joseph Muller, and Emil Fink publishing companies, the dolls also made by Goebel in the likeness of some piece of original Hummel art, the transfers used on plates, candles, and eggs by Schmid, and the copies made by various firms in Japan, Korea, Taiwan, and elsewhere.
Many collectors have come to regard a reproduction as something bad, cheap, illegal, dishonest, or inferior. The American Heritage Dictionary defines "reproduce" as follows: "To produce a counterpart, a image, or copy of." There seems to be no implication of undesirability.
Certainly the first reproductions of great consequence were very desirable. The invention of movable type made possibly the first replicas in the form of the limited number of Guttenberg Bibles made in the mid-fifteenth century. The making of reproductions in the form of etchings and engravings by great artists, such as Rembrandt and Durer, was another great stride in the wider distribution of original art in either limited or unlimited editions so that masses rather than the classes could own and enjoy it.
Figurine reproductions of Hummel art accomplish the same end. By adapting Sister Hummel's works of art to a three-dimensional form by a carefully controlled molding process, creators of these "reproductions" have given millions of collectors a chance to carefully preserve all the warmth, sentiment, and the action of her original creations. In fact these reproductions are done so well many people regard them as they would an original piece of art. To support this position, even the United States Customs classifies them as "original works of art" as shown earlier in this book. Since "M.I. Hummel" figurines have taken on the status of pieces of original art themselves, they, in turn, are now being copied. Unfortunately, most of these copies are not made to the same high standards as the "M.I. Hummels" and are unlikely to ever be classed as "works of art."
The story of the figurines made by Herbert Dubler, Inc., during World War II in New York is a good example of such reproductions. They were made, according to published information, under a license from the Siessen Convent and for which royalties were set aside. Almost everyone who has seen them agrees that they do not compare favorably in execution, workmanship, or materials to those made by Goebel. This face, perhaps, could somewhat be accounted for by wartime shortages.
They are not good reproductions of original Hummel art, but neither are they fake. A "fake" implies fraud. These reproductions by Herbert Dubler, Inc., and those from Japan, Taiwan, or elsewhere are not so much "fakes" as they are inferior representations of Sister Hummel's work. Like eggs, there are good reproductions, mediocre reproductions, and "bad" reproductions. Sister Hummel's originals have been rendered in all of these degrees of quality.
Since the words "Hummel reproduction" have come to mean something made to look like the "M.I. Hummel" figurines, this seemingly widely accepted meaning has been used in this book. Many examples of such reproductions have been made in the past and are currently being made.
Figurines are not the only Hummel art that has attracted similar but not identical copies. Similar enough to attract the eye of the buyer but not dissimilar enough to deter any legal action are greeting cards, calendars, and other paper likenesses drawn in the Hummel "style and manner." For example, Henry Mainzer, Inc. produces a line of Christmas and greeting cards that on first glance appear to be photomechanical copies of original Hummel drawings. However, they contain the name of no artist and no copyright date.
As with other reproductions, some are good values while others may vary widely in quality. For example, a Mainzer 1977 calendar was seen and purchased because of its similarity to Goebel's annual Hummel calendar. Close inspection showed items to have visuals defects that would not be tolerated by any first-rate publisher. However, this example may have been an extreme exception. The prudent approach is to bypass such bargains unless you have real expertise in appraising reproductions.
However, avid knowledgeable collectors seek out reproductions for two reasons. First, because they supplement a collection of authentic articles and may even enhance it since imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. Second, these reproductions add meaningful contrast and, in some cases, may even make a separate, interesting collection. Dubler figurines are acquiring status as collectibles, although they will never be works of art in years to come.
Many collectors wonder if they same thing will happen in various forms of Hummel art. There appears to be a better-than-even chance that it could in isolated cases, but probably not "across the board." Even if most "M.I. Hummel" collectors wanted only one Herbert Dubler figurine to supplement their collections for contrast, there are so few "dublers" available that they could become worth more than comparable "M.I. Hummels" in the secondary market. The demand versus the supply will provide the answer in the future.
M.I. Hummel porcelain figurines are only one adaptation of Sister Hummel's art. Other collectible adaptations are Hummel dolls, plates, prints, pictures, postcards, calendars, books, bells, boxes, and candles.
M.I. Hummel dolls are made exclusively by the W. Goebel Company and were added to the line in 1955. W. Goebel had been making other dolls since 1871. These dolls are made with vinyl plastic. Doll collectors report that these dolls can be bought in the United States, but can be purchased for considerably less in Germany, where is seems the majority of Hummel dolls are sold.
M.I. Hummel plates entered the Goebel line in 1971 with their first limited edition annual (Christmas) plate. That same year, Schmid Brothers, Inc., of Randolph, Massachusetts, introduced a Berta Hummel Christmas plate. Since that year both companies have continued to produce commemorating plates plus at least one limited edition each year. Schmid also introduced a limited edition Mother's Day plate in 1972 and has issued one each year since.
Paper prints, pictures, and postcards adapted from Sister Hummel's original paintings actually predate the production of figurines. Josef Muller and Emil Fink, both publishers, entered into separate agreements with Sister Hummel and her convent for the rights to reproduce her works in the early thirties. Paper calendars based on Hummel are are made by W. Goebel, Emil Fink, and Josef Muller.
Three books reproducing drawings and paintings of Sister Hummel are The Hummel Book, by Hummel and Seemann, copyrighted by Emil Fink Company in 1934, The Hummel published and copyrighted by Josef Muller in 1939, and a rare, out-of-print biography by and American Franciscan nun entitled Sketch Me, publisher and date unknown.
Hummel bells, boxes, and candles for the most part are distributed by the Schmid Company using transfers or decoupages of reproductions of Sister Hummel's art. These adaptations can be identified in the same way as the reproduced Hummel Prints, by the signature of Sister Hummel found in many forms. If the picture has been cropped, the collector must learn to recognize genuine Hummel adaptations, look for the Schmid name, or trust his dealer.
There are many Hummel-like products on the market of every type and form imaginable. The principal, authorized adaptations of Sister Hummel's can be identified by checking for the facsimile signature, the company, or by learning to recognize the distinctive style of Sister Hummel's art.
Pool cues are more than just equipment for billiards; they are collectible items, precision instruments, and in some cases, valuable investments. From handcrafted cues to limited-edition models, certain pool cues hold significant value in the market. While some cues appreciate in price, others may not be as sought after depending on their condition, brand, and rarity.
Is there a market for Pool Cues? One aspect of pool cue collecting that many people are unaware of is the potential monetary value of certain cues. The market for pool cues has fluctuated over the years, influenced by brand reputation, craftsmanship, and demand among professional players and collectors. Custom cues from renowned makers like Balabushka, Southwest, and Predator tend to retain strong resale value, while mass-produced cues generally have lower appreciation.
The Market For Pool Cues
The market for pool cues is driven by collectors, professional players, and enthusiasts. However, the demand for pool cues is weak unless they are in "Mint Condition" and maintain their original structure and balance. Cues with warping, damaged tips, or refinishing may struggle to find buyers. Specialty cue retailers, auction sites, and billiards expos serve as primary trading venues for high-value cues.
Factors Affecting Price
Condition is crucial when determining a pool cue’s value. A cue in excellent condition with its original ferrule, wrap, and shaft will fetch significantly higher prices than one with wear and modifications. Brand and rarity also play key roles—custom cues from elite makers or limited-production runs often command higher prices. Materials and craftsmanship influence pricing as well, with exotic woods, ivory inlays, and precision joints adding to a cue’s desirability. Demographics also impact value, as serious players and cue collectors drive demand for quality cues.
Buying and Selling Pool Cues
For those interested in buying and selling pool cues, authenticity and condition are key. Ensuring that a cue retains its original specifications is crucial, as refinished or altered cues may lose value. Market trends fluctuate, and certain models may increase in value over time while others depreciate. Knowledgeable buyers can find profitable opportunities through billiards conventions, online marketplaces, and cue-maker direct sales.
Who buys Pool Cues today?
Collectors, competitive players, and cue enthusiasts continue to drive the market for high-end pool cues. However, as older collectors phase out, demand for certain vintage models may decrease. High-end buyers seek rare, handcrafted cues, while casual players look for affordable, functional options. Despite changing trends, the demand for well-crafted pool cues remains steady in the billiards industry.
Not all pool cues have monetary value, but some remain highly sought after. Examples include limited-production models, cues with historical significance, and those made by legendary cue makers.
Top 5 Pool Cues to hunt for
1. Balabushka Cues – Highly coveted and often selling for $10,000+ due to their craftsmanship and historical significance. 2. Southwest Cues – Custom cues known for their precision and quality, frequently valued at $5,000+. 3. Szamboti Cues – Rare cues handmade by Gus and Barry Szamboti, often reaching $15,000 or more. 4. Predator Limited Edition Cues – Popular among professional players, some limited-edition models sell for $3,000+. 5. Meucci Original Cues – Vintage Meucci cues from the 70s and 80s are highly collectible, with some fetching $2,500+.
Learn More About The Value of your Pool Cues
iGuide’s appraisal service is a good way to discover the value of your pool cues. Learn more.
Playboy magazines from the 1950s and 1960s can indeed be valuable, especially if they are in like new condition. The value of these magazines varies widely depending on factors such as rarity, condition, and specific issues. For example, the first issue of Playboy and the issue featuring Betty Page on the cover (1954) are particularly valuable. Special issues, complete collections, and autographed copies also tend to have higher value.
A Common Misconception
Some might assume that because Playboy was once a popular and provocative magazine, older issues would hold significant value today.
The Bad News
They don’t have any collector value for the most part—with the exception of the very first issue. Even in pristine, "like new" condition, modern Playboy magazines have little, if any, market value. Why? Playboy quickly became one of the best selling magazines in America. This means they are extremely common. Only the early issues from 1954 and 1955 (and of course the first issue in December 1953) have any significant value. Large lots of 1960s, 70s, and up can be purchased on eBay for less than a buck a piece.
History of Playboy
Hugh Hefner was working as a promotion copywriter at Esquire magazine in Chicago when the magazine decided to move its offices to New York. Hefner decided to stay behind and start a magazine of his own. The first issue of Playboy magazine was published in December 1953. It featured Marilyn Monroe on the cover and included a “Sweetheart of the Month” color nude photo inside. The magazine sold more than 50,000 copies
If you have any early Playboy magazines, especially from the 1950s, they could be valuable collectibles. A volume 1 #1 from 1953 in mint condition is worth many thousands of dollars. It's worth getting them appraised to determine their exact value.
The descriptions of book grades that follow are intended to outline the relative condition of books in various states of preservation. These standards are based on trade practices recommended by The American Book Association to avoid misunderstandings in the buy, selling, and advertising of books.
BOOK GRADES
Grade of a book is usually shown in the form of VG/VG, Fine/Good, VG/--, etc. The first part is the condition of the book, the second is the condition of the dust jacket. If a "--" is present, it usually means that the dustjacket is not present.
C10 New.
The finest quality available. A new book is unread, in print and in perfect condition with no missing or damaged pages.
C9 As New (AN).
To be used only when the book is in the same immaculate condition to which it was published. There can be no defects, no missing pages, no library stamps, etc., and the dustjacket (if issued) must be perfect, without any tears.
C8 Fine (F or FN).
Approaches the condition of As New, but without being crisp. For the use of the term Fine, there must also be no defects, etc., and if the jacket has a small tear, or other defect, or looks worn, this should be noted.
C7 Near Fine (NF ).
Approaches the condition of Fine, but without being quite as clean and crisp, with perhaps the slightest shelf wear. For the use of the term Near Fine, there must be no defects, etc., and if the jacket has a small tear, or other defect, or looks worn, this should be noted.
C6 Very Good + (VG+).
Describes a book that does show some small signs of wear - but no tears - on either binding or paper. Any defects must be noted.
C5 Very Good (VG).
Describes a book that does show some small signs of wear - but no tears - on either binding or paper. Any defects must be noted.
C3 Good (G).
Describes the average used worn book that has all pages or leaves present. Any defects must be noted.
C2 Fair (FR).
Worn book that has complete text pages (including those with maps or plates) but may lack endpapers, half-title, etc. (which must be noted). Binding, jacket (if any), etc., may also be worn. All defects must be noted.
C1 Poor (P).
Describes a book that is sufficiently worn, to the point that its only merit is as a Reading Copy because it does have the complete text, which must be legible. Any missing maps or plates should still be noted. This copy may be soiled, scuffed, stained or spotted and may have loose joints, hinges, pages, etc.
BOOK SIZES
4to- A book that is up to 12" tall.
8vo - A book that is up to 9 ¾" tall.
12mo - A book that is up to 7 ¾" tall.
16mo - A book that is up to 6 ¾" tall.
24mo - A book that is up to 5 ¾" tall.
32mo - A book that is up to 5" tall.
48mo - A book that is up to 4" tall.
64mo - A book that is up to 3" tall.
Folio - A book that is up to 15" tall.
Elephant Folio - A book that is up to 23" tall.
Atlas Folio - A book that is up to 25" tall.
Double Elephant Folio - A book that is up to 50" tall.
The design for the Jefferson nickel originated from a completely open competition for a $1000 prize. The winning design was submitted by Felix Schlag, a rather obscure sculptor at the time. His initials "FS" were added below the bust beginning in 1966.
There are several ways to sell your stamp collection. You can sell them online through various marketplaces, an online store, or your own website. You can also sell them offline at a stamp auction through a Private Treaty Sale, through a stamp magazine, or even at stamp shows.
Here are some places where you can sell your stamps:
Apfelbaum: Apfelbaum has been helping philatelists expand their stamp collection since 1910. It’s possible to ship your valuable stamps with free shipping directly to the merchant and receive an instant cash offer. In-person appraisals are also available for high-value portfolios. An Apfelbaum representative will travel to your location to make an evaluation. For example, the service can help you prepare for auctions or estate planning. You can start the process by providing your name, email and phone number. A representative will help you decide if mailing off your collection or a local appraisal is better. You will receive a prepaid UPS shipping label when your stamps are ready for shipment.
eBay: Consider eBay to sell a collection that may consist of many common issues or might be too small to sell through a specialized stamp-selling service. You may also be able to earn more through this platform as you are connecting with philatelists directly and can pay fewer fees. You can also sell rare stamps and make money on eBay. The most valuable single stamps sell from $6 to $10,000. The eBayfees are 13.25% for the first $7,500 in transactions and 2.35% on amounts above $7,500.
Etsy: You can successfully sell postage stamps on Etsy that are excellent matches for craft supplies or wedding invitations. There are many listings for vintage stamps that are in mint condition and are hard to find. Some sellers organize their collection by theme such as by color (blue, red, green) or theme (Christmas, historical figures, wildlife). While you most likely won’t be selling to a traditional stamp collector, you might be able to make more money on Etsy if you have an elegant collection. That’s because the new owner will be proud to display in their home decor.
American Philatelic Society: You can sell philatelic material worldwide with the APS StampStore, a hassle-free online platform that does the work for you. Follow three simple steps to submit your items, batch and ship them to the APS, and watch your sales.
West Coast Stamp Company: In order to avoid being duped by a stamp collector, consider selling to a certified stamp dealer. A stamp dealer who is registered with the American Philatelic Society will likely be more trustworthy. They must adhere to best business practices in order to hold their membership. You can also sell your collection to a stamp auction house.
Old editions of The New York Times can hold significant value, especially when they report on monumental historical events. Collectors, historians, and enthusiasts often seek out these newspapers for their historical and cultural significance. While not every old newspaper is worth money, certain factors like historical relevance, rarity, condition, and authenticity can significantly influence their value.
A Brief History of The New York Times
Founded in 1851 by Henry Jarvis Raymond and George Jones, The New York Times has become one of the most respected newspapers globally. Initially, it aimed to offer objective reporting, distinguishing itself from the sensationalist journalism of the era. Over the decades, it has chronicled pivotal moments in history, from the Civil War to the moon landing, solidifying its place as a historical record and a valuable collectible in some cases. Early editions, such as the very first issue from September 18, 1851, are particularly rare and highly sought after by collectors.
What Makes Old New York Times Newspapers Valuable?
Several factors determine the value of an old New York Times issue:
1. Historical Significance
The most valuable newspapers typically cover landmark events. For example, the April 15, 1865, issue reporting the assassination of President Abraham Lincoln is one of the most coveted. It has been appraised at around $250,000 due to its historical importance and rarity. Similarly, the July 21, 1969, issue documenting the Apollo 11 moon landing is also highly sought after. Such newspapers provide firsthand accounts of moments that changed the world, making them appealing to collectors and museums.
2. Rarity
Rarity plays a crucial role in determining a newspaper’s value. Issues from the early days of The New York Times are rare because fewer copies were printed, and even fewer have survived the passage of time. For instance, the newspaper's first edition is exceptionally valuable because of its limited availability and its status as the beginning of the publication's storied history.
3. Condition
The condition of a newspaper significantly impacts its value. Well-preserved issues with minimal discoloration, intact pages, and legible text are worth more than torn, faded, or water-damaged copies. Collectors prioritize newspapers that have been stored carefully, away from light and humidity, which can cause deterioration.
4. Authenticity
Original editions are far more valuable than reprints or commemorative editions. For example, newspapers reprinted for anniversaries or special occasions may still hold some value but are generally worth less than genuine period prints. Authenticity can be verified through paper quality, print techniques, and historical markings.
Examples of Valuable Issues
Some notable examples of valuable New York Times issues include:
-Civil War Editions: Newspapers covering major battles or President Lincoln’s assassination are highly collectible.
-Titanic Sinking (April 16, 1912): This issue reporting the Titanic disaster can sell for hundreds to thousands of dollars depending on its condition.
-World War II Events: Issues covering the D-Day invasion or the end of the war often attract collectors.
Conclusion
Old New York Times newspapers can be worth a significant amount, particularly when they report on historical events, are rare, and are in good condition. As a testament to the moments that shaped history, they serve as valuable artifacts, cherished by collectors, historians, and enthusiasts. Whether you’re holding onto a piece of family history or have stumbled upon a collection, it’s worth exploring the potential value of these historical treasures.
Pool tables have long been a centerpiece in game rooms, bars, and recreational centers, providing endless entertainment and a touch of elegance. From handcrafted antique tables to modern tournament-grade models, certain pool tables hold significant value. While some pool tables appreciate in price, others may not be as desirable depending on their condition, brand, and rarity.
Is there a market for Pool Tables? One aspect of pool table collecting that many people are unaware of is the potential monetary value of certain tables. The market for pool tables has fluctuated over the years, influenced by brand reputation, craftsmanship, and demand among players and collectors. High-end brands such as Brunswick, Olhausen, and Diamond tend to retain strong resale value, while lower-end or mass-produced tables generally depreciate.
The Market For Pool Tables
The market for pool tables is driven by collectors, professional players, and homeowners looking for a quality game room addition. However, the demand for pool tables is weak unless they are in "Mint Condition" and maintain their original slate, frame, and accessories. Tables with worn-out felt, structural damage, or missing components may struggle to find buyers. Specialty billiards retailers, estate sales, and online marketplaces serve as primary trading venues for high-value tables.
Factors Affecting Price
Condition is crucial when determining a pool table’s value. A table in excellent condition with its original slate, pockets, and frame will fetch significantly higher prices than one with wear and modifications. Brand and rarity also play key roles—high-end brands and antique tables from well-known manufacturers often command higher prices. Materials and craftsmanship influence pricing as well, with solid wood construction, precision slate, and premium felt adding to a table’s desirability. Demographics also impact value, as serious players and collectors drive demand for tournament-grade and antique tables.
Buying and Selling Pool Tables
For those interested in buying and selling pool tables, authenticity and condition are key. Ensuring that a table retains its original specifications is crucial, as refinished or altered tables may lose value. Market trends fluctuate, and certain models may increase in value over time while others depreciate. Knowledgeable buyers can find profitable opportunities through estate sales, auctions, and specialty billiards shops.
Who buys Pool Tables today?
Collectors, competitive players, and homeowners continue to drive the market for high-end pool tables. However, as older collectors phase out, demand for certain vintage models may decrease. High-end buyers seek rare, handcrafted tables, while casual players look for affordable, functional options. Despite changing trends, the demand for well-crafted pool tables remains steady in the billiards industry.
Not all pool tables have monetary value, but some remain highly sought after. Examples include antique tournament-grade tables, limited-production models, and those made by prestigious manufacturers.
Top 5 Pool Tables to hunt for
1. Brunswick Gold Crown – A tournament-grade table often valued at $5,000+ due to its professional build and quality. 2. Olhausen Custom Tables – Handcrafted designs with high-quality materials, frequently priced at $4,000+. 3. Antique Brunswick Balke-Collender Tables – Highly collectible tables from the early 1900s, often reaching $15,000 or more. 4. Diamond Professional Tables – Preferred by pro players, these tables can sell for $7,000+. 5. Gandy Big G Tables – Vintage models known for their solid craftsmanship, valued at $3,000+.
Learn More About The Value of your Pool Tables
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Wondering how much your Barbie doll is worth? You've come to the right place. An iGuide appraisal gives you the true price of your Barbie doll so you can buy or sell with confidence. Internet research is hard and confusing. But not for our experts. We do the hard work so you don't have to. Arm yourself with pricing knowledge. Become an instant expert.
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It's simple. Tell us what you have. Upload photos. Then we get to work. It takes you less than a minute to complete our form. Invest a minute of your time to gain the Barbie price knowledge of iGuide experts.
Your first appraisal is free of charge. No credit card required. No signup required. Need more appraisals? Each additional appraisal is only $5. Bulk discounts available.
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No subscription required. You can create a free account if you wish, but it's optional. You can buy appraisal credits in advance to save money, but again, it's not required. Our goal is to make it as simple and friction free as possible to price your valuables.
Help us help you
The more details you provide, the better your appraisal will be. You'll have the opportunity to give a brief description, a deep description, and shoot or upload photos.
Brief In your brief description include details such as year made (if known) product number (if known) series name (example: Happy Holidays) description in original box or not Also any text or markings should be described.
Full Description Here's where you go into the full story. Describe the condition of your Barbie doll, whether it is like new or used. Describe the size, height, condition, etc. Tell us what you know about the item...age, where obtained, is it part of a larger collection or a single item? You're not limited by the size of the input box, it expands as you type. So tell us all you know about your Barbie Doll.
While your brief and full descriptions are vital, photos are crucial. Be sure to include at least one photo of each side of your Barbie doll and its box and closeups of product numbers or copyright text.
Good, well lit, clearly-focused photos improve your Barbie doll appraisal result and help us have a better idea of what you have. Do a good job so we can do a good job. The old saying "garbage in, garbage out" applies here.
Thomas Kinkade prints have remained a popular choice among art collectors and enthusiasts for their warm, inviting scenes and masterful use of light. From limited-edition prints to rare signed works, certain Thomas Kinkade prints have significantly appreciated in value. While many prints remain widely available, specific pieces hold substantial worth based on rarity, condition, and demand.
Is there a market for Thomas Kinkade Prints? One aspect of Kinkade print collecting that many people are unaware of is the potential monetary value of certain editions. The market for Kinkade prints has remained steady over the years, influenced by collector interest, print edition types, and authenticity. Limited-edition prints, artist proofs, and hand-highlighted works tend to retain strong resale value, whereas mass-produced prints may not fetch high prices.
The Market For Thomas Kinkade Prints
The market for Thomas Kinkade prints remains active, with art collectors, home decorators, and Kinkade enthusiasts driving demand. However, the demand for Kinkade prints is weak unless they are in "Mint Condition" and come with proper documentation such as Certificates of Authenticity. Prints with fading, creases, or missing signatures typically hold little value. High-end galleries, art auctions, and online marketplaces serve as primary trading venues for valuable Thomas Kinkade prints.
Factors Affecting Price
Condition is crucial when determining a Thomas Kinkade print’s value. A print in near-mint condition with authentication documents will fetch significantly higher prices than those with damage or signs of wear. Edition and signature also play a major role—small-run limited editions, signed works, and hand-highlighted pieces are highly desirable. Provenance impacts value as well, with prints that have a direct connection to exclusive galleries or collector series attracting higher bids. Demographics influence market trends, with longtime Kinkade fans and contemporary art buyers seeking unique and well-preserved pieces.
Buying and Selling Thomas Kinkade Prints
For those interested in buying and selling Thomas Kinkade prints, authenticity and condition are key. Ensuring that a print retains its original colors and verifying authenticity through reputable sources is crucial, as reproductions and unauthorized copies can diminish value. Market trends fluctuate, and certain prints may increase in value over time while others remain stable. Knowledgeable collectors can find profitable opportunities through gallery sales, estate auctions, and specialty art dealers.
Who buys Thomas Kinkade Prints today?
Collectors, home decorators, and art enthusiasts continue to drive the market for Thomas Kinkade prints. However, as older collectors downsize their collections, demand for specific pieces may shift. High-end buyers seek rare and pristine-condition prints, while casual buyers look for affordable yet beautiful pieces to decorate their homes. Despite changing trends, interest in Thomas Kinkade’s work remains strong, particularly for signed and limited-edition prints.
Not all Thomas Kinkade prints have monetary value, but some remain highly sought after. Examples include first-edition releases, limited-production works, and hand-embellished pieces.
Top 5 Thomas Kinkade Prints to hunt for
1. The Garden of Prayer – One of Kinkade’s most cherished prints, valued at $5,000+ in pristine condition. 2. The Lights of Liberty – A patriotic-themed limited-edition print often selling for $3,000+. 3. Hometown Evening – A classic Americana scene, with some editions valued at $4,000+. 4. The Disney Dreams Collection – Popular among Disney fans, some prints reaching $10,000+. 5. San Francisco, Market Street – A sought-after cityscape print often selling for $2,500+.
Learn More About The Value of your Thomas Kinkade Prints
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Star Wars material is among the most difficult to authenticate in the movie poster hobby. Everyone seems to have an opinion. I'll maintain this page as a guide (by no means comprehensive) to Star Wars poster authentication.
1977 Stars Wars One Sheet Style A
I've owned quite a few of the style A one-sheets over the years — ones that came directly from theaters, so I know they were authentic.
You may not be aware of it, but there are authorized reprints of this poster.
Much weight has been given to the dimensions of the posters, the distances of the blue
border from the inner image, and the exact width of each of the four borders. I no longer can agree
that any of this is set in stone. I've seen two copies of the poster, in my hands; from two
different theaters, and in both cases the posters were not disturbed from their release in 1977. I
personally removed them from the theaters, so there was no opportunity for anyone to slip me a fake.
In both cases, the owners had no interest in their posters, which had been sitting for years, and I
have no doubt whatsoever that both copies were authentic. Yet the left and right borders
varied by 1/16 of an inch on both, and the top and bottom border measurements did not match either.
I've stopped paying attention to the 1/16 of an inch differences. I am told that the measurement
differences of 1/8 or higher are significant.
At the moment, I have a Star Wars A that I
just picked up in a theater in Kentucky, in the midst of thousands of posters and again, I know for
a fact that it's an original (the gentleman had not disturbed it for years). It can be argued that
the white border of the LEFT of this poster is exactly one inch on the top, and may be closer to 1
1/16 inch on bottom and exactly the reverse is true of the RIGHT border. I know this was not the
case with the other two originals I had. Keep in mind there was a first printing, and then many
other original year printings done in different NSS locations in the country. Not every Star Wars
poster definitively came off the same machine, the same day. If there were other printings that
year, in other locations, it is very likely that the borders would be off from one another, in this
small way. So, bottom line: I've learned from many discussions with others who own the style A, and
my own ownership at various times of guaranteed authentic copies that one cannot necessarily rely on
the borders within 1/16 of an inch. Most of the fakes I've seen that DON'T have the 77/21-O or 21-1
indication on the bottom have borders off by more than 1/16.
There are lots of forgeries of the style A's and C's. If you see rolled ones for less than $175 you are most likely wasting your
money on a fake. Most experts say if it's rolled don't buy it. Collectors report forgeries of Star
Wars style A and C with 77/21 and 77/21-0 as well as 77/21-1. Some people say that only the ones
with a NSS of 77/21-0 are fake. Not True! I'll tell you this, I have bought several SW style A’s,
and I have yet to get a real rolled one. I have bought folded examples, which are good. I personally
won't buy them anymore unless I can get them from a theater.
1977 Star Wars Original Mylar One Sheet First Advance First version.
This poster was the first THEATER poster produced for
Star Wars. The image does not do it justice. The letters and border are Mylar, in other words they
appear as a mirror image (hence very difficult to photograph). These posters were shipped flat to
theaters in wooden boxes. The flat shipping was done because if these posters are rolled tighter
than about 4" diameter they will tend to separate or "delaminate". In other words, the Mylar will
separate from the paper backing. Sadly this has been the fate of most of these posters. The Star
Wars logo is not the standardized logo that was later adopted.
Star Wars First Advance Second version
The First advance second version is on card stock.
Star Wars Advance Style B
Watch out for is the SW Teaser "B". If it is priced "cheap" it
is probably fake. I have bought 5 rolled ones in the last couple of months and they were all forgeries. What
I do know is that the most common forgery of the "B" teaser is that it is missing the union label
(it is a small oval). It should be in the bottom border. All of the ones I have seen are fake. I
have not seen a real one. I've also been told that some of the letters are not as sharp as they
should be.
The B Teaser fakes look pretty bad and are fairly easy to spot because the lettering is
so soft looking and the color is off.
Star Wars Style A Poster
This was the poster that accompanied Star Wars on its first release. The art is by Tom Jung. This art was only
used on the theater posters (which were also used for advertising merchandise). Many people will say
"but I had that on a T-shirt." Artwork used on other products was similar but created by the
Hildebrandt brothers (of comic book fame).
About the "A" style: The fake I have with the 77/21-0
is a heavier and glossier paper than the real folded one. The artwork is also almost a full 1/4"
smaller. The paper is obvious when you put them side-by-side. Also, the real one is a little darker
brown in the bottom left corner of the art. I have seen it written that there were print runs with
both the 77/21-0 and 77/21 without the "Star Wars" written under the number but the fake I have does
not have it. The union logo on the fake is much larger then the real one. It is 1/4" across on the
fake and just a bit over 1/8" on the real. The rolled one I have, I now think, is real. It's almost
a perfect match with the folded one. It is definitely a different print run however since it does
not say "Star Wars" under the 77/21.
The hairline: a definite sign that many fakes have is a
dust line just below Luke's belt where a hair got on the negative. If your poster has this hairline
it is a fake.
It can get discouraging. I recently had one "expert" tell me that the only
fakes of the "A" have the 77/21-0 or 77/21-1. The next day I got an email from a poster consultant
who said that there are fakes of the poster with the 77/21. They also said that they have NEVER seen
a real rolled "A".
Here is how I (CURRENTLY) would describe an original Star Wars Style A
poster: The art from outer border to outer border is 24 15/16" - 25 inches. - One white border on
the left is exactly 1 inch. The white border on right is exactly 1 inch, or only 1/16" inch larger
or smaller than 1 inch. Very slight indent for the word COPYRIGHT on the very bottom of poster
(about 1/8 inch). The sign for copyright (c with circle) below the image but above the credits is,
if you measure to the dead CENTER of the circle, 1/2 inch from the outside blue border, 3/8 inch
from the inside of blue border, and 1/4 inch from BROWN edge of art. The Graphic arts international
logo and Litho in USA are closer to the bottom edge of the poster than the lower blue border. In
other words, they aren't exactly in the center of the lower white border. The GAI logo lies a bit
above the litho in USA words. The 77/21 is flush with the outer blue border. It can have two types
of type used. I know this because of the one I got out of a Canadian theater. It can have the
elongated numeric font used by NSS, which measures 1/4 inch high, or it can have the slightly
shorter, thicker font. The words Star Wars appear below the 77/21. Again, I know for a fact that the
originals do have Star Wars written under the 77/21 (or at least all that I've ever seen). And
again, I don't know what to say about rolled ones. I have yet to see an authentic rolled Style A,
though they may exist.
The style A's were printed by National Screen Service. Up until the
early 80's, they handled the printing and distribution of movie posters for all the major studios.
They tended to get a little funny with the codes that were printed in the corners of the posters.
Every time they went back and printed the A's, they would change the code. It was probably an
inventory thing.
About seven years ago, a company (whose name now escapes me) reprinted
thousands of Star Wars A's, C's and B teasers. The A's are extremely difficult to spot and dealers
have been selling them as original ever since they showed up. The reprinted ones have the
designation "77/21-0" at the bottom. That doesn't mean that all of the posters with the other
designation are fakes, there are at least four different printing codes on the original A's, but the
rolled ones with the "-0" are all suspect now.
Star Wars Style C Poster
The C's are not quite as difficult to spot, but they still look pretty good and I'm sure a lot of people
have been ripped off. The only good way to know if it has been reprinted is to look at the dot
pattern of the color separation with a 30-power magnifying lens. If most of the dots are perfectly
round, then it is an original. If most of the dots look broken or moon shaped, then it has been
"re-separated" from an original printing and is a fake.
Star Wars Style D Poster
This poster was issued in 1978 after Star Wars had been in the theaters for a
while. The art is by Drew Struzan and Charles White III. The SW style "D" fan club reprints
have a dot matrix serial number on them. The rolled one I have has the union label going into the
credit portion of the poster somewhat.
Star Wars Birthday Poster
This poster was issued in 1978 to those theaters that had played Star Wars for 1 year continuously. Probably
fewer than 500 of these posters were ever printed. It is now one of the most sought-after Star Wars
posters.
Revenge Of The Jedi
Be careful with the Revenge posters. I will no longer buy this poster with the release date since most being sold today are forgeries. The
forgeries are folded in many cases. The same poster without the date has no known forgeries. On the Revenge, the fakes I have seen have blurry 20th Century Fox logos. The one I have now actually has
the blue color of the logo in the bottom right corner.
On the ROTJ Style A: I was told that
the top horizontal light bar coming off of the saber has color in it. It does in all of mine. The
copy I'm told is a white line. I am also told that on the same forgery there is a curved hairline,
almost as if a piece of dust got on the negative — you can easily see about 2 centimeters to
the right of the moon in the bottom left of the art. I did notice that one of my rolled ones was
darker in the area to the left side of the saber. This was the one I suspected might be fake.
I get about two or three offers a month to buy REVENGE of the Jedi One-sheets. Those are the
worst. I have a standard email reply to those, I just can't afford the mistake. Beware on the
Revenge with the date. There are many forgeries of this poster out there. In particular look for a
hairline of red above the yellow line.
QUICK RULES OF THUMB
1. Star Wars Style "A" - Copyright at left bottom is flush with artwork on the fakes. Should be indented slightly (a
little less then 1/8th"). Also, look for a hairline on Luke’s belt. If you see a hairline, it is a
fake.
2. Star Wars Style "A" - Artwork is slightly smaller on fake.
3. Star Wars Style "C" - Hard to tell. The faces of the characters are yellowish on the fakes rather than
orange-brown.
4. Star Wars Style "D" - The fake has a dot matrix serial number on the bottom
border.
5. Star Wars Advance Style "B" - Smearing around some of the edges of the letters on
the fake. Also, the fake is missing the union label left of center on the bottom is
missing.
6. Revenge of the Jedi Advance (The one with the opening date) Blurred 20th Century
Fox Logo on fake also you can see the fold lines from the original the fake was copied from. Look
for a hairline of red between the yellow stripe and black background. I have also heard that there
are no known rolled copies of this poster.
One aspect of Hummel figurines most people are not aware of is the declining market values. Once a beloved hobby that captivated millions worldwide, Hummel figurine collecting has seen a significant downturn. The heyday of this unique form of art and collectible saw enthusiasts eagerly hunting for rare pieces, driving prices to impressive heights. However, as interests shift and the collector base ages, the market for Hummel figurines has experienced a notable decline, affecting their overall prices.
Market Dynamics
The market dynamics of Hummel figurine collecting are influenced by a complex interplay of economic considerations. The decline in demand, coupled with an oversupply of common pieces, has led to decreased prices. Yet, the market remains vibrant for rare and unique Hummel figurines, which continue to attract high bids at auctions and from private collectors. Understanding these dynamics is crucial for both buyers and sellers to navigate the market effectively.
Factors Influencing Value
Several factors determine the price and collectibility of Hummel figurines, including:
Grade: The condition of the figurine plays a significant role in its value.
Rarity: Limited edition and hard-to-find pieces command higher prices.
Demand: Figurines that are highly sought after by collectors are more valuable.
Provenance: A well-documented history can increase a figurine's desirability.
Risks and Rewards
Trading in Hummel figurines, like any collectible, presents both risks and rewards. While the potential for significant returns exists, particularly with rare items, market fluctuations can also lead to losses. Collectors must weigh the sentimental value of their collections against the financial investment and market trends.
Does anybody buy Hummel figurines today?
The market for Hummel figurines has contracted, partly due to the aging of primary dealers and collectors. However, there remains a niche community of enthusiasts who appreciate the artistry and history of these pieces. Finding buyers may be challenging, but not impossible, especially for well-preserved, rare models.
It's important for investors to remember that not all Hummel figurines are considered "trash"; some remain in high demand, such as those from the Century Collection. These pieces continue to be sought after by collectors and can fetch considerable sums.
Learn More About Hummel Figurine Prices
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William B. Durgin started his company in Concord, New Hampshire in 1853, and it grew to become one of the largest flatware and hollowware manufacturers in the U.S. Gorham Co. purchased the firm in 1905, and production was moved to Providence, Rhode Island in 1931. Some pattern names are: Bead, Chatham, Chrysanthemum, Cromwell, Dauphin, English Rose, Essex, Fairfax, hunt Club Iris, Lenox, Louis XV, Madame Royale, Marechal Niel, New Vintage, Orange Blossom, Sheaf of Wheat, Victorian/Sheraton, and Watteau.
Salvador Dali prints have long been admired in the art world for their surrealism, intricate details, and historical significance. From limited-edition lithographs to rare artist proofs, certain Salvador Dali prints have significantly appreciated in value. While many Dali prints remain widely available, only specific pieces hold substantial worth based on rarity, condition, and demand.
Is there a market for Salvador Dali Prints? One aspect of Dali print collecting that many people are unaware of is the potential monetary value of certain editions. The market for Dali prints has remained strong over the years, influenced by collector demand, authenticity verification, and auction results. Limited-edition prints, signed works, and rare early productions tend to retain strong resale value, whereas unauthorized reproductions may not fetch high prices.
The Market For Salvador Dali Prints
The market for Salvador Dali prints remains strong, with art collectors, museums, and surrealism enthusiasts driving demand. However, the demand for Dali prints is weak unless they are in "Mint Condition" and come with proper documentation such as Certificates of Authenticity. Prints with fading, creases, or unauthorized reproductions typically hold little value. High-end galleries, art auctions, and online marketplaces serve as primary trading venues for valuable Salvador Dali prints.
Factors Affecting Price
Condition is crucial when determining a Salvador Dali print’s value. A print in near-mint condition with authentication documents will fetch significantly higher prices than those with damage or signs of wear. Rarity and edition also play a major role—small-run limited editions, artist proofs, and signed works are highly desirable. Provenance impacts value as well, with prints that have a direct link to Dali’s personal collection or reputable galleries attracting higher bids. Demographics influence market trends, with longtime Dali admirers and contemporary art investors seeking unique and well-preserved pieces.
Buying and Selling Salvador Dali Prints
For those interested in buying and selling Salvador Dali prints, authenticity and condition are key. Ensuring that a print retains its original colors and verifying authenticity through reputable sources is crucial, as reproductions and unauthorized copies can diminish value. Market trends fluctuate, and certain prints may increase in value over time while others remain stable. Knowledgeable collectors can find profitable opportunities through gallery sales, art fairs, and major auction houses.
Who buys Salvador Dali Prints today?
Collectors, modern art investors, and surrealism enthusiasts continue to drive the market for Salvador Dali prints. However, as older collectors downsize their collections, demand for specific pieces may shift. High-end buyers seek rare and pristine-condition prints, while emerging art collectors look for accessible yet valuable pieces. Despite changing trends, interest in Salvador Dali’s work remains strong, particularly for historically significant and rare editions.
Not all Salvador Dali prints have monetary value, but some remain highly sought after. Examples include early signed prints, limited-edition works, and pieces from Dali’s most famous series.
Top 5 Salvador Dali Prints to hunt for
1. Divine Comedy Series (1951-1960) – A highly collectible series valued at $20,000+. 2. The Persistence of Memory (Limited Edition) – One of Dali’s most famous works, often selling for $50,000+. 3. Biblia Sacra (1967) – A religious-themed collection with some prints valued at $30,000+. 4. Don Quixote (1957) – A rare series highly prized by collectors, with prices exceeding $25,000. 5. Surrealist Bullfight (1969) – A sought-after lithograph, often selling for $15,000+.
Learn More About The Value of your Salvador Dali Prints
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The descriptions of coin grades that follow are intended to outline the relative condition of coins in various states of preservation. These standards are based on trade practices recommended by The American Numismatic Association to avoid misunderstandings in the buying, selling, and advertising of coins.
When a coin in circulation starts to show signs of wear, only the highest parts of the design are affected. You will note that the highest points of the design become slightly rounded or flattened --- and that very fine details begin to merge together or fade away.
After a coin has been in circulation for a longer time, the entire design and surface will show obvious signs of wear. Most of the high points will lose their sharpness and the original luster will begin to fade. Further circulation will flatten out the sharpness and relief of the entire design. The high points will all begin to merge with the next lower parts of the coin's design.
UNCIRCULATED COIN GRADES
The term UNCIRCULATED, also referred to as MINT STATE, refers to a coin which has never been in circulation. It is UNUSED. Such a coin has no signs of wear from usage whatsoever.
Uncirculated coins can be divided into four major categories:
PERFECT UNCIRCULATED (MS-70). — The finest quality available. Such a coin under 4X magnification will show NO bag marks, lines, clouding, or other evidence of handling or contact with other coins.
GEM UNCIRCULATED (MS-65). — An above average uncirculated coin which may be brilliant or highly toned and has very few bag contact marks or perhaps one or two very light rim marks.
CHOICE UNCIRCULATED (MS-63). — Has some distracting contact marks or blemishes in prime focal areas. Luster may be impaired.
UNCIRCULATED (MS-60). — Refers to a coin which has a moderate number of bag marks on its surface. A few minor edge nicks may be present, although they must not be of a serious nature. Surface may be spotted or lack some luster.
CIRCULATED COIN GRADES
Circulated coins are USED. They have been in circulation, meaning they have been handled, pocketed, and carried, sometimes for decades. As a result, they are worn to one degree or another. Coin collectors have established the following grades for rating just how used a coin actually is:
CHOICE ABOUT UNCIRCULATED-55 (AU-55). Only a small trace of wear is visible on the highest points of the coin. As in the case with other grades here, specific information is listed in the Official ANA Grading Guide under the various types, for wear often occurs in different spots on different designs.
ABOUT UNCIRCULATED-50 (AU-50). Only a small trace of wear is visible on the highest points of the coin. As in the case with other grades here, specific in format.
Choice About Uncirculated-55 (AU-55). With traces of wear on nearly all of the highest areas. At least half of the original mint luster is present.
CHOICE EXTREMELY FINE-45 (EF-45 or XF-45). With light overall wear on the coin's highest points. All design details are very sharp. Mint luster is usually seen only in protected areas of the coin's surface such as between star points and in the letter spaces.
EXTREMELY FINE-40 (EF-40 or XF-40). With only light wear but more extensive than the preceding, still with excellent overall sharpness. Traces of mint luster may still show.
CHOICE VERY FINE-30 (VF-30). With light even wear over the surfaces; design details on the highest points lightly worn, but with all lettering and major features sharp.
VERY FINE-20 (VF-20). As preceding but with moderate edge wear on highest parts.
FINE-12 (F-12). Moderate to considerable even wear. Entire design is bold. All lettering, including the word LIBERTY (on coins with this feature on the shield or head band) visible, but with some weaknesses.
VERY GOOD-8 (VG-8). Well worn. Most fine details such as hair strands, leaf details, and so on are worn nearly smooth. The word LIBERTY if on a shield or headband is only partially visible.
GOOD-4 (G-4). Heavily worn. Major designs visible, but with faintness in areas. Head of liberty, wreath, and other major features visible in outline form without center detail.
ABOUT GOOD-3 (AG-3). Extremely heavily worn with portions of the lettering, date and legends being worn smooth, the date barely readable.
Obviously, the better the state of preservation any collectible enjoys, the more it is worth. Our Franklin Mint Grading Guide is intended to give collectors some guidelines to help determine the grade, or condition, of their collectible. I welcome your feedback. Please e-mail me with comments and suggestions. My e-mail address is jon@2ndmarkets.com.
Grading is an art, not a science. It can take years of experience to learn how to accurately rate the condition of an item. Hopefully this guide will start you on your path. C10 = Like New As new (pre-1980 items are seldom found in this condition).C9 : N- Nearly New, but has very slight signs of age. No visible signs of wear or damage.
C8 = E+
Almost like new, with very, very few signs of handling, such as tiny scuffs from being slipped in and out of holders, noticeable only with a magnifying glass.
C7 = E : Excellent
Still very shiny, near new looking, with no visible signs of wear, but a few slight blemishes may be present. C6 = E-
Still shiny but without the luster of a the above grade, may have a few light scratches or possibly signs of tarnishing. C5 = VG+ V+ is an average condition collectible in which scuffs and general use has dulled the finish somewhat. Wear is moderate but eye appeal is generally very good. Surface not worn but not lustrous either. C4 = VG : Very Good Moderate, even wear throughout, but still very playable. Surface noise and scratches audible but not intrusive.C3 = VG- Surface scratches and general wear are obvious. C2 = G+ Heavy scratches. C1 = G : Good Quite seriously worn and scratched. G- ; F ; and P
Some experts also use these designations for collectibles in extremely poor condition. We do not place these on the 10-point scale because Franklin Mint collectibles in this condition have little or no value. In cases where the item is extremely rare, it would be worth the C1 price in our price guide.
Theater movie posters are promotional materials created to promote films in theaters, showcasing stunning artwork, dramatic taglines, and key details about the movie. When we talk about collecting movie posters we mean the posters used by the theaters, not mass market versions sold in big box stores. They’ve been a part of cinema history since the early 1900s, evolving from simple advertisements into collectible art pieces. From the silent film era to blockbuster hits, movie posters often captured the essence of their time and have since become cherished items for both film buffs and art lovers.
Collecting movie posters is still a popular hobby, especially for fans of vintage cinema or specific franchises. While the market for common posters has cooled over the years, rare and unique pieces can still fetch impressive prices. For many, these posters are more than just memorabilia—they’re a piece of cinematic history.
The Market For Movie Posters
Is there a market for movie posters? Yes, but it’s a selective one. The economic history of movie posters has seen its share of highs and lows. During the mid-20th century, studios saw posters as disposable, which made surviving examples rare and valuable today. The market boomed in the late 20th century as collectors began recognizing their artistic and historical significance.
Today, while demand for more common posters has stabilized, rare pieces—especially original posters for iconic films—continue to command high prices. Auctions, online marketplaces, and private sales play a key role in keeping the market alive.
Factors Affecting Price
Condition: Posters in excellent condition with minimal wear are significantly more valuable.
Rarity: Limited-run posters, particularly those from smaller films or foreign markets, often fetch higher prices.
Demand: Posters for cult classics, major franchises, or films with a devoted fanbase tend to attract the most interest.
Provenance: The poster’s history, such as its origin or association with notable events, can increase its value.
Buying and Selling Movie Posters
Buying and selling movie posters can be a thrilling venture. The rewards include uncovering hidden gems and connecting with a vibrant community of collectors. However, risks include encountering reproductions or overestimating a poster’s value. To succeed, you’ll need a keen eye for authenticity, an understanding of market trends, and patience to find the right buyers.
Who Buys Movie Posters Today?
Collectors, film enthusiasts, and art lovers are the primary buyers of movie posters. Dealers specializing in cinematic memorabilia also play a significant role in the market. However, as some long-time dealers retire or shift focus, the market faces challenges that may impact prices. Despite this, passionate collectors ensure the trade remains active for rare and desirable items.
Top 5 Movie Posters to Hunt For
1. “Metropolis” (1927): One of the rarest and most iconic posters in film history. Value: $1–$2 million.
2. “Dracula” (1931): This horror classic’s original poster is highly sought after. Value: $500,000–$1 million.
3. “Star Wars” (1977) - Original Style A: The first-run posters for the sci-fi phenomenon. Value: $5,000–$10,000.
4. “Casablanca” (1942): A timeless poster for a beloved romantic drama. Value: $50,000–$100,000.
5. “The Dark Knight” (2008) - Limited IMAX Edition: A modern collectible with a strong fanbase. Value: $2,000–$5,000.
Learn More About The Value of Your Movie Posters
iGuide’s appraisal service is a good way to discover the value of your movie posters. Learn more.
Because the subject of Goebel trademarks used on M.I. Hummel figurines can be either simple or complex, let's consider it that way.
Let's deal with it in two parts, which we'll call the short course and the long course
But we'll preface both parts by repeating, again, that it's difficult to use this or any other price guide on Hummel Figurines without a rudimentary knowledge of the trademarks (TM's) and how to identify them on a figurine.
Outside of condition, trademarks are the most important factor in determining values and prices on M.I. Hummel figurines. A figurine such as Cinderella(mold 337) may be worth up to six times more in TM4 (trademark 4) than it is in TM7, for instance.
If you have acquired an older Cinderella, this information won't help you unless you know how to identify which trademark was used on your figurine.
Many people seem to be intimidated by having to learn the "Hummel marks."
Don't be one of them. It's really rather simple, and, if you don't already know the system, we're here to explain it.
The Short Course
While Goebel has used numerous different marks to stamp its factory "brand" on M.I. Hummel figurines, these have been consolidated by common usage into seven distinctive TM eras, beginning with the very first Hummel figurines in 1935 and ending with the figurines leaving the factory in Germany as you read this.
These TM eras are what you will find referenced repeatedly in this book as TM1, TM2, TM3, TM4, TM5, TM6 and TM7.
If a figurine you are examining has a back stamp under the base matching one of these trademark designs, you should have no trouble identifying the TM era in which it was produced.
If we do a skin-deep examination of the TM eras, here's what we'll find.
TM1. This is the so-called crown mark era which identifies the earliest (and usually most valuable) Hummel figurines. The crown itself had been part of the company's trademark for decades, and the WG entwined initials honored William Goebel, a founder of the company.
The era extends from the beginning of production in 1935 through the World War II years to 1950, but...
In the 1946 - 1948 period after WWII, Hummel figurines were commonly marked simply with some sort of U.S. Zone mark, a postwar mark used to identify the items as coming from the U.S.-controlled region of divided Germany.
These U.S. Zone marked figurines, coming as they did within the crown era, are valued and priced as TM1 pieces.
TM2. In 1950, Goebel officially adopted its now-famous full bee mark in honor of Sister Maria Innocentia Hummel, who had died four years previously.
The bumblebee in the mark represents Sister Hummel, Hummel being the German word for bumblebee. The V in which the bee flies stands for Verkaufsgesellschaft, or distribution company.
The TM2 era extends through 1959. Through 1955, the bee is quite large in relation to the V and is easily identified. From 1956 through 1959, it was diminished in size, and its placement in relation to the V was changed several times.
Common to all TM2 era pieces, however, is a bumblebee that looks like a bee. That is contrary to...
TM3. The so-called stylized bee era begins about 1957 and ends officially in 1972. The bee now can be identified simply as a round dot with wings.
Though the trademark wasn't officially put aside until 1972, it wasn't used as often after 1964 as the concurrently running...
TM4. This is the so-called three-line mark - always easily identified on a figurine by the use of the stylized bee inside V mark in combination with three short lines of text to the right of the V as you view it.
The TM4 era officially extends from 1964 to 1972. The three lines mark is said to be the prevalent mark in the years its use overlapped that of the stylized bee.
In 1972, it gave way to...
TM5. This is sometimes called the last bee mark and at other times the Goebel bee mark. It was officially used from 1972 until 1979. It was adopted to help identify Goebel as the producer of the M.I. Hummel figurines, for the figurines had developed such a strong identity that many did not associate them with a maker.
This trademark varied little in the era in which it was used and can be easily identified by the word positioned above the letters be, and by the small text W.Germany centered beneath.
It represented the last use of the bee in any form, because in 1979 Goebel adopted...
TM6. In use from 1979 through 1990, this mark incorporates the text Goebel with its now-familiar registration symbol and, again, the small text W.Germany centered beneath.
The purpose for the dropping the bee with V altogether hasn't been detailed, but I think it probably had to do with Goebel's desire to strongly promote other products it produced. By closely identifying Goebel with Hummel, it could be argued, the immense popularity of Hummel could be conveyed through the Goebel name to other Goebel-made figurines.
The change also came at a period that may have been the heyday in Hummel/Goebel popularity. In the late 1970s and early 1980s, retailers were fighting over available product, as the company could not produce enough to meet demand.
In 1989, the Berlin Wall fell and West Germany subsequently became Germany again. The small line of text in the trademark needed to be altered, so why not just create...
TM7. For a combination of nostalgic and promotional reasons, Goebel in 1991 resurrected the Crown with WG initials mark, but incorporated it as the bottom tier in a three-tiered trademark topped by the large word Goebel, under which is the smaller word Germany to indicate country of origin.
This mark is found on figurines of contemporary production and is quite easy to identify.
The Long Course
Now, if the short course sounds a bit too simple to be true - if you think there might be a bit more to this trademark thing - you're right on. Here, we'll reexamine the TM eras to see how they relate to figurine values.
Warning: we'll deal somewhat in suppositions, so if you feel like you've been saturated with all the trademark data you can handle, it's time to tune out.
TM1
The crown era, as we have seen, begins with the first production of Hummel in 1935 and continues all the way through the decade of the 1940s.
It is documented that the earliest pieces were nearly always marked with what is called the wide crown WG mark in its incised form. (The WG initials in the company of a copyright symbol can also sometimes be found on the side or top of the base of a model.)
The incised mark is usually colorless
Soon thereafter - but we don't know exactly when - the company also began applying the mark with the use of a print under glaze (PUG) decal, commonly referred to as the stamped crown mark.
This printed or stamped crown mark will normally be either blue or black. (There is a very limited range of mineral colors which will print under glaze.)
Not infrequently, Hummel figurines will be found marked both with the incised and the stamped wide crown WG mark. These examples are referred to as "double crown" figurines. They are highly prized by advanced collectors and usually command a modest premium in price.
From 1937 to 1945, the wide ducal crown with Goebel mark (also called the narrow crown mark) became prominent for a while on certain Goebel products. However, the products did not normally include figurines, and the mark is thought to be rare to nonexistent on Hummel figurines.
Before advancing beyond the World War II years, there are factors which should be considered. They help explain why early crown-marked Hummels in good condition are so rare and valuable today.
We can start with the supposition that, in the 1930s, Hummel figurines were not produced in anything resembling the abundance of later generations.
Produced by a major manufacturer and of obvious appeal, the figurines were no doubt well received. However, the prewar 1930s period was not one of voluminous export from Germany to the U.S., where the M.I. Hummel figurines would later find their greatest market.
Moreover, it can be assumed that production was abated in almost direct proportion to Germany's military buildup of the late 1930s. This may be reflected somewhat in the history of the molds themselves.
A quick, rough count shows some 33 new models were credited to the year 1938. In 1939, this figure is 17. In 1940, it is nine.
In 1941, it is six, two of which were never produced. In 1942, it is three. In 1943, it is 11, eight of which were never produced.
In 1944, a single mold was produced, and it wasn't until 1948 that such production again hit double figures.
Figurines produced by Goebel during the World War II years bore the crown mark, but it's very unlikely they were produced in any abundance.
The point is that M.I. Hummel figurines made between 1935 and 1946 - never plentiful by today's standards - needed to survive the physical tumult of a world war, dislocations, shipping to the U.S., and more than 50 years of wear and tear in order to sit today on collectors' shelves looking new and fresh from the factory.
Not many did.
The remainder of the TM1 era - the post war years of 1946-1949 - formed a new, important epoch in the history of the Hummel figurine as a favorite American collectible.
Its mission to conquer Germany completed, the American military began the task of reconstructing its part of the country, which fortunately included the Coburg/Roedental area where the Goebel factory is located.
From 1946 to 1948, figurines intended for the U.S. market (for practical purposes, the only market of this period) were marked with several U.S. Zone, Germany back stamps, usually with print under glaze decal but sometimes stamped over the glaze.
The U.S. Zone, Germany mark definitely dates any TM1 Hummel to postwar production. Quite often, however, it is accompanied by one of the crown marks. And, it is even known to be accompanied on one figurine by both the crown mark and the full bee mark (TM2)!
The more important happening of the postwar period, however, was discovery of Hummel figurines by American servicemen and their families.
Oh, it wasn't just Hummels they discovered. With the war and the efforts to destroy Germany over, there came the time to study, appreciate, and enjoy the country's treasures.
This seeking of treasures coincided with a time when the German people had little in mind except restoring order to their lives. To most Germans of the period, nonessential possessions held little importance.
Americans bought cheaply and bartered favorably for classic Black Forest clocks, for wonderful antique German steins, for exquisite Meissen porcelain, for original works of art, for woodcarvings and ivory carvings - and, of course, for M.I. Hummel figurines.
For the most part, this is how the bulk of the early Hummels came to America - in the company of or shipped by American servicemen in the years of 1946 through about 1972. During this extended period, Germany's finest goods were cheap, and the German people were more than willing to part with them.
(Today, there are literally caravans of German antiques dealers scouring the U.S. for these clocks and steins and Meissen pieces and art and carvings and Hummels to send them back to a rapidly growing German/European market.)
Before we leave the TM1 era, there are still other important things to note.
First there was a period, say 1948-1950, when the crown mark was used without the U.S. Zone mark. Surviving examples of this marking will likely be indistinguishable from the pre-1946 pieces if they were produced in both periods.
Second, we discover early on that there is a major overlap in the TM eras. Recall, we said, "In 1950, Goebel officially adopted its now-famous full bee mark in honor of Sister Maria Innocentia Hummel, who had died four years previously."
However, it has been verified that the full bee mark was used on at least some pieces as early as 1948, two years before its supposed inception.
A few paragraphs back we alluded to a figurine marked with the crown, full bee and U.S. Zone marks. Note this occurred even though, officially, the U.S. Zone mark was not used after 1948 and the full bee mark was not used before 1950.
In his book, Luckey's Hummel Figurines and Plates, Carl F. Luckey does a fine job in explaining the progression of trademarks, and he says: "The dates of the early trademark changes are approximate in some cases, but are probably accurate to within 5 years or so." Five years or so!
Almost assuredly the crown mark appears on a number of figurines which were actually produced in 1950 or later. It appears frequently in combination with the full bee mark on a single figurine.
(Best rule of thumb for these TM1 + TM2 marked figurines: Price or value them on the TM1 scale as they are considered to be made during the crown era.)
Finally, you should understand that the TM1 era did not come to an abrupt end. At some point around 1950, Goebel was busy phasic in its full bee mark and shipping out the last supply of figurines bearing the crown mark. We do know that figurines first introduced after 1949 are not found with the crown mark.
A point made repeatedly in this book is that these phase-in periods - when one trademark was phased in to replace its predecessor - should be of great interest to advanced collectors because they created trademark scarcities and rarities.
In the TM1 era, for instance, it can be assumed that any figurine first introduced on the market in 1948 or later will fit somewhere between relatively scarce to quite rare in TM1.
After all, it could not have been in production long, and only so may pieces would have been manufactured before the total change to TM2, which we'll take up next.
(Footnotet: The crown mark was used for an unspecified period and on an undetermined number of pieces both in 1960 and in 1969-1971 in conjunction with the prevailing mark in order to protect Goebel's copyright of the mark. Examples on Hummels must be few as they seldom turn up.)
Wondering how much your old comic book is worth? You've come to the right place. An iGuide appraisal gives you the true price of your vintage comics so you can buy or sell with confidence. Internet research is hard and confusing. Not for our experts. We do the hard work so you don't have to. Arm yourself with pricing knowledge. Become an instant expert.
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Help us help you
The more details you provide, the better your appraisal will be. You'll have the opportunity to give a brief description, a deep description, and shoot or upload photos.
Brief In your brief description include details such as month and year (from page 1) title issue number publisher (Marvel, DC, etc.) cover price 10c, 12c, 15c or?
Full Description Here's where you go into the full story. Describe more about the condition, whether it is like new or used. Describe the condition, title, issue number, cover price, etc. Tell us what you know about the comic book...age, where obtained, is it part of a larger collection or a single item? You're not limited by the size of the input box, it expands as you type, so tell us all you know about your item.
While your brief and full descriptions are vital, photos are crucial. Be sure to include at least one photo of the front and back of the comic book.
Good, well lit, clearly focused photos improve your appraisal result and help us have a clearer idea of exactly what you have. Do a good job so we can do a good job.
Before considering the sale of your valuable knife collection, it's paramount to create a detailed inventory list. This critical document is often the first thing requested by prospective buyers. Collectors and dealers rely on specific information to gauge their interest and propose a fair price. Without a detailed inventory, assessing the value and interest in your collection can be difficult or impossible. For those new to the world of knife collecting, the task may appear daunting. However, this guide aims to simplify the process, ensuring you cover all necessary details efficiently.
iGuide suggests utilizing a spreadsheet application, such as Google Sheets or Microsoft Excel, for inventory management. Google Sheets is particularly favored among buyers for its accessibility and is available at no cost with a Gmail account. Creating a Gmail account is straightforward and can be done by searching for "FREE GMAIL ACCOUNT" online. (detail from a Google Sheets page)
What are the key details buyers need to know?
A good list will contain these key points at a minimum:
Brand
The brand or maker of your knife will usually be printed on the handle, often on the shield (the little metal tag on the handle) or on the blade near where the blade and the handle connect. This tiny text printed on the blade is called the TANG STAMP.
Model Number
The MODEL or PATTERN number of your knife is very important. It is usually stamped on the TANG STAMP. Write all the text, for example: 3254 SS.
Blades
How many blades does the knife have?
Year of Production
Do you know? Often the year is printed on the knife blade or on its box if you still have it. This is very helpful information, but optional.
Condition
State whether the knife is USED or LIKE NEW. If it is in the original box, mention it.
Quantity
How many do you have? The answer goes into your quantity column.
Country
What country was the knife made in? This too can often be found on one of the tang stamps, or on the box if you have it.
Special Notes
Sometimes you may have a limited edition, or a commemorative knife. There may be some text and art printed on the blade. This is important information. Include it in your Notes column.
Who buys knife collections today?
One of the top buyers of fine knife collections is 2nd Markets of Nashville, TN. Google 2ND MARKETS BBB PROFILE to learn more.
Learn More About Knife Values
iGuide’s knife price guide is a good place to find the pricing information about your knife collection and its current value. Learn more.
This guide provides a starting point for creating an inventory list of your knife collection. By documenting your collection thoroughly, you're not only preparing for potential sales but also preserving the history and value of your cherished items.
Initially focused on razor blades, PAL took a significant step forward in 1935 when it merged with the Utica Knife & Razor Company, moving operations to Plattsburgh, New York. The merger laid the foundation for PAL’s expansion into knives, an area that would define its legacy.
A Brief History of PAL Blade Company
In 1941, PAL acquired the cutlery division of Remington-DuPont in Bridgeport, Connecticut, positioning itself as a major player in the industry. This acquisition gave PAL access to Remington’s designs and tooling, including the renowned "RH" (Remington Hunting) knife models. The company soon expanded to a 100,000-square-foot facility in Holyoke, Massachusetts, with aspirations to become the nation’s largest cutlery manufacturer.
Contribution to World War II
As the United States entered World War II, PAL Blade Company shifted its focus to meet the needs of the military. The company produced bayonets, sheath knives, and pocket knives for American forces. Models like the RH-35, RH-36, and RH-37 became staples for soldiers across all branches of the armed forces.
The RH-36, in particular, stands out as one of PAL’s most iconic designs. Its robust construction made it ideal for the harsh conditions of war, and surviving examples often bear the wear and tear of their storied past, adding to their collectible appeal.
Post-War Transformation and Decline
After the war, PAL rebranded as the Pal and Personna Blade Co., Inc., shifting its focus to kitchen cutlery and other household products. However, the post-war years brought challenges. By 1953, declining sales and aging machinery forced the closure of its Holyoke factory. PAL was eventually acquired by the American Safety Razor Company, which continued the legacy of its razor blades under the Personna brand.
PAL Knives in Today’s Collector Market
For collectors, PAL knives represent more than just functional tools—they are pieces of history. Military knives, particularly those bearing the RH model designations, are prized for their craftsmanship and wartime provenance. The company’s knives are often found with original leather sheaths, which add to their value.
Condition plays a significant role in determining the value of PAL knives. Mint-condition examples with clear markings and intact sheaths can fetch premium prices at auctions or collector gatherings. Even well-used knives with signs of military service hold significant historical and monetary value.
A Lasting Legacy
PAL Blade Company’s journey from a razor blade manufacturer to a cornerstone of wartime production underscores its adaptability and commitment to quality. Its military knives are enduring symbols of an era when American manufacturing rose to meet global challenges.
Whether you’re a seasoned collector or new to the world of vintage knives, PAL’s products offer a tangible connection to history. Owning a PAL knife is more than owning a tool—it’s preserving the legacy of a company that helped shape American craftsmanship during one of the most critical periods of the 20th century.
For those interested in adding PAL knives to their collection, understanding the history and significance of these pieces is essential. With proper care and appreciation, these knives can continue to tell their story for generations to come.
Wondering how much your item is worth? You've come to the right place. An iGuide appraisal gives you the true price of your valuables so you can buy or sell with confidence. Internet research is hard and confusing. Not for our experts. We do the hard work so you don't have to. Arm yourself with pricing knowledge. Become an instant expert.
How does it work?
It's simple. Tell us what you have. Upload photos. Then we get to work. It takes you less than a minute to complete our form. Invest a minute of your time to gain the price knowledge of iGuide experts.
Your first appraisal is free of charge. No credit card required. No signup required. Need more appraisals? Each additional appraisal is only $5. Bulk discounts available.
Is this a subscription?
No subscription required. You can create a free account if you wish, but it's optional. You can buy appraisal credits in advance to save money, but again, it's not required. Our goal is to make it as simple and friction free as possible to price your valuables.
Help us help you
The more details you provide, the better your appraisal will be. You'll have the opportunity to give a brief description, a deep description, and shoot or upload photos.
Brief In your brief description include details such as year made (if known) model number (if known) maker description markings or texts Any text or markings should be described.
Full Description Here's where you go into the full story. Describe the condition of your item, whether it is like new or used. Describe the size, width, height, length, etc. Tell us what you know about the item...age, where obtained, is it part of a larger collection or a single item? You are not limited by the size of the input box, it expands as you type. So tell us all you know about your item.
While your brief and full descriptions are vital, photos are crucial. Be sure to include at least one photo of each side of your item and closeups of markings or tiny text.
Good, well lit, clearly-focused photos improve your appraisal result and help us have a better idea of what you have. Do a good job so we can do a good job. The old saying "garbage in, garbage out" applies here.
The Franklin Mint issued many coins for sovereign nations, and of those, a significant number were made of platinum rather than gold or silver. The Franklin Mint also produced several so-called 'mini' coins made from platinum. And, in a few instances, Franklin Mint made several commemorative medals sets made of platinum. iGuide's research has determined that the purity level of these platinum medals is about 90% pure. These platinum coins are valued like other platinum bullion coins, they are worth a percentage of the metals or scrap value. They do not have 'rarity' or 'collector' or 'numismatic' value.
Vocalion was founded in 1916 by the Aeolian Piano Company of New York City, which introduced a retail line of phonographs at the same time. The name was derived from one of their corporate divisions, the Vocalion Organ Co. The fledgling label first issued single-sided, vertical cut disc records, soon switching to double-sided, then switching to the more common lateral cut system in 1920.
Aeolian pressed their Vocalion discs on a good quality reddish-brown shellac, which set the product apart from the usual black shellac used by other record companies. Advertisements stated that "Vocalion Red Records are best" or "Red Records last longer." However, Vocalion's shellac was really no more durable than good quality black shellac. Vocalion red surfaces are less hardy than contemporary Victor Records. Audio fidelity and pressing quality of Vocalion records are well above average for the era.
In 1925 the label was acquired by Brunswick Records. During the 1920s, Vocalion also released "race records" (that is, records recorded by, and marketed to, African Americans; their famous 1000 Series). The 15000 series continued, but after the Brunswick takeover, it seems clear that Vocalion took a back seat to the Brunswick label. In 1925-26, quite a few Brunswick titles were also issued on Vocalion, and since the Vocalion issues are much harder to find, one can speculate that they were not available for sale in as many stores as their Brunswick counterparts. By 1928-29, many of the jazz sides issued on the Vocalion 15000 series were extremely rare and highly sought after.
In April 1930, Warner Bros. bought Brunswick Records and, for a time, managed the company themselves. In December 1931, however, Warner Bros. licensed the entire Brunswick and Vocalion operation to the American Record Corporation. ARC used Brunswick as their flagship 75 cent label and Vocalion became one of their 35 cent labels (their race/blues series during this time continued to be significant). Starting in about 1935, the Vocalion label once again became a popular label, signing Billie Holiday, Mildred Bailey, Putney Dandridge, Henry 'Red' Allen and other swing artists. Also, starting in 1935, Vocalion started reissuing titles still selling on the recently discontinued OKeh label. In 1936 and 1937 Vocalion produced the only recordings of the influential blues artist Robert Johnson (as part of their ongoing field recording of blues, gospel and 'out of town' jazz groups). From 1935 through 1940, Vocalion was one of the most popular labels for small group swing, blues, and country. After the Variety label was discontinued (in late 1937), many titles were reissued on Vocalion, and the label continued to release new recordings made by Master/Variety artists through 1940.
During the 1925-1930 period, outside of the 1000 'race' series, Brunswick apparently used the Vocalion brand as a specialty label for purposes other than general sale. This is assumed due to the relative rarity of the Vocalion popular series, and the fact that some of the regular Brunswick releases were also put out for sale as Vocalions. This seems to also be a possible explanation as to why the early 1930s Vocalion are relatively rarer than other ARC records.
ARC was purchased by CBS and Vocalion became a subsidiary of Columbia Records in 1938. The Vocalion label was discontinued in 1940, and the current Vocalions were reissued on the recently revived OKeh label with the same catalog numbers. The discontinuance of Vocalion (along with Brunswick in favor of the revived Columbia) voided the lease arrangement Warners had made with ARC back in late 1931, and in a complicated move, Warners got back the two labels which they promptly sold outright to Decca, yet CBS got to keep control of the post-1931 Brunswick and Vocalion masters!
Most Valuable Blues and Jazz Artists on the Vocalion Label
Charlie Patton
Robert Johnson
Memphis Minnie
Leroy Carr
Tampa Red
Jenny Pope
Bukka White
Mississippi Sarah
Mississippi Moaner
It's not unusual to find grandpa's old gold teeth in a drawer when cleaning out the estate. Are gold teeth worth anything?
The name DENTAL GOLD is given by dentists to any bridgework or caps made of an alloy of gold. Not many people are familiar with the intricacies of gold use in dentistry, but there are many interesting facets of dental gold and how it functions in the mouth. Today, dentists don't often use gold in their dentistry, but in past years it was quite a common practice.
How pure is dental gold?
Dental gold is usually an alloy consisting of 16 parts gold and 8 parts other metals such as palladium, silver, copper and/or tin. Gold buyers want yellow dental gold, not white or silver.
How can I sell gold teeth and bridgework?
Dental gold is valued by weight, usually gram weight (although some buyers use pennyweight). Thus, the weight of the teeth themselves must be eliminated. To do this, you must remove the teeth from the bridgework or cap. How? Simply take a hammer and smash the tooth until it falls from the gold crown or denture. Use pliers to pull any remaining parts from the gold. Next, weigh the gold pieces on a gram scale and write down the total gold weight you have. With that information, you are ready to contact a buyer.
To calculate the value of your dental gold, consider the following example. You have a gold cap, and it weighs 1 gram. There are 31 grams in a troy ounce, so you have 1/31 of an ounce of gold. But it is not pure gold. It is 16 karat, which is 2/3 pure. For simple math, let's use a per ounce price of $1000 for pure or 24 karat gold (obviously, as of this writing it is much higher). Divide $1000 by 31 to get the value of one gram of pure gold. That gives us a value of $32.25 for one gram of pure gold. Take 2/3 of that to get the value of one gram of 16 karat gold, or $21.29. But nobody will pay you 100% of the gold value, because dealers buy for resale and must make a profit. But, armed with this information and your math skills, you can quickly determine how much your gold buyer is offering.
Remember, a buyer of dental gold is a dealer and is buying wholesale from you with the goal of earning a profit. You will not get the full gold value for your gold teeth. Why not? Because like any business there is a markup between wholesale and retail (or scrap value in the case of dental gold).
Today, fillings are more commonly made of other less expensive and/or cosmetically desirable substances like mercury amalgam or polymer compounds. However, gold is still the strongest and longest lasting material a dentist can use.
NOTE - White metal teeth or bridgework not yellow, isn't worth anything. Only yellow gold dental work is wanted by dealers at this time.
Jenkins and Jenkins, established in 1908 in Baltimore, Maryland, was the successor to a silver manufacturer known as A. Jacobi, which was started in 1879. The Schofield Co. of Baltimore bought the tools and dies of Jenkins & Jenkins in about 1915. Some pattern names: Repousse.
Coin collecting is a popular hobby, and some rare coins can fetch a high price on the market. Here are some of the world's rarest coins:
1933 Double Eagle
This is the rarest and most valuable coin in the world. Only 13 of these coins were ever released, and most were subsequently melted down. In 2002, one was sold for over $7 million.
1794 Flowing Hair Dollar
The first silver dollar ever minted in the United States, only 140 of these coins are believed to exist. In 2013, one sold at auction for over $10 million.
1894-S Barber Dime
Only nine of these dimes were ever minted, and only one is known to still exist. In 2007, it sold for over $1.9 million.
1804 Silver Dollar
Only 15 of these coins were ever minted, and they are considered some of the most valuable coins in the world. In 2017, one sold for over $3.8 million.
1913 Liberty Head Nickel
Only five of these coins were ever minted, and they are considered some of the rarest coins in the world. In 2018, one sold for over $4.5 million.
Collecting rare coins can be a thrilling hobby, but it is important to do your research and be cautious of counterfeits. Experts recommend buying from reputable dealers and investing in a grading service to ensure the authenticity and condition of the coins.
These large-sized "movable" 11-1/2" soft plastic figures of Johnny West and friends was one of the longest running action figure series in history. It was produced by Marx starting in 1965. The figures came with plastic accessories and clothing. Some very rare figures exist that were only available in England and Canada, making the series difficult for U.S. collectors to complete.
A number of box variations were used over the years, but the figures remained basically the same. For most of the years there was no uniform or logo or packaging style and series names such as Johnny West Adventure, Collection or Series appeared on some of the packages, or no series name was used at all. Unlike most other series, these packaging variations have no effect on value. The five Fort Apache Fighters figures are a sub-series. The four 9" figures are West kids, not a smaller scale line. The last figure in the series, Jed Gibson, a black cavalry scout, is the scarcest and most valuable figure in the series. There were also three figures that were only produced in Canada and/or England.
The iGuide Grading Guide provides several layers of depth to appeal to both new and advanced collectors alike. We suggest "report card" grades which we hope will help non-experts. Grading should be easy but too often for new collectors it is not. A term like MINT is vague for newbies. But grade A makes sense to anybody who has ever received a report card. The iGuide Grading Guide provides our so-called "report card" letter grades from A+ to F, as well our our 1 to 10 numeric grades (on a scale of 1 to 10) and then the standard grades used by many collector books. These grades attempt to describe preservation state. They follow rules used by collectors for years to keep things clear when buying, selling, or talking about items. Grading helps with consistency in buying, selling, and advertising. Proper grading takes a lot of experience and is more an art than a science, so we hope this guide will help you get started as you learn how to MAKE THE GRADE.
Grading for beginners
Like coins, stamps, sports cards, movie posters, and everything else that people collect, currency is valued according to condition. Because human beings prize things that glitter, the more like new it is, the more collectors will pay for it. Seems simple enough, right? WRONG! Because arguing about condition actually means negotiating price, buyers and sellers often have a hard time agreeing on grade. But, fortunately, standard terms exist that everyone agrees on (what those terms mean is another story). Sadly, it takes years of looking at thousands of variations before you can truly become a knowledgeable grader. So how do you know what grade it is in if you are new at making the grade? Let me suggest that you start simple and then hone in on the final grade.
First let's look at some general terms that could be used to describe the condition of these things, then we'll cover some specialized terms that dealers and collectors use.
PERFECT
We all know what this is, something in brand new condition. A brand new note that has never been used is probably in PERFECT, like-new condition. The term for perfect condition is MINT. Although some dealers will try to convince you that 100 year old notes are not graded as strictly as newer ones, I would not believe it if I were you. When it comes to PERFECT, new is new, period.
ABOVE AVERAGE
If someone obtained a note, handled it carefully once or twice, and then carefully filed it away, it is in ABOVE AVERAGE condition. We refer to notes in above average condition as CHOICE UNCIRCULATED (abbreviated CHOICE BU).
AVERAGE
The term collectors use to describe AVERAGE condition is VERY GOOD (or VG for short). Since currency was meant to be used and carried, those notes that have been handled are in average condition. Minor creases, folds, wear, pin holes — these are flaws that are typical from normal use and is both common and acceptable in an AVERAGE USED note.
BELOW AVERAGE
Notes that you carried and in circulation for a long time are probably in BELOW AVERAGE condition because circulation beats the @@#$!! out of paper money. And it looks it! The note is still complete but with heavy wear and probably lots of creases and tiny tears from careless storage. In other words, notes in BELOW AVERAGE condition look ROUGH! Collectors describe a note in below average condition as GOOD. Actually, there's nothing good about it other than the fact that you have one to keep until a better one comes along.
POOR
Better known by the technical term "crap" first coined by a dealer named Steve Geppi. A note in poor condition looks like it was rescued from the trash can of history...and probably was. You know you have handled a poor condition note when you rush to wash your hands afterwards. Poor means TERRIBLE!
Now that you know the five basic ranges of condition, it's much easier to focus in on exactly what the real grade is. Try it yourself. Take a stack and grade them. Is the first one just like the day it was printed except for a tiny crease on a corner? Then it's not PERFECT, but you could certainly say it's ABOVE AVERAGE. Put it in the ABOVE AVERAGE stack. Does the next one look carried and circulated? Put it in the AVERAGE stack. Continue sorting into basic grades. When you are done, refer to the following detailed grading descriptions. Start at the lowest grade and work your way up. Think in terms of report grades A+ to F with AVERAGE being a C, or a 10 scale from 0 to 10, with AVERAGE being a 5. The one that sounds closest to the grade of the item in hand is the actual grade.
Now let's look at the technical grading terms collectors use to describe condition. At trade shows and on eBay you will see these grades and grade-codes used to indicate grade. Memorize them, learn what they mean, and then you can start MAKING THE GRADE like a pro.
Uncirculated Grades
The term UNUSED refers to a note that has never been in general circulation. It has never been folded, carried, or torn and is in unused condition. The unused grades range from a perfect A+ to B- which is an unused note showing faint signs of wear.
The Importance of Accurate Grading
The phrase "Condition, Condition, Condition" is often heard among currency dealers and collectors, emphasizing the importance of this factor in determining value. Accurate grading allows for a fair assessment of worth, helping buyers and sellers reach a mutual agreement on price. However, it’s important to note that different grading systems exist, so understanding the specific standards used is essential to avoid confusion.
This being said, writing a good grade description is more of an art than a science. One can be too brief, or too comprehensive, with equally bad effect. If too brief, the reader has an eerie feeling of uncertainty which causes the buyer not to buy. Too much detail, and the opposite can happen: the buyer imagines the accumulation of flaws in the description of every tiny flaw and pictures an item in horrible shape, when this is not the case.
Collecting currency is a well-established hobby going back decades. It has established a set of grade terminology that all market participants use to describe the condition of their notes. So-called Third Party grading services such as PCGS and NGC provide certified grades that meet the standards set by the market. The following grades are the well-established grades provided by the American Numismatics Association.
A+
70 EPQ Gem Uncirculated 10 on a scale of 1 to 10.
Perfect. Brilliantly clean, crisp, bright, sharp corners, deep color. The highest grade possible. Notes must have no evidence of handling visible at 5x magnification. The margins and registration must appear centered to the unaided eye.
The 70 grade represents an extremely rare state of preservation and should NOT be used unless the item is absolutely perfect!
The item exhibits an amazing state of preservation with virtually no perceptible flaws of any kind, other than very minor flaws which may have occurred during the printing process.
A+
69 EPQ Superb Gem Uncirculated 10 on a scale of 1 to 10.
This note is nearly visually indistinguishable from a 70 but the margins and registration may appear slightly off center. There is no evidence of handling visible to the unaided eye.
A+
68 EPQ Superb Gem Uncirculated 10 on a scale of 1 to 10.
The margins and registration are slightly off center. There may be very minor handling.
A+
67 EPQ Superb Gem Uncirculated 10 on a scale of 1 to 10.
A note with above-average margins and registration. There may be minor handling.
A
66 EPQ Superb Gem Uncirculated 9 on a scale of 1 to 10.
There may be slightly more handling than a 67 EPQ note. The centering must be above average.
A
65 EPQ Gem Uncirculated 9 on a scale of 1 to 10.
The note may have one or two minor distractions as a result of minor handling. The centering must be above average.
A
64 Choice Uncirculated 9 on a scale of 1 to 10.
The centering is off on one or two sides. Some handling may be evident but there must be no creasess in the design.
A
63 Choice Uncirculated 9 on a scale of 1 to 10.
The centering is imperfect and the design may be flat. There may be several flaws but there will be no folds.
A-
62 Uncirculated 8 on a scale of 1 to 10.
The note is strictly uncirculated but may have minor-to-moderate handling and/or corner tip issues. There will be no folds, however. The margins may touch or come into the design.
A-
61 Uncirculated 8 on a scale of 1 to 10.
The note is poorly centered and the margins come into the design. There may be counting marks, smudges or other signs of handling. There will be no folds through the design.
A-
60 Uncirculated 8 on a scale of 1 to 10.
A note with problems that may include toned paper, a small stain or fading. There will be handling issues but there will be no folds through the design.
B+
58 Choice About Uncirculated 7 on a scale of 1 to 10.
Barely circulated. Appears uncirculated but upon close inspection, it apparently has been lightly circulated. Often a note with a single fold that crosses the design.
B+
55 About Uncirculated 7 on a scale of 1 to 10.
Barely circulated. This grade is commonly assigned to a note that has one fold or two to three corner folds through the design.
B
53 About Uncirculated 7 on a scale of 1 to 10.
Barely circulated. Clean, crisp, sharp corners, good color. Two or three very light almost invisible vertical folds.. Minor signs of handling.
B-
50 About Uncirculated 7 on a scale of 1 to 10.
Barely circulated. Sharp, crisp, clean, strong color. The note can have two heavier folds or light horizontal and vertical folds. The handling can be noticeable.
Circulated Grades
The term USED refers to a note that has been in general circulation. It has been folded, carried, or torn and is in obviously circulated condition. The used grades range from a C+ down to F which is a used but showing heavy signs of wear.
C+
45 Choice Extremely Fine - Circulated 6 on a scale of 1 to 10.
Barely circulated. Minor discoloration and wear, crisp, fairly sharp, decent color. A note with two to three heavy folds, one of which may be horizontal.
C+
40 Extremely Fine - Circulated 6 on a scale of 1 to 10.
Lightly Circulated. Noticeable discoloration and wear, weakening paper, minor corner wear, good color. There are three or more folds, one of which may be horizontal.
C
35 Choice Very Fine - Circulated 5 on a scale of 1 to 10.
Lightly Circulated. For years dealers and collectors called this grade VF-XF. This note looks Extremely Fine, but it will have four to seven light creases.
C
30 Very Fine - Circulated 5 on a scale of 1 to 10.
Lightly Circulated. This note will be circulated and may have light soiling. Can have up to seven to ten folds.
C
25 Very Fine - Circulated 5 on a scale of 1 to 10.
Moderately Circulated. A note that shows modest evidence of circulation as well as more folds and/or soiling than a note graded 30.
C
20 Very Fine - Circulated 5 on a scale of 1 to 10.
Moderately Circulated. The note is moderately circulated with numerous folds, mild soiling. There are no serious detractions but there may be minor defects.
C-
15 Choice Fine - Circulated5 on a scale of 1 to 10.
Moderately Circulated. This note may look like a Very Fine note, but upon closer examination it is found to have too many folds or too much circulation to warrant a Very Fine grade.
C-
12 Fine - Circulated 4 on a scale of 1 to 10.
Rough Circulated. Evidence of circulation is considerable with rounded corners, margin splits and other issues. The note must be whole with solid paper.
D
10 Very Good - Circulated 3 on a scale of 1 to 10.
Rough circulated. A solid, whole note with lots of circulation. The note is limp and has a number of minor problems.
D
8 Very Good - Circulated 2 on a scale of 1 to 10.
Rough circulated. The note is heavily circulated but is intact. Some small pieces may be missing. Soiling, light stains or splits are common for this grade. The note is limp.
F
6 Good - Circulated 1 on a scale of 1 to 10.
Poor, rough circulated. The note is very worn with serious splits, fraying of the margins and damage.
F
4 Good - Circulated 1 on a scale of 1 to 10.
Poor, rough circulated. A very heavily circulated note with numerous problems. It is totally limp with impaired visual appeal. Notes in this grade are commonly seen with pieces missing.
Descriptions
Here are some typical descriptions we see in the marketplace. Note the arrangement of descriptive detail, and choice of upper/lowercase notation.
GEM UNCIRCULATED sharp corners, crisp, rich color, no folds, no tears, no pinholes, no visible wear
CHOICE UNCIRCULATED Barely circulated. Clean, crisp, sharp corners, good color, no folds, no tears, no pinholes --- see photos
ABOUT UNCIRCULATED Barely circulated. Clean, crisp, sharp corners, good color, no folds, no tears, no pinholes --- see photos
EXTRA FINE CIRCULATEDVERY FINE CIRCULATED. noticeable wear and wrinkling, good color, numerous folds, no tears, no pinholes --- see photos
FINE CIRCULATED fairly clean, well worn with noticeable folds, no tears, no pinholes --- see photos
VERY GOOD CIRCULATED well worn, numerous folds, minor edge tears, no pinholes --- see photos
ROUGH CIRCULATED discolored and well worn with numerous folds, edge erosion, and edge tears --- see photos
Star Wars collectibles have been a staple in the memorabilia market for decades, captivating fans and collectors alike. From vintage action figures to limited-edition merchandise, certain Star Wars items have significantly appreciated in value. While many collectibles remain widely available, only specific pieces hold substantial worth based on rarity, condition, and demand.
Is there a market for Star Wars Collectibles? One aspect of Star Wars memorabilia that many people are unaware of is the potential monetary value of certain collectibles. The market for Star Wars merchandise has fluctuated over the years, influenced by movie releases, collector interest, and production rarity. First-edition action figures, mint-condition toys, and promotional items tend to retain strong resale value, whereas mass-produced merchandise may not fetch high prices.
The Market For Star Wars Collectibles
The market for Star Wars collectibles remains strong, with dedicated collectors and pop culture enthusiasts driving demand. However, the demand for Star Wars memorabilia is weak unless items are in "Mint Condition" and include original packaging or authentication. Worn-out, heavily used, or mass-produced collectibles typically hold little value. Specialty memorabilia shops, online marketplaces, and collector conventions serve as primary trading venues for high-value Star Wars collectibles.
Factors Affecting Price
Condition is crucial when determining a Star Wars collectible’s value. Items in near-mint condition with authentication documents and original packaging will fetch significantly higher prices than those with wear or missing components. Rarity and historical significance also play a major role—first-run action figures, movie props, and exclusive promotional items are highly desirable. Provenance impacts value as well, with items directly linked to production milestones or actor ownership attracting serious collectors. Demographics influence market trends, with longtime Star Wars fans and pop culture historians seeking unique memorabilia.
Buying and Selling Star Wars Collectibles
For those interested in buying and selling Star Wars collectibles, authenticity and condition are key. Ensuring that an item retains its original features and verifying authenticity is crucial, as reproductions and forgeries can diminish value. Market trends fluctuate, and certain collectibles may increase in value over time while others remain stable. Knowledgeable collectors can find profitable opportunities through estate sales, memorabilia conventions, and specialty auctions.
Who buys Star Wars Collectibles today?
Collectors, sci-fi enthusiasts, and pop culture investors continue to drive the market for Star Wars collectibles. However, as older collectors downsize their collections, demand for specific items may shift. High-end buyers seek rare and pristine-condition memorabilia, while casual fans look for affordable keepsakes. Despite changing trends, interest in Star Wars collectibles remains strong, particularly for historically significant and rare pieces.
Not all Star Wars collectibles have monetary value, but some remain highly sought after. Examples include original action figures, movie props, and rare promotional items from the 1970s and 1980s.
Top 5 Star Wars Collectibles to hunt for
1. 1978 Vinyl Cape Jawa Action Figure – One of the rarest Star Wars figures, valued at $10,000+. 2. 1977 First-Edition Luke Skywalker Action Figure – A highly collectible figure that can sell for $25,000+ in mint condition. 3. Star Wars Kenner Prototype Figures – Early production prototypes can fetch $50,000+. 4. Screen-Used Movie Props – Authentic props from the original trilogy often reach six-figure prices. 5. 1985 Yak Face Action Figure – A rare figure from the final Power of the Force line, valued at $5,000+.
Learn More About The Value of your Star Wars Collectibles
iGuide’s appraisal service is a good way to discover the value of your Star Wars collectibles. Learn more.
Provenance, essentially the history of ownership, is a vital element in assessing the authenticity, value, and historical significance of a collectible. Whether it’s a painting by an Old Master, a rare coin, or a limited-edition trading card, a well-documented provenance adds layers of credibility and allure, enhancing the item’s appeal to discerning collectors. In a market where authenticity is paramount, provenance provides the backbone for genuine historical and monetary worth.
The Role of Provenance in Fine Art
In the art world, provenance serves as a chronological trail leading back to a piece’s origin. This record often begins with details about who commissioned or created the work and continues through each owner, sale, or exhibition it has encountered. Collectors and historians rely on provenance to verify a piece’s authenticity, detect forgeries, and place it within the broader context of art history. This can make all the difference when evaluating its cultural and financial value, especially if the artwork was owned by notable collectors, displayed in prestigious exhibitions, or featured in historic sales.
For example, discovering that a painting once hung in the salon of an iconic collector or was exhibited at a landmark gallery event can substantially boost its market value. Such documented lineage also serves as proof of the work’s originality and place in the artist’s oeuvre, qualities that elevate it far above similar yet undocumented pieces.
Provenance in Collectibles: Coins, Trading Cards, and Beyond
Beyond fine art, provenance remains invaluable for other collectibles, such as rare coins, trading cards, and high-end memorabilia. While these items may not carry the same cultural gravitas, they often hold deep sentimental and financial value for collectors. In these cases, provenance can verify authenticity and offer insights into rarity and condition, both of which directly impact an item’s market value.
For instance, a coin that passed through the hands of notable collectors or survived intact through different historical periods acquires added significance. Similarly, a trading card that has been graded for quality and comes with a documented history—perhaps of its purchase by a famed collector or a feature in a key auction—often commands a premium. Collectors take pride in owning items with a rich history, as these pieces come with stories that deepen their connection to the collectible world.
Provenance as a Protective Measure Against Forgeries
In a market vulnerable to counterfeits and reproductions, provenance offers a safeguard. By documenting an item’s history, it becomes easier to identify anomalies, such as sudden gaps in ownership, that might suggest foul play. For buyers, especially those investing significant sums, a well-documented provenance acts as a measure of confidence, reassuring them of their investment’s authenticity. Reputable sellers, too, rely on provenance to uphold trust and integrity in their offerings.
Conclusion: The Timeless Value of Provenance
Whether it’s a work of fine art, a rare historical document, or a collector's coin, provenance is more than a record of ownership. It is a timeline that reveals an item’s legacy, enriches its story, and safeguards its place within its respective market. As collectors seek items with both intrinsic and extrinsic value, provenance becomes the key to understanding and preserving the authenticity and significance of collectibles across time and trends.
Our 10-point scale for grading vintage paperback rarities is similar to systems already adopted in other markets. By using a set of standardized grading terms, we can ensure the growth of the hobby now and in the future.
We have outlined the various grades, and described the specifications for each. These grading definitions are intended to help you rate the condition of your vintage paperback. As in any collectible, the better the condition of an item, the more valuable it is.
A+
10 on a scale of 1 to 10. AN (As New)
Perfect, i.e. - brilliant, unusually bright, glossy, white pages, sharp, pristine, etc. Seldom used by professionals since it represents perfection...and perfection is extremely rare.
A
9 on a scale of 1 to 10. F (Fine)
Virtually flawless. Superb. For a book to receive this grade it may have only the slightest traces of wear noticeable upon very close inspection. Inside, the pages must be creamy, no trace of brown, and also there can be no name plates or other writing inside the book. Outside, the spine must be solid and clean with no fading. Very tiny amounts of wear to the spine may be present. No crease of any kind is permitted. The book appears to be perfect but upon close inspection tiny problems can be found. Generally, the highest grade found in the marketplace since C10 is an extremely rare grade.
A-
8 on a scale of 1 to 10. AF (About Fine)
An exceptional copy. Acceptable to all but the most finicky collector. This is a sharp, almost Fine copy. It can have no major defects but may have an accumulation of several minor ones, such as a tiny color chip on the spine or extremities. Other possible flaws might include a small, penciled arrival mark on the cover on an otherwise Fine book. No creases. Pages can be slightly yellowed, but not brown.
B+
7 on a scale of 1 to 10. VGF (Very Good to Fine)
Slightly worn. Closer to VG than to AF, but still a very well preserved copy without major defects. Pages will not be brown, and no name plate or writing can be on the endpages. Light spine wear/flaking, or minor cover wear is the typical problems with books in this grade. A light reading crease along the spine or very minor corner crease might be present.
B
6 on a scale of 1 to 10. VG (Very Good)
The typical used paperback in average condition. A solid copy, although with wear and defects to be expected. Unusual problems will be noted. The book can have very slight browning of pages but not brittleness or flaking; it may also have a small name written on an endpage, or a small nameplate.
Minor peeling of the lamination covering the book can be expected, but extreme peeling will eliminate the book from this grade. A corner crease (1/4" or less) or two can be present, but numerous creases are not allowed in this grade. A light reading crease along the spine is normal for this grade.
A minor spine roll is allowable, a heavy spine roll is not ailowable in this grade unless noted and the book is a higher grade otherwise. General spine wear can be expected, however, unusually heavy spine wear is not permitted in this grade. The spine should be complete and solid, if not - major problems should be described - such as a split spine. In any case, a spine split should be described to length and should eliminate the book from this grade if it is over 3/4" in length. Tape anywhere on the book is not allowed in this grade. A small pen mark on the cover can be present if noted, but not if large, heavy, or if affecting the eye appeal of the book.
Damp stains prevent the book from being C6. One small arrival date is allowable without being noted, but any other writing on the cover should be noted. Sun-fading on the spine or cover should be described, and if significant, should prevent the example from the VG grade. Insect or rodent damage is not allowable in this grade. Price stickers or peel-marks from removal of a price sticker is allowable in the VG grade only when the area affected is small and not a serious detraction from the cover art. No color touchup with colored markers is allowable in this grade.
B-
5 on a scale of 1 to 10. VG- (Very Good Minus)
C
4 on a scale of 1 to 10. GVG (Good to Very Good)
A borderline book that is closer to VG than it is to G. The accrual of several of the above mentioned defects should move an otherwise VG book to this grade. Books in this grade are similar in appearance to a VG book, but with heavier or more severe creases, flaking, etc. Minor dampstains are permitted in this grade.
C-
3 on a scale of 1 to 10. G (Good)
A worn, creased, flaked example. Crumpled and worn corners. Tape, waterstains, writing, brittleness of pages, pieces or chips missing, heavily rolled spine etc., are to be expected in this grade. Typically a reading-copy only, with all pages complete.
D
2 on a scale of 1 to 10. FR (Fair)
The lower grades are separated by degrees of damage. The accumulation of many defects lowers a book from the C3 grade down to the C2.
F
1 on a scale of 1 to 10. P (Poor)
Extremely worn, possibly incomplete, although such should be noted.
GLOSSARY OF TERMS
PBO - Paperback Original. A first appearance in book form. Would be described as a "First Edition" by an antiquarian book dealer. Should not be confused with the term "First printing" or "First Paperback".
First printing - By default, it is customary in the hobby to assume a book is a first printing unless otherwise noted. It is incumbent upon the seller to accurately note the printing of any book he or she is selling.
First Edition versus First Printing - A paperback book can be a first printing and not be an original (PBO) - i.e. when the First Edition is hardcover or appeared in an earlier paperback version.
Elvis Presley records have been treasured collectibles for decades, captivating fans and collectors alike. From rare pressings to limited-edition releases, some records have significantly appreciated in value. While many Elvis records remain in circulation, only specific editions hold substantial worth based on rarity, condition, and demand.
Is there a market for Elvis Presley Records? One aspect of Elvis Presley record collecting that many people are unaware of is the potential monetary value of certain pressings. The market for Elvis records has fluctuated over the years, influenced by collector interest, record label variations, and historical significance. Rare first pressings, promotional copies, and unique misprints tend to retain strong resale value, whereas common reissues may not fetch high prices.
The Market For Elvis Presley Records
The market for Elvis Presley records is strong, with dedicated collectors and music enthusiasts driving demand. However, the demand for Elvis records is weak unless they are in "Mint Condition" and come with original sleeves, labels, and inserts. Worn-out, scratched, or heavily used records typically hold little value. Specialty record shops, online marketplaces, and collector conventions serve as primary trading venues for high-value Elvis records.
Factors Affecting Price
Condition is crucial when determining an Elvis Presley record’s value. A record in near-mint condition with its original packaging and minimal surface noise will fetch significantly higher prices than one with wear and scratches. Rarity and pressing also play a major role—early Sun Records pressings, limited-edition colored vinyl, and misprinted labels are highly desirable. Historical significance impacts value as well, with records linked to major milestones in Elvis' career attracting collectors. Demographics influence market trends, with longtime Elvis fans and vinyl enthusiasts seeking unique pieces.
Buying and Selling Elvis Presley Records
For those interested in buying and selling Elvis Presley records, authenticity and condition are key. Ensuring that a record retains its original pressing details and verifying authenticity is crucial, as reissues and bootlegs can diminish value. Market trends fluctuate, and certain records may increase in value over time while others remain stable. Knowledgeable collectors can find profitable opportunities through estate sales, record fairs, and specialty vinyl shops.
Who buys Elvis Presley Records today?
Collectors, music historians, and vinyl enthusiasts continue to drive the market for Elvis Presley records. However, as older collectors downsize their collections, demand for certain editions may shift. High-end buyers seek rare and pristine-condition records, while casual fans look for affordable, playable copies. Despite changing trends, interest in Elvis Presley records remains strong, particularly for historically significant releases.
Not all Elvis Presley records have monetary value, but some remain highly sought after. Examples include first pressings, promotional copies, and rare international releases.
Top 5 Elvis Presley Records to hunt for
1. "My Happiness" (1953 Sun Records Demo) – Elvis’ first-ever recording, one of the rarest records, valued at $300,000+. 2. "That’s All Right" (1954 Sun Records 78 RPM) – The first commercial Elvis release, valued at $10,000+. 3. "Elvis Presley" (1956 RCA Victor First Pressing) – His debut album, highly collectible, often selling for $3,000+. 4. "Stay Away, Joe" (1967 Promotional LP) – A rare promotional release, valued at $5,000+. 5. "Moody Blue" (1977 Limited-Edition Blue Vinyl) – A sought-after collector’s item, valued at $1,500+.
Learn More About The Value of your Elvis Presley Records
iGuide’s appraisal service is a good way to discover the value of your Elvis Presley records. Learn more.
In 1833, the American silverware industry witnessed the formation of a significant partnership that would leave a lasting mark on the craft. Wood and Hughes emerged from the collaborative efforts of Jacob Wood, Jasper Hughes and William Gale, with the former two honing their skills as apprentices under Gale's tutelage. This trio laid the groundwork for a firm that would become synonymous with quality, innovation, and artistic excellence in silver craftsmanship.
The Founding Partners
The partnership was built on a foundation of mentorship and mastery of the silversmith's art. William Gale's guidance was instrumental in shaping the skills and aesthetic sensibilities of Wood and Hughes, setting the stage for the firm's future success. This early period of collaboration and learning underscored the importance of passing down traditional techniques while fostering an environment of creativity and innovation.
Signature Patterns
Wood and Hughes distinguished themselves through the introduction of several iconic patterns, each reflecting the firm's adaptability to various stylistic periods and preferences:
Gadroon: Characterized by its intricate edging, this pattern exemplifies the firm's mastery of detailed ornamentation.
Louis XV: Inspired by the opulent Rococo style, this pattern captures the elegance and extravagance of the French court.
Byzantine: Reflecting the historical and artistic influences of the Eastern Roman Empire, this pattern is noted for its complexity and richness.
Fiddle: A testament to the firm's versatility, this simpler design caters to a more understated aesthetic, focusing on form and function.
Legacy and Influence
The legacy of Wood and Hughes is preserved in the enduring beauty and quality of their silverware. Through their innovative designs and commitment to craftsmanship, they contributed significantly to the evolution of the American silver industry. The firm's diverse range of patterns demonstrates an ability to both respect tradition and embrace change, making Wood and Hughes a pivotal player in the history of decorative arts.
Sega video games played a crucial role in the evolution of the gaming industry, and many classic titles remain highly collectible today. From rare cartridges to factory-sealed editions, certain Sega video games have significantly appreciated in value. While many games are widely available, specific titles hold substantial worth based on rarity, condition, and demand.
Is there a market for Sega Video Games? One aspect of Sega game collecting that many people are unaware of is the potential monetary value of certain titles. The market for Sega video games has fluctuated over the years, influenced by collector interest, historical significance, and production rarity. First-run cartridges, sealed games, and limited-release titles tend to retain strong resale value, whereas mass-produced games may not fetch high prices.
The Market For Sega Video Games
The market for Sega video games remains strong, with dedicated collectors and retro gaming enthusiasts driving demand. However, the demand for Sega games is weak unless they are in "Mint Condition" and include original packaging, manuals, and inserts. Loose cartridges or damaged labels typically hold little value. Specialty gaming stores, online marketplaces, and auction houses serve as primary trading venues for high-value Sega games.
Factors Affecting Price
Condition is crucial when determining a Sega video game’s value. Games in near-mint condition with sealed packaging will fetch significantly higher prices than those with scratches, label wear, or missing components. Rarity and edition also play a major role—limited-run releases, prototype cartridges, and games with misprints are highly desirable. Historical significance impacts value as well, with games that were part of major industry events or had limited distribution attracting serious collectors. Demographics influence market trends, with retro gaming fans and nostalgia-driven buyers fueling demand for classic Sega titles.
Buying and Selling Sega Video Games
For those interested in buying and selling Sega video games, authenticity and condition are key. Ensuring that a game retains its original components and verifying authenticity through reputable sources is crucial, as reproductions and counterfeit copies can diminish value. Market trends fluctuate, and certain games may increase in value over time while others remain stable. Knowledgeable collectors can find profitable opportunities through gaming conventions, specialty game stores, and online auctions.
Who buys Sega Video Games today?
Collectors, retro gaming enthusiasts, and investors continue to drive the market for Sega video games. However, as older collectors downsize their collections, demand for specific games may shift. High-end buyers seek rare and pristine-condition games, while casual gamers look for affordable playable copies. Despite changing trends, interest in Sega video games remains strong, particularly for historically significant and rare editions.
Not all Sega video games have monetary value, but some remain highly sought after. Examples include early console titles, factory-sealed games, and rare promotional items.
Top 5 Sega Video Games to hunt for
1. Panzer Dragoon Saga (1998) - Sega Saturn – One of the rarest Sega Saturn games, often selling for $400+ in mint condition. 2. Sonic the Hedgehog (1991) - First Print/Early Production – A rare find, Graded 9.6 Wata, Sealed copy fetched $100,000+ at auction. 3. MUSHA (1990) - Sega Genesis – A rare and desirable shoot-'em-up, valued at over $1,500+. 4. Snatcher (1994) - Sega CD – A cult classic with complete copies selling for $2,000+. 5. Tetris (1989) - Sega Mega Drive – A legendary Sega rarity, with prices exceeding $10,000.
Learn More About The Value of your Sega Video Games
iGuide’s appraisal service is a good way to discover the value of your Sega video games. Learn more.
Vintage robots have fascinated collectors for decades, representing a blend of nostalgia, craftsmanship, and early technological innovation. From tin wind-up robots to battery-operated remote-controlled models, certain vintage robots have significantly appreciated in value. While many vintage robots remain common, specific models hold substantial worth based on rarity, condition, and demand.
Is there a market for Vintage Robots? One aspect of vintage robot collecting that many people are unaware of is the potential monetary value of certain models. The market for vintage robots has fluctuated over the years, influenced by collector interest, historical significance, and production rarity. First-edition robots, unique color variations, and those in mint condition tend to retain strong resale value, whereas mass-produced models may not fetch high prices.
The Market For Vintage Robots
The market for vintage robots remains strong, with dedicated collectors and retro toy enthusiasts driving demand. However, the demand for vintage robots is weak unless they are in "Mint Condition" and include original packaging, accessories, and working mechanisms. Worn-out, heavily used, or mass-produced robots typically hold little value. Specialty antique shops, online marketplaces, and collector conventions serve as primary trading venues for high-value vintage robots.
Factors Affecting Price
Condition is crucial when determining a vintage robot’s value. Items in near-mint condition with authentication documents and original packaging will fetch significantly higher prices than those with wear or missing components. Rarity and historical significance also play a major role—limited-run robots, prototypes, and first-edition models are highly desirable. Provenance impacts value as well, with items directly linked to iconic toy brands like Masudaya, Nomura, and Marx attracting serious collectors. Demographics influence market trends, with longtime collectors and toy historians seeking unique memorabilia.
Buying and Selling Vintage Robots
For those interested in buying and selling vintage robots, authenticity and condition are key. Ensuring that an item retains its original features and verifying authenticity is crucial, as reproductions and forgeries can diminish value. Market trends fluctuate, and certain collectibles may increase in value over time while others remain stable. Knowledgeable collectors can find profitable opportunities through estate sales, toy fairs, and specialty auctions.
Who buys Vintage Robots today?
Collectors, retro toy enthusiasts, and pop culture investors continue to drive the market for vintage robots. However, as older collectors downsize their collections, demand for specific items may shift. High-end buyers seek rare and pristine-condition robots, while casual fans look for affordable nostalgic pieces. Despite changing trends, interest in vintage robots remains strong, particularly for historically significant and rare pieces.
Not all vintage robots have monetary value, but some remain highly sought after. Examples include early tin robots, battery-operated space toys, and rare promotional models from the 1950s and 1960s.
Top 5 Vintage Robots to hunt for
1. Masudaya Radicon Robot (1957) – One of the first radio-controlled tin robots, valued at $30,000+. 2. Nomura Smoking Robot (1956) – A highly collectible wind-up robot that can sell for $10,000+. 3. Horikawa Fighting Robot (1960s) – A sought-after battery-operated robot, valued at $3,000+. 4. Marx Big Loo (1963) – A rare plastic space robot toy that can fetch $5,000+. 5. Yonezawa Diamond Planet Robot (1950s) – A unique tin-plate robot with light-up features, often selling for $8,000+.
Learn More About The Value of your Vintage Robots
iGuide’s appraisal service is a good way to discover the value of your vintage robots. Learn more.
Randall Made Knives, founded by Bo Randall in 1938, is renowned for its handcrafted knives. Each model has its unique history, design, and purpose. Below is a guide to models 25 - 28 and the years they were released.
1988
Model 25 - The Trapper: Drop-point hunter-style knife, similar to Model #11. Handle construction is reminiscent of a 1930's design. 1990
Model 26 - Pathfinder: Excellent skinning and outdoor knife with a drop point. This knife has become one of our more popular small size hunting knives. 2000
Model 27 - Trailblazer: An ideal all-around heavy-duty sportsman's knife. 2010
Model 28 - Woodsman: Small Drop point hunter w/ micarta handles. 2012
Model 27 - Mini Trailblazer: 3-1/2 inch blade version of the Trailblazer.
Randall Made Knives, founded by Bo Randall in 1938, is renowned for its handcrafted knives. Each model has its unique history, design, and purpose. Below is a guide to models 14 - 24 and the years they were released.
1954
Model 14 - Attack: This knife was designed to meet the demand for an almost indestructible all-purpose knife. It is especially suited for combat and survival purposes.
Model 15 - Airman: Designed especially for aircrew survival and combat purposes in cooperation with U.S. Marine Corps Equipment Board. 1958
Model 16 - Diver's Knife: A robust knife designed for heavy-duty saltwater use. 1960
Model 17 - Astro: Specially designed for the seven Mercury astronauts who carried them on America's first manned space flights. Astronaut Gordon Cooper did the final design and two of these historically valuable knives are on display in the Smithsonian Institution. It became available to the public in 1963. 1963
Model 18 - Attack and Survival: A hollow-handled survival knife.
Model 19 - Bushmaster: Designed by a professional woodsman for all-around camp and big game hunting purposes. An excellent big game skinning knife.
Model 20 - Yukon Skinner: An adaptation of our Model #4 specially designed for big game purposes by Ward Gay, the famous Alaskan bush pilot. 1966
Model 21 - Little Game: A smaller hunting knife for game preparation. Especially suited for caping and other delicate cutting duties. 1971
Model 22 - Outdoorsman: A thinly-beveled blade for the professional outdoorsman. 1972
Model 23 - Gamemaster: A variation of the Model #19, serving the same purposes. Developed because of popular demand for a knife with these characteristics. 1978
Model 24 - Guardian: Specially designed in 1978 for use by police, undercover agents, and law enforcement personnel for self-protection and as a back-up weapon.
Morgan silver dollars, minted from 1878 to 1904 and then again in 1921, are among the most popular and collected coins in the United States. Their value is determined by several factors, including mint year, mint mark, condition, and rarity. Here are some of the rarest and most valuable Morgan silver dollars:
1889-CC The Carson City mint produced fewer Morgan dollars than any other mint, and the 1889-CC is particularly rare, especially in higher grades. It's one of the most sought-after coins by collectors.
1895 "Proof Only" Got one of these? It is worth a small fortune. The 1895 Morgan dollar is known as the "King of the Morgan Dollars" because no business strike coins are known to exist, only proofs. With a reported mintage of only 880 proofs, it's a rare find for any collector.
1884-S The 1884-S is another Morgan dollar that, while not rare in terms of overall mintage, is extremely rare in higher grades. Most of the mintage was circulated, leaving few in uncirculated condition.
1886-O While not as rare in terms of mintage numbers, the 1886-O Morgan dollar is incredibly scarce in high grades. Most were either heavily circulated or poorly struck, making Mint State examples rare.
1892-S While the 1892-S Morgan dollar had a relatively large mintage, high-grade examples are exceedingly rare. Most were circulated heavily, making high-grade specimens a rarity.
1893-OThe New Orleans mint produced fewer Morgan dollars in 1893, making the 1893-O another rare and valuable coin, particularly in higher grades.
1893-S The 1893-S Morgan dollar is the key date of the series, with the lowest mintage of any regular issue at only 100,000 coins. High-grade examples are exceedingly rare and highly prized by collectors.
1894 With one of the lowest mintages for a Morgan dollar at the Philadelphia mint, the 1894 is scarce in all grades and especially rare in higher grades.
1901 The 1901 Morgan dollar from the Philadelphia mint, especially in high grades, is considered rare due to the low survival rate of high-quality coins.
The value of these rare Morgan dollars can vary greatly depending on their condition and the current market demand. Coins graded by reputable grading services in uncirculated condition (MS) can fetch premium prices, often reaching into the tens or even hundreds of thousands of dollars for the rarest in high grades. It's essential for collectors to consult up-to-date price guides or seek appraisals from trusted numismatic professionals to determine the current market value of these rare coins.
Holloware represents a fascinating category within the world of metalwork, encompassing a wide range of utilitarian and decorative items. This concise exploration delves into the essence of holloware, focusing on its definition, varieties, and particularly, the composition and use of pewter in holloware crafting.
Defining Holloware
Holloware broadly refers to articles crafted in the shape of hollow vessels. This term encapsulates a diverse array of items including, but not limited to, mugs, ewers, teapots, coffeepots, bowls, and pitchers. The category extends to encompass trays, waiters, and various plates, highlighting its versatility and utility in daily life and special occasions alike. The defining characteristic of holloware lies in its functional design, often balancing the practical with the aesthetically pleasing.
The Composition and Craft of Holloware Pewter
Pewter, an alloy primarily composed of tin, has been favored for centuries for its malleability and lustrous finish. Holloware pewter, with a traditional blend of eighty percent tin and twenty percent lead, has been a material of choice for creating teapots, tankards, coffee pots, and liquid measures. This specific alloy allows for the creation of durable, yet intricate pieces, showcasing the craftsman's skill in molding and detailing.
Modern Considerations and Legacy
Today, the concern for health and safety has led to a decline in the use of lead in pewter alloys, with modern pewter typically being lead-free. This shift underscores a broader trend towards safer materials without compromising the quality and beauty of holloware items. The legacy of holloware pewter, with its rich history and craftsmanship, continues to be celebrated in collections and use, bridging past and present through each meticulously crafted piece.
In sum, holloware encompasses a significant facet of decorative arts, embodying both function and form. Whether in the form of traditional pewter or modern adaptations, it remains a testament to the enduring appeal of crafted metalwork.
Collecting original movie posters and related memorabilia is gaining popularity in the United States and worldwide. The movie memorabilia areas on eBay are among their most popular, and a recent traffic report on Amazon.com showed that movie posters and related memorabilia was their #2 most popular area (behind Pokemon).
As coin and stamp collecting matured, independent third party grading services formed whose purpose was to accurately grade and certify the authenticity of an item. Today, even sports cards and comic books now have third party grading services. Dealers and collectors in these fields report that selling a rare non-certified baseball card or comic book is becoming a nearly-impossible task. Many collectors in these hobbies seek to have their collections certified by these grading services. This certification is what creates a liquid market for "sight unseen" collectibles, with the certified grade being a sort of insurance policy or guarantee of authenticity and condition.
All of these services are based on some version of a 10-point scale. An item rated as a 10 is the highest degree of perfection, often called
Mint, and an item rated as a 1 is in horrible condition, virtually worthless except for extremely rare items.
Until the introduction of our 10-point system, the movie poster marketplace suffered from a lack of a standardized system for ranking of condition. Each movie poster merchant more or less "invented" their own system, with one seller's "Fine" equal to another seller's "Condition B" and yet another's "Excellent." Lack of grading consistency among merchants is a major obstacle to growth in any hobby. Why? Because buyers feel more secure with "sight unseen" internet buying when they are familiar with a consistent grading system. New collectors in any hobby become advanced collectors through knowledge, including knowledge of terminology. Without a set of grading terms and definitions, buyers may feel confused and uncertain about the quality of items they are buying over the internet or through the mail. Confusion and uncertainty are not good for the growth of any hobby.
Our 10-point scale for rating movie posters is similar to systems already adopted in other hobbies such as coins, comic books, and sports cards. By using a set of standardized grading terms, we can ensure the growth of the movie memorabilia hobby now and in the future.
THE ART OF DESCRIPTION
When grading, one should remember the goal: to paint an accurate picture in the mind of the potential buyer of what to expect upon receipt of the item.
Of course, a picture is worth a thousand words, and a seller should always include high-quality images, but too frequently an image does not clearly show all flaws. This is when a good grading description becomes invaluable. The buyer relies on the seller's honesty and accuracy in disclosure. It is therefore incumbent upon the seller to do the best job possible.
This being said, writing grade descriptions is more of an art than a science. One can be too brief or too comprehensive, with equally bad effect. If too brief, the reader has an eerie feeling of uncertainty which causes a decision not to buy. Too much detail, and the opposite can happen: the buyer imagines the accumulation of flaws in the description of every tiny flaw and pictures an item that is in horrible shape, when actually this is not the case. Particularly in the higher grades, all flaws should be described (C8 or higher) in detail. Any obtrusive flaws should always be described, regardless of the grade.
The buyer must be satisfied with the condition of the item upon receipt. If not, the seller must be willing to give a refund to the buyer upon return of the item in the same condition as when sent.
MINT 10.0 (M 10.0) (C10)
An extremely rare grade for all but the most recent items. Item is "as new" or in the same condition as the day it was made.
The C10 grade represents an extremely rare state of preservation and should NOT be used unless the item is absolutely perfect!
The item exhibits an amazing state of preservation with virtually no perceptible flaws of any kind, other than very minor flaws which may have occurred during the printing process.
Printing registration should be perfect. In many cases an otherwise "mint" poster may have printing flaws in the registration, or alignment, of colors causing one color to stand slightly offset from the others. This should be almost imperceptible otherwise reduce the grade to C9.
The folding/trimming process should not have resulted in any damage to the item of any kind. Sometimes a poster may have slight fold lines which occurred when the poster was put through the folding machine. If the fold line broke the ink, causing a faint white line, the item should not be graded C10.
No edge fraying or dents/impressions are allowed in this grade.
NEAR MINT 9.0 (NM 9.0) (C9)
Item may be in "never-used" condition or may have been used in the theater, but was carefully preserved after use. The poster should appear to be in absolutely superb, unusually
excellent condition. Older posters in this condition are extremely rare.
The following flaws are typical in this grade, but should be described:
One tiny pinhole in each corner, or a maximum of 4 pinholes
Slightly offset color registration
Very slight compression marks (indentations) from movie theater use (IE: Clamped in a display)
No fold wear or if fold wear is apparent it should be almost invisible. Fold lines should not be white. All original color must be present.
The following flaws are NOT acceptable in this grade:
Creases, except fold creases occuring at the time of manufacture
Tape or tape stain residue
Minor holes
Writing, (marker pen, biro etc.) on the front of the poster
Foxing (light brownish spots that look almost rusty)
Dampness staining
Paint staining
Soiling, i.e. mildew or dustiness
Minor Fading
Minor Paper loss (very small piece missing)
Censor stamp/sticker
Border chips
Staple marks
VERY FINE TO NEAR MINT (VFNM 8.5) (C8.5)
The observer should note that all of the above variables (from the C9 description) also apply to the C8.5 grade, so we won't repeat them here. The accumulation of flaws push the item to this lower
transition grade.
VERY FINE 8.0 (VF 8.0) (C8)
Item may be in "never-used" condition or may have been used in the theater, but was carefully preserved after use.
If a C9 is almost like new, then a C8 is not as nearly perfect but still quite excellent.
Poster should be bright, supple, and clean.
An accumulation of more than two or three of the following flaws should cause the grader to assign a lower classification.
The following flaws are acceptable in this grade, but should be described:
Tiny pinholes, up to a total of 10
A border crease or corner crease, but should be a small one, and not more than one or two very small ones. Small is defined as less than one inch.
Slightly offset color registration
Very slight compression marks (indentations) from movie theater use (IE: Clamped in a display)
Very slight fold wear, resulting in slight color loss at the folds; but, if the fold wear is such that a distracting white line results, then the item would not qualify for a C8 rating.
One very small tape stain can be permitted but NO TAPE.
Minor tears are allowed in this grade, but they should be MINOR, meaning less than 1/2 inch or 1 cm in length, and not more than two total tears on the item. Common areas for tears on posters are at the folds, especially the interior folds where the item may have been unfolded and then refolded. This kind of minor paper separation (tear) is common and is acceptable in a C8 grade notwithstanding other extenuating circumstances.
Very slight edge or fold wrinkling or fraying is acceptable
Writing, (pencil, light pen) on the front of the poster if it is very small and in an unobtrusive area (a mustache pencilled on Bogart's face would not qualify). Window cards may have writing in the appropriate area.
Writing on the back of the poster which DOES NOT BLEED THROUGH is acceptable in this grade.
Foxing (light brownish spots that look almost rusty) must be mentioned and is permissible only if very slight.
Dampness staining can be permitted if it is a very small stain and is described.
Very slight soiling, i.e. mildew or dustiness
Censor stamp/sticker if it is very small and only if in an unobtrusive area of the item.
A small border chip can be present if it is less than 1/2 inch square and is described in detail
Staple marks if they are very slight and clean, not torn.
The following flaws are NOT acceptable in this grade:
Tape
Punch holes
Heavy writing, (marker pen, biro etc.) on the front of the poster. The exception to this rule is window cards, which had a blank area at the top of the poster for writing
show dates and which may have show dates written in heavy grease pencil and still quality for the C8 grade.
Heavy writing, (marker pen, biro etc.) on the back of the poster which bleeds through
Paint staining
Heavy soiling, or dingy dirtiness
Severe Fading
Large Paper loss (one or more large pieces missing)
Very large (more than 4" by 4") censor stamps or stickers
Multiple Border chips
Heavy and torn staple marks
FINE TO VERY FINE 7.0 (FVF 7.0) (C7)
A nicely preserved item. An item in this grade has many of the same flaws as the higher C8 grade, but, because of a greater accumulation of flaws, can not be assigned the higher classification.
Whereas a C8 grade may only have two or three of the above flaws, a C7 may have 7 or 8 of them.
The following flaws are to be expected in this grade:
Pinholes or staple holes
Tape
Creases
Fold wear, resulting in slight color loss along the fold lines
Fold holes: one or two very small ones
Very minor fading
Heavy writing, (marker pen, biro etc.) on the front of the poster. The exception to this rule is window cards, which had a blank area at the top of the poster for writing show dates and which may have show dates written in heavy grease pencil and still quality for the C8 grade.
Writing, (marker pen, biro etc.) on the back of the poster which may slightly bleed through
Minor dampness staining
Minor soiling
Paper loss (one or more pieces missing)
Censor stamps or stickers
Border chips
Please note that all of the above variables (from the C8 description) also apply to the C7 grade, so we won't repeat all of them here. Instead, we would like to make it clear
to the reader that the C7 grade is a transition grade, still quite nice, but obviously used and unable to honestly be credited with the higher C8 grade because of an accumulation of flaws.
FINE 6.0 (FN 6.0) (C6)
A Window Card with the top border trimmed away should not be rated higher than C6, even if in otherwise C10 condition.
Several pinholes in each corner of the poster, from being displayed, is acceptable in this grade.Pinholes may be present in background, artwork or typography areas.
Tears in this grade should be no longer than 1 inch to 2 inches in length, and totalling not more than four tears. Minor fold tears are acceptable but should be described.
Light creasing is allowed in 1 or more of the four corners and/or along 1 or more of the four borders. Creasing may affect background, artwork or typography areas but should be described as such.
Minor writing and/or marks, i.e. (marker pen, biro etc.) on the front of the poster, is allowed in this grade, however, such writing should be described. Writing on the back of the poster, which DOES NOT BLEED THROUGH, is acceptable in this grade but once again should be described.
Posters which have been folded may have fold wear in this grade. This is acceptable, providing the wear does not significantly affect the eye appeal of the image, and has not damaged any print on the poster.
Poster should be bright and supple.
Poster should be the correct measurement for its size, and show no signs of it having been trimmed on any of its borders.
Minor edge fraying or wrinkling is allowed in this grade but should be described as such.
Minor surface paper loss is allowed in this grade if documented in the description.
The following flaws are typical in this grade, but should be documented and described:
Numerous, countless pinholes
Border creases which may extend into the image area of the poster
Tape or tape stain residue
Minor holes
Writing, (marker pen, biro etc.) on the front of the poster
Foxing (light brownish spots that look almost rusty)
Dampness staining
Paint staining
Soiling, i.e. mildew or dustiness
Minor Fading
Minor Paper loss (very small piece missing)
Censor stamp/sticker
Border chips
Staple marks
Linen/Paper backing can improve or eliminate the faults mentioned above. Cost of restoration will depend on the skill of the restorer, as well as the number of defects that need to be repaired.
VERY GOOD TO FINE 5.0 (VGFN 5.0) (C5)
The observer should note that all of the above variables (from the C6 description) also apply to the C5 grade, so we won't repeat them here. The accumulation of flaws push the item to this lower
transition grade.
VERY GOOD 4.0 (VG 4.0) (C4)
Poster will exhibit any or all of the following flaws, which seller may or may not describe in detail:
Numerous pinholes
Numerous creases
Numerous tears which should be noted
Heavy creasing in all four corners/four borders, as well as in the background, artwork and typography areas of the poster.
Writing and/or marks, in marker pen and/or biro, on the front and back of the poster
Writing in bigger letters/numbers, such as displaying show times and/or dates
Posters which will have been folded will have heavy fold wear in this grade.
Fold separations or tears located anywhere on the poster
Severe edge fraying or wrinkling
Several holes, of from 1 to 2 inches in diameter each
Pieces of tape and/or tape stain residue
Severe damp staining
Soiling or other signs of aging
Severe to moderate fading over most areas of the poster
Paper loss and/or small to medium portions of paper missing
Censor stamps/stickers
Trimmed borders
Brittleness of paper
The poster shows many signs of wear and tear. This grade is applied to the average used poster or lobby card.
GOOD TO VERY GOOD 3.5 (GVG 3.5) (C3.5)
The observer should note that all of the above variables (from the C4 description) also apply to the C3.5 grade. The accumulation of flaws push the
item to this lower transition grade.
GOOD 3.0 (G 3.0) (C3)
Countless pinholes all over of the poster, from being displayed, are expected in this grade. Pinholes may be scattered around borders, background, artwork and typography areas. Some/many of these
pinholes may be larger and may have been ripped/torn when the poster was removed from display.
Tears in this grade are to be expected. Tears may have caused heavy surface paper loss.
Heavy creasing in all areas of the poster is normal in this grade.
Heavy writing and/or marks, in marker pen and/or biro, on the front of the poster, is expected in this grade. Heavy writing and/or marks may be over faces/bodies of actors/actresses, and may
include defacement. Heavy writing and/or marks which bleed through from the back of the poster is expected in this grade. Heavy writing in bigger letters/numbers, such as displaying show times
and/or dates on the poster will be found over any background/main artwork or typography areas.
Posters which will have been folded will exhibit heavy fold wear in this grade.
Any or all of the following flaws are normal for this grade:
Severe fold separation, either on borders or interior fold lines (where the fold lines meet), with the separation being 2 inches or more in length. A heavy area of surface paper loss around these separations is normal.
Heavy edge fraying or wrinkling.
Holes of more than 1 inch in diameter. These holes could affect any area of the poster.
Pieces of tape/tape stain residue, of more than 2 inches in length. These tape/tape stain residues may affect any area of the poster.
Heavy foxing
Heavy water staining over most or all of the poster
Heavy paint staining over most or all of the poster
Heavy soiling, i.e. mildew
Severe fading over most or all of the poster
Heavy paper surface loss and/or large portions of paper missing, affecting any area of the poster.
Poster may have censor stamps/stickers, and these may affect any area of the poster.
There may be complete fold separation, along all/most of 1, or more, vertical/horizontal fold lines, causing the poster to be in 1 or more pieces.
Poster may have fragile, brittle paper, which may break and come apart, when opening/closing the poster. Careful handling will be needed.
Paper loss from borders
Staple marks
Poster may have one or all four borders trimmed
FAIR 2.0 (FR 2.0) (C2)
An extremely worn and torn example, heavily used, not preserved.
POOR 1.0 (P 1.0) (C1)
Item will exhibit some or all of the defects described in C2, but to a greater degree. Only the rarest of items will have any value in this grade.
For collectors, the allure of an item is often tied to its rarity, historical significance, or enduring cultural impact. Unfortunately for Reader's Digest magazine enthusiasts, the publication doesn't check many of those boxes when it comes to being a valuable collectible.
A Common Misconception
Some might assume that because Reader's Digest was once a popular and widely circulated magazine, older issues would have "collector" value today. The short answer? WRONG! No, they don’t—with the possible exception of the very first issue. Even in pristine, "like new" condition, Reader's Digest magazines have little, if any, market value.
Overproduction: The Supply Is Too High
The primary reason Reader's Digest magazines aren’t valuable is simple: they were mass-produced in high numbers over a long period of time. There’s no shortage of available copies, even in "good" condition. As a result, the supply far outweighs any collector demand, making these magazines almost worthless as collectibles. On the iGuide Demand Scale—where A+ indicates the most sought-after items—Reader's Digest magazines score a dismal D, indicating that demand is practically non-existent.
The First Issue Exception
As mentioned, the first issue of Reader's Digest holds marginally more value, but even that exception comes with a caveat. First editions or rare issues might be more valuable than later ones, but the market is limited. You might find a buyer willing to pay a bit more for the inaugural issue, but it won’t fetch the kind of prices that, say, a first-edition comic book or vintage baseball card might.
If you have what you think may be a rare magazine, it would be wise to get a free iGuide Appraisal Report
If you're hoping to offload your collection to a charity or second-hand store, you might be disappointed. Organizations like Goodwill don’t typically accept Reader's Digest magazines due to lack of demand. In many cases, even if they did accept them, the magazines would sit unsold on shelves. The market for reselling them simply isn’t there.
A Collectible of the Past
Ultimately, while Reader's Digest had its moment of cultural relevance, that hasn't translated into lasting collectible value. The oversaturation of copies and the lack of significant demand all contribute to the magazine’s low standing in the collectible world. For most collectors, Reader's Digest is little more than a curiosity of a bygone era—an item whose marketability has long since faded away.
Summary
If you’re sitting on a stack of old Reader's Digest magazines hoping for a financial windfall, it’s safe to say that their value is negligible. Aside from the slim possibility of owning a rare or first edition, these magazines are better suited for recycling than for any serious collector's shelf.
One Ounce of Gold
The South African Chamber of Mines had an inspired idea to help market South African gold. It was to issue a one ounce bullion coin, to be sold at a very low premium over the intrinsic gold value.
Back in 1967
Krugerrands were first minted and issued in 1967, and have been produced every year since. They have legal tender status in South Africa, which allowed them to be imported into many, but not all, countries without import taxes, duty or VAT.
The Krugerrand Family
Originally only one size was issued, which contained one full troy ounce (31.1035 grams) of fine gold. This was originally known as a Krugerrand, or Kruger, for short. From 1980, three other sizes were introduced, namely a half, quarter, and tenth ounce size. Because of these, the original Krugerrand is sometimes referred to as a "full" or "one ounce" Kruger or Krugerrand, although within the trade, the word Kruger or Krugerrand is understood to be the full sized original one ounce version.
British Investors Missed Out
At the time of the kruger's introduction, it was not legally possible for British residents to acquire bullion gold coins, so that the Krugerrand was almost unknown in Britain until 1971.
Low Premium Over Gold Content
According to the publicity at the time, the Kruger was to be made available to world bullion dealers at a 3% premium over the current gold fix, so that after distribution costs, the coins would be available to investors in quantity at about 4% to 5% over intrinsic gold values, and possibly 10% premium for single pieces.
Higher Premium on Smaller Sizes
The fractional sizes were issued at higher premiums to bullion dealers of 5%, 7%, and 9% respectively. The fractional coins have never been as popular as the full one ounce coins, usually only being purchased as singles, so that in practice, it would usually cost 10% to 15% premium for the half and quarter ounce, and from 20% to 50% premium for the tenth ounce, most of which seem to have been used in jewelry. Most bullion houses do not want the bother of handling small quantities of low value coins
Technical Specifications
The following tables summarize the specifications of all the sizes.
Size
Face Value
Weight
Fineness
Gold Content
Gold Content
Rands
Grams
/1.000
Grams
Troy Ounces
Full
10
33.9305
.917
31.104
1.0000
Half
5
16.9653
.917
15.552
0.5000
Quarter
2.5
8.4826
.917
7.776
0.2500
Tenth
1
3.3931
.917
3.110
0.1000
Size
Remedy (Grams)
Min Diameter (mm)
Max Diameter (mm)
Min Thick (mm)
Max Thick (mm)
Edge
1 oz
+ 0.07
32.61
32.77
2.74
2.84
180
1/2 oz
+ 0.035
26.93
27.07
2.115
2.215
150
1/4 oz
+ 0.02
21.94
22.06
1.788
1.888
140
1/10 oz
+ 0.01
16.45
16.55
1.25
1.35
115
Table Notes
We understand "remedy" to mean the excess weight which the coins are designed to have to allow for any manufacturing tolerances.
The 1/12th of the alloy which is not gold, is copper.
Min. = minimum.
Max. = maximum.
Diameter. = diameter.
Thick. = thickness.
Edge = number of edge serrations
For many years, iGuide.net and 2nd Markets Corporation have envisioned a secure, peer-to-peer trading system for real assets that eliminates the high fees and burdens of traditional third-party middlemen like auction houses and online marketplaces. These third-party layers often take as much as 40% of the value of every transaction. This is unfair and unacceptable in the 21st century. By combining digital authentication, accurate appraisals, and blockchain technology, we propose a streamlined, transparent and open source framework for peer-to-peer trading without the burden of middlemen.
The Evolution of CUSIP: A Blueprint for Identifying Financial Assets...and Beyond?
In the mid-20th century, financial markets faced a growing problem: the sheer volume of securities being traded created significant inefficiencies in tracking, clearing, and settling trades. The solution came in 1964 with the creation of the Committee on Uniform Securities Identification Procedures (CUSIP). This system introduced a nine-character alphanumeric code that uniquely identified financial instruments such as stocks and bonds. By standardizing identification, CUSIP streamlined financial operations, reduced errors, and paved the way for automated trading systems.
The success of the CUSIP system demonstrates how a standardized, universal identification method can solve complex organizational problems. It ensured that every financial instrument had a unique "fingerprint," allowing traders, brokers, and clearinghouses to handle securities with clarity and efficiency. Today, CUSIP numbers are indispensable, underpinning modern financial markets and enabling seamless global trade.
However, while financial instruments now benefit from universal identifiers, a similar challenge exists for tangible assets of value such as fine art, watches, rare coins, sports cards, and other real assets. These assets lack a standardized system for universal and unique identification. Without such a system, the market for these items remains fragmented, with authentication, provenance, and valuation often disputed or unclear.
The Challenge of Identifying Tangible Assets
Unlike stocks or bonds, tangible assets are physical objects, each with unique characteristics and histories. A rare coin may have subtle variations in minting, while a piece of art might carry provenance documentation or distinguishing features. Currently, these details are recorded in disparate systems—appraisal reports, certificates of authenticity, or private databases—which are neither standardized nor universally accepted. This fragmented approach creates inefficiencies in buying, selling, and valuing these items, often leading to disputes or fraud.
A "CUSIP for Tangible Assets": Solving the Problem
Just as CUSIP revolutionized the financial markets, a similar system could transform the world of tangible assets. Imagine a standardized "fingerprint" for personal property—each item assigned a unique identifier that records its details, history, and current market value in a universally accepted format. This "CUSIP for tangible assets" system would unify the market, enabling seamless transactions, clear provenance, and real-time valuation.
The process could work as follows:
1 Appraisal
An expert evaluates the asset to determine its authenticity, condition, and value.
2 Authentication and Certification
Unique characteristics are documented, and the asset is certified by trusted authorities.
3 Assignment of Token
A unique identifier—akin to a CUSIP number—is assigned to the asset and recorded in a digital ledger or blockchain, ensuring its immutability and accessibility.
Innovating Tangible Asset Identification
At iGuide, we recognize the need for such a system. As part of our ongoing research and development initiatives, we are exploring and refining concepts for such a CUSIP-like framework for real assets. We suggest the process begins with comprehensive appraisals, followed by authentication and certification, culminating in the assignment of a unique digital token recorded on a blockchain.
This innovation could empower collectors, buyers, and sellers with a secure, transparent, and universally accepted system for identifying and managing their valuable assets. By combining technology with expertise in appraisals and market data, iGuide.net hopes to be at the forefront of efforts to revolutionize the way real assets are identified, valued, and transacted.
In the same way that CUSIP brought order to financial markets, a "CUSIP for tangible assets" system could do the same for the world of collectibles and valuables—ensuring trust, efficiency, and clarity in every transaction.
Britannia metal, a silver-white alloy, represents a significant development in the field of metallurgy, offering an alternative to traditional pewter with distinct advantages in both appearance and material properties. This alloy, primarily composed of tin, is hardened with copper and antimony to achieve its notable characteristics. The careful balance of these elements not only differentiates it from pewter but also enhances its utility and aesthetic appeal.
Composition and Characteristics
The typical composition of Britannia metal includes a high proportion of tin, which accounts for its silver-white appearance, distinguishing it from the more muted tone of conventional pewter. The alloy is further strengthened by the addition of copper and antimony, which not only harden the material but also contribute to its durability and resistance to wear. Occasionally, small quantities of zinc and bismuth are incorporated to adjust the alloy's melting point and improve its casting qualities. A common formulation of Britannia metal involves 140 parts of tin, complemented by three parts of copper and ten parts of antimony.
Advantages and Applications
The primary advantage of Britannia metal over pewter is its enhanced appearance, which more closely resembles silver, making it an attractive option for decorative items, tableware, and other articles where aesthetics are a priority. The omission of lead in its composition addresses health concerns associated with traditional pewter, further elevating Britannia metal's appeal in the manufacture of food-related utensils and accessories. Its versatility and pleasing visual qualities have made Britannia metal a favored material in the production of high-quality, affordable alternatives to silverware.
Conclusion
Britannia metal's development and widespread use underscore the ongoing search for materials that combine functionality with beauty. By offering an attractive, durable, and safe alternative to pewter and silver, Britannia metal highlights the importance of innovation in material science, catering to both the practical and aesthetic demands of consumers and industries alike.
In 1927, Rolex began issuing every Rolex Oyster case a unique serial number to distinguish them from one another. This numbering system is believed to have started at 20,000. Around 1953, the numbers reached the 999,999 mark, at which time Rolex decided against adding a 7th digit, thus continuing into the "millions"—Instead, they started the sequence over. While it was originally believed that this resequence started over at 100,000, or even 20,000, evidence suggests that it actually restarted at 10,000 or possibly lower.
Around this same time, Rolex had initiated another dating system —They stamped the inside of the case back with a code consisting of a Roman numeral and two numbers. The Roman numerals were I, II, III, IV, which represented which quarter of the year the watch was produced. The numbers simply represented the two-digit year in which the watch was produced. Therefore, the code III 53 would represent the 3rd quarter (i.e. July-September) of 1953--this code continued until around 1970.
In the early 1960s, Rolex once again reached the 999,999 mark, but this time added a 7th digit and continued until mid 1987, when the numbering reached 9,999,999. At this time, Rolex elected to start numbering with a letter prefix (e.g. R000001).
The system started with the letter "R", which was then subsequently followed by L-E-X. Thus spelling out the word "ROLEX" with the "O" being omitted, to help avert any possible confusion with the number "0". This sequence continued through November 1991, when a new numbering system was introduced utilizing the letters N, C and S, which took them through 1993. In 1994, Rolex started yet another sequence with the letters: W, T and U, then A, P, and K in subsequent years.
To add to the confusion, many of these prefixes have run concurrently over the past few years, giving the appearance of a random numbering system. Therefore, only Rolex knows exactly when any particular watch was made and they aren't talking.
Georg Jensen's silver business opened in Copenhagen, Denmark, in 1904 and became one of the leading producers of silverware in the world. The mark on sterling is a wreath topped by a crown and the words Georg Jensen Inc. An American company, Georg Jensen Inc. USA started in New York in 1941 and ceased production about nine years later. Some pattern names: Acanthus, Acorn, Beaded, Bernadotte, Blossom, Cactus, Caravell, Continental, Cypress, Old Danish, Parallel, and Pyramid.
The German teddy bear company, Steiff is responsible for the production of many expensive collectible bears and also the most expensive teddy bear ever made. The Steiff company claims to have made the world’s first teddy bear and has produced a golden bear to commemorate its 125th anniversary.
The expensive bear has a mouth made of solid gold and fur made from gold thread. Topping off the teddy bear are jeweled eyes featuring sapphire pupils with diamond irises.
If you or your daughter simply “must have” the world’s most expensive teddy bear, you might have to search hard for the purchase. Only 125 of the collectible edition bears were produced, making them not just hard to afford, but also hard to find. These bears came with a price tag of 62,446 Euros (about $84,000 USD). But you don’t have to empty your bank account just yet, Steiff toys makes a wide variety of teddy bears that are more affordable than this rare anniversary edition and will still make you feel like a teddy bear connoisseur.
More than a century ago in the late 1800’s, the Morgan Silver Dollar helped the United States become one of the world’s great economic powers. It was beloved at home and treasured around the world for its large size and silver weight, and it has remained a collector favorite to this day.
The Morgan Silver Dollar was born out of the discovery of the Comstock Lode in Nevada, which was the greatest silver strike in American history. In 1878 the U.S. Congress passed the Bland-Allison Act, which required the United States Mint to strike new dollar coins with domestic silver, primarily from the Comstock Lode. The coin was first issued later that same year. It was especially popular in the Western states and territories, and it became a symbol of the “Wild West.”
Named after its designer, U.S. Mint engraver George T. Morgan, the Morgan Silver Dollar features a beautiful portrait of Liberty on the front and a dramatic American eagle on the back. Each coin was struck in 90% silver and is so large that it was known as a “cartwheel” in the West. It was the largest United States silver coin of its era made for circulation.
In the early 1900’s, more than half of the entire production of Morgan Silver Dollars were melted by the U.S. government for their silver content, and millions more were melted in later years to take advantage of rising silver prices. Many of those that remained were worn or damaged in circulation. As a result, only a fraction of all Morgan Silver Dollars remain today, and those in uncirculated condition are the most coveted of all.
Morgan and Peace Silver Dollars are iconic U.S. coins minted from 1878 to 1921 (Morgan) and 1921 to 1935 (Peace). Composed of 90% silver and 10% copper, these coins are sought after by collectors and investors alike. However, the market has been flooded with fakes, particularly from Chinese counterfeiters, casting doubt on authenticity and nearly ruining trust in these historic coins.
Fortunately, one reliable way to authenticate these coins is by checking their weight. Authentic Morgan and Peace dollars should weigh between 26.5 to 26.8 grams, with slight variances due to wear over time. Any coin weighing less than 26 grams is highly likely to be fake.
If you're unsure about the authenticity of your silver dollars, don't take chances. Get a free appraisal at iGuide.net. Protect your investment and ensure your treasures are the real deal!
Amazing Fantasy #15 is highly significant in the world of comics for several key reasons:
1. First Appearance of Spider-Man
This issue, published in August 1962 by Marvel Comics, marked the first appearance of Peter Parker as Spider-Man. Created by Stan Lee and Steve Ditko, Spider-Man has become one of the most iconic and enduring superheroes in comic book history.
2. Origin Story
It introduces Spider-Man's origin story where Peter Parker, a high school student, is bitten by a radioactive spider during a school field trip, granting him superhuman abilities. This issue lays down the foundational elements of Spider-Man's character, including his powers, costume, and the famous motto, "With great power comes great responsibility," although in this issue, the phrase is slightly different: "With great power there must also come great responsibility."
3. Cultural Impact
Spider-Man's introduction in this comic has had a profound impact on popular culture. The character has appeared in numerous comic books, television shows, movies, video games, and other media, becoming a cultural icon.
4. Market Value
Due to its historical significance, Amazing Fantasy #15 is among the most valuable comic books. High-grade copies have been sold for millions of dollars at auctions. For instance, a CGC 9.6 copy sold for $3.6 million in 2021, setting a record for the highest price ever paid for a comic book at that time, though this record has since been surpassed by other comics like Action Comics #1.
5. Artistic Contribution
The issue is notable for its artwork by Steve Ditko, who co-created Spider-Man with Stan Lee. Ditko's unique art style played a significant role in defining the character's look and the feel of his adventures.
6. Influence on the Superhero Genre
Spider-Man's introduction in Amazing Fantasy #15 helped to diversify the superhero genre by presenting a hero with everyday problems, making him relatable to a broader audience. This approach influenced subsequent superhero narratives, emphasizing personal and societal challenges alongside superhuman feats.
The importance of Amazing Fantasy #15 lies not just in its historical first appearance of Spider-Man but also in its lasting impact on comic books, superhero storytelling, and popular culture at large.
Until the introduction of our 10-point system, the marketplace suffered from a lack of a standardized system for ranking of condition. Each merchant more or less "invented" their own system, with one seller's "Fine" equal to another seller's "Condition B" and yet another's "Excellent." In our opinion, lack of grading consistency among merchants is a major obstacle to growth in any hobby. Why? Because buyers feel more secure with "sight unseen" internet buying when they are familiar with a consistent grading system. New collectors in any hobby become advanced collectors through knowledge, including knowledge of terminology. Without such a set of grading terms and definitions, buyers may feel confused and uncertain about the quality of items they are buying over the internet or through the mail. Confusion and uncertainty are not good for the growth of any hobby.
Our 10-point scale for grading is similar to systems already adopted in other markets. By using a set of standardized grading terms, we can ensure the growth of the hobby now and in the future.
C10 : M (Mint) Perfect in every way, as though it came off the press just yesterday.
C9 : NM (Near Mint) Slightly better than Very Fine but definitely not Mint. Many dealers use this grade as their highest grade.
C8 : VF (Very Fine)
Our highest grade. Sharp in every way, like new to near new. Not necessarily mint, but exceptional. Can not have any major noticeable defects. Can have tiny, minor defects. No tears, creases, or brown pages. No surface wear or scuffing. Spine should show no rubbing or wear of any kind. A small arrival date is allowable without being noted. Should be bright and clean, glossy with creamy pages. A brilliant, highly-prized state of preservation.
C7 : FVF (Fine to Very Fine)
Slightly better than Fine but definitely not Very Fine.
C6 : F (Fine) A nice copy with perhaps several minor defects. Should have a complete and solid spine without tears or unusual wear. Defects that can be expected include: minor page browning or yellowing (severe browning is not allowed in this grade), light spine creases and minor edge tears. Defects that are not allowed in this grade are: heavy surface wear, pieces or large flakes missing, heavy spine wear, a rolled spine, insect or rodent damage. A small arrival date is allowable without being noted. Should appear clean and sharp with only a couple of minor detractions.
C5 : VGF (Very Good to Fine)
C4 : VG (Very Good)
A borderline magazine that is closer to VG than it is to G. The accrual of several described defects should move an otherwise VG item to this grade.
C3 : G (Good)
A worn, creased, flaked example. Crumpled and worn corners. Tape, waterstains, brittleness of pages, pieces or chips missing, heavily rolled spine, etc., should be described but are certainly allowable in this grade, which is used to describe a low-quality example. This grade is probably the minimum grade acceptable to most collectors.
C2 : FR (Fair)
Less than G. A terribly worn and dusty example with any major defect probably present. It should be noted that the item is complete, otherwise the buyer may assume that the item is not complete. The item may be described as a filler, or reading copy. Virtually unacceptable to most collectors.
C1 : P (Poor)
An incomplete, tattered, ragged, dreadful copy. The grade says it all - a bad copy. May be missing pages or parts of the cover and spine. May have a tremendous accumulation of other defects. The primary distinction between this grade and FR is that the P grade denotes an item that is not complete, while FR denotes an item that is complete.
The Whiting Manufacturing Co. stands as a significant chapter in the history of American silverware, with its inception in North Attleboro, Massachusetts, in 1866. This company's journey through the annals of silver manufacturing is marked by innovation, craftsmanship, and resilience, culminating in its acquisition by Gorham in 1924. Whiting Manufacturing Co.'s legacy is intricately tied to its exquisite silver patterns, which have become collectible pieces sought after by enthusiasts and connoisseurs alike.
Historical Journey
The company's initial operations in North Attleboro were abruptly halted by a devastating fire, prompting a move to New York City in 1875. This relocation marked a new beginning for Whiting Manufacturing Co., enabling it to expand and flourish in the bustling metropolis. However, the company's narrative took another turn in 1924 when it was acquired by Gorham, a dominant force in the silver industry. Gorham subsequently relocated Whiting's operations to Providence, Rhode Island, in 1926, integrating Whiting's expertise and patterns into its own vast repertoire.
Signature Patterns
Whiting Manufacturing Co. was renowned for its diverse and elegant silver patterns, each embodying the company's commitment to quality and aesthetic beauty. Some of their notable patterns include:
Adam
Alhambra
Antique Lily-Engraved
Arabesque
Armor
Bead
Berry
Colonial Engraved
Duke of York
Egyptian
Heraldic
Hyperion
Imperial Queen
Japanese
King Albert
King Edward
Lady Baltimore
Lily
Lily of the Valley
Louis XV
Madam Jumel
Madam Morris
Mandarin
Old King
Pompadour
Radiant
Stratford
Violet
Legacy and Influence
Despite its eventual absorption into Gorham, the Whiting Manufacturing Co. left a lasting impact on the silverware industry. Its patterns continue to be celebrated for their intricate designs and superior craftsmanship, serving as a testament to the company's influence and prestige. Collectors and enthusiasts of fine silverware cherish Whiting's creations, ensuring that the company's legacy endures in the world of decorative arts.
Nintendo Entertainment System (NES) games have remained a staple in retro gaming, with some titles becoming highly collectible over the years. From factory-sealed copies to rare cartridges, certain NES games have significantly appreciated in value. While many games are widely available, specific titles hold substantial worth based on rarity, condition, and demand.
Is there a market for Nintendo Entertainment System Games? One aspect of NES game collecting that many people are unaware of is the potential monetary value of certain titles. The market for NES games has fluctuated over the years, influenced by collector interest, historical significance, and production rarity. First-run cartridges, sealed games, and limited-release titles tend to retain strong resale value, whereas mass-produced games may not fetch high prices.
The Market For Nintendo Entertainment System Games
The market for NES games remains strong, with dedicated collectors and retro gaming enthusiasts driving demand. However, the demand for NES games is weak unless they are in "Mint Condition" and include original packaging, manuals, and inserts. Loose cartridges or damaged labels typically hold little value. Specialty gaming stores, online marketplaces, and auction houses serve as primary trading venues for high-value NES games.
Factors Affecting Price
Condition is crucial when determining an NES game’s value. Games in near-mint condition with sealed packaging will fetch significantly higher prices than those with scratches, label wear, or missing components. Rarity and edition also play a major role—limited-run releases, prototype cartridges, and games with misprints are highly desirable. Historical significance impacts value as well, with games that were part of major industry events or had limited distribution attracting serious collectors. Demographics influence market trends, with retro gaming fans and nostalgia-driven buyers fueling demand for classic NES titles.
Buying and Selling Nintendo Entertainment System Games
For those interested in buying and selling NES games, authenticity and condition are key. Ensuring that a game retains its original components and verifying authenticity through reputable sources is crucial, as reproductions and counterfeit copies can diminish value. Market trends fluctuate, and certain games may increase in value over time while others remain stable. Knowledgeable collectors can find profitable opportunities through gaming conventions, specialty game stores, and online auctions.
Who buys Nintendo Entertainment System Games today?
Collectors, retro gaming enthusiasts, and investors continue to drive the market for NES games. However, as older collectors downsize their collections, demand for specific games may shift. High-end buyers seek rare and pristine-condition games, while casual gamers look for affordable playable copies. Despite changing trends, interest in NES games remains strong, particularly for historically significant and rare editions.
Not all Nintendo Entertainment System games have monetary value, but some remain highly sought after. Examples include early console titles, factory-sealed games, and rare promotional items.
Top 5 Nintendo Entertainment System Games to hunt for
1. Stadium Events (1987) - NES – One of the rarest North American NES games, a loose cartridge can sell for $16,000+. 2. The Legend of Zelda (1987) - First Print/Early Production – Graded 9.2 Wata, Sealed Copy fetched $375,000 at auction. 3. Nintendo World Championships (1990) - Gold Cartridge – A legendary NES rarity, with prices exceeding $20,000 for the loose cartridge. 4. Little Samson (1992) - NES – A cult classic with complete copies selling for $5,000+. 5. DuckTales 2 (1993) - NES – A late NES release with low production numbers, often valued at $1,500+.
Learn More About The Value of your Nintendo Entertainment System Games
iGuide’s appraisal service is a good way to discover the value of your NES games. Learn more.
Diecast cars have been a popular collectible for decades, appealing to enthusiasts of all ages. From vintage Hot Wheels to detailed model replicas, die-cast cars range from mass-produced toys to limited-edition collectibles worth thousands of dollars. While some diecast cars retain or even increase in value, others may not be as desirable depending on their condition, rarity, and brand.
Is there a market for Diecast Cars? One aspect of diecast car collecting that many people are unaware of is the potential monetary value of certain models. The market for diecast cars has fluctuated over the years, influenced by brand popularity, collector demand, and rarity. Brands like Hot Wheels, Matchbox, Dinky, and Corgi often have dedicated followings, with limited-run models commanding higher prices. However, common or heavily used cars may have little resale value.
The Market For Diecast Cars
The market for diecast cars is diverse, ranging from casual collectors to serious investors. However, the demand for die-cast cars is weak unless they are in "Mint Condition" and include their original packaging. Cars with missing parts, paint damage, or modifications generally see lower value. Auction sites, collector conventions, and specialty dealers serve as the main trading platforms for valuable diecast cars.
Factors Affecting Price
Condition is crucial when determining a diecast car’s value. Mint-condition models with original packaging often sell for significantly more than loose or damaged cars. Rarity and brand also impact value—special edition Hot Wheels, pre-war Dinky Toys, and first-run Matchbox cars tend to be in high demand. Historical significance can add value, especially for models linked to famous movies, races, or promotional runs. Demographics also play a role, as older collectors drive demand for vintage models while newer generations favor modern limited-edition releases.
Buying and Selling Diecast Cars
For those looking to buy and sell diecast cars, understanding the market is key. Ensuring authenticity and avoiding counterfeits is crucial, as replicas can diminish a collection’s value. Market trends can shift, meaning some once-desirable models may decline in price. However, knowledgeable collectors who track trends and rarity can find lucrative opportunities through estate sales, online auctions, and collector trade shows.
Who buys Diecast Cars today?
Collectors, automotive enthusiasts, and nostalgic buyers continue to drive the diecast car market. However, as older collectors downsize their collections, the market may experience shifts in demand. High-end buyers focus on rare, pristine-condition models, while casual buyers seek affordable additions to their collections. Despite changing trends, interest in diecast cars remains steady, especially for rare and well-preserved models.
Not all die-cast cars have monetary value, but some remain highly sought after. Examples include first-edition releases, limited-production models, and special promotional cars.
Top 5 Diecast Cars to hunt for
1. 1969 Pink Rear-Loading Beach Bomb (Hot Wheels) – One of the rarest Hot Wheels ever made, valued at $100,000+. 2. 1935 Dinky Toys No. 22D Delivery Van – A vintage collectible worth $5,000+ in mint condition. 3. 1968 Corgi Batmobile – A classic movie tie-in model that can fetch $3,000+ if well-preserved. 4. Matchbox Regular Wheels No. 30 Crane Truck (Pre-Superfast Era) – Highly desirable, with prices exceeding $2,500. 5. 1971 Red Baron (Hot Wheels) – A sought-after collector’s item, valued at $3,500+ in pristine condition.
Learn More About The Value of your Diecast Cars
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Founded in 1862 in North Attleboro, Massachusetts, by Walter Ballou and Roswell Blackinton, the Ballou & Blackinton company stands as a notable chapter in the history of American silverware and jewelry manufacturing. For over a century, this firm remained under the stewardship of the founding families, showcasing a legacy of craftsmanship and entrepreneurial spirit that significantly contributed to the industry's development.
Trademarks and Products
Ballou & Blackinton initially marked their products with a trademark that remained in use until approximately 1900, a hallmark that today aids collectors and historians in identifying and dating their work. The company's portfolio primarily featured sterling silver and 14-karat gold items, encompassing a wide range of products from flatware and holloware to dresserware. Although better known for their exquisite silver and gold pieces, the firm also produced a limited selection of costume jewelry, diversifying its offerings to meet the varied tastes and needs of its clientele.
Acquisition and Legacy
In June 1967, Wells, Inc., another company based in Attleboro, Massachusetts, acquired Ballou & Blackinton, marking the end of its operation under the original family ownership. Despite this change in ownership, the Ballou & Blackinton name remained synonymous with quality and excellence in silverware and jewelry manufacturing.
Global Recognition
One of the company's notable achievements occurred in the mid-1960s when their Marie Louise flatware pattern was selected by the U.S. State Department. This elegant design was chosen for use in all United States embassies around the world, serving as a testament to the company's reputation for producing items of exceptional quality and design. This global recognition underscores the impact of Ballou & Blackinton's craftsmanship on the international stage, cementing their legacy in the annals of American decorative arts.
One Ounce of Gold
Many countries now issue a one ounce bullion coin, to be sold at a very low premium over the intrinsic gold value. The American version is the Eagle.
Krugerrands versus Eagles
Because krugerrands were the first one ounce gold bullion coins to be issued, it is worth comparing gold eagles with krugers.
Krugerrands were first issued in 1967, as one ounce bullion coins. From 1980, they were also produced in fractional sizes of half ounce, quarter ounce, and tenth ounce. Eagles were introduced in 1986, in all four weights except the quarter ounce which was not introduced until 1987
The Eagle Family
Gold Eagles are available in four different sizes and weights, from one ounce to one tenth of an ounce, as detailed below.
Technical Specifications
The following table summarises the specifications of all the sizes.
Size
Face Value
Diameter
Weight
Fine
Gold Content
Gold Content
US $
mm.
Grams
/1.000
Grams
Troy Ounces
One Ounce
50
32.7
34.0500
.917
31.104
1.0000
Half
25
27.0
17.0250
.917
15.552
0.5000
Quarter
10
22.0
8.5130
.917
7.776
0.2500
Tenth
5
16.5
3.4120
.917
3.110
0.1000
Table Notes
The 1/12th of the alloy, or 8.33%, which is not gold, is 5.33% copper and 3% silver.
Diameter = Diameter in millimeters.
US $ = US Dollars
mm. = millimeters.
Fine = Millesimal fineness.
Qtr = Quarter.
Antique pocket watches are prized for their beauty, craftsmanship, and the materials used to make them. A key factor in determining the value of a pocket watch is whether it is made of solid gold, gold filled, or gold plated. Each type of construction significantly impacts the watch’s desirability and market value. Here's a detailed guide to help you identify what your pocket watch is made of and its significance.
Understanding the Differences
Solid Gold
Solid gold pocket watches are made entirely of gold in the specified karat. Common karats include 14K (58.5% gold) and 18K (75% gold). These watches are the most coveted by collectors due to their intrinsic material value and historical importance.
Gold Filled
A gold-filled watch has a thick layer of gold mechanically bonded to a base metal, such as brass. Gold-filled pocket watches are often marked with a warranty period, such as “20 Years” or “25 Years,” which indicates how long the gold layer was guaranteed to last before wearing away.
Gold Plated
Gold-plated pocket watches have a very thin layer of gold electroplated onto a base metal. Unlike gold-filled watches, the gold layer in gold-plated watches is far thinner and less durable, making them the least valuable of the three types.
Markings to Look For
Examining the inside of the backplate (case cover) is the easiest way to identify whether your pocket watch is solid gold, gold filled, or gold plated. Here’s a breakdown of common markings:
For Solid Gold Pocket Watches 14K, 18K, or 22K Indicates the gold’s purity.
Example: A marking that reads “14K” or “18K” guarantees the watch case is solid gold of that karat.
585 or 750 European markings for 14K and 18K gold, respectively.
Hallmarks Stamps like crowns, eagles, or other symbols may indicate gold purity, depending on the country of origin.
For Gold-Filled Pocket Watches "25 Year” or “20 Year” Warranty Indicates the watch is gold filled.
These warranties refer to the durability of the gold layer and were commonly used by American watch manufacturers.
"GF” or “Gold Filled” Clearly indicates the watch has a bonded gold layer.
"Rolled Gold” Another term for gold-filled.
For Gold-Plated Pocket Watches“GP” or “Gold Plated” Explicitly states the watch is plated.
“10 Microns” Refers to the thickness of the gold plating (thin layers are less valuable).
Absence of a Warranty Period
Unlike gold-filled watches, gold-plated pieces rarely include a warranty marking.
Why Solid Gold Pocket Watches Are the Most Valuable
Solid gold antique pocket watches are highly sought after by collectors for several reasons:
Intrinsic Value The gold itself has significant material worth.
Prestige Solid gold watches were luxury items in their time, often owned by wealthy individuals or used as special gifts.
Durability Unlike gold-filled or plated cases, solid gold retains its integrity over decades.
Rarity Many solid gold watches were custom-made or limited in production, adding to their collectible appeal.
For example, a Patek Philippe solid 18K gold pocket watch can easily sell for $10,000 or more, while a solid gold Waltham or Elgin watch may range from $1,000 to $10,000.
The Value of Gold-Filled and Gold-Plated Watches
While gold-filled and gold-plated watches are less valuable, they still hold significance for collectors and enthusiasts:
Gold-Filled Watches
These are more durable than gold-plated watches and are considered mid-range in value.
Examples 20-Year Waltham or Illinois watches may range from $200 to $1,000, depending on condition and rarity.
Gold-Plated Watches
These are at the lower end of the value spectrum due to the minimal gold content.
Gold-plated pocket watches typically sell for $50 to $300
Tips for Identifying and Appraising Your Pocket Watch
1. Inspect the Case Back
Open the backplate carefully and use a magnifying glass to read the markings.
2. Consult an Expert
If you’re unsure about the markings or value, get a professional appraisal.
3. Weigh the Watch
Solid gold watches are noticeably heavier than gold-filled or gold-plated models.
4. Test the Metal
If markings are unclear, a jeweler can perform a gold test to confirm authenticity.
The Current Market for Antique Pocket Watches
The antique pocket watch market is highly competitive, with solid gold pieces commanding the highest prices. Collectors are willing to pay a premium for rare and well-preserved examples, while gold-filled and gold-plated watches cater to more budget-conscious buyers or those seeking decorative timepieces.
Before buying or selling, consider obtaining a professional appraisal from iGuide.net. Their expert evaluations can help you determine whether your pocket watch is solid gold, gold filled, or gold plated—and its true market value.
Guitars have long been more than just musical instruments—they are cultural icons, works of craftsmanship, and in many cases, valuable collector’s items. From vintage acoustics to limited-edition electric guitars, certain models can fetch thousands or even millions of dollars. While some guitars hold significant value, others may not be as sought after, making it essential to understand the market and what makes a guitar truly valuable.
Is there a market for Guitars? One aspect of guitar collecting that many people are unaware of is the potential monetary value of certain models. The market for guitars has seen fluctuations based on musical trends, celebrity ownership, and brand prestige. Iconic brands such as Gibson, Fender, and Martin tend to hold their value well, especially vintage and rare models. On the other hand, mass-produced guitars with little historical significance may not see much demand.
The Market For Guitars
The market for guitars is diverse, ranging from professional musicians to collectors and casual hobbyists. However, the demand for guitars is weak unless they are in "Mint Condition" or have notable historical significance. Instruments with heavy wear, modifications, or missing original parts may struggle to attract buyers. Vintage guitar shops, online marketplaces, and high-end auctions remain the primary places for trading collectible guitars.
Factors Affecting Price
Condition is crucial when determining a guitar’s value. A well-preserved, unmodified guitar with original components will fetch significantly higher prices than a worn-out or altered model. Brand and rarity also play key roles—guitars from prestigious makers, especially those produced in limited runs, can command high prices. Historical significance further drives value, particularly instruments associated with famous musicians or iconic albums. Demographics also influence the market, as vintage guitars appeal to both seasoned collectors and new generations of musicians looking for timeless sound quality.
Buying and Selling Guitars
For those looking to buy and sell guitars, there are both risks and rewards. Accurately assessing authenticity and condition is vital, especially in a market where counterfeits and modified instruments exist. Additionally, market trends can shift, influencing resale prices. However, those with knowledge of sought-after models and proper valuation methods can make substantial profits through guitar trading, auctions, and private sales.
Who buys Guitars today?
Collectors, professional musicians, and enthusiasts drive the market for valuable guitars. However, as older collectors phase out of the market, there is a growing interest among younger musicians in vintage instruments known for their superior craftsmanship. While high-end buyers focus on rare, historically significant guitars, casual musicians seek quality instruments at reasonable prices. Despite market shifts, demand for well-crafted guitars remains strong.
Not all guitars have monetary value, but some remain highly sought after. Examples include rare vintage models, limited-edition releases, and guitars owned by legendary musicians.
Top 5 Guitars to hunt for
1. 1959 Gibson Les Paul Standard – One of the most legendary electric guitars, often selling for $200,000 or more. 2. Fender Stratocaster (Pre-CBS Era) – Early models from the 1950s and early 60s are highly collectible, with prices reaching $50,000+. 3. Martin D-45 (Pre-WWII) – A coveted acoustic guitar known for its exceptional craftsmanship, often valued at over $100,000. 4. Gibson Flying V (1958-59) – A futuristic design that became an icon, rare models can sell for $250,000 or more. 5. PRS Dragon Series – Limited editions featuring intricate inlays and premium materials, with some models fetching over $50,000.
Learn More About The Value of your Guitars
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International Silver Co was formed in Meriden, Connecticut, in 1898 by a group of independent silversmiths. This association came to include Rogers Bros. (and their famous 1847 trademark), Derby Silver, Meriden Brittannia, Webster and Wilcox, among many others. Some pattern names: 1810, Abbottsford, Angelique, Avalon, Berkeley, Blossom Time, Brandon, Breton Rose, Bridal Veil, Brocade, Cloeta, Colonial Shell, Continental, Courtship, Dawn Rose, Deerfield/Beacon Hill, Devonshire, Du Barry, Edgewood, Elegance, Elsinore, Empress, Enchanted Rose, Enchantress, Fontaine, Frontenac, Gadroon, Georgian Maid, Governor Bradford, Grande Regency, Irene, Joan of Arc, La Rochelle, Lady Betty, Lambeth Manor, Mademoiselle, Maintenon, Margaret-New, Margaret-Old, Masterpiece, May Melody, Mille Fleurs, Minuet, Moonglow, Napoleon, Norse, Northern Lights, Old Charleston, Orleans, Pansy, Pantheon, Pine Spray, Pine Tree, Prelude, Primrose, Queen's Lace, Radiant Rose, Revere, Rhapsody-New, Rhapsody-Old, Richelieu, Riviera, Rosalind-New, Rose Ballet, Royal Danish, Royal Rose, Sculptured Beauty, Serenity, Shirley, Silver Iris, Silver Melody, Silver Rhythm, Sonja, Southern Treasure, Splendor, Spring Bouquet, Spring Glory, Springtime, Stardust, Stratford, Swan Lake, Theseum, Torchlight, Trianon, Trousseau, Valencia, Vision, Warwick, Wedding Bells, Wedgewood, Wesley, Westminster, Whitewall-New, Wild Rose-New, Wild Rose-Old, and Windermere
Vintage clothing has been a staple of fashion and self-expression for decades. From timeless designer pieces to unique retro styles, vintage clothing is more than just apparel—it is a reflection of cultural history and craftsmanship. Many vintage garments are highly sought after by collectors, fashion enthusiasts, and sustainability-conscious buyers. However, the market for vintage clothing varies, with certain pieces holding significant value while others are more common and less desirable.
Is there a market for Vintage Clothing? One aspect of vintage clothing that many people are unaware of is the potential monetary value of certain garments. The market for vintage clothing has experienced waves of popularity, driven by fashion trends, celebrity influence, and an increasing demand for sustainable fashion. Rare designer pieces, well-preserved garments from iconic decades, and unique handmade items tend to command higher prices, while mass-produced fast fashion from previous decades may hold little to no value.
The Market For Vintage Clothing
The market for vintage clothing is highly selective, with demand centered around quality, brand, and uniqueness. However, the demand for vintage clothing is weak unless it is in "Mint Condition" and remains intact with all original details, such as labels and buttons. Worn-out, heavily altered, or damaged pieces often struggle to attract buyers. Online marketplaces, vintage boutiques, and thrift shops are popular platforms for buying and selling vintage fashion, but values can fluctuate based on demand and trends.
Factors Affecting Price
Condition is crucial when determining a vintage clothing item’s value. Pieces in excellent condition with no stains, tears, or alterations fetch significantly higher prices than those showing heavy wear.
Brand and rarity also play key roles—designer labels like Chanel, Levi’s, and Vivienne Westwood are highly sought after.
Era and style influence desirability, with 70s boho dresses, 90s streetwear, and 50s couture experiencing resurgences in popularity.
Demographics also impact pricing, as younger generations embrace sustainable and retro fashion trends.
Buying and Selling Vintage Clothing
For those interested in turning vintage clothing into a side business, there are both opportunities and challenges. Accurately assessing authenticity and value can be difficult, especially for high-end designer pieces. Additionally, trends shift quickly, meaning what is desirable today might not be in demand next season. On the other hand, curated vintage boutiques, online reselling platforms, and social media sales have created lucrative opportunities for knowledgeable sellers.
Who buys Vintage Clothing today?
Collectors, fashionistas, and eco-conscious consumers drive the vintage clothing market. However, as older generations downsize their wardrobes and younger buyers shift towards digital marketplaces, the vintage clothing landscape continues to evolve. Designer collectors and stylists searching for period-accurate outfits often pay premium prices, while everyday shoppers hunt for unique, affordable finds.
Not all vintage clothing has monetary value, but some items remain highly desirable. Examples include limited-run designer pieces, rare denim, and culturally significant garments.
Top 5 Vintage Clothing to hunt for
1. Levi’s 501 Jeans (Pre-1980s) – Vintage denim, especially selvedge and Big E labels, can sell for hundreds to thousands of dollars. 2. Chanel Classic Pieces – Timeless couture garments and handbags from the 1950s-90s remain in high demand. 3. Band T-Shirts (1980s-90s) – Original concert tees from legendary bands like Nirvana and Metallica can fetch over $1,000. 4. Designer Handbags – Classic styles from Hermès, Gucci, and Louis Vuitton appreciate in value, with some reselling for tens of thousands. 5. Vintage Sportswear (Adidas, Nike, Champion) – Rare 80s and 90s streetwear pieces are highly collectible and sought after.
Learn More About The Value of your Vintage Clothing
iGuide’s appraisal service is a good way to discover the value of your vintage clothing. Learn more.
Elvis Presley collectibles have remained a favorite among music memorabilia enthusiasts for decades. From autographed items to rare merchandise, certain pieces have significantly appreciated in value. While many Elvis Presley collectibles are widely available, only specific items hold substantial worth based on rarity, condition, and demand.
Is there a market for Elvis Presley Collectibles? One aspect of Elvis Presley memorabilia that many people are unaware of is the potential monetary value of certain collectibles. The market for Elvis memorabilia has fluctuated over the years, influenced by collector interest, historical significance, and production rarity. Signed items, vintage merchandise, and original concert memorabilia tend to retain strong resale value, whereas mass-produced souvenirs may not fetch high prices.
The Market For Elvis Presley Collectibles
The market for Elvis Presley collectibles remains strong, with dedicated collectors and music enthusiasts driving demand. However, the demand for Elvis memorabilia is weak unless items are in "Mint Condition" and include original packaging or authentication. Worn-out, heavily used, or mass-produced collectibles typically hold little value. Specialty memorabilia shops, online marketplaces, and collector conventions serve as primary trading venues for high-value Elvis Presley collectibles.
Factors Affecting Price
Condition is crucial when determining an Elvis Presley collectible’s value. Items in near-mint condition with authentication documents will fetch significantly higher prices than those with damage or missing components. Rarity and historical significance also play a major role—signed memorabilia, limited-run merchandise, and concert-worn items are highly desirable. Provenance impacts value as well, with items directly linked to Elvis' career milestones attracting serious collectors. Demographics influence market trends, with longtime Elvis fans and pop culture historians seeking unique memorabilia.
Buying and Selling Elvis Presley Collectibles
For those interested in buying and selling Elvis Presley collectibles, authenticity and condition are key. Ensuring that an item retains its original features and verifying authenticity is crucial, as reproductions and forgeries can diminish value. Market trends fluctuate, and certain collectibles may increase in value over time while others remain stable. Knowledgeable collectors can find profitable opportunities through estate sales, memorabilia conventions, and specialty auctions.
Who buys Elvis Presley Collectibles today?
Collectors, music historians, and pop culture enthusiasts continue to drive the market for Elvis Presley collectibles. However, as older collectors downsize their collections, demand for specific items may shift. High-end buyers seek rare and pristine-condition memorabilia, while casual fans look for affordable keepsakes. Despite changing trends, interest in Elvis Presley collectibles remains strong, particularly for historically significant pieces.
Not all Elvis Presley collectibles have monetary value, but some remain highly sought after. Examples include autographed items, original concert posters, and rare merchandise from the 1950s and 1960s.
Top 5 Elvis Presley Collectibles to hunt for
1. Elvis Presley Autographs – Authentic signed memorabilia, including records and photos, valued at $5,000+. 2. 1956 RCA Victor Promotional Posters – Highly collectible vintage posters that can sell for $3,000+. 3. Stage-Worn Outfits – Original Elvis-worn clothing items, often reaching $50,000+. 4. Sun Records Original Pressings – First pressings of Elvis’ early music on Sun Records, valued at $10,000+. 5. Limited-Edition Elvis Merchandise – Rare collectibles such as 1950s lunchboxes, figurines, and novelty items, often worth $1,500+.
Learn More About The Value of your Elvis Presley Collectibles
iGuide’s appraisal service is a good way to discover the value of your Elvis Presley collectibles. Learn more.
Oneida Silversmiths was incorporated in 1880 near Sherrill, New York as Oneida Community Limited. It became Oneida Ltd. in 1935 and began producing sterling flatware in 1946, marked Oneida Sterling or Heirloom Sterling. Some Pattern names: Afterglow, Belle Rose, Bountiful, Damask Rose, Dover, Du Maurier, Engagement, First Frost, Flower Lane, Grandeur, Heiress, King Cedric, Lasting Spring, Mansion House, Martinique, Mediterranea, Melbourne, Reigning Beauty, Rubaiyat, Satin Beauty, Sentimental, Silver Rose, Stanton Hall, Twilight, Virginian, Vivant, Will O' Wisp, and Young Love
Sneakers have evolved from simple athletic footwear to a massive cultural and fashion phenomenon. From limited-edition releases to vintage classics, sneakers have become highly collectible, with some pairs commanding astronomical prices in the resale market. Many sneaker enthusiasts treat their collections as investments, while others simply appreciate the nostalgia and craftsmanship of certain models. However, not all sneakers hold value, and understanding the sneaker market is crucial for determining which pairs are truly worth money.
Is there a market for Sneakers? One aspect of sneaker collecting that many people are unaware of is the potential monetary value of certain shoes. The sneaker market has fluctuated over the years, driven by celebrity endorsements, collaborations, and exclusivity. While some sneakers have seen their prices skyrocket due to hype and demand, others have depreciated over time. Limited releases, vintage models, and collaborations with high-profile brands or athletes often fetch the highest prices.
The Market For Sneakers
The market for sneakers is highly dynamic, with trends shifting rapidly. However, the demand for sneakers is weak unless they are in "Mint Condition" or remain unworn in their original packaging. Worn-out, heavily used, or customized sneakers often hold little value. Platforms such as StockX, GOAT, and specialized sneaker boutiques facilitate sneaker buying and selling, but prices vary based on demand, rarity, and condition.
Factors Affecting Price
Condition is crucial when determining a sneaker’s value. Shoes in pristine, unworn condition with original tags and packaging command higher prices than those with visible wear. Rarity and exclusivity play a significant role—limited-run releases, promotional pairs, and collaborations with major brands like Nike, Adidas, and Jordan tend to be the most valuable. Hype and cultural influence can also affect pricing, as shoes associated with celebrities, athletes, or pop culture moments often increase in value. Demographics also impact the market, with younger buyers driving demand for trendy, exclusive releases.
Buying and Selling Sneakers
For those interested in buying and selling sneakers as a business or side hustle, there are both challenges and opportunities. The biggest risk is market fluctuation—what’s hot today may not be valuable tomorrow. Additionally, counterfeit sneakers are prevalent, making authentication essential. However, those who can spot underpriced gems and understand sneaker culture can make significant profits through reselling platforms, auctions, and private sales.
Who buys Sneakers today?
Sneaker collectors, streetwear enthusiasts, and fashion-forward consumers drive the sneaker resale market. However, as trends shift and the resale industry evolves, demand for specific models may wane. High-end buyers seek rare, limited-edition releases, while everyday sneakerheads focus on affordable yet stylish options. Despite changing trends, the sneaker resale market remains lucrative for those who stay ahead of demand.
Not all sneakers have monetary value, but some pairs are still highly coveted by collectors and resellers. Examples include limited collaborations, vintage Jordan models, and ultra-rare promotional releases.
Top 5 Sneakers to hunt for
1. Air Jordan 1 Retro (1985 Original) – The original Jordan 1 remains one of the most valuable sneakers, often selling for tens of thousands. 2. Nike MAG (Back to the Future Edition) – These futuristic sneakers are highly sought after, with pairs selling for over $50,000. 3. Adidas Yeezy Boost 750 – The first-ever Yeezy release under Adidas remains a top collectible, with values exceeding $5,000. 4. Travis Scott x Nike SB Dunk Low – This hyped collaboration sees resale prices ranging from $2,000 to $4,000. 5. Off-White x Air Jordan 1 – Virgil Abloh’s take on the classic Jordan 1 continues to fetch thousands on the resale market.
Learn More About The Value of your Sneakers
iGuide’s appraisal service is a good way to discover the value of your sneakers. Learn more.
The banjo, a staple of folk, bluegrass, and country music, has long been admired for its distinctive twang and rich musical heritage. From vintage open-back models to high-end resonator banjos, certain instruments have become highly collectible. While some banjos hold significant value, others may not fetch much depending on their condition, brand, and rarity.
Is there a market for Banjos? One aspect of banjo collecting that many people are unaware of is the potential monetary value of certain models. The market for banjos has experienced fluctuations influenced by musical trends, craftsmanship, and brand reputation. Well-known manufacturers like Gibson, Deering, and Vega often hold strong resale value, while lesser-known brands may not attract as much demand.
The Market For Banjos
The market for banjos is highly specialized, catering to musicians, collectors, and enthusiasts. However, the demand for banjos is weak unless they are in "Mint Condition" or have historical significance. Instruments with heavy wear, missing parts, or modifications may struggle to find buyers. Vintage music shops, online marketplaces, and high-end instrument auctions remain the primary venues for trading collectible banjos.
Factors Affecting Price
Condition is crucial when determining a banjo’s value. Instruments in pristine condition with original components will fetch significantly higher prices than those with damage or replacements. Brand and rarity also play a major role—brands such as Gibson, Stelling, and Ome are highly desirable. Materials and craftsmanship impact pricing as well, with hand-carved necks, quality tone rings, and exotic wood construction adding to value. Demographics also influence the market, as older musicians and bluegrass enthusiasts drive demand for vintage models.
Buying and Selling Banjos
For those interested in buying and selling banjos, it’s essential to consider market trends and authentication. Ensuring originality is key, as restored or altered banjos may lose value. Additionally, market shifts can affect resale prices, meaning certain models may appreciate while others depreciate. Knowledgeable buyers can make substantial profits by sourcing rare banjos through auctions, estate sales, and private sellers.
Who buys Banjos today?
Musicians, bluegrass enthusiasts, and collectors drive the demand for quality banjos. However, as older players phase out of the market, the interest in certain vintage models may decline. High-end buyers seek rare and historically significant banjos, while casual musicians focus on playable, well-crafted instruments at affordable prices. Despite fluctuations, the demand for well-made banjos remains steady in the music industry.
Not all banjos have monetary value, but some remain highly sought after. Examples include vintage resonator banjos, limited-run models, and instruments used by famous musicians.
Top 5 Banjos to hunt for
1. Gibson Mastertone (Pre-War Models) – Considered the holy grail of banjos, these can fetch $50,000 or more. 2. Deering Golden Era – A highly regarded bluegrass banjo, often valued at $5,000+. 3. Vega Whyte Laydie – A classic open-back banjo with historical significance, often selling for $3,000+. 4. Stelling Staghorn – A beautifully crafted banjo known for its premium tone and craftsmanship, often priced around $7,000. 5. Bacon & Day Silver Bell – A jazz-era banjo with intricate designs, fetching anywhere from $4,000 to $10,000.
Learn More About The Value of your Banjos
iGuide’s appraisal service is a good way to discover the value of your banjos. Learn more.
Lunt Silversmiths was established in 1901 in Greenfield, Massachusetts as Rogers, Lunt & Bowlen Co, after the failure of the A. F. Towle & Son Co, and began using the Lunt Silversmiths trademark in 1935. It later acquired the assets of the King Silver Co and the Richard Dimes Co. Some pattern names: Alexandra, American Directoire, American Victorian, Belle Meade, Carillon, Charles II, Chased Classic, Chatelaine, Colonial Manor, Colonial Theme, Contrast, Coronet, Counterpoint, Delacourt, Early american-Engraved, Early American-Plain, Early Colonial, Eloquence, English Shell, Festival, Floral Lace, Granado, Lace Point, Madrigal, Mary II, Memory Lane, Mignonette, Modern Classic, Modern Victorian, Monticello, Mount Vernon, Nellie Custis, Pendant of Fruit, Raindrop, Rapallo, Regency, Rondelay, Rose Elegance, Spring Serenade, Starfire, Summer, song, Sweetheart Rose, and William & Mary.
Lionel Trains have been a beloved collectible for generations, representing nostalgia, craftsmanship, and the golden age of model railroads. From vintage steam engines to limited-edition sets, Lionel Trains hold a special place in the hearts of collectors. While some Lionel Trains appreciate significantly in value, others may not be as sought after, making it essential to understand what makes certain models valuable.
Is there a market for Lionel Trains? One aspect of Lionel Train collecting that many people are unaware of is the potential monetary value of certain models. The market for Lionel Trains has experienced fluctuations based on collector interest, rarity, and condition. Older pre-war and post-war Lionel trains, as well as limited-edition releases, tend to hold strong value, whereas mass-produced modern sets may not appreciate as much.
The Market For Lionel Trains
The market for Lionel Trains remains strong, with dedicated collectors, hobbyists, and investors driving demand. However, the demand for Lionel Trains is weak unless they are in "Mint Condition" and include all original packaging and accessories. Sets with missing pieces, damaged paint, or modifications may not fetch high prices. Train shows, online marketplaces, and specialized auction houses serve as primary trading venues for valuable Lionel Trains.
Factors Affecting Price
Condition is crucial when determining a Lionel Train’s value. Trains in mint condition, complete with original boxes, manuals, and accessories, command premium prices. Rarity and era also play key roles—pre-war and post-war models are highly desirable, particularly those in limited production. Historical significance adds value, as special-edition sets and trains with unique features tend to attract collectors. Demographics influence market trends, with older collectors maintaining strong interest in vintage sets.
Buying and Selling Lionel Trains
For those looking to invest in Lionel Trains, understanding the market and authenticity is key. Reproduction parts and altered models can diminish value, making verification essential. Trends in collecting can shift, affecting resale prices. However, savvy collectors who understand rarity and condition can make significant profits through train shows, estate sales, and online marketplaces.
Who buys Lionel Trains today?
Collectors, nostalgia-driven buyers, and model train enthusiasts continue to support the Lionel Train market. However, as older collectors downsize, the interest in certain models may fluctuate. High-end buyers seek rare and pristine-condition trains, while casual hobbyists look for affordable, playable sets. Despite shifting trends, the demand for well-preserved Lionel Trains remains strong.
Not all Lionel Trains have monetary value, but some remain highly sought after. Examples include rare pre-war models, special limited editions, and historically significant releases.
Top 5 Lionel Trains to hunt for
1. Lionel 700E Hudson (Pre-War) – One of the most valuable and detailed steam engines, often selling for $10,000+. 2. Lionel 408E Standard Gauge – A rare early electric locomotive known for its craftsmanship, valued at $5,000+. 3. Lionel Blue Comet Set (Pre-War) – A beautiful and highly desirable passenger train set, often fetching $7,000+. 4. Lionel Girls Train Set (1957) – A rare pink and pastel-colored train set made in limited quantities, valued at over $8,000. 5. Lionel 6464 Boxcars – Certain rare variations of this boxcar series can reach values of $3,000 or more.
Learn More About The Value of your Lionel Trains
iGuide’s appraisal service is a good way to discover the value of your Lionel Trains. Learn more.
The practice of stamping trademarks and stock numbers onto metalware is a historical method that provided information about the composition and origin of items, a system that was notably refined and utilized by the Meriden Britannia Company starting in 1867. This process not only helped in identifying the material from which an item was made but also in determining its manufacturing process and additional features, such as mounts or soldering. This intricate system of identification has played a crucial role in the world of collectibles and antiques, offering insights into the craftsmanship and era of production.
The System of Stamping
The Meriden Britannia Co., a pioneer in the production of metalware, developed a nuanced system for marking their products. They introduced the use of a cipher (a symbol or series of symbols) preceding a stock number on their nickel silver and silver-soldered holloware. By 1893, this system was further elaborated to differentiate items with white metal mounts by incorporating two ciphers as part of the stock number. For instance, a waiter featuring white metal mounts might bear the stamp "00256," instantly indicating its material composition and design features to those familiar with the coding system.
Implications and Importance
This method of stamping trademarks and stock numbers was not merely an internal tracking tool; it served as a valuable means of communication with consumers and collectors. It allowed for immediate recognition of the material quality and the specific features of holloware items, facilitating informed purchasing decisions. Furthermore, for historians and collectors, these marks provide essential clues for dating pieces, understanding their provenance, and assessing their authenticity.
Legacy and Modern Relevance
The legacy of this detailed stamping system extends beyond the operational history of the Meriden Britannia Company. Today, it aids collectors and experts in identifying and authenticating antique metalware, enriching our understanding of historical manufacturing techniques and aesthetic preferences. The practice underscores the importance of meticulous craftsmanship and the foresight in establishing standards that enhance the value and legacy of metalware collections. As such, the tradition of stamping trademarks and stock numbers remains a fascinating aspect of metalware production, bridging the past with the present in the realm of decorative arts.
Vintage board games have entertained families and friends for generations. From strategic war games to classic family-friendly titles, these games serve as a nostalgic reminder of past eras. Many vintage board games are not only collectible but also valuable, depending on their condition and rarity. While board game collecting remains a popular hobby, the market for vintage board games has shifted over time, with certain editions commanding high prices while others hold little to no value.
Is there a market for Vintage Board Games? One aspect of vintage board game collecting that many people are unaware of is the potential monetary value of certain games. The market for vintage board games has fluctuated over the years, driven by nostalgia, pop culture trends, and the rarity of complete, well-preserved sets. Games that were produced in limited runs or feature beloved themes often attract serious collectors, while mass-produced titles in poor condition may struggle to find buyers.
The Market For Vintage Board Games
The market for vintage board games is selective, with demand focused on rare, sought-after editions. However, the demand for vintage board games is weak unless they are in "Mint Condition" and include all original components. Incomplete or damaged games typically hold little to no value. Auction sites, specialty stores, and collector communities remain the primary avenues for buying and selling vintage board games, but interest levels vary depending on the title and condition.
Factors Affecting Price
Condition is crucial when determining a board game’s value. A game in pristine, unused condition with its original packaging intact will command higher prices than one with missing or damaged pieces. Rarity and demand also play a key role—limited edition games, discontinued titles, and those with unique gameplay mechanics tend to attract more interest. Pop culture influence can further drive prices, especially for games tied to nostalgic franchises. Demographics also affect value, as older generations look to reclaim childhood memories while younger audiences explore retro gaming trends.
Buying and Selling Vintage Board Games
For those looking to buy and sell vintage board games, there are both risks and rewards to consider. Properly assessing value is a challenge, as not all old board games are rare or valuable. Additionally, verifying completeness and authenticity is crucial when purchasing. However, knowledgeable buyers can make significant profits by sourcing underpriced gems and selling them to serious collectors. As with any collectible market, trends can change, affecting resale values.
Who buys Vintage Board Games today?
Collectors, nostalgia-driven buyers, and specialty retailers still drive the vintage board game market. However, as older collectors phase out of the hobby, demand may decrease in the coming years. Certain board game enthusiasts and pop culture collectors continue to seek out high-value items, but casual buyers may be less willing to pay premium prices. Despite these shifts, a niche market remains for rare and desirable games.
Not all vintage board games have monetary value, but some remain highly sought after. Examples include first editions, limited runs, and games tied to popular franchises.
Top 5 Vintage Board Games to hunt for
1. 3M Bookshelf Games – These mid-century strategy games remain popular among collectors, with rare editions fetching hundreds of dollars. 2. Fireball Island (1986) – This adventurous board game with interactive components can be worth over $500 if complete and in excellent condition. 3. Dark Tower (1981) – Due to its unique electronic tower, this game can sell for $1,000 or more in working condition. 4. Monopoly (Early Editions) – Pre-1950s versions of Monopoly, particularly those with unique packaging, can fetch thousands of dollars. 5. HeroQuest (1989) – This dungeon-crawling board game remains in high demand, with sealed copies reaching over $1,500.
Learn More About The Value of your Vintage Board Games
iGuide’s appraisal service is a good way to discover the value of your vintage board games. Learn more.
If you're looking to sell your platinum coins or platinum jewelry, understanding how to determine their value is crucial. Buyers rely on specific information to make fair offers. Here's a quick guide to valuing your platinum and providing buyers with the details they need.
Platinum Coins
Platinum coins are bullion, which means their value is based solely on their platinum content, not rarity or collector value. To accurately assess their worth, you'll need to provide buyers with the following key details:
Country of Origin For example, Canada or the United States.
Denomination For instance, $100 or $50.
Weight If known, such as 1 troy ounce.
Purity For example, "999 fine" or "999.5 fine."
By supplying these details, buyers can quickly calculate the market value of your platinum coins.
Platinum Rings and Jewelry
When it comes to platinum jewelry, bullion buyers are interested in the metal itself rather than any gemstones. If you have platinum jewelry with gemstones such as diamonds or emeralds, you should not sell these for only their bullion value.
To get the best offer for your platinum, focus on these factors:
Check the Stamping
The purity of platinum jewelry is typically stamped on the piece. This stamp provides valuable information to buyers. Common markings include:
95% Platinum Stamped as "Platinum," "950 Plat," or "950 Pt."
90% Platinum Stamped as "900 Plat" or "900 Pt."
85% Pure Platinum Stamped as "850 Plat" or "850 Pt."
If the jewelry contains at least 50% pure platinum and 95% platinum group metals (e.g., palladium, iridium), it may be stamped with both the platinum and alloy content, such as "600 Plat 350 Irid." Jewelry with less than 50% platinum cannot legally use the word "platinum" in its marking.
Weigh the Piece
Weight is a critical factor in determining value. If possible, weigh your jewelry using a kitchen scales grams setting. An affordable digital gram scale (available at Walmart or online retailers) can help. Be sure to choose a scale that can handle weights up to at least 50 grams.
Provide Photos
While optional, clear photos of your platinum pieces can assist buyers in evaluating their condition and making a more accurate offer.
Why This Information Matters
Providing accurate and detailed information about your platinum coins or jewelry helps buyers make fair and competitive offers. Without essential details like weight, purity, or markings, buyers may hesitate to make a bid or offer less than your piece is worth.
Whether you're selling bullion coins or platinum rings, preparation is key. Answer buyers’ questions thoroughly and provide the generally accepted details they need to assess the value. This approach ensures you receive the best possible offers for your platinum items.
Remember the rules:
Rule #1. If it ain't stamped STERLING or 925, it ain't STERLING
Rule #2. Silverware sets will have partial sterling pieces. If the forks are stamped STERLING, the other pieces such as dinner knives in the same set are STERLING HANDLES, even if they are not marked. You pay for 15 grams of sterling for dinner knives, even if they weigh 30 grams, because they are mostly stainless steel blades.
Rule #3. MOST IMPORTANT RULE: if you are not CERTAIN, DON'T BUY IT!
iGuide.net is a platform dedicated to providing current market values and pricing information for tangible assets. The site is known for its database that tracks real-time auction results, sales data, and other relevant market information to give users accurate and up-to-date pricing for a wide range of items.
Key Features of iGuide.net:
1. Pricing Guides:
iGuide offers pricing guides for different types of collectibles, including coins, gold, silver, diamonds, comics, toys, trading cards, and more. The prices are based on real sales data, making them reliable for collectors and sellers.
2. Marketplace Analysis:
iGuide provides insights into the marketplace, helping users understand trends and how values change over time.
3. Searchable Database:
Users can search for specific items to find their current market value, which can be very helpful for those looking to buy, sell, or appraise items.
4. Auction Tracking:
iGuide.net tracks auction results from various sources to provide users with the most accurate pricing based on recent sales.
5. Collecting Tools:
The site also offers tools and resources to help collectors manage and organize their collections.
iGuide positions itself as an authoritative source of truth for collectible pricing, focusing on accuracy and data-driven valuations.
Stamp collecting, also known as philately, has been a beloved hobby for over a century. Collectors have sought out rare and unique stamps, often preserving them in albums or displaying them as works of art. Historically, some stamps have fetched astronomical sums at auction, driving interest in the field. However, in today's world, the hobby of stamp collecting has seen a decline. Younger generations have shown less interest in stamps, leading to a dwindling number of dedicated collectors. While there are still enthusiasts, the market for stamp collections is not as robust as it once was.
Is there a market for Stamp collections? One aspect of stamp collecting that many people are unaware of is the potential monetary value of some stamps. The market for stamps has fluctuated over time, with periods of high demand followed by steep declines. During the early to mid-20th century, stamp collecting was incredibly popular, and rare stamps commanded high prices. However, as digital communication replaced traditional mail, interest in stamps decreased. Today, only a small segment of collectors actively seeks out valuable stamps, and prices have adjusted accordingly.
The Market For Stamp collections
The stamp market is highly specialized, with certain rare stamps still holding significant value. However, for the most part, the demand for stamp collections is weak unless they are in "Mint Never Hinged (MNH)" condition. Collectors are selective, and heavily used or damaged stamps often have no value at all. Auction houses, online marketplaces, and private sales still see activity, but the number of buyers has dwindled compared to previous decades.
Factors Affecting Price
Condition is crucial when determining a stamp's value. Pristine, well-preserved stamps in original packaging fetch the highest prices, while damaged or heavily used stamps are virtually worthless. Supply and demand also play a role. If a particular stamp was produced in high numbers, its value will be lower unless unique characteristics make it desirable. Demographics influence the market as well—older collectors who have spent decades acquiring stamps may be looking to sell, while fewer young buyers are entering the market.
Buying and Selling Stamp collections
For those interested in making a side gig out of buying and selling stamps, there are risks and rewards to consider. The biggest challenge is accurately assessing value—what might seem like a valuable stamp could be a common issue worth little. Additionally, market trends shift, meaning that what sells well today might lose value in the future. On the positive side, rare finds can lead to significant profits for knowledgeable collectors.
Who buys Stamp collections today?
Dealers and auction houses still play a role in the stamp-collecting market, but their numbers are declining. Many long-time dealers are aging out of the industry, and there are fewer new buyers replacing them. This trend could lead to further price declines in the future. Some collectors remain passionate, but the market is not as strong as it once was. Not all stamp collections have monetary value, but some are still highly sought after. Examples of valuable stamps include rare misprints, early 19th-century issues, and commemorative releases in pristine condition.
Top 5 Stamp collections to hunt for
1. The British Guiana 1c Magenta – The world’s most valuable stamp, last sold for over $8 million. 2. The Treskilling Yellow – A rare Swedish stamp valued at millions due to a color error. 3. The Inverted Jenny – A famous U.S. misprint featuring an upside-down airplane, worth around $1.5 million. 4. The Penny Black – The world’s first adhesive postage stamp, valued at thousands in mint condition. 5. The Hawaiian Missionaries – Early Hawaiian stamps that can be worth hundreds of thousands if well preserved.
Learn More About The Value of your Stamp collections
iGuide’s appraisal service is a good way to discover the value of your stamp collections. Learn more.
Early RMK's (Pre-War): Early Randall Made Knives, crafted before World War II, bore a striking resemblance to William (Bill) Scagel knives. They frequently featured leather and brass spacers near the hilt and were often finished with 'crown' stag handles, reflecting a high level of craftsmanship. 1939 Randall w/ the Scagel-style spacers
By the End of 1942: WD 'Bo' Randall had largely standardized the handle types for his knives, favoring plain stag, stacked leather, or wood handles. This period marked the beginning of more uniform production methods.
Stag Handles
Pre-1958: Stag handles are among the easiest to date. Early stag handle knives produced prior to 1958 utilized brass pins for securing the handle. Initially, two pins were used, but by 1946, this was reduced to one pin. As better epoxies became available, the use of pins was phased out entirely, with the exception of some special order knives into the early 1960s. Single-pin and double-pinned stag fighters
Until Around 1973: A seven-spacer stack was commonly used at the hilt end on most stag knives. Around 1973, Gary Randall decided to standardize to a five-spacer configuration for all regular production models, including those with stag and wood handles.
Stacked Leather Handles
1942-1945: Early stacked leather handles were more cylindrical and tapered down on both the hilt and pommel ends. These handles were also thicker than the washers used today. 1943 Fighter with thicker, cylindrical Leather Washers
Late 1945: The thinner, more oblong leather handles we recognize today first appeared. This period also saw the introduction of the thong hole through the Duraluminum buttcap. Two versions of stacked leather handles were produced in 1945, and these versions resurfaced during the Korean Conflict in 1950. It's believed that sales plummeted post-WWII, leaving many knives unsold until the 1950s.
By 1953: The thinner, tapered style of stacked leather handles had become the norm for virtually all models.
Tenite & Micarta Handles
1954: Tenite handles made their debut with the introduction of the RMK Model #14 'Attack' and Model #15 'Airman' knives. The first Tenite handles were off-white, but by 1955, the more common green Tenite was in use. All production Tenite models featured two exposed screws and an extended tang with a thong hole. A few 'transition' knives were made during the change to Micarta handles, including some Model #16 'Diver's Knife' versions. Model 14 White Tenite Handle
1960: Gray Micarta was introduced for the Model #17 'Astro'. By late 1963, the extended tang had been removed from RMK Models #14, #15, and #16, and a chocolate brown Micarta was used. These transition knives initially had exposed screws, but this was soon changed to plugged handles. By early 1966, screws were no longer needed, as epoxies secured the handle.
By 1967: Black Micarta became the standard. Some Tenite models were rehandled with Micarta as they returned to RMK for repair, since Tenite handles did not hold up well to the moisture and heat of Vietnam, often warping and breaking. Modern Black Micarta handles
Late 1968: Originally, Micarta handle knives featured an unlined, chamfered 3/16" thong hole. In late 1968, a brass ferrule was introduced as a special order item, and by late 1972, it became a standard feature in normal production. Be cautious of those removing the ferrule to make their knives appear older.
Hollow Handle
1963: The Model #18 'Survival Knife', known for its hollow handle, was introduced. The original design utilized modified blades from Models #14 and #15 and featured a rubber 'crutch tip' butt cap and a pinched tube handle, which aligned with the hilt widths of Models #14 and #15. Randall Model 18 Crutch Tip
By 1965: The hilt of the Model #18 was widened, eliminating the need for a severe pinch. Rubber crutch tips were used until 1972, after which a threaded brass end cap was introduced.
The evolution of Randall Made Knives' handles reflects a rich history of innovation and adaptation to both materials and user needs. Understanding these historical developments not only enriches our appreciation for these knives but also helps collectors and enthusiasts accurately date and value their pieces. Whether you're a seasoned collector or a new enthusiast, the history of RMK handles offers fascinating insights into the legacy of one of America's most iconic knife makers.
History of Gennett Records
Gennett is best remembered for the wealth of early jazz talent recorded on the label, including sessions by Jelly Roll Morton, Bix Beiderbecke, The New Orleans Rhythm Kings, "King" Joe Oliver's band with young Louis Armstrong, Hoagy Carmichael, Duke Ellington, The Red Onion Jazz Babies,The State Street Ramblers, Zach Whyte and his Chocolate Beau Brummels, Alphonse Trent and his Orchestra and many others. Gennett also recorded early blues artists such as Thomas A. Dorsey, Sam Collins, Jaybird Coleman, and Big Boy Cleveland, and early "hillbilly" or country music performers such as Vernon Dalhart, Bradley Kincaid, Ernest Stoneman, Fiddlin' Doc Roberts, and Gene Autry. Many early religious recordings were made by Homer Rodeheaver, early shape note singers and others.
From 1925 to 1934, Gennett released recordings by hundreds of "old-time music" artists, precursors to country music, including such artists as Doc Roberts and Gene Autry. By the late 1920s, Gennett was pressing records for more than 25 labels worldwide, including budget disks for Sears, Roebuck's catalog. In 1926, Fred Gennett created Champion Records as a budget label for tunes previously released on Gennett.
The Gennett Company was hit severely by the Great Depression in 1930, and cut back on record recording and production until it was halted altogether in 1934. At this time the only product Gennett Records produced under its own name was a series of recorded sound effects for use by radio stations. In 1935 the Starr Piano Company sold some Gennett masters, and the Gennett and Champion trademarks to Decca Records. Jack Kapp of Decca was primarily interested in some jazz, blues and old time music items in the Gennett catalog which he thought would add depth to the selections offered by the newly organized Decca company. Kapp also attempted to revive the Gennett and Champion labels between 1935 and 1937 as specialists in bargain pressings of race and old-time music with but little success.
Most Valuable Blues and Jazz Artists on the Gennett Label
Josephine Beatty on Gennett 78 RPM King Oliver on Gennett 78 RPM Jelly Roll Morton on Gennett 78 RPM Red Onion Jazz Babies on Gennett 78 RPM Baby Bonnie on Gennett 78 RPM Walter Coon on Gennett 78 RPM Mae Glover on Gennett 78 RPM Thomas Dorsey on Gennett 78 RPM
Top BuyerJon Warren of 2ndMarkets.com is one of the top buyers of rare blues records. He can be reached at 1-423-320-1521 or by visiting his website (click the link above).
The Custom Barracuda is a Hot Wheels casting designed by Harry Bradley. It made its debut in 1968 as part of the first sixteen Hot Wheels ever, often referred to as the 'Sweet Sixteen'. The casting is based on the real-life 1967 Plymouth Barracuda.
Here are some key details about the Custom Barracuda:
Manufacturing and Differences:
It was manufactured in 1968 and 1969 at both the USA and Hong Kong factories.
USA-built cars have clear glass, while Hong Kong (HK) cars have blue-tinted glass.
USA Barracudas feature a detailed interior with a dashboard and a molded-in steering wheel. In contrast, HK cars have a flat piece of plastic representing the dashboard and a separate black steering wheel.
USA cars could be found with a white or dark brown interior, while Hong Kong cars had various interior colors, including white, brownish/gray, dark brown, silver, and purple. Purple interiors were rare and usually found in matching purple exterior cars, but they occasionally appeared in Copper and Aqua cars.
Design Features:
The Custom Barracuda has an opening hood that reveals a detailed engine.
USA cars have shorter 'power bulges' (hood scoops) and a thinner cowl compared to their Hong Kong counterparts.
Some early HK-manufactured cars had deeper power bulges, particularly on Aqua and Purple cars.
Hong Kong cars have a detailed base with four square holes to view the Bent Axle Suspension, which are absent from USA-built vehicles.
The Cattaraugus Cutlery Company stamped nearly all of their knives with pattern numbers in a unique numbering system. They may have also denoted different blades and colors of handles with letter abbreviations, but this is rare.
The first figure of the pattern number indicates the number of blades (1 means one blade, etc.).
The second figure indicates the number and type of bolsters:
0 = no bolsters
1 = front bolster only
2 = front and rear bolsters
3 -- tip style bolsters
5 = diagonal (slant) bolsters
The last figure of the pattern number denotes the type of handle material used:
1 = white fiberoid
2 = french pearl
3 = genuine mother of pearl
4 = celluloid
5 = genuine stag
6 = ebony
7 = concobola
8 = white bone
9 = stag bone
The remaining numbers (3rd and 4th in most cases) are the pattern number.
Beware: after Cattaraugus went out of business, someone bought the remaining parts and assembled them, resulting in low quality, crude examples. Also, the stamping on these later knives is very poor. Do not confuse these later knives with original manufacture.
When it comes to identifying sterling silver silverware, it's important to know a few key features that distinguish it from silver-plated or stainless steel flatware.
Here's a straightforward guide to help you determine if your silverware is indeed sterling silver.
Look for the word STERLING or 925
The simplest and most reliable way to identify sterling silver is to look for the sterling silver stamp or hallmark. In the United States, genuine sterling silver will have the word "Sterling" or the number "925" stamped somewhere on the piece, usually on the backside of the handle. The word STERLING guarantees that the piece is made of 100% solid sterling silver. This hallmark is a standard indicator of sterling silver's purity. Wondering why your dinner knives from the same set don't have the hallmark? It's because they have stainless steel blades and are therefore not 100% solid sterling silver.
As always, there are exceptions to the rule. European sterling silverware and pieces made before 1900 may not have the STERLING stamp. Instead, they may have the so-called LION PASSANT hallmark, which is a tiny symbol of a lion with one paw held up.
99 out of 100 times, though, the word STERLING will be stamped on the back of the handles of your silverware if they are indeed sterling.
ES or A1 stamping?
If your pieces have ES or A1 stamped on the back that means they are electroplated silver, not sterling.
Perform the Magnet Test
Sterling silver is not magnetic. You can perform a simple test using a strong magnet. If your silverware is attracted to the magnet, it's likely made of a nickel or other magnetic metal base, which means it's not sterling silver.
Check the Weight and Sound
Sterling silver typically has a heavier feel compared to silver-plated items due to its higher density. Gently tapping your silverware can also give you a clue; sterling silver will emit a high-pitched, resonant sound, while non-sterling items sound duller.
Consider Professional Appraisal
If you're still uncertain about the composition of your silverware, consider taking it to a professional appraiser. They have the tools and expertise to conduct more sophisticated tests that can definitively determine if your silverware is sterling silver.
By using these tips, you can confidently identify whether your silverware is authentic sterling silver, adding both value and elegance to your dining experience.
Remember, taking the time to properly assess your silverware can reveal its true worth and help you make informed decisions about its care and potential resale.
To narrow down the production range of a Randall Made Knife (RMK), examining the types of snaps on the sheaths and the sharpening stones in the leather pouches are two effective methods. These details provide valuable clues for accurately dating the knives and understanding their historical context. By closely analyzing these components, collectors and enthusiasts can gain deeper insights into the history and evolution of these iconic knives.
Dating by Snaps on Sheaths
1942-1945: Brass and plain metal snaps were originally used on most of the Moore, Southern, and Heiser sheaths during WWII RMK production knives. Many of the snaps were enameled in black or burgundy colors.
1943 HH Heiser Model 1 Sheath
Late 1943-1945: HH Heiser used logo snaps, though plain snaps were more common.
1945: Heiser and Moore began using the seldom-seen red lucite Randall logo snaps. Sporadic use of these snaps was discontinued in 1949.
1946-1947: Transition Heiser sheaths with red and brown snaps were likely made during this period.
1946-Late 1964: The highly sought "brown button" RMK logo snaps were used by H.H. Heiser and then by Maurice Johnson, who used up the remaining stock by late 1965.
RMK “Brown Button’ Logo Snap
1954-1964: The famous "Lift the Dot" canteen snap Heiser "C" model sheaths were produced. Initially, these sheaths had seven large silver rivets, but smaller rivets were eventually used by both Heiser and Johnson. These sheaths were phased out by the end of 1973.
‘Lift the Dot’ canteen snap
1962-1965: The early Johnson brown buttons and the transition brown button with smooth button sheaths were produced. The "baby dot" nickel-plated smooth snaps, a stronger harness strap, were first used by Johnson in early 1963 and fully integrated into his sheath-making process by 1964.
1965: Heiser's production was discontinued, and Maurice Johnson took over as RMK's sole sheath maker. He continued using "baby dot" snaps throughout his 18-year relationship with RMK. His son Johnny Johnson continued this practice when he took over the family business in 1982. He used the smooth snaps until his untimely death in December of 1991.
Early 1970s Maurice Johnson Model C Smooth Snaps
Late 1986-1995: The first "baby dot" or smooth button sheaths from Sullivan's were produced. Some Sullivan transition sheaths having one smooth and one logo snap were produced from 1995-1996. The RMK logo snaps on the sheaths, as seen today, were first used in 1995.
Dating by Sharpening Stone
This method is considered less reliable due to the ease with which stones can be lost or replaced.
Examples of Sharpening Stones over the years
1942-1946: The earliest stones used by Randall were a variant of a thin greenish-gray stone. Some of these were marked "BARBORUNDUM BRAND NO. 71 DRAFTSMAN'S STONE."
1946-1954: This period saw the introduction of the Soft Arkansas or Lily White Washita Stone. Most of these early white stones were made by Norton Abrasives.
Early 1950s: Included some grayish-marbled stones and reddish-brown stones with a fish hook sharpening groove.
Mid 1954-Early 1970s: The common two-part combination gray Crystolon stone was introduced. The earliest versions were marked "Made in the U.S.of A." with later ones marked "Made in the U.S.A." These two-part stones are commonly seen configured with either blue ink on the light side or yellow ink on the dark side.
1969-1972: During the Vietnam Era, RMK used a Soft Arkansas/Washita Stone (white stone) supplied by A.G. Russell.
Early 1970s: A solid gray, medium grit Crystolon stone was used briefly before being replaced by the Norton "Bear Brand" SP-13 Stone from 1973-1975.
Late 1975: The orange "Fine India" stone was introduced and is still in use today.
Understanding these details about the sharpening stones and sheath snaps can significantly aid collectors and enthusiasts in accurately dating their Randall Made Knives, providing a richer context to their historical value. It's important to understand that "Bo" Randall did not waste materials. As a result, products can appear across multiple manufacturing years, even after a transition. They used what they had on hand, and sometimes new materials would get mixed with old ones.
Wondering how much your Zippo lighter is worth? You've come to the right place. An iGuide appraisal gives you the true price of your Zippo lighter so you can buy or sell with confidence. Internet research is hard and confusing. Not for our experts. We do the hard work so you don't have to. Arm yourself with pricing knowledge. Become an instant expert.
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No subscription required. You can create a free account if you wish, but it's optional. You can buy appraisal credits to save money, but again, it's not required. Our goal is to make it as simple and friction free as possible to price your Zippo lighters.
Help us help you
The more details you provide, the better your appraisal will be. You'll have the opportunity to give a brief description, a deep description, and shoot or upload photos.
Brief In your brief description include details such as year made (if known) catalog number (if known) series name (example: John Wayne) name (example: Smokin Joe's Racing) bottom text The text on the bottom of the lighter is very important... like D (LOGO) XV or PAT 2614578. USA.
Full Description Here's where you go into the full story. Describe the condition, whether it is like new or used. Tell us what you know about the item...age, where obtained, is it part of a larger collection or a single item? You're not limited by the size of the input box, it expands as you type. So tell us all you know about your item.
While your brief and full descriptions are vital, photos are crucial. Be sure to include at least one photo of the bottom of the lighter. Includes shots of the front and back too.
Good, well lit, clearly-focused photos improve your appraisal result and help us have a better idea of what you have. Do a good job so we can do a good job.
Old clocks have fascinated collectors and enthusiasts for centuries. From intricate mantel clocks to grandiose grandfather clocks, these timepieces are more than just functional objects; they are works of art, engineering marvels, and historical artifacts. Clockmaking has a rich history, with renowned craftsmen producing exceptional pieces that continue to intrigue people today. While the hobby of clock collecting still exists, the market for old clocks has experienced fluctuations over the years. Some rare and high-quality pieces remain valuable, but mass-produced or damaged clocks may hold little to no worth.
Is there a market for Old Clocks? One aspect of old clock collecting that many people are unaware of is the potential monetary value of certain timepieces. The market for antique and vintage clocks has seen both peaks and declines, influenced by changing tastes and modern technology. In past decades, beautifully crafted mechanical clocks were in high demand, but as digital timekeeping became the norm, fewer people sought out traditional clocks. However, well-preserved, rare, and historically significant clocks can still command impressive prices today.
The Market For Old Clocks
The market for old clocks is selective, with serious collectors and antique dealers driving demand. However, the demand for old clocks is weak unless they are in "Mint Condition" or have unique historical significance. Clocks that require extensive restoration or have missing components often struggle to find buyers. Online auctions, estate sales, and specialty dealers remain the primary venues for trading old clocks, but the overall pool of buyers has diminished compared to past decades.
Factors Affecting Price
Condition is crucial when determining an old clock's value. A timepiece in pristine, fully operational condition will fetch a significantly higher price than one with broken or missing parts. Rarity and brand also play an essential role—certain brands, such as Patek Philippe or Seth Thomas, are more sought after than generic or mass-produced models. Provenance can add value as well; clocks with documented historical significance or unique features tend to attract more interest. Demographics and shifting collecting trends also influence price trends in the clock-collecting market.
Buying and Selling Old Clocks
For those interested in making a side gig out of buying and selling old clocks, it’s important to consider both the risks and rewards. The biggest challenge is accurately assessing value, as not all old clocks are worth a fortune. Restoration costs can also cut into profits, and the market is not as liquid as other collectible categories. On the upside, knowledgeable buyers who can spot undervalued treasures may still find opportunities for significant gains.
Who buys Old Clocks today?
Antique dealers, collectors, and restoration specialists still support the marketplace for old clocks. However, with fewer young collectors entering the hobby, the market could experience further declines in the future. Many seasoned collectors are aging out of the hobby, and if demand continues to decrease, prices may follow suit. That said, certain niche markets remain strong, particularly for high-end and historically significant clocks.
Not all old clocks have monetary value, but some are still highly sought after by collectors. Examples of valuable old clocks include limited-production models, high-end brands, and those with intricate mechanical movements.
Top 5 Old Clocks to hunt for
1. Atmos Clocks by Jaeger-LeCoultre – These self-winding clocks are engineering marvels and can fetch thousands of dollars. 2. Patek Philippe Desk Clocks – Highly desirable due to their brand reputation and craftsmanship, often valued at tens of thousands. 3. Seth Thomas Regulator Clocks – Early regulator clocks can be worth several thousand dollars in good condition. 4. Ansonia Crystal Regulator Clocks – Elegant designs and quality mechanisms make these highly collectible, with values ranging from hundreds to thousands. 5. Howard Miller Grandfather Clocks – High-quality, well-maintained examples can sell for thousands depending on the model and age.
Learn More About The Value of your Old Clocks
iGuide’s appraisal service is a good way to discover the value of your old clocks. Learn more.
Mad magazines from the 1950s and 1960s can indeed be valuable, especially if they are in like new condition. The value of these magazines varies widely depending on factors such as rarity, condition, and specific issues. For example, the first issue of Mad as a comic book and the first issue of the magazine format are particularly valuable. Special issues, complete collections, and autographed copies also tend to have higher value.
History of Mad Magazine
Mad Magazine is an American satirical magazine that began as a comic book published by EC (Entertaining Comics) in August 1952. It was founded by editor Harvey Kurtzman and publisher William Gaines. The magazine transitioned from a comic book to a black-and-white magazine format in 1955.
Mad quickly became one of the best-selling humor magazines in the United States, known for its irreverent and anti-establishment humor. It inspired numerous imitators and became a significant part of American pop culture. The magazine is famous for its mascot, Alfred E. Neuman, and popular features like Spy vs. Spy.
Mad Magazine's influence extended beyond its pages, impacting various forms of entertainment and media. It developed a readership of over 2,000,000 in the 1970s and became known for its brilliant satirical pieces that parodied other comics, newspaper comic strips, films, and other parts of entertainment culture.
If you have any early Mad Magazines, especially from the 1950s and 1960s, they could be valuable collectibles. A volume 1 #1 from 1952 in mint condition is worth thousands of dollars. It's worth getting them appraised to determine their exact value.
Some classic Mad covers
Mad Magazine has had many iconic covers over the years. Here are some of the most memorable ones:
Issue #1 (1952): The very first issue of Mad Magazine, which was originally a comic book, is highly sought after by collectors.
Issue #21 (1955): This issue marked the transition from a comic book to a magazine format. It features Alfred E. Neuman on the cover for the first time.
Issue #30 (1956): Known for its parody of the movie “King Kong,” this cover is a classic example of Mad’s satirical style.
Issue #60 (1961): This cover features Alfred E. Neuman as a presidential candidate with the slogan “What – Me Worry?” It became one of the most iconic images associated with Mad Magazine.
Issue #166 (1974): This cover parodies the movie “Jaws” and is one of the most recognizable covers from the 1970s.
Issue #233 (1982): Featuring a parody of the movie “E.T. the Extra-Terrestrial,” this cover is a favorite among fans of both the magazine and the film.
Issue #350 (1996): This cover celebrates Mad Magazine’s 350th issue with a collage of past covers, showcasing the magazine’s long history.
Issue #400 (2000): This milestone issue features Alfred E. Neuman in a futuristic setting, celebrating the magazine’s longevity.
If you have what you think may be a rare magazine, it would be wise to get a free iGuide Appraisal Report
Noritake Tahoe fine china can be worth something, especially if it is in like new (A+) condition and part of a complete set. The bad news is the slightest chip, flake, ding or crack renders a piece worthless. Here are some key points:
On average, regular Noritake china pieces can retail for between $2 – $8 per piece.
A complete set of Noritake Tahoe fine china, including 12 dinner plates, 12 salad plates, 12 bread and butter plates, 12 cups, 12 saucers, a sugar bowl, a creamer, an oval platter, an oval serving bowl, and a gravy boat with an attached saucer, can be valued at around $940.
The value of Noritake china can vary based on its condition, rarity, and demand. Researching current market values on online auction sites or consulting with an antiques dealer or appraiser can give you a better idea of what your specific pieces are worth.
If you have a specific set or pieces, it might be worth getting them appraised.
Recommended
(1) How Much Is My Noritake China Worth (One rare Set Sold For $16,250) https://www.vipartfair.org/noritake-china-value/.
(2) A Guide to Estimating the Value of Your Noritake China. https://www.ask.com/culture/guide-estimating-value-noritake-china.
(3) 15 Most Valuable Noritake China Patterns: Complete Value Guide. https://www.txantiquemall.com/noritake-china-value/.
(4) Guide to Noritake China Value and Patterns - Invaluable.com. https://www.invaluable.com/blog/noritake-china-value/.
In Conclusion
If you have any early Noritake china, especially from the early years, it could be valuable.
When it comes to collectible knives, J.A. Henckels is a legendary name that represents centuries of craftsmanship. While the brand is widely known today for its premium kitchen cutlery under the Zwilling (Twin) brand, many collectors may not realize the company’s storied history with pocket knives. Understanding the evolution of Henckels pocket knives, especially through tang stamp variations, is crucial for collectors seeking to appraise or date their pieces accurately.
Tang Stamps and Early Production
Most of the oldest Henckels knives bear only the iconic Zwilling symbol (depicting the Gemini twins) without any accompanying text. It wasn’t until the 1960s that tang stamps began to include “Germany” and later, “Stainless,” reflecting the modern era of production.
1895-1905 Tangs Stamps
There are no exact cut-off years for each style of tang stamp, but a general guideline is that knives without a Boker or Henckels pattern number likely date from the 1960s or 1970s.
Collectors should also be aware of a common misconception regarding the red backdrop logo. This emblem is usually associated with kitchen knives, which Zwilling J.A. Henckels continues to produce and market globally.
Henckels’ Continued Production of Pocket Knives Post-1960s
A persistent myth in the collector community is that Henckels ceased producing pocket knives in the 1960s. In reality, while there was a significant change in the brand's U.S. representation when their partnership with Iwersen & Albrecht ended around 1960, Henckels did not discontinue pocket knife production. Instead, they scaled down their offerings.
By 1975, however, market conditions and dwindling profits led to a pivotal shift. That year marked the end of in-house production of pocket knives, and the manufacturing responsibility was handed over to Boker. From 1975 onward, Boker-made pocket knives carried the Henckels name, although these knives were based on existing Boker patterns. While some models resembled earlier Henckels designs, the construction details were entirely different. Despite rumors to the contrary, Boker did not manufacture any Henckels pocket knives during the 1960s.
Henckel Tang Stamp Dating Chart
The Rise of Kitchen Cutlery and Henckels International
Although pocket knife production dwindled by the mid-1970s, Henckels found success in focusing on kitchen cutlery. This pivot proved to be highly profitable, establishing Henckels as a leader in culinary tools—a reputation it still holds today.
In the 1990s, Henckels launched the Henckels International brand to cater to a broader, more budget-conscious market. However, the original Zwilling J.A. Henckels line continues to be synonymous with premium quality and traditional craftsmanship.
Conclusion: What Collectors Should Know
Recognizing the tang stamps, understanding the brand’s production timeline, and identifying original models can significantly impact a knife’s value. Whether you’re appraising a knife for resale or adding to your personal collection, knowing these key historical details helps ensure informed decisions.
From the mid-1960s to the late 1980s, The Franklin Mint issued limited edition coin and ingot sets made of sterling silver, bronze, pewter, and sometimes gold-plated sterling silver. The sets were sold using a subscription model, where each month the subscriber would receive one or two coins to add to their set. At the end of the subscription period, the collection would be complete. The sets were also sold as a complete set, without the need to subscribe.
Today, with the value of silver and gold having reached more or less the same inflation-adjusted value they had in the late 1970s, collectors are wanting to learn the value of these sets. Herewith, we provide a list of the top 10 most valuable Franklin Mint silver sets. Word of warning: these sets have value only when they are made of sterling silver or gold-plated sterling silver. Often, an "economy priced" set was issued made of bronze or pewter, and these versions have very little if any value.
1. The Franklin Mint Presidential Ingot Collection, 5000 Grains Edition
According to our database of Franklin Mint sets, this set of 36 sterling silver ingots is the most valuable of all the silver sets issued by The Franklin Mint. A 2500 grain set and a one ounce set were also produced in sterling silver. You can check the value of this set in our
FRANKLIN MINT PRICE GUIDE.
2. The Franklin Mint History of USA Medals Collection
Each of these sterling silver medals is 45 millimeters in diameter (about 2 inches). The complete set is 200 medals. This series of 200 medals provides a comprehensive history of the U.S. since the Declaration of Independence in 1776. Each medal recalls a different year by depicting the 'event of the year' selected from those listed on the reverse. The set was housed in a large wooden box with sliding shelves for the medals, 20 medals per shelf.
3. The Franklin Mint 100 Greatest Masterpieces Collection
This set of 100 medals was produced in a regular sterling silver edition and also a gold-plated sterling silver edition. The gold-plated version is slightly more valuable than the regular sterling edition, although some buyers will try to convince you otherwise. Each medal depicted a famous artwork through the ages. The set was housed in a beautiful mahogany display box with shelves. Although quite valuable, this is one of the more common sets.
4. The Franklin Mint Centennial Cars Ingot Collection
Celebrating 100 years of automobiles, this set of 100 sterling silver ingots was produced from 1974 - 1978. Each ingot measures roughly 1.25" X 2.25". The set was housed in a beautiful solid oak trunk.
5. The Franklin Mint History of Mankind Medals Collection
The set was issued from 1974-1982. The complete set contains 100 medals. Each medal is a 51 millimeter Proof, 24K gold electroplate coating on sterling silver. The most important events in the history of civilization were commemorated in this collection.
6. The Franklin Mint 50 Greatest Sailing Ships in History Ingot Collection
Museum Collection. Complete set of 50 ingots. Each measures app. 2-1/2" by 1-3/4". The 50 greatest sailing ships of the past 50 centuries were honored in this collection of 50 ingots.
7. The Franklin Mint Bicentennial History of the United States Ingots Collection
This set of sterling silver ingots included 100 different pieces commemorating great events in American history.
8. The Franklin Mint Bicentennial Bowl
14 inches in diameter, 7 inches high. Huge and solid sterling silver.
9. The Franklin Mint Masterpieces of Thomas Gainsborough Ingots Collection
This was a set of 100 gold-plated sterling silver ingots issued to commemorate the great works of British artist Sir Thomas Gainsborough. We believe this set was issued only in Great Britain and the UK.
10. The Franklin Mint Flags of the United Nations Collection
Complete set of 135 large ingots, certified on March 15, 1974. Each ingot shows the official flag of a country that is a member of the United Nations at that time. The full size set was issued when there were 135 members. A small so-called "mini" set was issued later which contained 142 tiny silver ingots, each about the size of a fingernail. The mini set is much less valuable than the large set.
This list includes only sterling silver sets. A number of very valuable sets were produced in 24 karat gold.
Wondering what your pocket watch is worth? An iGuide appraisal gives you the true price of your pocket watch so you can buy or sell with confidence. Internet research is hard and confusing. Not for our experts. We do the hard work so you don't have to. Arm yourself with pricing knowledge. Become an instant expert.
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No subscription required. You can create a free account if you wish, but it's optional. You can buy appraisal credits to save money, but again, it's not required. Our goal is to make it as simple and friction-free as possible to price your pocket watch.
Help us help you.
The more details you provide, the better your appraisal will be. You'll have the opportunity to give a brief description, a deep description, and shoot or upload photos.
Brief: In your brief description include details such as:
Year made (if known)
Model number (if known)
Manufacturer
Name (example: Railroad Special)
Other text or markings: Describe any tiny text or markings found on the pocket watch.
Full Description: Here's where you go into the full story. Describe the condition, whether it is like new or used. Does it work? Tell us what you know about the item... age, where obtained, is it part of a larger collection or a single item? You're not limited by the size of the input box, it expands as you type. So tell us all you know about your pocket watch.
While your descriptions are important, photos are crucial. Be sure to include at least one photo of each side of the item and closeups of any tiny text or markings. Include shots of the front and back too. Unscrew the back and take a shot of the movement.
Good, well-lit, clearly focused photos improve your appraisal result and help us have a better idea of what you have. Do a good job so we can do a good job.
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Antique pocket watches are prized collectibles that hold historical, aesthetic, and financial value. While many brands produced pocket watches in the past, it’s the Swiss pocket watch brands that are the most sought after, with legendary names like Patek Philippe and Cartier leading the way. These timepieces, renowned for their intricate craftsmanship and precision, can fetch tens of thousands, if not hundreds of thousands, of dollars at auction.
Here’s a closer look at some of the most valuable pocket watch brands and their estimated value:
Top Swiss Pocket Watch Brands
Patek Philippe: Regarded as the pinnacle of Swiss watchmaking, antique pocket watches by Patek Philippe often sell for $50,000 to over $1 million, depending on rarity and condition. The famous 1932 “Henry Graves Supercomplication” pocket watch holds the record, having sold for over $24 million at auction.
Cartier: Known for its elegance and luxury, Cartier pocket watches often range from $10,000 to $100,000, with special editions or pieces featuring gemstone embellishments commanding even higher prices.
Vacheron Constantin: One of the oldest Swiss watchmakers, Vacheron Constantin’s pocket watches are highly collectible and often priced between $20,000 and $200,000, depending on their complexity and condition.
Audemars Piguet: Renowned for its complications, antique Audemars Piguet pocket watches can range in value from $15,000 to $150,000, with rare models achieving higher prices.
Breguet: Known for its innovative designs and mechanical advancements, Breguet pocket watches are often valued at $20,000 to $500,000, with some rare models exceeding $1 million.
Valuable American Pocket Watch Brands
While Swiss brands dominate the high-end market, several American pocket watch manufacturers are also highly collectible due to their quality and historical significance.
Waltham Watch Company: Renowned for its high-quality craftsmanship, rare Waltham models can sell for $1,000 to $10,000, with solid gold cases or special editions fetching even higher prices.
Elgin National Watch Company: Elgin pocket watches typically range in price from $500 to $5,000, though rare models, particularly those with unique features or solid gold cases, can exceed $10,000.
Hamilton Watch Company: Valued for their precision, Hamilton pocket watches often sell for $1,000 to $7,500, with railroad-grade watches being especially prized by collectors.
Illinois Watch Company: Collectors appreciate Illinois watches for their unique designs and limited production runs. Prices generally range from $1,500 to $8,000, though rare models can fetch more.
Howard Watch Co.: Known for their luxury and reliability, rare E. Howard pocket watches can command prices ranging from $2,000 to $15,000, depending on condition and rarity.
The Antique Pocket Watch Market Today
The antique pocket watch market remains vibrant, with increasing demand for rare and well-preserved pieces. Several factors influence a watch’s value, including:
Brand reputation Rarity Condition Provenance
While Swiss brands remain the gold standard in the market, American brands are gaining traction due to their affordability and historical significance.
Pro Tip: Get an iGuide Pocket Watch Appraisal
Before buying or selling an antique pocket watch, consider getting a professional appraisal through iGuide.net. Their expert evaluations can help you determine the true value of your timepiece, ensuring you make informed decisions in today’s competitive market.
To accurately appraise your watch and determine whether it's solid gold, gold-filled, or gold-plated, it's essential to examine the interior components, specifically the inside back plate and the watch movement.
Steps to Open Your Watch Safely
1. Determine the Case Type
Watches have various case designs, including screw-back, hinged-back, and snap-back cases. Identifying the type will guide you in opening it correctly.
2. Prepare Your Workspace
Work on a clean, flat surface with adequate lighting. Gather necessary tools, such as a case knife or a rubber ball designed for opening watch backs.
3. Opening the Case Screw-Back Case: Apply gentle, even pressure with a rubber ball or the palm of your hand, turning counterclockwise to unscrew the back. If it's tight, consider using a case wrench for better grip.
Hinged-Back Case: Locate the small lip or notch and carefully insert a case knife to pry it open. Avoid using excessive force to prevent damage.
Snap-Back Case: Find the indentation or gap and gently use a case knife to pop the back open. Proceed with caution to avoid scratching the case or injuring yourself.
4. Document the Interior
Once opened, take clear, focused photographs of the inside back plate and the movement. These images are crucial for accurate appraisal and material identification.
Caution: If you're uncertain or uncomfortable with opening your watch, it's advisable to seek assistance from a professional watchmaker or jeweler to prevent potential damage.
Every movie poster collector knows what a window card is, but only a handful of collectors have more than a passing acquaintance with that size of movie poster known as the mini-window card. I myself had been dealing in movie posters for several years and had never knowingly seen one. Then one day at a convention in Houston, fellow nostalgia fantastic Robert Brown showed me a whole album filled with the little gems, most of them on blockbuster titles and all of them just gorgeous. Even then, I thought they were very nice, but had no desire to own one. Nevertheless, being the opportunist that I am, I kept my eyes open in case I could find one to sell or trade to Robert. To my great surprise, I couldn't turn up even one in the several months following.
So the next year at the Houston convention, I quizzed Robert extensively on the little buggers. I even traded him out of a few of his duplicates, and against my better judgment, I bought a couple of them. I was hooked! I determined right then and there to collect as many different ones as I could, and more importantly, to get at least one more than Robert had, even if he got more. It has taken 12 years and many dollars, but that day has finally arrived. The actual numbers are academic because Robert has not counted his lately, but we both agreed at the Dallas Big D show in July that we have about the same number. We are each closing in on 300 different. Whether I have more than Robert or not doesn't seem to matter any more because I know I am within striking distance. It's more important now to see if I can get to the big three-oh-oh.
What is it about these midget cards, smaller even than lobby cards, that attracts and enchants the few of us who collect them for their own sake? I wish I knew. This article, besides telling you all you ever wanted to know about mini-window cards but were afraid to ask, will also be an attempt to answer this question.
The difficulty of capturing the essence of these little creatures shows itself even in a rudimentary description of them. For example, they can be anywhere from 8 1/2 x 11 inches to 8 1/2 x 14 inches, depending on the artwork and on whether or not the theater imprint has been trimmed off the top. The artwork of all of the early Columbias and First Nationals, most of the Warner Bros. and MGM's, and some of the RKO's and Paramounts, exceeds 11", leaving very little room at the top for the theater imprint. The artists at Universal, Fox and Twentieth Century-Fox hardly ever went over the 11" mark, and RKO and Paramount only rarely did.
Mini-window cards can be found then in four different ways: 8 1/2 x 14 untrimmed with or without theater imprint, 8 1/2 x 14 untrimmed with one or more imprints pasted or stapled over a blank or earlier imprint, and trimmed to any size down to 8 1/2 x 11. I personally prefer them untrimmed in good shape with a theater imprint, although there is probably little difference in value for any of the ways they are found. More about imprints later.
The paper stock these cards are printed on is also a complicating factor. In general, for example, when Warner Bros. printed the lobby cards for a movie on linen stock, the mini-window card was done the same way. Same for early Columbias and their coated stock. They were all printed on a slightly smaller weight paper than the lobby cards (nowhere near as thick as a regular window card).
One real mystery has developed which I hope to shed some light on here. There are two different mini-window cards for The Adventures of Robin Hood -- one flat and one on a linen-like paper. I have seen both, and I don't really know why there is such a discrepancy. This anomaly may also involve other Warner Bros. films, but none has yet come to light. At first, I thought it was an "other company" piece, but I ruled this out because the artwork is identical. Besides, I know of no "other company" mini-window cards. Of course, since all the lobby cards I have seen are on linen paper, the flat mini-window cards from this title could be counterfeit, but this is not likely. More probably, the flat one was either a purposeful experiment or a mistake. Some of the mini-window cards somehow got printed on flat paper instead of linen. The only other explanation I can think of, which has been advanced by at least two collectors, is that the flat one is a same year reissue. My own theory is that the flat ones were not a reissue but a second printing, and that the printer had temporarily run out of linen stock.
There are only two characteristics of mini-window cards that are not controversial. They are always printed on the vertical, like an insert, and they were hardly ever reissued. In fact, I know of only one reissue mini-window card--the 1939 reissue of All Quiet on the Western Front. Moreover, this one may have been reissued because when the movie first came out in 1930, there were no mini-window cards.
This brings me to my next point. When were they made? It seems that they came in with the talkies and were killed by the returning World War II soldiers and sailors. More likely, they were determined to be useful when the neighborhood concept materialized early in the Great Depression and they disappeared along with the bulk of the neighborhood candy and cigar stores and cafes after the war as people moved to the newly-built suburbs. They also could have succumbed to the paper drives during the war, and as the smallest poster size, were just never revived.
At any rate, my earliest card is dated 1932 and my latest one is 1947, and I have not seen any dated earlier or later. In a study of the 276 different that I own, which is probably a pretty representative sampling of those remaining, they average between 13 and 22 different for each year from 1932 until 1937, when I have no less than 38. I have 22 dated 1938, and 43 for that glorious year 1939. There are 20 for each of the next two years, and then they taper off gradually until 1947. What I know of Robert's cards bears out these statistics. While there is some overlap, the percentages are similar. The obvious, although unscientific conclusion, is that they were used steadily until the war began, and then, like nearly everything else during the war, they were gradually put on the back burner.
A breakdown of my cards by major studios yields interesting results also. The first and last years for each one follows:
Universal....1935-44
Paramount....1932-40
Fox/20th.....1932-44
RKO..........1932-40
Columbia.....1932-42
MGM..........1933-43
Warner Bros..1933-47
As can be easily seen, if this chart is accurate (and Robert's cards change these statistics only slightly and on the later end), it probably rules out both a Dracula and Frankenstein mini-window card, but does not preclude one for each of the many sequels and similar films through 1944. Moreover, there is a good probability of the existence of a King Kong mini-window card. Indeed, I have seen the pressbook, and there is a picture of one there. Whether any were ordered by a theater or a poster exchange is another question, however, and whether any were printed is even more tenuous.
Of even greater importance to many collectors is the likely non-existence of any silent mini-window cards or any of the great talkies before 1932 or those wonderful RKO film noir pictures from 1941 on (including Citizen Kane). Apparently, neither Paramount nor RKO had mini-windows printer after 1940. Sadly, it seems that Universal did not start using them until 1935, and then, along with Fox, Columbia, and MGM, the studio bowed to the wartime paper conservation. Warner Bros. was the only studio whose mini-window cards can be found from the beginning to the end of the run. I wonder if they knew that they were designing the last midget cards. Finally, the four poverty row studio mini-window cards I have (three World Wide/Tiffany cards and one Mascot serial card) date from the early 1930s. Alas, no Republic or Monogram mini-window cards have been reported, and very few cards of serials exist. Similarly, none of the great Disney or Fleischer studios cartoons were captured in the mini-window format.
As you would imagine, Warner Bros. mini-window cards are the most common, but Paramount runs a close second. This is surprising, since Paramount did not have a single mini-window card printed after 1940. Next down the line are MGM, Twentieth Century-Fox, and Universal in that order, with around the same numbers surviving (about two-thirds as many). Then comes Columbia, RKO, and Fox before the merger with Twentieth Century (about one-fourth of the surviving titles). Finally, with only two to four known are Tiffany/World Wide and Mascot. These figures include both blockbuster titles and non-star titles, because I relentlessly pursue any title I don't have.
My goal is to have one untrimmed mini-window card for every picture they were made for. As you can guess, this disease will be terminal. By the way, for the purposes of this survey, First Nationals were combined with Warner Bros., and Cosmopolitans were counted as either MGM or Warner Bros., as appropriate. Finally, Fox and Twentieth Century-Fox were arbitrarily kept separate.
Common sense would tell you that these tiny gems were used in tiny places, and your logic has not failed you. Like regular window cards, which were used in grocery stores and banks and other large outside store windows to advertise the movie at the local theater, mini-window cards were used in a similar way. They were mostly placed in glass cases inside the store by the cash register in such establishments as cafes, drug stores, cigar stores candy stores, and the like--usually taped inside the case facing out.
This fact alone accounts for the wholesale decimation of the mini-window card population, regardless of the print run, because these places tended to be mainly frequented by people from the neighborhood who would want to know what was playing down the street Tuesday and Wednesday at the Roxy. In fact, they might have no other way of knowing unless they happened to pass the theater and check the marquee. And if the star on the card happened to be a favorite of a good customer, the proprietor of the store would gladly give the poster to him to keep his business. Besides, it didn't cost him anything. Then, when the theater manager came to collect the mini-window card to send back to the poster exchange, if the shopowner had given it away, it wasn't any big deal because it only cost him three cents. You have to come to the conclusion that the very nature of their use contributed to the eventual destruction of thousands of these posters.
Another contributing factor to the small number of mini-window cards remaining was the subsequent treatment of them by theater poster exchange, movie memorabilia dealers, and even collectors. I heard one horror story of a poster exchange folding them in half and using them as alphabetical markers for one-sheets and lobby cards! Again, probably because of their size, their low cost, and their general flimsiness, theater managers and poster exchange operators tended to give or throw them away. Alas, mini-window cards became victims of their own beauty and economy. Similarly, they were largely ignored or treated as step-children by poster dealers who obviously thought that they would not be wanted by any serious collector. Collectors themselves unknowingly continued the destructive process by buying or trading for them only as fillers until they could get a larger piece on that particular film. Moreover, while a particular size of poster is even today typically in an upswing or a downswing of a cycle, mini-window cards have been since their inception on a perpetual downswing, never reaching anywhere near the popularity of first one-sheets, then lobby cards, and now three-sheets and foreign posters. Finally, there never were very many of them in the first place. There is no way, of course, to get an accurate print run, but an educated guess based on discussions with several collectors puts it at from 100 to no more than 500 for each title. Allowing for all of the destructive possibilities described above, there are probably only from zero to 20 remaining today for any one title. Exceedingly rare, to say the least.
When I first started collecting these midget jewels, I was amazed when I would go up to a big dealer from New York or California and ask him if he had any mini-window cards, and he would say, "What?" When I would describe them further, he would invariably answer, "Oh. No, I never see those." On the other hand, when I would approach a dealer from the middle West or the Southwest, I would often find one or two, or at least not have to describe them to him. Moreover, as I began noting theater imprints, I found them proclaiming such grand movie houses as the Kozy Theater--Granite, Oklahoma or the Orpheum--Lancaster, Wisconsin or the Deluxe--Spearville, Kansas or my personal favorite--the Empress Theater in Waurika, Oklahoma. I soon discovered that the vast majority of the surviving imprints came from the middle part of the country, and not from the two coasts or Chicago, as you might expect. In fact, I have found only one from the West Coast and none from the East. The Nifty Theater in Waterville, Washington is the lone coastal imprint.
It is my conclusion that most mini-window cards were ordered by small-town theaters in America's heartland, where there was only one theater per town. The rest, a small minority, were sent to neighborhood theaters in larger cities, but have since been lost through the processes described above. Another reason for their prevalence in the Southwest (and Oklahoma especially) may have been because the Smith Brothers, who operated a theater poster exchange in Canton, Oklahoma for many years, liked them and kept them (or sold them to Robert in Oklahoma City).
Incidentally, there is yet one more anomaly regarding mini-window cards. Many pressbooks will have a picture of one, but this is no guarantee that it was ever ordered or even printed. Furthermore, even though they may have been printed and used, there is no guarantee that any still exist today. Conversely, even though the pressbook may not list it, it may still exist. Some pressbooks were not very elaborate, and others may not be complete, either missing a page or not taking the trouble to have a photo of such a small, insignificant piece. At any rate, the pressbook should not be used as a bible; it is not infallible.
What films were midget cards produced for? Robert Brown says all of them within the years noted above for each studio, but that seems impossible. That would mean thousands and thousands of cards have been lost with no trace, since there are less than a thousand known titles. It seems more likely that there was some systematic way of deciding which movies needed them and which didn't. This is probably the most exasperating and unanswerable question of all.
Something needs to be said about the artwork itself. It should be remembered the mini-window cards were posters, not scenes from the film. They were designed, like the other posters, to get people to see the movie. Sometimes they were exact reductions of the one-sheet, and sometimes they were very similar to it, with minor color variations or rearrangements of the elements. Often they were completely different from all the other posters in the ad campaign. There is not much consistency, even within one studio, although Twentieth Century-Fox favored drawings rather than photos, and almost always simply reduced the one-sheet. Although each studio eventually developed a distinctive look, at any given period during the life of the genre, it could have drawings only, with no stars, or drawings with stars, photos only, or any combination of these. The only consistent thread running through 99% of them is that they are knockouts--even the non-name titles, but especially the linen cards. they all have fresh colors, no folds, and with the imprints, they are brimming with history. In a word, they are simply beautiful.
Finally, a little bit about pricing. First, there's the interminable argument about trimmed vs. untrimmed. My preferences having already been demonstrated, a slight premium is not inappropriate for an untrimmed mini-window card. Having said that, I realize I might have just cost myself several hundred dollars, but I have to be honest. Untrimmed cards are just more attractive. The final judgment remains, however, between the buyer and the seller, and it will always be so. Regarding price as related to one-sheets, lobby cards, etc., my opinion is that they should be priced about the same as, or a little more than, a title card. I've discussed this at length with many collectors and dealers, and the range has been surprisingly small. To a man, we agree that they are probably worth not less than the value of a scene card and not more than an insert form the same movie. From here on--caveat emptor!
Before I close, I would like to thank several people specifically for things they have done for me during my quest for these posters--Robert
Brown for getting me started and for keeping me going during the lean years; Gene Andrewski for first calling attention to their importance in the early days and for being one of the first real collectors; Steve Sallye for finding me my only serial card and for pointing me to midget cards at shows; Jon Warren for selling me a lot of early Paramounts at a reasonable price and for giving me the opportunity to finally get these thoughts down on paper; Lee Brinsmead for trading me a nice lot of cards and for being an all-around good guy about letting me have first shot at any he gets; Gary Vaughn, who kept Saratoga for me until I could get it back and who brokered the deal that lost Casablanca but got so many great others; and mostly Gene Arnold, who sold me the absolute best one in my collection and who still saves them all for me until he sees me; and all the other good guys who do the same. You know who you are. Thanks.
In conclusion, let me make the standard disclaimer. This article was written by picking the brains of several collectors and dealers, pooling all our ideas, and, using the information collected, coming to what I hope are logical conclusions. The information here was not gleaned from any written source, because I couldn't find anything on them; the conclusions are my own, and I take full responsibility for them.
In order to make a sight-unseen offer for your old comic books, a comic book buyer needs to know certain key information. YOU SHOULD INCLUDE THIS INFO IN YOUR INITIAL LIST! If you are new to comic book selling, building the list yourself can be a chore, but this article covers the main points and hopefully makes it a bit easier. Before you start off trying to sell your old comic books, you should make an inventory list. It will be the first thing any comic book collector will ask for.
IMPORTANT: YOU SHOULD INCLUDE THE FOLLOWING INFO IN YOUR LIST!
TITLE
Always on the front cover; example: AMAZING SPIDER-MAN)
ISSUE NUMBER
Always on the front cover or in the tiny print at bottom of first page; example: #175
ISSUE DATE
Always on the first page or inside front cover; example: June, 1947 issue)
CONDITION
Used, torn, like new, VG, NM etc., just a best guess, even if you only say USED or LIKE NEW
ANTIQUE GUN COLLECTING is a hobby and that, in turn, is defined as "Something in which one takes an absorbing interest"—a hobby is divorced from a man's main vocation. It will repay you as a sanctuary safe from the stress and strain of a distraught world. It will develop your traits of observation, increase your historical knowledge, increase your scientific information and offer a good monetary return.
Typical of the letters received by the writer is the following:
"I was on the verge of selling a gun I had bought at an auction for eight dollars until I was told about your book, `American Antique Guns and Their Current Prices.' After looking it up I was able to get $250.00 from a dealer. I do not ordinarily handle guns because I am afraid of them and also because I do not know anything about them. Can you re- fer me to some elementary text that would help me?"
The answer to this letter is this series of articles. They will attempt to explain step by step, in plain English the mysteries of guns, the fundamentals of gun collecting, and how to make guns an interesting and profitable addition to your antique business. Once you have mastered these lessons you will find the knowledge is a passport to a world of gun collectors that intensely ride their hobby.
The gun to us is a symbol of the battles we Americans fought for our freedom and its maintenance. Firearms influenced our destiny and are related to our development. Firearm manufacture with the introduc- tion of interchangeable parts and the use of machinery supplied the key- stone of America's industrial development.
Each gun opens a window upon a historic vista. Biography, Science, History are conjured up by fact while the magic of fancy unveils the romance and mystery of the past. Storied guns! Ghosts of the past! That "Kentucky pistol" beaten into shape and created into form by the Pennsylvania village blacksmith and gunsmith was the sidearm of the fur trader as he guided the horse pack caravan laden with merchandise to trade for pelts.
That derringer reposed in the vest pocket of the cotton planter as he faced the professional gambler in a game of cards on the packet as it sailed the Mississippi.
That colt came from the Sheriff's carved holster as he headed the vigilantes for law and order. The oak of those grips came from the famous Connecticut "Charter Oak" that played such an important role in colonial history.
That pair of "dueling pistols" ornate and encased in the velvet-lined box with the accouterments pacified some ruffled pride.
That "Smith & Wesson" suggests an officer's sidearm in the War Between the States.
These old pieces have witnessed life and death, love and hate, sorrow and sacrifice, triumph and disaster, and with a kaleidoscope turn the pat- tern is new. They are the mirror of a vanished era and we interpret the reflection terms of our knowledge.
America gave to the world the rifle, the derringer, and the revolver. These old and revered weapons were invented for peace and are a noble reminder of the pageant of people that braved unknown dangers, "went West," blazed trails, formed territories, established law and order, pushed back the frontier and created a nation. The revolver was one of the greatest civilizing factors. The march of civilization and its survival is dependent upon firearms though it,be a far cry from the Scripture's record of the use of ingenious machines with power from twisted ropes or of David's sling.
Firearms influenced our destiny and are related to our development. We are a peace-loving people, yet no American has lived to the age of thirty-five without seeing his country at war. The saga of weapons can sustain "an absorbing interest" because it is a brilliant and neglected story of American historic importance with many long and remarkable chapters between the days of the obscure and primitive-tool equipped gunsmith who forged the world's most accurate rifle and our modern huge plants with the finest equipment. ,The United States is the story of the invention of mechanical miracles and astonishing progress. The gun was the genesis of mass production. Mass production gave us industrial su-premacy and now though we have only 7 percent' of the population of the world, we produce 65 percent of the manufactured goods.
Eli Whitney, whom we know for his invention of the cotton gin, also accomplished another feat fully as important. He received a government contract in 1798 to build fifteen thousand flintlock muskets. Each gun until then was an individual forged weapon, made by a single workman. The weapons resembled each other but the parts were not interchange- able. Whitney separated the gun into uniform, standard and interchange- able parts and manufactured the component parts by machinery. That is how mass production was born.
The Remington gun factory, founded in 1816 by Eliphalet Remington, farmer and blacksmith, produced the first breech-loading rifle that gained worldwide acceptance.
Samuel Colt, Connecticut Yankee whose career was fantastic, invented the first practical repeating revolver in 1835.
Oliver Winchester backed the first practical repeating rifle, and also helped finance Horace Smith and Daniel Baird Wesson. They became Smith & Wesson, a synonym for the cartridge revolver.
John M. Browning, a Mormon gunsmith of Ogden, Utah, was one of the greatest and most prolific inventors of firearms.
Behind the names of Eli Whitney, Simeon North, Henry Deringer, Alfred Mordecai, Ethan Allen, Eliphalet Remington, Samuel Colt, Hor- ace Smith, Daniel Baird Wesson and John M. Browning are important and dramatic stories as well as the unsung craftsman.who supplies many fascinating details. Vital to the story of American technical ingenuity, skill and progress is the American method of belt assembly lines and interchangeable parts, contributions by gunsmiths.
Antique Gun Collecting demands knowledge, research and study. The background of a weapon is dependent upon five w's which are: Who made it? Where? When? Why? Worth?
A Paterson Colt was picked up at a junk store for $10.00. Treasures lurk in trash and that old, rusty, junky gun may be a gem. How else could one recognize its worth if not through diligent study? Follow carefully on iGuide our series of articles and you will soon discover that an adventure may be grasped by one who "takes an absorbing interest."
Antique guns are a sound investment—financial probably—but certainly in appreciation of fine craftsmanship with the dividend in pride of possession.
Gun collecting is an educational and profitable hobby. To be a successful collector you must, of course, study your subject. Observation will teach you much. One of the intriguing features of gun 'collecting is the knowledge it brings of the past. Guns are records fog interpreting, visualizing and vitalizing history. The knowledge, of the past helps us to see it as a reality in relation to the present.
Gun collecting is an unusual hobby because it is a source of profit rather than an expense. It also furnishes abundant pleasure and fascinating study. We hope to trace a brief outline of gun collecting in this book. Acquiring a collection of interest and value is a long-term operation. There are many branches to explore with study and experience to master them, but be not deterred, therein is the secret of its interest.
In the post-war era of innovation and progress, the story of Fender Electric Instrument Company emerges as a pivotal narrative in the evolution of modern music. Founded by Leo Fender and Doc Kauffman in Fullerton, CA, in the autumn of 1945, the company quickly positioned itself at the forefront of musical instrument innovation. This article delves into the history, impact, and legacy of Fender, exploring the key events and decisions that shaped its journey from a small workshop to a global musical icon.
The Early Years: Foundation and Innovation
The partnership of Leo Fender and Doc Kauffman, albeit short-lived, marked the beginning of what would become a legendary name in music. By early 1946, Kauffman had left, leaving Fender to single-handedly drive the future of the Fender Electric Instrument Company. The introduction of the Esquire and Broadcaster models in 1950, which would soon evolve into the iconic Telecaster, marked Fender as the first company to successfully market solid body electric guitars. This innovation was not just a commercial success but a cultural revolution, laying the foundation for a new era in music.
Revolutionizing the Music Scene
The release of the Precision Bass in late 1951 was perhaps even more revolutionary than Fender's solid body guitars. As the first commercially successful solid body bass, the Precision Bass offered musicians unprecedented volume, clarity, and ease of playing. This innovation, followed by the introduction of the Stratocaster in 1954, cemented Fender's reputation. These instruments were not merely tools of music but catalysts for the birth of new genres and the evolution of music as we know it.
Fender Amplifiers: The Unsung Heroes
Parallel to the success of its instruments, Fender's amplifiers played a critical role in the evolution of music. The rich, clear tones produced by Fender amps enabled artists to explore new territories in sound, contributing significantly to the rock and roll revolution of the 1950s and 1960s. The amplifiers, with their distinctive sound and reliability, became as integral to music as the guitars they were paired with.
The CBS Era: Expansion and Challenge
The acquisition of Fender by CBS in 1965 marked a new chapter for the company. Initially, the infusion of CBS's resources allowed for expansion and the introduction of new lines. However, this period also saw a perceived decline in the quality of Fender instruments, a sentiment that lingered through the 1970s. In an effort to modernize and revitalize the brand, CBS appointed Bill Schultz as president in 1981, leading to significant changes in production and the introduction of Fender Japan.
Rebirth and Global Expansion
The sale of Fender to a group led by Schultz in 1985 was a turning point, marking the beginning of the Fender Musical Instruments Corporation. Despite initial challenges, including the absence of US production facilities, the company rebounded with the launch of American Standard models and consolidated amplifier production. Today, Fender instruments are produced in facilities around the world, continuing the legacy of innovation and quality.
Legacy: The Pre-CBS Era and Beyond
For many collectors and players, instruments from the pre-CBS era represent the pinnacle of Fender's craftsmanship. The demand for these vintage instruments, particularly those in custom colors, extends even into the late 1960s models. While lower-end models and certain lines like the Coronados have not garnered the same acclaim, rare models such as the Montego and LTD archtops hold a special place among collectors.
The Evolution of Fender Basses
The Precision Bass set a new standard for electric basses, a legacy that continued until the Jazz Bass emerged as the preferred sound in the 1990s. Early models of both the Precision and Jazz basses are highly sought after by collectors, reflecting the enduring impact of Fender's innovations on music.
Material Innovation: Bakelite and Beyond
Fender's use of materials like Bakelite, or Phenolite for early pickguards, and the transition to rosewood fingerboards on maple necks, exemplify the company's innovative approach to instrument design. These material choices not only influenced the aesthetic and functional aspects of the instruments but also contributed to their distinctive sounds.
In conclusion, the history of Fender Electric Instrument Company is a testament to the power of innovation, vision, and resilience. From its humble beginnings in a small California workshop to its status as a global icon, Fender has left an indelible mark on the world of music. Through its pioneering instruments and amplifiers, Fender has not only shaped the sound of generations but has also played a central role in the evolution of musical expression itself.
What are Bradford Exchange Limited Edition Plates?
Bradford Exchange Limited Edition Plates have long been cherished by collectors as timeless decorative art pieces. Emerging in the mid-20th century, these plates often featured intricate designs celebrating famous artists, cultural icons, and historical events. Bradford Exchange plates were marketed as valuable collectibles, attracting enthusiasts who delighted in curating personal collections.
Once upon a time, the market for Bradford Exchange plates was vibrant and thriving. Collectors eagerly sought limited-edition releases, fostering a bustling community of enthusiasts.
Alas, All Good Things Must Come to an End
One aspect of Bradford Exchange Limited Edition Plates most people are not aware of is the declining market values of these collectibles. Alas, as with many once-popular hobbies, the golden era of Bradford Exchange plate collecting has passed. During the height of their popularity, especially in the 1980s and 1990s, these plates often commanded premium prices. However, declining interest in the hobby over the years has led to significantly lower market values.
Market Dynamics
The market for Bradford Exchange Limited Edition Plates is governed by supply and demand. Unfortunately, overproduction of certain series, combined with a generational shift away from plate collecting, has led to reduced demand. Today, fewer collectors are actively purchasing these plates, creating challenges for sellers hoping to realize a profit.
Factors Influencing Value
Several factors influence the value of Bradford Exchange Limited Edition Plates:
Rarity: Plates produced in limited quantities are generally more valuable.
Condition: Mint-condition plates with original boxes and certificates hold higher worth.
Demand: Certain themes, like holiday or wildlife designs, may still attract collectors.
Artist: Plates featuring works by renowned artists may retain value better.
Cultural Relevance: Designs tied to popular cultural trends often see fluctuating interest.
Risks and Rewards
Trading in Bradford Exchange Limited Edition Plates can be both rewarding and risky. On the plus side, some rare and highly sought-after plates still fetch good prices. On the downside, many plates fail to recoup their original cost due to the abundance of supply and lack of demand.
Who Buys Bradford Exchange Limited Edition Plates Today?
Today’s market for Bradford Exchange Limited Edition Plates is smaller than in decades past. Many dealers who once supported this niche have exited the marketplace, and younger generations often prefer more modern collectibles. However, online platforms like eBay, niche forums, and local flea markets remain viable options for buying and selling.
Top Bradford Exchange Limited Edition Plates to Hunt For!
Not all Bradford Exchange plates have lost their value. Some remain in demand among collectors:
“The Wizard of Oz Collection” – Plates featuring scenes and characters from this classic film can sell for $50 to $150 each.
“Norman Rockwell Series” – Timeless Americana artwork plates are valued at $40 to $100 depending on condition.
“The Wildlife of North America Series” – Plates with detailed animal illustrations may fetch $30 to $75.
“Disney Collector’s Plates” – Beloved Disney characters keep these plates in demand, selling for $50 to $120.
Discover the Value of Your Bradford Exchange Limited Edition Plates
iGuide’s Bradford Exchange Limited Edition Plates appraisal service is a good way to discover the value of your plate collection. Learn more.
Atari video games played a crucial role in shaping the gaming industry, and many early titles remain highly collectible today. From rare cartridges to factory-sealed editions, certain Atari video games have significantly appreciated in value. While many games are widely available, specific titles hold substantial worth based on rarity, condition, and demand.
Is there a market for Atari Video Games? One aspect of Atari game collecting that many people are unaware of is the potential monetary value of certain titles. The market for Atari video games has fluctuated over the years, influenced by collector interest, historical significance, and production rarity. First-run cartridges, sealed games, and limited-release titles tend to retain strong resale value, whereas mass-produced games may not fetch high prices.
The Market For Atari Video Games
The market for Atari video games remains strong, with dedicated collectors and retro gaming enthusiasts driving demand. However, the demand for Atari games is weak unless they are in "Mint Condition" and include original packaging, manuals, and inserts. Loose cartridges or damaged labels typically hold little value. Specialty gaming stores, online marketplaces, and auction houses serve as primary trading venues for high-value Atari games.
Factors Affecting Price
Condition is crucial when determining an Atari video game’s value. Games in near-mint condition with sealed packaging will fetch significantly higher prices than those with scratches, label wear, or missing components. Rarity and edition also play a major role—limited-run releases, prototype cartridges, and games with misprints are highly desirable. Historical significance impacts value as well, with games that were part of major industry events or had limited distribution attracting serious collectors. Demographics influence market trends, with retro gaming fans and nostalgia-driven buyers fueling demand for classic Atari titles.
Buying and Selling Atari Video Games
For those interested in buying and selling Atari video games, authenticity and condition are key. Ensuring that a game retains its original components and verifying authenticity through reputable sources is crucial, as reproductions and counterfeit copies can diminish value. Market trends fluctuate, and certain games may increase in value over time while others remain stable. Knowledgeable collectors can find profitable opportunities through gaming conventions, specialty game stores, and online auctions.
Who buys Atari Video Games today?
Collectors, retro gaming enthusiasts, and investors continue to drive the market for Atari video games. However, as older collectors downsize their collections, demand for specific games may shift. High-end buyers seek rare and pristine-condition games, while casual gamers look for affordable playable copies. Despite changing trends, interest in Atari video games remains strong, particularly for historically significant and rare editions.
Not all Atari video games have monetary value, but some remain highly sought after. Examples include early console titles, factory-sealed games, and rare promotional items.
Top 5 Atari Video Games to hunt for
1. Air Raid (1982) - Atari 2600 – One of the rarest Atari games, often selling for $30,000+ in mint condition. 2. E.T. The Extra-Terrestrial (1982) - Sealed Copy – Despite its infamous reputation, sealed copies have sold for $1,500+. 3. Swordquest: Waterworld (1983) - Atari 2600 – A rare part of the Swordquest series, valued at $5,000+. 4. Gamma Attack (1983) - Atari 2600 – A game so rare that only one known copy exists, estimated at $50,000+. 5. Atlantis II (1982) - Atari 2600 – A special competition cartridge, with values exceeding $5,000.
Learn More About The Value of your Atari Video Games
iGuide’s appraisal service is a good way to discover the value of your Atari video games. Learn more.
For the purposes of this site, Hummel art is any fine, decorative, or useful art form adapted from an original creative work by Berta Hummel (later Sister Maria Innocentia Hummel). The counterparts of these originals have appeared in numerous forms for over forty years. The three dimensional figurines are the most famous conceptions of her pastels and paintings.
Her original works are all over the world. Some of them are in the house where she was born in 1909, and in which her mother and brother still live. Primarily, these are the ones she drew before entering the convent in 1933. More of her original drawings and paintings are in the Franciscan Convent at the Seissen in West Germany. Dr. Herbert Dubler of Verlag Ars Sacra, Josef Muller of Munich wrote that they owned most of the originals for which they hold the two-dimensional rights. Some originals also exist which Sister Hummel gave as gifts during her relatively short life. Recently an original Sister Hummel made in 1939 at the request of some young girls surfaced in St. Louis.
The three-dimensional conversion of her originals into figurines was so well executed under her supervision while she was alive that they are now classed as works of art themselves by the U.S. Department of Commerce.
Most of the remaining Hummel art is two-dimensional expressions of her originals produced by photomechanical processes to preserve line and color. In this category are prints, pictures, calendars, and cards.Transfers have also been made to apply to articles such as music boxes, plates, bells, eggs, candles, and innumerable other collectibles.
Bas-relief is another form into which Sister Hummel's pictures have been adapted, principally for a series of annual plates. Production of these plates has usually been limited to the year of issue. Prints, pictures, greeting cards are a few of the two dimensional replicas that are very popular even in modern times.
Hummel-like art is the term used in this article for items often referred to as reproductions. This broader term is used because variations are so wide that there is a question of whether or not they were inspired by Sister Hummel's work. Some appear to have been more likely issued with the objective of capitalizing on the worldwide appeal of her work and the approved adaptations. These "unauthorized" reproductions are usually dissimilar enough to avoid infringing on existing copyrights. Some Hummel-like examples are in two-dimensional cards and prints, but most of them are figurines of varying quality and appearance. Currently only figurines licensed by the Franciscan Convent in Seissen to be produced by the W. Goebel Company of West Germany are genuine "M.I. Hummel" figurines. Each one must be so marked in an incised facsimile of Sister Humme;s script signature. Any piece without this signature is either Hummel-like, Hummel Inspired, a reproduction, or other imitation.
Many folks have collections of Hamilton Mint collectibles, either from collecting themselves or through inheritance. The burning question in the minds of many is: "Do HamiltonMint collectibles have value?" The answer, like so many in life, is "It depends."
The HamiltonMint was one of the largest issue of limited edition collectibles in the world, but went out of business in the late 1970s, after a bankruptcy.
HamiltonMint issued collectibles in many categories, including dolls, coins, ingots, plates, knives, die-car cars, jewelry and much more.
The issue price of HamiltonMint editions ranged from just a few dollars to hundreds of dollars each. Did these items hold their value, or go up?
The answer is that many are worth much more than original issue price, while others are not. Those that have enjoyed significant price appreciation are those sets made of precious metals such as sterling silver or gold. Otherwise, for items like dolls, plates, and knives, prices have not held, and in fact many of these items can be bought for a fraction of their original issue price.
So, the answer to the question posed at the begging of this article is that those collections made of silver or gold have good value today, often more than original issue price, while those not made of precious metals can be bought for a fraction of original issue price.
The moral of this story is "You win some, you lose some."
Epiphone traces its history to Anastasios Stathopoulo, who began making violins, lutes, and lioutos (traditional Greek instruments) in Sparta, Greece in 1873 (according to company literature from the 1930s, although he would have only been 10 years old). Stathopoulo’s family relocated to Smyrna, Turkey, in 1877m where he eventually established an instrument manufacturing business. To escape persecution, Anastasios moved his family to New York in 1903.
Stathopoulo’s instruments were labeled A. Stathopoulo. After his death in 1915, his sons Apaminondas (epi), Orpheus (orphie), and Frixo carried on the business, introducing the House of Stathopoulo brand in 1917. They incorporated in 1923 and concentrated on banjos, introducing the Epiphone Recording Series banjos (named after Epi) in 1924. They changed the company name to Epiphone Banjo Corporation in 1928.
Epiphone was best known in the 1920’s for highly ornamented Recording banjos. In the 1930s Epiphone became virtually the only banjo company to make a successful changeover to guitars as its primary product. Epiphone also supplied guitars for other distributors under the Sorrentino and Howard brands. The name of the company was changed in 1935 to Epiphone, Inc.
Epi Stathopoulo died of leukemia in 1943, and the company never fully recovered from his death or from the effects of World War II. C.G. Conn, a band instrument manufacturer and instrument distributor, acquired some control over Epiphone distribution and production in 1953 and moved production in part to Philadelphia, although labels continued to say New York. Orphie Stathopoulo regained control in 1955, but few instruments were made from 1956-57.
Chicago Musical Instrument Co., which owned Gibson, acquired Epiphone in 1957 and moved production to a facility near the Gibson factory in Kalamazoo, Michigan, Gibson introduced new Epiphone models at the annual trade show in 1958 and began shipping Epiphones in 1959. In 1960 production was moved to the newly expanded Gibson factory at 225 Parsons Street.
CMI was taken over by the ECL company in December 1969. Shipping records show a little over 800 Epiphones shipped from Kalamazoo in 1970. That same year, ECL (soon to be renamed Norlin) outsourced all Epiphone production to Japan. In 1979 Norlin began moving epi production to Korea, and by the mid 1980s almost all Epiphones were made in Korea.
Epiphone and Gibson (headquartered in Nashville since 1984) were acquired in 1986 by Henry Juskiewicz, David Berryman, and Gary Zebrowski. By the early 1990s, Epiphone had become a leading import brand. In 2002, Epiphone opened its own factory in China. The high-end Elitist line is produced in Japan. Occasional limited runs have been produced in Gibson’s Nashville and Montana Facilities.
Comments
Archtops: Recording models were Epiphone’s earliest high-quality guitars. They are hard to find in good condition, and are sought more by blues players and collectors than by jazz or folk players.
Pre-1937 Epis are of very high quality and generally much scarcer than later models. They are of considerable interest to collectors. They have a smaller body and a less-modern neck feel than later models and consequently are less sought by players for utility use.
Models made from 1937 (when body sizes were increased) to the end of New York Production in the mid 1950s are the most highly regarded by collectors. Most desirable are the professional-grade models on which the company built its reputation: Emperor, De luxe, Broadway, and Triumph. Hese models, along with Gibsons, are viewed by most collectors and musicians as the best factory-made archtop guitars ever produced. Low-end models are regarded as excellent instruments for serious amateurs.
Flat-tops: New York – made from flat-tops are of good quality, but they never achieved the recognition of Epi archtops or the flat-top guitars made by Gibson and Martin. Gibson-made flat-tops are fully equivalent in quality to similar Gibson models of the same period. Dreadnoughts are the most highly regarded, especially those from 1958-61 with New York-style necks and non-adjustable saddles. Most desirable is the Excellente, which is fancier than any Gibson dreadnought flat-top of its time and rivaled only in the Gibson line by the super jumbo J-200.
Electric archtops: New York – made epiphone electrics are interesting but generally are not nearly as highly regarded as the equivalent acoustics, which have solid carved tops and backs rather than the laminated construction of the electrics. Also, the electronics on New York Epis are not of high quality compared to Gibsons of the same period or to the later Gibson-made Epis. Consequently, New York Epi electrics bring less than Gibsons or equivalent Epi acoustics. Early Gibson Epis with New York pickups are of interest to collectors. Most hollowbody Epi electrics bring less than the equivalent Gibson models.
Double-cutaway thinbody electrics are the most highly sought, particularly the rare Emperor (66 total made) and the early blond-finish Sheraton. Sheratons with New York pickups are highly sought, though not for sound. The Riviera, though equal in playability and sound is not nearly as sought after. The Casino is associated with the Beatles and brings as much or more than the equivalent ES-330.
Solidbodies: Some collectors are interested in early solidbody models with New York pickups, but not for their sound. Later solidbodies with mini-humbucking pickups bring less money than their Gibson equivalents, which have standard size humbuckers. None is especially valuable, although the workmanship on Epiphones is equivalent to that of Gibsons.
Basses: Epiphone electric basses are not especially sought by collectors or players, although their workmanship and playability is fully equivalent to Gibson instruments of the same period. The embassy Deluxe is the Epiphone equivalent to the highly sought Gibson Thunderbird basses, and it has the potential to gain some of the appeal that Thunderbirds hold for collectors and players.
Epiphone upright basses are considered to be among the finest laminated-construction basses. It was Epi’s bass production capability that sparked Gibson’s interest in acquiring Epiphone in 1957. Although Gibson shipping records show a fair number of basses produced (644 total), Gibson-made Epi-basses are seldom seen.
Steel: Epiphone lap steels were good utility instruments for their time, but their pickups make them less desirable today than many Fender, Gibson, Rickenbacker, National, and Supro models. The models of greatest interest to collectors are those that are rare, aesthetically appealing, or historically interesting, such as the Model M, Rocco, and Varichord.
Mandolins: The Windsor, Windsor Special, and Artist mandolins, along with all Epiphone mandola and mandocello models, are extremely rare. They are of great interest to collectors as well as players. Of the models made in significant numbers, the relatively rare Strand garners the most interest from collectors. The Strand and Rivoli are regarded by players as quality instruments. The Adelphi is the most commonly seen Epiphone mandolin and is not highly regarded.
Banjos: Early models (pre-Recording Series) are well-made instruments, but because of their open back, short scale (tenors), large head, lighter tone ring, and lack of metal coordinating rod, their appeal is primarily historical. Recording Series banjos, particularly, those from 1927-c.35 with the metal coordinating rod and heavier flange, are regarded by tenor players to be among the finest of the period. They represent the golden age of the tenor banjo and are among the most ornate and most highly sought banjos of their period. Of the Gibson-made Epiphone banjos, only those with the Mastertone (Minstrel and plantation) have significant appeal.
Bing Crosby records are iconic artifacts from the golden age of music and entertainment. Known for his smooth baritone voice and timeless hits like "White Christmas," Crosby became one of the best-selling recording artists of the 20th century. His records, spanning decades from the 1930s to the 1970s, were once a staple in homes worldwide. While a niche group of collectors still exists today, the broader demand for Bing Crosby records has declined over the years, reflecting changes in music consumption and collector interests.
One aspect of Bing Crosby records most people are not aware of is the monetary value of some rare and vintage pieces. Is there a market for Bing Crosby records? Although interest has diminished, specific records, especially those that are rare, limited edition, or in pristine condition, can still command respectable prices. Exploring the economic history of Bing Crosby records provides valuable insights into how their demand has evolved over time.
The Market For Bing Crosby Records
The market for Bing Crosby records has undergone significant changes. During Crosby’s career, his records were immensely popular, with millions of copies sold worldwide. As technology evolved, vinyl records were replaced by cassettes, CDs, and digital music, reducing the general interest in physical media. Today, the market is selective, with only rare or highly collectible Bing Crosby records retaining monetary value. Common releases, even in good condition, often sell for modest amounts, reflecting the overall softening of demand.
Factors Affecting Price
Condition: The condition of Bing Crosby records is crucial. Chipped, broken, damaged, or heavily worn records have no value in the collector's market. Supply: With millions of Crosby records produced, many titles are easily found, limiting their rarity and value. Demand: Interest in vintage records has declined, especially for artists outside the rock or niche vinyl revival categories. Demographics: Most Crosby fans and collectors are aging, and younger generations show less interest, further softening demand.
Buying and Selling Bing Crosby Records
For those looking to buy and sell Bing Crosby records as a side hustle, there are opportunities and challenges. The primary challenge lies in identifying which records hold value. Rare records in excellent condition can yield significant profits, but the majority of Crosby’s catalog sells for modest sums. To succeed, sellers need to research the market, understand rarity, and carefully inspect the condition of records before buying or listing them for sale.
Who buys Bing Crosby records today?
The market for Bing Crosby records today consists mainly of niche collectors, vintage music enthusiasts, and dealers specializing in pre-digital era memorabilia. However, as older dealers exit the market and fewer collectors emerge, the number of potential buyers continues to decline. This trend may further reduce the market value of these records in the future.
Not all Bing Crosby records have monetary value, but certain editions remain highly sought after by collectors due to their rarity, historical significance, or unique features.
Top 5 Bing Crosby Records to hunt for
1. "White Christmas" Original 78 RPM: The record that defined Crosby’s career can fetch $50 to $100 in new condition. 2. Decca Acetate Pressings: Rare early pressings from the 1930s and 1940s can sell for several hundred dollars. 3. "Bing Crosby Sings Cole Porter Songs" (Limited Edition): This rare album is valued at $309 to $600. 4. Christmas-themed Records: Limited releases of Crosby's holiday hits can fetch $10 to $40 depending on rarity and condition. 5. Autographed Records: Any Crosby record with a verified signature can exceed $100, especially if it’s a rare pressing.
Learn More About The Value of your Bing Crosby Records
iGuide’s appraisal service is a good way to discover the value of your Bing Crosby records. Learn more.
Handbags have transcended their functional purpose to become symbols of luxury, fashion, and status. From high-end designer pieces to rare vintage finds, handbags can be valuable investments, with some appreciating significantly over time. While some handbags hold their value or even increase in price, others may lose their appeal depending on brand trends and condition.
Is there a market for Handbags? One aspect of handbag collecting that many people are unaware of is the potential monetary value of certain brands and models. The handbag market has experienced fluctuations, influenced by celebrity endorsements, limited releases, and brand prestige. Designer brands such as Hermès, Chanel, and Louis Vuitton consistently retain high resale values, especially for rare and sought-after pieces. However, mass-produced or fast-fashion handbags generally have little to no resale value.
The Market For Handbags
The market for handbags is competitive and highly influenced by exclusivity and condition. However, the demand for handbags is weak unless they are in "Mint Condition" or have historical significance. Handbags with excessive wear, missing accessories, or alterations typically hold little value. Luxury resale platforms, high-end consignment shops, and private collectors remain the primary avenues for trading valuable handbags.
Factors Affecting Price
Condition is crucial when determining a handbag’s value. Bags in pristine condition with original dust bags, authenticity cards, and packaging fetch significantly higher prices than those with visible wear. Brand and rarity also play a major role—brands like Hermès, Chanel, and Gucci command high prices, especially for limited editions. Materials and craftsmanship influence pricing as well, with exotic leathers and handmade designs increasing desirability. Demographics also impact the market, as luxury collectors and fashion enthusiasts drive demand for exclusive pieces.
Buying and Selling Handbags
For those looking to invest in handbags, there are both risks and opportunities. Ensuring authenticity is crucial, as counterfeit bags flood the market. Condition and timing also matter, as certain models may increase in demand due to celebrity endorsements or limited availability. However, those who understand the luxury market can make significant profits through handbag trading, auctions, and private resales.
Who buys Handbags today?
Luxury collectors, fashion enthusiasts, and high-end resale platforms drive the demand for premium handbags. However, as fashion trends shift, so does the desirability of certain styles and brands. High-end buyers focus on rare and exclusive handbags, while budget-conscious shoppers seek second-hand luxury pieces at discounted prices. Despite fluctuations, the demand for well-crafted handbags remains steady in the luxury market.
Not all handbags have monetary value, but some remain highly sought after. Examples include limited-edition designer pieces, vintage luxury handbags, and rare collaborations.
Top 5 Handbags to hunt for
1. Hermès Birkin – The ultimate luxury handbag, with prices ranging from $10,000 to over $500,000 for rare editions. 2. Chanel Classic Flap Bag – A timeless icon that appreciates in value, with some models selling for $10,000+. 3. Louis Vuitton Speedy (Vintage Editions) – Older versions of this classic bag are highly collectible and valued at thousands. 4. Gucci Bamboo Handle Bag – A vintage favorite that remains desirable among collectors, often fetching $5,000+. 5. Dior Saddle Bag – With its unique shape and popularity resurgence, this bag has seen prices soar beyond $7,000.
Learn More About The Value of your Handbags
iGuide’s appraisal service is a good way to discover the value of your handbags. Learn more.
The United States Mint has had several facilities throughout its history, each identified by a unique mint mark. These mint marks are small letters stamped on coins to identify where they were made. Here's a list of the mint marks and the corresponding cities in the United States Mint network:
P - Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
D - Denver, Colorado
S - San Francisco, California
CC - Carson City, Nevada
W - West Point, New York
O - New Orleans, Louisiana
C - Charlotte, North Carolina (Historic)
D (Historic) - Dahlonega, Georgia
It's worth noting that the Philadelphia mint was the first mint established in the United States, and for a long time, it did not use a mint mark. Modern coins minted in Philadelphia now carry the "P" mint mark, except for the cent. The other mints were established later to accommodate the expansion of the country and the need for coinage. The Carson City, Charlotte, and Dahlonega mints are historic and no longer in operation.
Gadrooning is a decorative motif that has graced the edges of tableware and various metalwork for centuries, embodying both aesthetic beauty and historical significance. This brief exploration delves into the essence of gadroon, tracing its origins and its enduring presence in the art of metalwork.
The Origins of Gadroon
Gadroon, often seen adorning the rims and feet of cups, plates, and other vessels, is characterized by its series of curved or straight lobes. Emerging in the late 17th century, this decorative technique quickly gained prominence, especially in silver and goldsmithing. The pattern, which can vary from simple smooth curves to intricate folded designs, was primarily used to add a touch of elegance and complexity to otherwise plain surfaces.
Gadroon in Art and Craftsmanship
The application of gadroon decoration is a testament to the artisan's skill and creativity. Its use extends beyond mere embellishment; it reflects the stylistic trends and cultural preferences of the period. In the late 17th and early 18th centuries, gadrooning was indicative of the Baroque movement's love for ornate and dramatic details. As it evolved, it became a staple in various art and design periods, adapting to the changing tastes while maintaining its distinctive charm.
Legacy and Modern Interpretations
Today, gadroon remains a popular decorative technique, cherished for its historical depth and visual appeal. Modern craftsmen and designers continue to draw inspiration from this classic motif, incorporating it into contemporary works while respecting its traditional roots. Gadroon serves as a bridge between past and present, allowing us to appreciate the continuity and evolution of artistic expression through the ages.
A common misconception surrounds the value of Franklin Mint silver collections. Many believe these items possess a value beyond their precious metals value, attributing to them a rarity or collectible premium that, in reality, seldom exists. This discussion aims to shed light on the intrinsic and market values of Franklin Mint silver, providing a grounded perspective on what sellers can realistically expect.
What is Franklin Mint Silver?
Franklin Mint has a storied history as a private mint known for producing collectibles, art, and memorabilia, with a significant portion of its offerings in silver. Founded in the mid-20th century, it gained fame for its intricate and themed silver sets, ranging from commemorative coins to decorative plates. However, despite the initial allure, the reality today is that the value of these pieces is rooted more in their metal content than in any collectible appeal.
The collecting world witnessed a similar phenomenon with Beanie Babies. Once a fervent hobby with items fetching thousands, the craze has significantly waned. The decline in Beanie Babies' popularity mirrors the depreciating interest and values in other collectibles, including Franklin Mint silver, emphasizing the volatile nature of such investments.
Market Dynamics
The market for Franklin Mint and similar collectibles is influenced by a variety of economic factors. The perception of value in the collectibles market is often subjective, with prices heavily dependent on current trends, demand, and the broader economic environment. For Franklin Mint silver, the market has seen a considerable downturn, with interest largely subsiding over the years. This shift reflects a broader trend away from traditional collectibles, impacting prices and demand.
Sellers should also know the facts:
1) Sterling silver is not pure silver. The 'silver price' in the newspaper is for pure silver. Sterling is 92% - so buyers must deduct for this fact. Most limited edition medals sets by Franklin Mint, Danbury Mint and others are made from sterling silver, not 999 pure silver. Of course, for sets made of 999 pure silver, no deduction is made.
2) Many people think they have more weight than they actually do - an ounce of silver is a troy ounce, which contains 31.1 grams. If you weigh a set on a bathroom or kitchen scale, the weight you get is a 'standard' ounce, or 28.5 grams. This is a 10% mistake in the weight. This is a common mistake novice sellers make.
Contrary to typical market drivers such as grade, rarity, and demand, the value of Franklin Mint silver collections is solely determined by their silver content. The notion of a thriving market for these items is, for the most part, a relic of the past. Today, the collectible aspect of Franklin Mint silver does not command a premium, rendering the market essentially inert.
Does Anybody Buy Franklin Mint Silver Today?
Despite the downturn in the collector's market, there are still avenues for selling Franklin Mint silver. Online platforms, such as 2nd Markets of Nashville, Tennessee, offer a buyer for these items, focusing on their metala value. Additionally, local pawn shops might show interest, particularly for the silver content. This highlights that while the collector's market may have diminished, the intrinsic value of the silver itself retains appeal.
It's crucial for sellers to remember that Franklin Mint silver remains valuable for its silver content.
Learn More About the Value of Your Franklin Mint Silver
iGuide’s Franklin Mint price guide is a good place to find the pricing information about your Franklin Mint silver and its current value. Learn more.
Dating a Randall knife can be a real chore! The more you understand about the frugal nature of W.D. 'Bo' Randall and the 'First in, Last out' policy of the shop, you begin to realize that it's more of a range rather than an exact date. The more information you have on the subtle changes to production through the years, the better you can narrow that range and avoid buying a misrepresented knife. Blade steel and stamps have had slight variations over the years; here are some things to look for.
Steel
The earliest RMK blades were made from steel automotive springs. Since the early 1940s, RMK's primary steel has been a 'High Carbon' Swedish 01 tool steel. In addition to the Swedish 'tool steel,' RMK also uses 440B Stainless Steel. The debut of the 'Fish,' 'Oyster,' and 'Barkeep' knives in the 1940s marked when stainless became viable for future knife production, though some stainless was used as far back as 1938. ATS-34 was introduced in the early 1990s as an option for models #9, #10, #24, and possibly a few 'non-catalogue' models.
Blade Stamps
In the early 1980s, the United States Postal Service (USPS) switched over to two-letter abbreviations for each of the 50 states. Some blade stamps have FLA., and others have FL. To some degree, this creates a line between pre-1980s knives, but this is not totally accurate.
The stamp maker made up a few stamps at the time with the 'FL' logo in both large and small variants; these were used only on stainless steel knives. Old and new versions of the stamps are in use. You'll find that the 'FL' stamp is interchangeable with the 'FLA' stamp, but only on stainless steel blades and only on those made after 1984. You won't ever see a 'FL' stamp on any legitimate O1 'high carbon' blade of any size as made by RMK.
FL & FLA stamps
Around 1958/59, a double-stamped 'SS' marking was first used on Orlando-made stainless blades, not the 01 Swedish tool steel. This practice continued until around 1963 when one of the S's was dropped.
1958-1963 Double SS Stainless Steel Stamp
The single S was usually stamped low on the ricasso, known to collectors as the 'Low S.' This method continued through at least 1965.
1963-1965 the 'Low S' Stainless stamp
The S was then moved up and adjacent to the RMK logo stamp. These adjacent S stamps are known to collectors as the 'Separate S.' They were made in Orlando from 1966 to 1971.
1966-1971 'Separate S' Stainless stamp
By 1972, stainless steel blades from Orlando are stamped with an RMK logo stamp with the S integrated.
From 1957-1977, RMK contracted to have their stainless blades forged in Solingen, Germany. This gave them an expedient, low-cost alternative to meet demand as the United States entered conflicts in the Southeast Asian war 'Vietnam.' The first Solingen blades were used on the Model #14 and #15. They were marked vertically on the ricasso as 'RANDALL MADE, SOLINGEN GERMANY.' By 1963, the marking changed to a single vertical ricasso stamp of 'STAINLESS' with the Solingen logo etched horizontally where the Orlando stamp normally resided, often with a single 'S' etched in too.
Vietnam war Era Solingen Stainless Stamp
RMK LOGO Stamp Letter Spacing Pre-1973
From the earliest, the Randall stamp on the blade remained seemingly unchanged. The 'O' in Orlando began about a half space indented from the 'R' of Randall. The comma between ORLANDO and FLA was about half a letter high, and no space separated it from 'FLA.'.
About the mid to late 1960s, the stamp was apparently changed slightly. The comma between Orlando and FLA was reduced in height, a small space was introduced between the comma and FLA, and because of that, the 'O' of Orlando was moved more directly under the 'R' of Randall, indented only about 1/8 letter or so.
Example of the letter spacing changes on the stamp from 1950s to late 1960s
Understanding these nuances can help you better date a Randall knife and appreciate the craftsmanship and history behind each blade. By paying close attention to the steel type, blade stamps, and subtle changes over the years, you can make a more informed purchase and avoid misrepresentation. Happy collecting!
Hey there, Beanie Baby aficionados and curious minds alike! One tidbit about Beanie Babies that might surprise you is the shifting sands of their market values. Let's dive into whether these iconic stuffed toys from the '90s still have a spot in the collectors' market today.
What are Beanie Babies?
Originally launched in the early '90s, Beanie Babies became an instant sensation thanks to their unique design—understuffed animals with plastic pellets ("beans"), which gave them a more flexible, life-like feel. Created by Ty Warner, these toys weren't just playthings but became a cultural phenomenon, sparking one of the first internet-driven collecting crazes.
During their peak, Beanie Babies were more than just toys; they were investments. Parents and collectors alike hunted for rare editions, hoping their acquisitions would soar in value. However, as the initial frenzy waned, so did interest and prices, leading many to wonder about the current state of Beanie Baby collecting.
Market Dynamics
The market for Beanie Babies today is a fascinating study in nostalgia, collectibility, and economic fluctuation. While the bubble of the '90s has certainly burst, a niche market persists for certain rarities. The dynamics have shifted from widespread mania to a more subdued, selective collector interest, with prices reflecting this change.
Factors Influencing Value
Several key factors impact the value of Beanie Babies, including:
Grade: The condition is paramount; mint condition with original tags is what collectors want.
Rarity: Limited editions or those with production errors fetch higher prices.
Demand: Popularity of specific characters can drive up value.
Provenance: Historical significance or interesting stories attached to a Beanie Baby can increase interest.
Risks and Rewards
Collecting Beanie Babies, like any collectible, comes with its own set of risks and rewards. While finding a rare, sought-after edition could result in a significant payoff, the fluctuating market means there's also a risk of not recouping your investment.
Does anybody buy Beanie Babies today?
Yes, but the market is more selective. The days of easy sales are gone, replaced by a market of dedicated collectors and enthusiasts. Challenges include a decrease in active dealers and changing collector demographics.
Yet, not all Beanie Babies have lost their sparkle. Certain editions—like the first-edition Princess Diana bear or Peanut the royal blue elephant—can still command impressive prices.
Learn More About Beanie Babies Prices
For those interested in diving deeper into the world of Beanie Babies collecting or simply curious about the value of a childhood toy, iGuide’s Beanie Babies price guide is an invaluable resource. It offers up-to-date pricing information, helping you understand the current market values of your Beanie Babies. Learn more.
The iGuide Demand Grade is a ranking system for rating market demand of personal property including art, antiques, collectibles, and other real assets. First developed in October 1998 for Warren's Movie Poster Price Guide, it's a letter grade from A+ to F. The grade represents our opinion of market demand after applying criteria in our demand ranking analysis. The methodology involves evaluating and ranking demand levels without considering price elasticity (the degree to which a change in price influences demand). It focuses solely on the popularity and desirability of an item among market participants. We consider factors like sales velocity, customer interest, market trends, and price fluctuations. We utilize real sales data, tracking price changes and sales volume to assess whether an item is in high, moderate, or low demand based on actual market behavior. Our goal is to help market participants gauge current demand and make better buying, pricing, and marketing decisions.
A+
10 on a scale of 1 to 10. (extremely high demand)
Sells within 1 day of hitting the market.
A
9 on a scale of 1 to 10. (very high)
2-5 days to sell.
A-
8 on a scale of 1 to 10. (high) 6-10 days to sell.
B+
7 on a scale of 1 to 10. (strong)
11-29 days to sell. On a scale of 1 to 10, it is a 7.
B
6 on a scale of 1 to 10. (above average)
30-60 days to sell.
B-
5 on a scale of 1 to 10. (average)
61-90 days to sell.
C+
4 on a scale of 1 to 10. (below average)
91-120 days.
C
3 on a scale of 1 to 10. (low)
181-365 days to sell.
C-
2 on a scale of 1 to 10. (very low)
366-730 days to sell.
D
1 on a scale of 1 to 10. (extremely low)
730+ days to sell.
F
0 on a scale of 1 to 10. (no demand)
No demand at any price. Worthless. Write off.
There are many different systems in economics for rating the demand of products. Here are a few of them:
Diffusion of Innovation (DOI) Curve: This model ranks demand by adoption stages: Innovators, Early Adopters, Early Majority, Late Majority, and Laggards.
S-curve Model: Describes product adoption in terms of low initial growth, followed by rapid growth, and then a plateau. This helps track demand over time.
Sales Data-Based Rating Systems
Sell-through Rate (STR): Measures the proportion of inventory sold within a specific period. Higher STR means stronger demand.
Weeks of Supply (WOS): Measures how long current stock will last based on current sales rates.
Stock Turnover Rate: How quickly stock is replenished and sold, indicating high or low demand.
Consumer Sentiment Indicators
Net Promoter Score (NPS): While originally used for customer satisfaction, a high NPS can also signal strong demand for products that people are likely to recommend.
Search Engine Data & Social Media Trends: The number of searches or mentions on platforms like Google, Twitter, or Instagram is often used to predict demand surges.
Demand Forecasting Models
Quantitative Forecasting: Uses historical data to predict future demand, such as time series analysis or regression models.
Qualitative Forecasting: Relies on expert opinion, market research, and surveys to gauge demand.
Retail-Specific Ratings
ABC Analysis: Ranks products based on sales volume. Category A items have the highest demand, B moderate demand, and C the lowest.
Pareto Analysis (80/20 Rule): Identifies that 20% of products often generate 80% of demand and revenue.
Pool balls are more than just essential equipment for billiards—they can also be collectible and valuable. From vintage sets to high-end tournament-grade balls, certain billiard balls hold significant value in the market. While some sets appreciate in price, others may not be as sought after depending on their condition, brand, and rarity.
Is there a market for Billiard Balls? One aspect of pool ball collecting that many people are unaware of is the potential monetary value of certain sets. The market for billiard balls has fluctuated over the years, influenced by brand reputation, materials, and demand among players and collectors. High-end brands such as Aramith and Brunswick tend to retain strong resale value, while lower-quality or mass-produced sets generally depreciate.
The Market For Billiard Balls
The market for billiard balls is driven by collectors, professional players, and billiards enthusiasts. However, the demand for billiard balls is weak unless they are in "Mint Condition" and maintain their original finish and balance. Sets with chipped balls, discoloration, or missing components may struggle to find buyers. Specialty billiards retailers, estate sales, and online marketplaces serve as primary trading venues for high-value pool ball sets.
Factors Affecting Price
Condition is crucial when determining a pool ball set’s value. A set in excellent condition with its original finish and weight balance will fetch significantly higher prices than one with wear and damage. Brand and rarity also play key roles—high-end brands and limited-edition sets from well-known manufacturers often command higher prices. Materials and craftsmanship influence pricing as well, with phenolic resin sets being more valuable than standard polyester sets. Demographics also impact value, as serious players and collectors drive demand for high-quality and vintage pool ball sets.
Buying and Selling Billiard Balls
For those interested in buying and selling billiard balls, authenticity and condition are key. Ensuring that a set retains its original specifications is crucial, as refinished or altered sets may lose value. Market trends fluctuate, and certain models may increase in value over time while others depreciate. Knowledgeable buyers can find profitable opportunities through estate sales, auctions, and specialty billiards shops.
Who buys Billiard Balls today?
Collectors, competitive players, and enthusiasts continue to drive the market for high-end pool ball sets. However, as older collectors phase out, demand for certain vintage sets may decrease. High-end buyers seek rare, tournament-quality balls, while casual players look for affordable, functional options. Despite changing trends, the demand for well-crafted billiard balls remains steady in the billiards industry.
Not all billiard balls have monetary value, but some remain highly sought after. Examples include antique ivory balls, limited-production sets, and those made by prestigious manufacturers.
Top 5 Billiard Balls to hunt for
1. Antique Ivory Billiard Balls – Rare and historically significant, these sets can fetch $10,000+. 2. Aramith Tournament Balls – Preferred by professionals, often valued at $500+ per set. 3. Brunswick Centennial Balls – A premium set known for its durability and classic design, frequently selling for $1,000+. 4. Vintage Hyatt Billiard Balls – Highly collectible early plastic resin sets, valued at $1,500+. 5. Limited-Edition Custom Balls – Special-themed or artist-designed sets can range from $300 to several thousand dollars.
Learn More About The Value of your Billiard Balls
iGuide’s appraisal service is a good way to discover the value of your billiard balls. Learn more.
Before you sell your Hummels, you should learn how much they are worth, which are common swill, and which (if any) are rare treasures. The price guides here at iGuide can help you sort this out.
Once you know what you have and how much it is worth, here are some of the best ways to sell your figurines:
1. Online Marketplaces
Etsy is a popular online marketplace for Hummels. It has a large community of buyers and sellers, making it a great place to find potential customers for your collection. Google ETSY.
eBay is an online marketplace where you can sell a wide variety of items, including Goebel Hummel figurines. It has a large user base and a variety of features to help you list and sell your treasures.
Amazon is another online marketplace where you can sell Hummels. It has a large user base and a variety of features to help you list and sell your goods.
Facebook Marketplace is a good option for selling Hummels locally. It is easy to use and allows you to connect with potential buyers in your area.
2. Local Specialty Shops
Many local antique shops buy Hummels. This can be a convenient way to sell your collection, but you may not get as much money as you could selling online.
3. Shows and Conventions
Antique shows are a great way to meet collectors and potentially sell. These events are often held in cities and towns around the country.
4. Garage Sales
Garage sales are a good way to sell Hummels locally. However, you may not get as much money as you could selling online or at a fair.
5. Consignment Shops
Some consignment shops sell Hummels. This can be a good option if you don't want to deal with the hassle of selling your collection yourself. However, you may not get as much money as you could selling online.
Tips for Selling
Research the value of your Hummels This will help you set a fair price. The iGuide Hummel price guide is a good place to research the value or to request an appraisal.
It's all about the Grade The condition of your Hummels will affect their value. You can use a grading guide like the one here on iGuide to grade your treasures.
Clean your collection Clean items are more valuable than dirty ones. But be careful! You can use an electric toothbrush with a cleaning solution to clean your items.
Take good photos Good photos will make your goods more appealing to potential buyers.
Write detailed descriptions Include information about the item including key descriptive data and grade.
Be patient It may take some time to sell your collection. Don't get discouraged if you don't sell right away.
By following these tips, you can increase your chances of selling your goods for a good price.
The use of credits or tokens as a form of currency within platforms allows users to pay for access to premium services, content, or features without the burden of yet another recurring monthly subscription fee. It also enables a "micro-payments" strategy. This strategy provides a flexible and user-centric approach to monetization, especially popular in Software as a Service (SaaS), digital platforms, and online services sectors.
Key Elements of the Strategy
Flexibility: Users can purchase credits in advance and use them at their discretion, offering a pay-as-you-go model that is often more attractive than fixed subscriptions.
User Engagement: By allowing users to decide how and when to spend their credits, platforms can increase engagement and customer satisfaction.
Incremental Revenue: This model encourages users to keep returning and spending on the platform, providing a steady revenue stream.
Scalability: Adding new services or content for users to spend credits on can scale revenue growth effectively.
Successful Examples
Several industries broadly apply this model effectively:
Gaming Platforms: Many online games use credits for in-game purchases, character upgrades, or to unlock special content.
Cloud Computing Services: Platforms like Amazon Web Services, Google Cloud, and Microsoft Azure adopt a pay-as-you-go model where users pay for the compute resources they consume, akin to spending credits.
Online Education Platforms: Sites like Udemy or Coursera allow users to buy courses individually, offering a form of credit spending on education.
Stock Media: Shutterstock and Getty Images let users purchase credits to download images or videos, providing flexible access to media assets.
API Services: Similar to Metals-Api, many API providers use a credit system where developers pay for the amount of API calls they make, optimizing costs based on usage.
Future of Credit-Based Monetization in SaaS
The credit-based monetization strategy presents a promising future for revenue generation in the SaaS and digital services landscape. Its flexibility caters to the growing demand for personalized and user-driven consumption models. As customers increasingly seek control over their spending and access to services, platforms that offer granular, usage-based pricing models like credits will likely see higher engagement and customer loyalty.
This model also aligns with the broader trends of digital transformation and the subscription economy, where users are accustomed to paying for exactly what they use rather than blanket access. As technology continues to evolve, we can expect to see more innovative applications of this strategy, potentially integrating with emerging technologies like blockchain for transparent and secure transactions.
In conclusion, the credit-based model offers a scalable, flexible, and user-focused approach to monetization that can significantly enhance customer satisfaction and loyalty while providing a steady revenue stream for SaaS and digital platforms. Its adaptability and alignment with current consumer preferences suggest it will continue to play a crucial role in the future of SaaS revenue generation.
As one of the leading buyers of sterling silver flatware in America, we get hundreds of requests for purchase offers every month. We love the opportunities, but sometimes the description of the collection lacks detail and thus delays our response. We respond most quickly to those who have included the information we need.
Caution: Before making your list, please verify that your flatware is marked STERLING (read our article about this here: http://www.soldster.com/learn-about/Article.aspx?id=199).
When preparing to sell your sterling silver flatware, please provide the following information in your inventory list:
Maker Name:
Pattern Name:
Inventory List:
Type Length Quantity Solid Sterling or Partial Stainless
Teaspoon 6" 12 solid
Dinner Knives 9" 12 blades are marked stainless
Dinner Forks 7-1/2" 12 solid SS
etc
etc
It is not enough simply to state the quantity of each piece you have. Within a given pattern, take PRELUDE for example, the size of the various pieces varied over the years, and this definitely affects value. We can often date a piece simply by its length! So, size DOES matter when it comes to sterling flatware.
Armed with a well-prepared inventory list, we can make an intelligent offer without requiring you to ship your flatware to us first.
Good Luck! We look forward to the opportunity to do business with you!
For over 130 years, Case knives have been trusted companions for farmers, ranchers, cowboys, and everyday folks alike. But the story behind these iconic American blades goes deeper than just utility. It's a tale of family, craftsmanship, and an unwavering commitment to quality.
From Wagon to Workshop
The saga begins in 1889, when the Case brothers – William Russell, Jean, John, and Andrew – started selling handcrafted knives from their horse-drawn wagon in upstate New York. Their dedication to quality quickly built a reputation, leading to the formation of the Case Brothers Cutlery Company in 1900.
Taking Root in Bradford
In 1905, seeking expansion, the company relocated to Bradford, Pennsylvania, where it remains today. John Russell Case, son of William Russell, formed W.R. Case & Sons. Under his leadership, the company thrived, establishing its "Tested XX" trademark, signifying blades tempered twice for superior strength.
A Legacy Forged in War and Peace
Case knives played a crucial role in both World Wars, supplying sturdy pocketknives and utility blades to American soldiers. These wartime models are now prized collectibles. And beyond battlefields, Case knives became ubiquitous tools for farmers, ranchers, and anyone needing a reliable cutting companion.
More Than Just Blades
While pocket knives remain their core, Case expanded its offerings over the years. From fixed-blade hunting knives to kitchen cutlery and commemorative collectibles, the brand caters to diverse needs while maintaining its focus on quality and craftsmanship.
Carrying on the Tradition
Today, W.R. Case & Sons remains family-owned and operated, carrying on the legacy of its founders. Each knife is a testament to their commitment to quality, using time-tested techniques and premium materials. And as they forge ahead, Case knives continue to be more than just tools, they're symbols of American heritage, passed down through generations and trusted by those who value tradition and craftsmanship.
So, the next time you pull out your Case knife, remember the rich history it embodies. It's not just a blade, it's a piece of Americana, ready to tackle any task, big or small.
The iGuide Grading Guide provides several layers of depth to appeal to both new and advanced collectors alike. We suggest "report card" grades which we hope will help non-experts. Grading should be easy but too often for new collectors it is not. A term like MINT is vague for newbies. But grade A makes sense to anybody who has ever received a report card. The iGuide Grading Guide provides our so-called "report card" letter grades from A+ to F, as well our our 1 to 10 numeric grades (on a scale of 1 to 10) and then the standard grades used by many collector books. These grades attempt to describe preservation state. They follow rules used by collectors for years to keep things clear when buying, selling, or talking about items. Grading helps with consistency in buying, selling, and advertising. Proper grading takes a lot of experience and is more an art than a science, so we hope this guide will help you get started as you learn how to MAKE THE GRADE.
Grading for beginners
Like coins, stamps, sports cards, movie posters, and everything else that people collect, collector knives are valued according to condition. Because human beings prize things that glitter, the more like new it is, the more collectors will pay for it. Seems simple enough, right? WRONG! Because arguing about condition actually means negotiating price, buyers and sellers often have a hard time agreeing on grade. But, fortunately, standard terms exist that everyone agrees on (what those terms mean is another story). Sadly, it takes years of looking at thousands of variations before you can truly become a knowledgeable grader. So how do you know what grade it is in if you are new at making the grade? Let me suggest that you start simple and then hone in on the final grade.
First let's look at some general terms that could be used to describe the condition of these things, then we'll cover some specialized terms that dealers and collectors use.
PERFECT
We all know what this is, something in brand new condition. A brand new knife that has never been used is probably in PERFECT, like-new condition. The term for perfect condition is MINT. Although some dealers will try to convince you that 30 or 40 year old knives are not graded as strictly as newer ones, I would not believe it if I were you. When it comes to PERFECT, new is new, period.
ABOVE AVERAGE
If someone bought a knife, handled it carefully once or twice, and then carefully filed it away, it is in ABOVE AVERAGE condition. We refer to knives in above average condition as NEAR MINT (abbreviated NM).
AVERAGE
The term collectors use to describe AVERAGE condition is VERY GOOD (or VG for short). Since knives were meant to be used and carried, those that have been handled are in average condition. Minor scratches, wear, pin cracks — these are flawsthat are typical from normal use and is both common and acceptable in an AVERAGE USED knife.
BELOW AVERAGE
Knives that you owned when you were six years old are probably in BELOW AVERAGE condition because you probably beat the @@#$!! out of them. And they look it! The knife is still complete but with heavy blade wear and probably lots of scratches from careless storage. In other words, knives in BELOW AVERAGE condition are ROUGH! Collectors describe knives in below average condition as GOOD. Actually, there's nothing good about it other than the fact that you have a copy to keep until a better one comes along.
POOR
Better known by the technical term "crap" first coined by a dealer named Steve Geppi. A knife in poor condition looks like it was rescued from the trash can of history...and probably was. You know you have handled a poor condition knife when you rush to wash your hands afterwards. Poor means TERRIBLE...it may not even work!
Now that you know the five basic ranges of condition, it's much easier to focus in on exactly what the real grade is. Try it yourself. Take a stack and grade them. Is the first one just like the day you bought it except for a tiny spec on the blade? Then it's not PERFECT, but you could certainly say it's ABOVE AVERAGE. Put it in the ABOVE AVERAGE stack. Does the next one look carried and sharpened? Put it in the AVERAGE stack. Continue sorting into basic grades. When you are done, refer to the following detailed grading descriptions. Start at the lowest grade and work your way up. Think in terms of report grades A+ to F with AVERAGE being a C, or a 10 scale from 0 to 10, with AVERAGE being a 5. The one that sounds closest to the grade of the item in hand is the actual grade.
Now let's look at the technical grading terms collectors use to describe condition. At trade shows and on eBay you will see these grades and grade-codes used to indicate grade. Memorize them, learn what they mean, and then you can start MAKING THE GRADE like a pro.
Unused Grades
The term UNUSED refers to a knife that has never been used. It has never been sharpened, carried, handled and is in unused condition. The unused grades range from a perfect A+ to an unused but showing faint signs of wear from opening/closing but without sharpening (B).
Unused knives can be divided into these major grades:
A+
Mint in Box (OMP)
On a scale of 1 to 10, it is a 10.
Perfect, i.e. - in OMP (original manufacture's packaging) where applicable. Brilliant, unusually bright, LIKE NEW. Example is in brand new condition, includes the original box and all original paperwork (if applicable) included in the box at the time of original purchase. The box itself is in new to almost new condition and exhibits few if any flaws. The knife inside the box is in brand new condition and has no noticeable flaws.
A
Mint or aka M
On a scale of 1 to 10, it is a 9.
Almost like new to new. Never used, never carried, never sharpened. No cracks, no wobble, excellent snap; may be lacking the OMP (original manufacturer's packaging). Extremely fine, Superb. Example is in almost like new condition. The box itself is in excellent condition but may possess a minor flaws such as corner dings, small creases in the box or even small scratches on the box.
A-
Near Mint or NM
On a scale of 1 to 10, it is a 8.
Almost perfect. Never used, never carried, never sharpened. No cracks, no wobble, excellent snap; may be lacking the OMP (original manufacturer's packaging). Deep, rich color with excellent original patina and gloss. May exhibit one or two minor carbon spots on a backspring, bolster, or blade.
B+
Very Fine or VF
On a scale of 1 to 10, it is a 7.
An exceptional example. Acceptable to all but the most finicky collector. This is a bright, clean, extremely fine example. Never used, never carried, never sharpened. Could possibly have a pin crack (minor), but has no wobble, and has excellent blade snap; may be lacking the OMP (original manufacturer's packaging). The item may have very minor spotting but no signs of sharpening. The backspring exhibit carbon spotts or a minor scratch or two. Otherwise, the item has no major defects but may not be quite as bright as Near Mint. May or may not have original box.
B
Fine Very Fine or FVF
On a scale of 1 to 10, it is a 6.
Showing signs of storage wear. Never used, never carried, never sharpened. Could possibly have a pin crack (minor), but has no wobble, and has excellent blade snap. Although this example may or may not include the original box (if applicable, many early knives never came in a box), it also may or may not include original paperwork (if applicable) included in the box at the time of original purchase. If the box itself is present, it may not be in ideal condition The box most likely has several creases, tears, scratches, etc.
An unused Case knife with a pin crack. Pin cracks are common with Case yellow composites.
Used Grades
Knives that have been sharpened, carried, handled and played with by the children are considered USED. They have been in circulation, meaning they have been handled, fondled, admired, and carried (like they were supposed to be) sometimes for decades. As a result, they are worn to one degree or another. Collectors have established the following grades for rating just how used an item actually is:
C+
Fine or F
On a scale of 1 to 10, it is a 5.
Still fine without chips, cracks, color flakes or visible damage of any kind, but aging in a more significant amount than in the FVF grade. The knife has been carried, sharpened, handled and is obviously used. It may have a crack or pin cracks, may have a weak blade snap. Possible minor wobble may be noticeable when testing the blades.
C
Very Good or VG
On a scale of 1 to 10, it is a 4.
An average used knife. Knife has been sharpened. It has blade wobble. It has a crack or several pin cracks. It is obviously USED. The blades are worn and possibly slightly pitted, although not to an extreme degree. This example may exhibit color flake or blade crazing, or bolster/backspring scratches but is complete without major damage or repairs.
A heavily worn Case knife exhibiting blade pitting.
C-
Good to Very Good or GD/VG
On a scale of 1 to 10, it is a 3.
Very much used. Beginning to show signs of significant wear. It has blade wobble. It has a crack or several pin cracks. It has been heavily sharpened over the years.
D
Good or GD
On a scale of 1 to 10, it is a 2.
A worn, crazed, distressed example. This example is in visibly worn condition, and could have flaws which may include small scratches or surface wear. However, this does not includes broken or chipped blades or missing pieces. Typically a filler-copy only.
D-
Fair or FR
On a scale of 1 to 10, it is a 1.
The lower grades are separated by degrees of damage. The accumulation of many defects lowers the item from the D grade down to D-. This example is in used, displayed or battered condition. It has been heavily sharpened and may contain scratches, blade wear, chips, dings or even small cracks.
F
Poor or PR
On a scale of 1 to 10, it is a 0.
Extremely worn, damaged or incomplete, although such should be noted. This example is in distressed condition...
The Franklin Mint is a private corporation based in Exton, Pennsylvania which markets collectibles of its own designs. It was founded by Joseph Segel. The company started by marketing privately-minted gold and silver commemorative rounds and medallions, but quickly branched out into other collectibles. In the 1960s the price of silver rose, causing all silver coins to be removed from circulation. The Nevada casinos used silver dollars in their slot machines, which were soon worth more than a dollar. The Franklin Mint was one of the earliest and largest minters of replacement slot machine tokens.
It minted in its own production facility numerous sets of coins-of-the-realm, theme-based medals and ingots, selling them on the subscription plan, with buyers getting a monthly shipment and invoice. Franklin Mint struck issues in all the different precious and semi-precious metals. American history and art masterpiece themes were predominant, with space and important persons and other topics also quite popular. Sets were often limited by the number of subscribers by a cut-off date, or a fixed mintage, resulting in "limited editions."
Prices were fairly reasonable, compared to the cost of silver, and often tens of thousands of sets were sold. Custom wood cases, fancy packaging and certificates appealed to collectors, and the market boomed. However, silver prices climbed, making the cost of larger items high, and replacement bronze and pewter issues did not appeal to collectors as much.
From 1973 to 2000, the Franklin Mint had a division called the Franklin Library, which produced hundreds of editions of classic works of literature in fine bindings.
In 1983, and to much success, The Franklin Mint entered the die-cast car market with the 1935 Mercedes Benz 500K Roadster. In the following years, Franklin Mint produced numerous designs including the Rolls-Royce Silver Ghost, one of Franklin Mint's better-selling models.
Collector knives, figurines, plates, Monopoly sets, chess sets and board games, plaques, coins, medals, and other collectibles have been issued over the years by The Franklin Mint. The Franklin Mint was heavily reliant upon direct mail and media print ads for sales. Advertisements for Franklin Mint collectibles—including the Civil War Commemorative Chess Set among thousands of other items—were once ubiquitous in popular magazines.
Currently The Franklin Mint has divested itself of minting capacity, and has downsized, and is now mostly a producer/marketer of die-cast models.
On October 17, 2006, The Franklin Mint announced it was sold by Roll International Corp to a number of private investors including M. Moshe Malamud and Steven Sisskind, chairman and chief executive respectively from The Morgan Mint, and David Salzman, a Hollywood producer. The sale closed on August 31, 2006 and no price was announced. The new ownership plans to return Franklin Mint to its former market-leading status and offer the full lineup of collectibles including coins and medallics. Many of the Franklin Mint's most recent Resnick era products are pop-culture icon themed, for example porcelain plates featuring images of John Wayne among many others.
Alloy - Coin metal consisting of two or more metals which are melted and mixed together. Example --- the 5 cent nickel is an alloy consisting of 95% copper and 5% nickel.
Alteration - An illegally changed coin feature (such as date or Mint mark) to make it appear like a more valuable coin. Example --- the 1922 penny is worth 30 times more with the Mint mark "D" than with it. Many 1922-D coins have been unethically altered to remove the Mint mark "D" hoping to sell it to an unknowing buyer.
ANA - Abbreviation for American Numismatics Association, established in 1891. Largest organization of coin collectors in the world.
Annealing - The manufacturing process of heating the coin metal (planchet) just before striking. This softens the metal enough to receive the impression.
ANA - American Numismatic Society.
Bag Mark - A scratch or ding caused by coins rubbing against each other in a Mint bag. Very common, especially with large heavy silver coins.
Bit - An old Mexican coin circulated in America during the 1800's. This coin was sometimes divided into sections. A "bit" was one eighth of the coin, two "bits" was one quarter of the coin, therefor USA quarter dollars began to be called "two bits."
Blackbook - Pocket size price guide and reference book of USA coins. Updated and published annually since 1962.
Blanking - The manufacturing process of passing the coin metal strip through a punch press to "bang" out the round metal coin blanks (planchets).
Blemish - A minor nick, mark, dent or discoloration on the coin's surface.
Bluebook - Handbook of USA coins published annually since 1941. Gives average prices dealers pay for coins.
Broadstrike - A coin with a larger than normal diameter. This is caused by the coin being struck with the protective collar in place.
Brockage - A coin error in which one side of the coin has a "mirror image" of the other side. This is caused by the failure of the coin to be automatically ejected from the holder on the coin press.
Bronze - An alloy metal consisting of copper and tin. Zinc is sometimes included.
Bullion - Coins produced of high purity metal, such as 999 fine silver or gold coins. Also, blocks of pure gold or silver.
Cast Coin - A coin manufactured by a process of pouring metal into a mold, rather than die striking.
Quarter Eagle - A USA $2.50 face value gold coin, minted from 1796 to 1929.
Redbook - A guidebook of USA coins published and updated annually since 1947, Gives average selling prices by dealers for USA coins.
Reeded Edge - Grooved lines that run vertically around the coin. Used on all modern USA coins from dime to dollar to discourage dishonest practice of clipping off part of the metal.
Old Newbury Crafters of Newburyport and Amesbury, Massachusetts, was formally established in 1932, but began as a joint venture in 1915. They specialized in hand-wrought patterns, including Moulton and Old Newbury. All hand-wrought pieces have been marked by the craftsmen who made them since 1965. Some pattern names: Moulton, Oak Leaf and Old Newbury.
If your Lincoln Memorial penny has a date before 1982, it is made of 95% copper. If the date is 1983 or later, it is made of 97.5% zinc and plated with a thin copper coating. For pennies minted in 1982, when both copper and zinc cents were made, the safest and best way to tell their composition is to weigh them. Copper pennies weigh 3.11 grams, whereas the zinc pennies weigh only 2.5 grams. Be sure to use a scale that is accurate enough to detect the tenth of a gram (0.10) or better. If you weigh a zinc penny on a scale that can only register full 1 gram increments, the penny will usually display 3 grams, since the scale rounds the 2.5 gram zinc penny upwards to 3. The wrong type of scale can be misleading when you are trying to sort copper and zinc pennies.
Alaska silver represents an intriguing chapter in the history of metalware, distinguished by its mystery and commercial appeal. Developed as an economical alternative to solid silver, this base metal of undisclosed composition has intrigued both consumers and historians alike. Its primary allure lies in its ability to mimic the appearance of genuine silver, offering the look and feel of luxury at a significantly reduced cost.
Composition and Purpose
While the exact composition of Alaska silver remains a trade secret, its introduction to the market was driven by the demand for affordable silverware options. Advertisements from the era highlight its design to imitate the aesthetic qualities of solid silver, enabling households to enjoy the elegance of silverware without the associated expense. However, despite its visual appeal, Alaska silver's vulnerability to damage from prolonged contact with acid foods, fats, or grease underscores the compromises inherent in substituting genuine precious metals with more cost-effective materials.
Commercial Use and Legacy
Sears Roebuck & Co., a retail giant of the time, adopted Alaska silver as a trade name for a line of silver-plated flatware. The company's 1908 catalog proudly introduced Alaska Metal as a special formula designed to replicate solid silver, emphasizing its lack of actual silver content. This marketing strategy tapped into consumer desires for affordable luxury, making silver-plated items accessible to a wider audience.
Conclusion
Alaska silver, with its blend of mystery and practicality, encapsulates a moment in consumer history where innovation met aspiration. As a material, it highlights the ongoing quest for alternatives to precious metals that do not sacrifice aesthetic value for cost-effectiveness. Although not without its limitations, Alaska silver's role in democratizing the appearance of luxury continues to offer valuable insights into the dynamics of consumer culture and the evolution of material science.
Buck began producing knives in 1961. Beginning in 1973 and continuing until 1985 they bear the model number as well as BUCK and the U.S.A. on the tang stamp. Starting in 1986, a year mark was added. So, knives with no date symbol are pre-1986. To find out the year of manufacture of your Buck knife, compare the symbol on your blade to the chart below.
Additional date information for the Buck 110 Folding Hunter and the 112 Ranger:
1974 to 1980: one dot on either side of the model # (example: .110.)
1980: two dots on the right side of the model # (example: .110..)
1981 to 1986: two dots on either side of the model # (example: ..110..)
YEAR
SYMBOL
1968
BUCK over USA
1973
Added model # to above
1986
<
1987
>
1988
^
1989v
V
1990
X
1991
+
1992
-
1993
/
1994
\
1995
C
1996
Backwards "C"
1997
Upside down "U"
1998
U
1999
A squared "C"
2000
Backwards squared "C"
2001
Upside down squared "U"
2002
anvil
2003
A "T" symbol
2004
Upside down "T"
2005
Idaho
2006
-|
2007
V
2008
^
2009
>
About Our Sponsor
This article is sponsored by 2nd Markets of Nashville, Tennessee. Recognized as one of the top buyers of Case knife collections in the United States, 2nd Markets offers expertise and passion for these classic collectibles. If you're looking to assess the value of your collection or find a new home for your knives, contact them. Google: 2ND MARKETS KNIFE BUYER or go to https://www.2ndmarkets.com/sell-knife-collection.aspx
The realm of collectibles is as vast as it is varied, encompassing items that range from the mundane to the extraordinary. Among the myriad players in this field, the Franklin Mint holds a distinct place, renowned for its wide array of collectibles that have captivated enthusiasts for decades. This article delves into the intricacies of collecting Franklin Mint items, examining the factors that influence their value and offering insights into the appraisal process.
The Franklin Mint: A Brief Overview
Founded in the mid-20th century, the Franklin Mint quickly rose to prominence as a purveyor of collectibles, ranging from coins and medals to dolls, die-cast cars, and jewelry. Its approach to marketing and creating limited edition items made it a household name among collectors. Despite facing financial difficulties and undergoing a bankruptcy reorganization in the early 2000s, the Franklin Mint has continued to operate, adapting to the changing landscape of collectibles.
The Value of Franklin Mint Collectibles
The valuation of Franklin Mint collectibles is a complex process, influenced by various factors including rarity, demand, condition, and the materials used in production. Collectibles made from precious metals, such as sterling silver or gold, often retain or increase in value over time. This appreciation is largely due to the intrinsic value of the materials themselves. On the other hand, items produced in more common materials without the allure of precious metals tend to depreciate, often selling for a fraction of their original issue price.
Precious Metal Items: Collections crafted from gold or silver represent the pinnacle of Franklin Mint collectibles in terms of investment. The value of these items usually don't match their original purchase price, but there are exceptions to this rule.
Non-Precious Metal Items: Collectibles made from non-precious materials, such as porcelain, resin, or common metals, are less likely to hold their value. The market for these items is driven more by sentimental value or the interests of niche collectors.
Market Dynamics and Collectibility
The collectibles market is dynamic, with trends and tastes evolving over time. Franklin Mint's broad range of offerings means that certain categories may experience fluctuations in popularity and, consequently, value. For example, limited edition plates or dolls that were highly sought after during their release might not command the same attention today.
Assessing the Condition and Authenticity
Condition plays a crucial role in the valuation of collectibles. Items in mint condition, with original packaging and certificates of authenticity, are more likely to attract higher prices. Collectors should be vigilant about preserving the condition of their items and obtaining documentation that verifies their authenticity.
Navigating the Secondary Market
The secondary market for Franklin Mint collectibles is vibrant, encompassing auction houses, online marketplaces, and private sales. Understanding this market is crucial for both buyers looking to acquire pieces and sellers hoping to find buyers for their collectibles. Prices can vary widely based on the venue and the manner in which items are sold.
In conclusion, the world of Franklin Mint collectibles is one of richness and diversity. While some items have seen their value appreciate, particularly those made from precious metals, others have not fared as well. The key to successful collecting lies in understanding the market, recognizing the factors that influence value, and making informed choices. Whether you're a seasoned collector or new to the hobby, the journey of collecting Franklin Mint items is one filled with discovery and potential rewards.
Learning More about the Value of Your Collection with iGuide's Appraisal Reports
For collectors seeking to appraise their Franklin Mint collectibles, iGuide's Appraisal Reports offer a valuable resource. These reports provide up-to-date market values based on real data, offering insights into current trends and valuations. Whether you're considering selling your collection or simply wish to understand its worth, an appraisal report can provide the information you need to make informed decisions.
The National Geographic Society in Washington, D.C. has published and circulated National Geographic Magazine every month since January 1896 (except for the years 1897 and 1917 when the magazine was published every other month). Nine issues were published between 1888 and 1891, before the magazine went monthly in 1896. Between 1891 and 1895, 27 so-called "brochures" were produced, making a total of 36 early publications. In those early years, the magazine covers were a red brick color. Altogether, there have been 6 different color designs up to the present.
The Colt Automatic Firearms, crafted by Colt's Patent Fire Arms Manufacturing Company (often abbreviated as Colt’s PT F.A. Mfg. Co.), hold a revered place in the history of firearms. With a storied past rooted in innovation and craftsmanship, Colt, headquartered in Hartford, Connecticut, became a cornerstone of American firearms manufacturing. For collectors and enthusiasts, understanding the significance of Colt’s automatic firearms is key to appreciating their historical and monetary value.
Early Beginnings of Colt
Samuel Colt founded the company in 1836, revolutionizing firearms with his groundbreaking revolver designs, such as the Colt Patterson. These early innovations not only established Colt’s reputation but also laid the foundation for its later success. As firearm technology evolved, so did Colt, transitioning by the late 19th and early 20th centuries to focus on semi-automatic and automatic firearms to meet the changing needs of militaries and civilians.
Key Colt Automatic Firearms
Colt Model 1900
Designed by the legendary John Browning, the Colt Model 1900 was Colt's first semi-automatic pistol. It introduced the .38 ACP cartridge, marking a pivotal moment in firearm technology and design.
Colt Model 1911
Widely considered Colt's most iconic firearm, the M1911, also designed by Browning, became the standard sidearm for U.S. military forces in 1911. This model served through decades of military campaigns and remains one of the most popular and collectible pistols worldwide.
Colt Thompson Submachine Gun
Commonly known as the "Tommy Gun," this submachine gun was manufactured by Colt under contract. Its notoriety during Prohibition and its significant role in World War II make it a highly coveted piece for collectors.
Colt M16/AR-15
Acquiring the rights to Eugene Stoner’s AR-15 design in 1959, Colt produced the M16, which became the standard-issue rifle for U.S. troops during the Vietnam War. This model’s military pedigree and modern popularity in the civilian market ensure its enduring appeal.
Colt’s Contribution to Firearm Innovation
One of Colt's greatest strengths was its collaboration with visionaries like John Browning, resulting in firearms that set global standards for performance and reliability. The company’s role in equipping U.S. military forces in both World Wars and subsequent conflicts solidified its reputation for quality and innovation.
The Hartford Connection
Colt’s impact extends beyond firearms to its cultural and industrial legacy in Hartford, Connecticut. The Colt Armory, featuring its iconic blue onion-shaped dome with a gold-painted Colt logo, remains a symbol of industrial excellence. At its peak, the factory provided thousands of jobs and became a cornerstone of Hartford’s economy.
Legacy and Collectibility
Colt’s automatic and semi-automatic firearms have left an indelible mark on history, influencing both military and civilian industries. For collectors, Colt’s historical models are not just firearms—they are pieces of American history. From the pioneering designs of the Colt Model 1900 to the battlefield-tested M1911 and M16, these firearms represent innovation, craftsmanship, and reliability.
Collectors value Colt firearms for their quality, historical significance, and enduring legacy. Whether you’re an experienced collector or new to the world of firearms, understanding the story behind Colt’s automatic firearms adds depth to their allure.
Have a Colt firearm?
If you have a Colt firearm or are curious about its value, our appraisal experts are here to help. Whether you own a Model 1900, M1911, or another piece of Colt history, we provide detailed evaluations to help you understand its historical and monetary worth. Reach out today to learn more about your collectible and its place in the storied legacy of Colt firearms.
Knives, from their humble beginnings as tools of survival, have evolved into objects of art, history, and personal interest. Knife collecting, spanning centuries and continents, reflects this multifaceted appeal. Delve into this intriguing world with us:
From Antiquity to Auction
While collecting artifacts like weapons and tools pre-dates recorded history, organized knife collecting is relatively recent. The late 19th century saw a surge in interest, fueled by growing affluence and fascination with American westward expansion. Early collectors focused on historical pieces like Bowie knives and military blades.
The 20th Century Boom
The 20th century witnessed a boom in knife collecting, with specialized clubs, publications, and shows emerging. New categories like custom knives and tactical folders entered the scene, broadening the collector's landscape.
Who Collects the Blade?
The diverse world of knife collectors attracts individuals with various motivations:
The Historian — Drawn to the past, they seek knives that tell stories of wars, cultures, or specific historical figures.
The Craftsman — Appreciating meticulous design and engineering, they value knives made with exceptional materials and techniques.
The Investor — Seeking financial gain, they focus on rare, limited-edition, or vintage pieces with potential market appreciation.
The Practical Collector — They combine interest with utility, collecting knives for everyday use while appreciating their value as collectibles.
Market Values: A Double-Edged Sword
The value of a collectible knife is influenced by several factors, including:
Age and Rarity — Older, rarer knives generally command higher prices.
Condition — Mint condition significantly increases value.
Maker and Provenance — Renowned makers and documented history raise desirability.
Market Trends — Popular patterns and materials fluctuate in value over time.
It's crucial to remember that the market value shouldn't solely drive collecting. Genuine passion, a thirst for knowledge, and appreciation for history and craftsmanship are the cornerstones of this fulfilling hobby.
The Future of Sharpened Passions
Knife collecting continues to evolve, embracing online communities and forums, attracting younger generations, and expanding its scope to include modern tactical and artistic designs. While market values remain significant, the true allure lies in the stories each blade whispers, the craftsmanship it embodies, and the connection it offers to history and heritage.
So, whether you're drawn to the practical edge of a pocketknife or the historical weight of a military dagger, the world of knife collecting welcomes you with a treasure trove of stories and blades waiting to be discovered. Just remember, the most valuable collection is the one built on genuine passion and appreciation.
The iGuide labeling app enables human review of iGuide's AI model. These instructions are for iGuide Editors who are charged with training the model. From here on out we will refer to the right-hand side as RHS and the left-hand side as LHS.
To Get Started
1. Go to iguide.net and log in.
2. In your dashboard, expand Editor and click soldster2iguide.
3. Scroll to the bottom and click the Start button.
4. In the category search, enter KNIFE, then select it using the down arrow. In the keyword search, enter HEN & ROOSTER.
Step 1 - Search for a Match
The Left-Hand Side (LHS) is a sales record from Soldster.com. Your task is to: 1. Either match the LHS to an existing iGuide page (RHS) or, if no exact match exists, create a new page. 2. If needed, update RHS fields. ! BE CAREFUL !
Do not choose No Match unless you are 100% certain there is no RHS exact match.
Example
LHS title: Hen & Rooster Germany 232-MOP Genuine Mother of Pearl Copperhead MINT Your action: In RHS search, enter 232 in the search field and click Go. (232 is a good search limiter in the title as it is the model number)
Results may include:
1. No match
2. A list of potential matches and a "No Match" option
3. A single item and a "No Match" option
In this example, it's #2 (a list of potential matches). None in the list is a match to the LHS so we will select No Match. Note: There are 232 copperheads but we need 232 MOP. That is a Mother of Pearl Copperhead. If the LHS has the year 2008 in the title but the RHS does not, even when everything else is the same, then it is not a match.
You may be prompted to combine multiple exact LHS listings. Always select Yes, Process All.
Step 2 - Review and Update LHS and RHS as Needed
1. LHS Task
Check the LHS GRADE field. Is it empty? If it has a value, is it correct based on comparison to the LHS Grade Description field? If both are correct, proceed to RHS tasks.
Side note: It is important to remove any superlatives like MINT, NEAR MINT, USED, RARE, etc. from the RHS. You will make sure the Grade matches on the LHS but don't add condition grades to anything on the RHS. 2. RHS Tasks
- Copy the Description Complete by pressing the blue move button.
- Country - Highlight Country on RHS and press the blue move button.
- Year - Highlight Year (lowest year if era range) on RHS and press the blue move button.
- Maker - Highlight maker name on RHS and press the blue move button.
- Model # - Highlight the model number on RHS and press the blue move button. Remove any dashes and use spaces instead. (e.g., 232-MOP should be 232 MOP).
- Era or Year - Highlight Era/Year (include era range if available) on RHS and press the blue move button.
- Type - Highlight Type on RHS and press the blue move button.
- Handle Material - Highlight the handle material on RHS and press the blue move button.
- Limited or Special Edition - Highlight the Edition (if available i.e. 'Cattle Rustler') on RHS and press the blue move button.
- Blade Material - Highlight the blade material (unless the material is Stainless) on RHS and press the blue move button.
- Check the price sold on RHS vs LHS BasePriceAsk. Press the blue move button if the field is not already populated.
- Press the Build button to populate the Description Brief field.
- Click Save & Exit to finish.
Step 3 - Photos (if exact match)
In this example, we are creating a new iGuide listing as there wasn't an exact match. In the scenario that you found an exact match. Make sure the LHS and RHS match and change RHS to match accordingly. Click Save and exit. Then you will reach the photo page. The RHS has the photos associated with the exact match/pre-existing iGuide listing. If the photos look good and showcase the item in MINT CONDITION hit Save and Exit and you are done. If the photos from the LHS are better and showcase the item in its best form. For example if the RHS has pictures of the item in Mint Condition with the box and the LHS has the item in mint condition without the box, then you would chose the RHS.
In the age of digital streaming and on-demand entertainment, a surprising trend has emerged, breathing new life into a seemingly obsolete medium: VHS video collecting. This resurgence is driven by a blend of nostalgia, the thrill of hunting rare finds, and the appeal of physical media in an increasingly digital world. Collectors and enthusiasts are scouring thrift stores, online marketplaces, and auctions to find hidden gems from the era when home video revolutionized movie watching.
One of the pivotal moments highlighting the financial potential of VHS collecting occurred during a Heritage Auctions event, where a 1983 white label VHS tape of Star Wars sold for an astonishing $32,500. This sale not only shattered expectations but also set a precedent for the value of rare and sought-after VHS tapes in the collectors' market.
However, it's important to note that not every VHS tape holds significant value. For a VHS video to be considered valuable, it must meet certain criteria, the most crucial being its condition. To fetch high prices, tapes must be in their original sealed condition, like new, and unused. This pristine state ensures the item's authenticity and preserves its historical and collectible integrity, making it highly desirable to collectors seeking to add to their curated collections.
The collectibility of VHS tapes extends beyond just the content of the films themselves. Factors such as cover art, rarity, and cultural significance play critical roles in determining a tape's value. Limited releases, unique cover art variations, and tapes associated with significant cultural moments or shifts in the entertainment industry often command higher prices.
The rise of VHS collecting speaks to a broader trend of valuing physical media in a period where digital formats dominate. Collectors appreciate the tangible connection to the past, the artistry of the packaging, and the ritual of analog film viewing. Moreover, the community aspect of collecting, where enthusiasts share knowledge, trade tapes, and celebrate their finds, adds a layer of social engagement that digital platforms struggle to replicate.
In conclusion, the rise of VHS video collecting is a fascinating intersection of nostalgia, culture, and investment. The remarkable sale of a 1983 Star Wars VHS tape at Heritage Auctions underscores the potential value of these collectibles, provided they are in mint condition. As this trend continues to grow, it reaffirms the enduring appeal of physical media and the lengths to which collectors will go to preserve and celebrate the history of film and entertainment.
All major collecting hobbies have an accepted grading system used by market participants to describe the state of preservation of the object in hand. Many of these grading systems
are based on some version of a 10-point scale. An item rated as a 10 is the highest degree of perfection, often called MINT, and an item rated as a 1 is in horrible condition,
virtually worthless except for extremely rare items and often called POOR.
I have outlined the various grades, and described the specifications for each. These grading definitions are intended to help you rate the condition of your pens.
As in any tangible asset, the better the grade of an item, the more valuable it is.
THE ART OF DESCRIPTION
When grading items, one should remember the goal: to paint an accurate picture in the mind of the potential buyer of what to expect upon receipt of the item. Of course, a picture is worth a
thousand words, and often a seller can include high-quality images to help describe the item, but too frequently an image does not clearly show all flaws. This is when a good grading description
becomes invaluable. The buyer relies on the seller's honesty and accuracy in disclosure. It is therefore incumbent upon the seller to do the best job possible.
This being said, writing a good grade description is an art not a science. One can be too brief, or too comprehensive, with equally bad effect. If too brief, the reader comes away with a
feeling of uncertainty which results in a negative buying decision. Too much detail, the buyer imagines the accumulation of flaws in the description
of every tiny flaw and imagines an item in horrible shape, when actually this is not the case. The same result occurs, a negative buying decision.
10 MINT or MINT IN BOX
A PERFECT 10! NEW. Brilliantly clean, crisp, bright, no scratches or flaws, deep color. The highest grade possible. Pens must have no evidence of wear visible upon close inspection.
The barrel, cap, nib, and clip all appear bright and clean, without dents, nicks, gouges, or flaws caused by everyday use. Basically, a LIKE NEW pen or pencil.
The MINT grade represents an unusual state of preservation and should NOT be used unless the item is LIKE NEW! An item that is NEW OLD STORE STOCK is MINT, of course, unless it has become
damaged due to poor storage over the years.
9 NEAR MINT
9 on a 10 scale. Could be used or unused. If the pen has been inked, describe it thus. The example is visually ALMOST LIKE NEW but has some minor flaw, scuff, or tiny flaw that prevents us from feeling comfortable with describing it as LIKE NEW.
There is no evidence of USAGE visible to the unaided eye. The pen is UNUSED and UNINKED.
8 CHOICE EXCELLENT
8 on a 10 scale. Used but almost like new. The example has a noticeable flaw or flaws, but such flaw does not seriosuly affect the eye appeal of the item. It may exhibit minor handling. Overall an ALMOST LIKE NEW but still used example.
7 EX+
7 on a 10 scale. Barely used. Used a few times. May exhibit barrel or cap wear. There may be slightly more handling than a EXTREMELY FINE example. The coloring must be above average, the cap must be almost perfect, any gold-plating (if any) must be unworn.
6 EXCELLENT
6 on a 10 scale. Above average, but used. Carefully used and not used. Bright and clean with visible faint scratches when help to light. Goldfill caps may exhibit minor rub wear but not to an extreme. The pen will have minor flaws as a result of minor handling. The coloring and brightness must be above average.
5 VERY GOOD
5 on a 10 scale. Average used. The pen will have faint scratches, light bite marks (one or two) may be present. Normal handling may be evident but there must be no damage.
4 GOOD VERY GOOD
4 on a 10 scale. The pen is clearly used and worn, but presentable. There may be several flaws but there will be NO parts missing such as a clip or finial.
3 GOOD
3 on a 10 scale. The pen is clearly used and heavily worn, but not damaged. Cracks, bite marks, scratches may be present, but not to an extreme. The interior parts must be present.
2 FAIR
2 on a 10 scale. A heavily used example. The pen is poorly centered and the margins come into the design. There may be counting marks, smudges or other signs of handling. There will be no folds through the design.
1 POOR
1 on a 10 scale. The lowest grade. A pen with problems that may include cracks, a stains, chips, bent nibs, or fading or even missing parts. There will be handling issues and in general the pen appears destroyed.
Case XX pocket knives, renowned for their quality and craftsmanship, have been a staple of American utility and tradition since the early 20th century. Produced by W.R. Case & Sons Cutlery Company, these knives are known for their durability and detailed designs. Collecting Case XX pocket knives is a long-standing hobby, with enthusiasts seeking vintage models, rare editions, and knives in pristine condition. However, the market for these knives has evolved, and their value is heavily dependent on specific factors.
One aspect of Case XX pocket knives most people are not aware of is the monetary value of certain rare or unique models. Is there a market for Case XX pocket knives? The answer is yes, but it is nuanced. While many collectors still cherish these knives, the demand for vintage models has weakened unless they are in new, sealed condition. Damaged or heavily worn knives generally have no value in today’s marketplace.
The Market For Case XX Pocket Knives
The market for Case XX pocket knives has fluctuated over the years. Historically, these knives were seen as both functional tools and collectible items. In the mid-20th century, the company produced a wide range of designs that appealed to hunters, outdoorsmen, and collectors alike. Today, nostalgia plays a significant role in sustaining the market, but modern knife designs and changing preferences have tempered demand. That said, rare models or those in exceptional condition can still command high prices.
Factors Affecting Price
Condition: Condition is critical. Case XX pocket knives in mint or near-mint condition with original packaging can fetch a premium. Damaged, heavily worn, or repaired knives typically have little to no value.
Supply: Limited-production models, commemorative editions, and knives with unique features are often more valuable due to scarcity.
Demand: Demand for vintage knives has declined among younger collectors but remains steady among older enthusiasts. Special designs tied to historical or cultural events may attract higher interest.
Demographics: The aging collector base and lack of younger buyers may contribute to declining prices for less rare models.
Buying and Selling Case XX Pocket Knives
Turning a passion for Case XX pocket knives into a side gig can be rewarding, but it comes with challenges. The risks include market fluctuations, counterfeit products, and finding buyers for common or heavily worn knives. On the flip side, discovering rare pieces in excellent condition can lead to significant profits, especially if you can identify and source undervalued items.
Who buys Case XX Pocket Knives today?
Collectors and specialized dealers are the primary buyers of Case XX pocket knives. These individuals often seek specific models to complete collections or resell to other enthusiasts. However, the market faces potential challenges as older collectors and dealers exit the scene due to age or waning interest, which could lead to a further decline in prices for common items.
Not all Case XX pocket knives have monetary value, but some are in high demand. Examples include rare patterns, knives with unique handle materials, or those tied to historical events.
Top 5 Case XX Pocket Knives to Hunt For
1. Case XX 10-Dot (1970): These knives are part of a limited production run and can fetch $300–$500 in excellent condition.
Video games have become one of the most popular and valuable collectibles in recent years. From classic cartridge games to modern limited-edition releases, certain video games have significantly appreciated in value. While many games are widely available, specific titles hold substantial worth based on rarity, condition, and demand.
Is there a market for Video Games? One aspect of video game collecting that many people are unaware of is the potential monetary value of certain titles. The market for video games has fluctuated over the years, influenced by collector interest, historical significance, and production rarity. First-run cartridges, factory-sealed games, and limited-edition releases tend to retain strong resale value, whereas mass-produced titles may not fetch high prices.
The Market For Video Games
The market for video games remains strong, with dedicated collectors and gaming enthusiasts driving demand. However, the demand for video games is weak unless they are in "Mint Condition" and include original packaging, manuals, and inserts. Loose discs or damaged cartridges typically hold little value. Specialty game stores, online marketplaces, and auction houses serve as primary trading venues for high-value video games.
Factors Affecting Price
Condition is crucial when determining a video game’s value. Games in near-mint condition with sealed packaging will fetch significantly higher prices than those with scratches or missing components. Rarity and edition also play a major role—limited-run releases, first editions, and misprints are highly desirable. Historical significance impacts value as well, with games that revolutionized the industry or had limited distribution attracting serious collectors. Demographics influence market trends, with retro gaming fans and nostalgia-driven buyers fueling demand for older titles.
Buying and Selling Video Games
For those interested in buying and selling video games, authenticity and condition are key. Ensuring that a game retains its original components and verifying authenticity through reputable sources is crucial, as reproductions and counterfeit copies can diminish value. Market trends fluctuate, and certain games may increase in value over time while others remain stable. Knowledgeable collectors can find profitable opportunities through gaming conventions, specialty game stores, and online auctions.
Who buys Video Games today?
Collectors, gaming enthusiasts, and investors continue to drive the market for video games. However, as older collectors downsize their collections, demand for specific games may shift. High-end buyers seek rare and pristine-condition games, while casual gamers look for affordable playable copies. Despite changing trends, interest in video games remains strong, particularly for historically significant and rare editions.
Not all video games have monetary value, but some remain highly sought after. Examples include early console titles, factory-sealed games, and rare promotional items.
Top 5 Video Games to hunt for
1. Super Mario Bros. (1985) - Sealed First Print – A rare first-print sealed copy sold for over $2 million at auction. 2. The Legend of Zelda (1987) - Early NES Edition – A highly collectible game, often selling for $50,000+ in mint condition. 3. Stadium Events (1987) - NES – One of the rarest North American NES games, valued at over $100,000. 4. Pokémon Red & Blue (1998) - First Edition Sealed – Early factory-sealed copies have reached $10,000+. 5. EarthBound (1995) - Complete in Box – A cult classic RPG with complete copies selling for $5,000+.
Learn More About The Value of your Video Games
iGuide’s appraisal service is a good way to discover the value of your video games. Learn more.
Andy Warhol prints have remained a staple in the art world, admired for their bold colors, pop culture references, and historical significance. From limited-edition screen prints to rare artist proofs, certain Andy Warhol prints have significantly appreciated in value. While many Warhol prints are widely available, only specific pieces hold substantial worth based on rarity, condition, and demand.
Is there a market for Andy Warhol Prints? One aspect of Warhol print collecting that many people are unaware of is the potential monetary value of certain editions. The market for Warhol prints has remained strong over the years, influenced by art market trends, auction results, and collector interest. Limited-edition prints, signed works, and early production pieces tend to retain strong resale value, whereas mass-produced reprints may not fetch high prices.
The Market For Andy Warhol Prints
The market for Andy Warhol prints remains strong, with art collectors, museums, and pop culture enthusiasts driving demand. However, the demand for Warhol prints is weak unless they are in "Mint Condition" and come with proper documentation such as Certificates of Authenticity. Prints with fading, creases, or unauthorized reproductions typically hold little value. High-end galleries, art auctions, and online marketplaces serve as primary trading venues for valuable Andy Warhol prints.
Factors Affecting Price
Condition is crucial when determining an Andy Warhol print’s value. A print in near-mint condition with authentication documents will fetch significantly higher prices than those with damage or signs of wear. Rarity and edition also play a major role—small-run limited editions, artist proofs, and signed works are highly desirable. Provenance impacts value as well, with prints that have a direct link to Warhol’s Factory or known collectors attracting higher bids. Demographics influence market trends, with longtime Warhol fans and contemporary art investors seeking unique and well-preserved pieces.
Buying and Selling Andy Warhol Prints
For those interested in buying and selling Andy Warhol prints, authenticity and condition are key. Ensuring that a print retains its original colors and verifying authenticity through reputable sources is crucial, as reproductions and unauthorized copies can diminish value. Market trends fluctuate, and certain prints may increase in value over time while others remain stable. Knowledgeable collectors can find profitable opportunities through gallery sales, art fairs, and major auction houses.
Who buys Andy Warhol Prints today?
Collectors, modern art investors, and pop culture enthusiasts continue to drive the market for Andy Warhol prints. However, as older collectors downsize their collections, demand for specific pieces may shift. High-end buyers seek rare and pristine-condition prints, while emerging art collectors look for accessible yet valuable pieces. Despite changing trends, interest in Andy Warhol’s work remains strong, particularly for historically significant and rare editions.
Not all Andy Warhol prints have monetary value, but some remain highly sought after. Examples include early silk-screen prints, limited-edition works, and pieces from Warhol’s most famous series.
Top 5 Andy Warhol Prints to hunt for
1. Marilyn Monroe (1967) – One of Warhol’s most iconic prints, valued at $250,000+. 2. Campbell’s Soup Cans (1968) – A classic representation of Warhol’s pop art, often selling for $150,000+. 3. Mao (1972) – A politically charged and highly collectible print, valued at $100,000+. 4. Flowers (1970) – A sought-after series with values reaching $75,000+. 5. Mick Jagger (1975) – A collaboration with the Rolling Stones frontman, with prices exceeding $80,000+.
Learn More About The Value of your Andy Warhol Prints
iGuide’s appraisal service is a good way to discover the value of your Andy Warhol prints. Learn more.
Marilyn Monroe collectibles have remained a favorite among pop culture and Hollywood memorabilia enthusiasts for decades. From autographed items to vintage merchandise, certain pieces have significantly appreciated in value. While many Marilyn Monroe collectibles are widely available, only specific items hold substantial worth based on rarity, condition, and demand.
Is there a market for Marilyn Monroe Collectibles? One aspect of Marilyn Monroe memorabilia that many people are unaware of is the potential monetary value of certain collectibles. The market for Marilyn Monroe memorabilia has fluctuated over the years, influenced by collector interest, historical significance, and production rarity. Signed items, vintage photographs, and original movie memorabilia tend to retain strong resale value, whereas mass-produced souvenirs may not fetch high prices.
The Market For Marilyn Monroe Collectibles
The market for Marilyn Monroe collectibles remains strong, with dedicated collectors and pop culture enthusiasts driving demand. However, the demand for Marilyn Monroe memorabilia is weak unless items are in "Mint Condition" and include original packaging or authentication. Worn-out, heavily used, or mass-produced collectibles typically hold little value. Specialty memorabilia shops, online marketplaces, and collector conventions serve as primary trading venues for high-value Marilyn Monroe collectibles.
Factors Affecting Price
Condition is crucial when determining a Marilyn Monroe collectible’s value. Items in near-mint condition with authentication documents will fetch significantly higher prices than those with damage or missing components. Rarity and historical significance also play a major role—signed memorabilia, vintage photographs, and original movie props are highly desirable. Provenance impacts value as well, with items directly linked to Marilyn Monroe’s personal or professional life attracting serious collectors. Demographics influence market trends, with longtime Marilyn Monroe fans and Hollywood historians seeking unique memorabilia.
Buying and Selling Marilyn Monroe Collectibles
For those interested in buying and selling Marilyn Monroe collectibles, authenticity and condition are key. Ensuring that an item retains its original features and verifying authenticity is crucial, as reproductions and forgeries can diminish value. Market trends fluctuate, and certain collectibles may increase in value over time while others remain stable. Knowledgeable collectors can find profitable opportunities through estate sales, memorabilia conventions, and specialty auctions.
Who buys Marilyn Monroe Collectibles today?
Collectors, Hollywood historians, and pop culture enthusiasts continue to drive the market for Marilyn Monroe collectibles. However, as older collectors downsize their collections, demand for specific items may shift. High-end buyers seek rare and pristine-condition memorabilia, while casual fans look for affordable keepsakes. Despite changing trends, interest in Marilyn Monroe collectibles remains strong, particularly for historically significant pieces.
Not all Marilyn Monroe collectibles have monetary value, but some remain highly sought after. Examples include autographed items, vintage photographs, and rare movie memorabilia from the 1950s and 1960s.
Top 5 Marilyn Monroe Collectibles to hunt for
1. Marilyn Monroe Autographs – Authentic signed photographs, scripts, and letters can be valued at $10,000+. 2. 1953 Playboy First Issue Featuring Marilyn Monroe – A highly collectible magazine that can sell for $5,000+. 3. Marilyn Monroe Worn Clothing – Dresses and outfits worn by Marilyn have fetched over $100,000 at auctions. 4. Original Movie Posters – Posters from films like "Some Like It Hot" and "The Seven Year Itch" often sell for $3,000+. 5. Limited-Edition Marilyn Monroe Dolls – Collector’s dolls from companies like Franklin Mint and Mattel can be valued at $1,500+.
Learn More About The Value of your Marilyn Monroe Collectibles
iGuide’s appraisal service is a good way to discover the value of your Marilyn Monroe collectibles. Learn more.
Swatches are colorful, fashionable wristwatches that gained massive popularity in the 1980s. They were initially created by the Swiss watch industry as a response to the growing threat of inexpensive quartz watches from Japan. Swatches, short for "Second Watch," were affordable, stylish, and versatile, making them accessible to everyone. Back in the day, there was a vibrant market for these timepieces, and collecting Swatches became a beloved hobby for many enthusiasts worldwide.
Even today, a community of Swatch collectors exists, although it’s not as robust as it once was. In their heyday, Swatches were more than just functional watches; they were cultural icons with strong demand and a thriving market. But how do they hold up in terms of monetary value today?
Alas, all good things must come to an end. The golden age of Swatches saw limited editions and artistic designs fetching impressive sums, but the decline in popularity over the years has taken its toll on prices. However, that doesn’t mean all Swatches have lost their charm—or their value!
The Market For Swatches
The Swatch market today is a mixed bag. While the general interest in these watches has waned, certain factors, such as nostalgia, uniqueness, and rarity, continue to fuel interest among collectors. The market has also been impacted by changing economic conditions and shifts in collector demographics. The rise of online marketplaces has made buying and selling Swatches easier than ever, but the competition has driven prices down for many common models.
Factors Affecting Price
Condition: The condition of a Swatch plays a huge role in determining its value. Mint-condition watches with original packaging and documentation are highly sought after.
Supply: Some Swatches were produced in limited quantities, making them rare and valuable, while others were mass-produced, leading to lower prices.
Demand: Current trends among collectors greatly impact the value of Swatches. Nostalgia for the 1980s and 1990s has sparked renewed interest in vintage designs.
Demographics: The aging collector base and a lack of younger enthusiasts entering the hobby have contributed to a decrease in overall demand.
Buying and Selling Swatches
For those considering buying and selling Swatches as a side gig, there are both risks and rewards. On the upside, some rare models can yield significant profits if bought and sold wisely. On the downside, the market can be unpredictable, and finding the right buyer may take time. It's essential to stay informed about market trends and have a keen eye for identifying valuable pieces.
Who Buys Swatches Today?
Dedicated collectors and vintage watch dealers remain the primary buyers of Swatches. However, the number of active dealers has been declining as many exit the market due to age or lack of interest. This exodus could further depress prices in the future, but the market isn’t dead yet. Niche buyers with a love for retro fashion or nostalgia for the 1980s are still keeping the flame alive.
Top 5 Swatches to Hunt For
1. Jelly Fish (1983): One of the first models ever released, its transparent design makes it a true icon. Value: Around $300–$500.
2. Keith Haring Edition (1986): Featuring artwork by Keith Haring, these are rare and highly collectible. Value: $1,000–$3,000.
3. Kiki Picasso (1985): Only 120 pieces were produced, making it one of the rarest Swatches ever. Value: $20,000–$30,000.
4. Goldfinger (1995): A gold-plated model that exudes luxury and nostalgia. Value: $500–$1,000.
5. The Original Prototype Swatches: These prototypes are the holy grail for collectors. Value: $50,000 and up, depending on condition.
Learn More About The Value of Your Swatches
iGuide’s appraisal service is a good way to discover the value of your Swatches. Learn more.
Are Life magazines worth any money nowadays? The question often comes to mind when people uncover a collection of these iconic publications tucked away in an attic or storage. Life magazines, known for their vivid photography and compelling stories, debuted in 1936 and quickly became a staple of American households. They chronicled major historical events, pop culture moments, and everyday life in stunning detail. While the print version of Life ceased in 2000, the magazine’s legacy lives on through collectors and enthusiasts who preserve its history. A hobby of collecting Life magazines does exist today, and although niche, it is driven by nostalgia and a love for history.
One aspect of Life magazines most people are not aware of is the monetary value of some issues. Is there a market for Life magazines? The answer depends on several factors, including condition, rarity, and demand. Life magazines have seen fluctuating interest over the years. In the mid-20th century, they were a household staple, but as digital media rose, interest waned. However, the demand for vintage Life magazines remains strong among certain collectors and history enthusiasts. Unique covers, rare issues, or those featuring significant events tend to fetch higher prices, reflecting their cultural and historical importance.
The Market For Life Magazines
The market for Life magazines has unique dynamics. Some issues, especially from the 1930s and 1940s, are highly sought after. Covers featuring celebrities, presidents, or major historical events often attract premium prices. However, this market is not immune to economic trends. Rising interest in vintage and retro collectibles has bolstered prices in recent years, but supply still plays a significant role. As millions of Life magazines were printed, not all issues are rare or valuable. While certain editions might command hundreds of dollars, others are worth very little.
Factors Affecting Price
Condition: The condition of a Life magazine is crucial. Chipped, broken, damaged, or heavily worn copies have little to no value. Collectors seek well-preserved issues with intact covers and minimal wear.
Supply: As Life magazines were mass-produced, many issues are abundant, which can suppress prices. Rare issues, such as the first edition or special commemorative ones, are more valuable.
Demand: Interest from collectors drives demand. Nostalgia, historical significance, and unique cover art all influence desirability.
Demographics: The market skews towards older collectors who remember Life magazines from their youth. As these collectors age, demand could decline unless younger generations take interest.
Buying and Selling Life Magazines
Buying and selling Life magazines can be a rewarding side gig, but it comes with risks. Sellers must research market trends and understand what makes an issue valuable. Buyers, on the other hand, should beware of overpaying for common editions. Platforms like eBay, estate sales, and flea markets are great places to buy or sell, but success requires knowledge of market demand and pricing. For some, the rewards of uncovering a rare gem outweigh the risks of investing time and effort.
Who Buys Life Magazines Today?
Dealers and collectors are the primary buyers of Life magazines. Vintage shops, online marketplaces, and specialty dealers keep the market alive. However, factors such as aging dealers exiting the market and younger generations' lack of interest could impact prices in the future. While the current market remains relatively stable, its long-term health depends on sustained demand from collectors and institutions preserving historical artifacts.
Not all Life magazines have monetary value, but some are in high demand. Examples include issues featuring historic events like the moon landing, celebrity profiles, or rare first editions.
Top 5 Life Magazines to Hunt For
1. November 23, 1963 (JFK Assassination Issue): Highly sought after due to its historical significance; valued at $100–$200.
2. April 13, 1962 (Marilyn Monroe Cover): A favorite among pop culture collectors; worth $50–$150.
3. First Issue (November 23, 1936): The inaugural edition is rare and can fetch $500–$1,000.
4. June 27, 1969 (Apollo 11 Moon Landing): Commemorates a pivotal moment in history; valued at $50–$200.
5. December 22, 1941 (World War II Pearl Harbor): Reflects a turning point in global history; worth $75–$150.
Learn More About The Value of Your Life Magazines
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Limited Edition Art Prints are specially produced artworks, often created in small quantities and signed or numbered by the artist. These prints have historically served as a way to make fine art accessible to a broader audience. While collecting art prints was once a thriving hobby, interest has waned in recent years, leaving some to wonder whether these items still hold significant monetary value in today’s market.
Is there a market for Limited Edition Art Prints? Most people are unaware of the nuances that impact the value of these items. Over the years, the economic history of Limited Edition Art Prints has been shaped by changing trends in art collecting. During the mid-20th century, collectors prized these prints as affordable alternatives to original works. However, as tastes shifted and digital art emerged, the demand for traditional prints began to decline, resulting in falling prices in many cases. While a niche market still exists, it is far from the booming sector it once was.
The Market For Limited Edition Art Prints
Condition is crucial: Prints that are damaged, faded, or heavily worn often have no value. Collectors seek pristine examples that retain their original vibrancy and authenticity. Weak demand for vintage prints: The overall market for older art prints has softened as newer generations show less interest in traditional art forms. Economic shifts: A combination of inflation and changing demographics has also influenced the market, leaving fewer active buyers for vintage prints.
Factors Affecting Price
Condition: Flawless prints with no signs of wear or damage fetch the highest prices. Supply: Limited editions with fewer prints tend to be more valuable than widely distributed ones. Demand: Popularity of the artist or artwork significantly impacts resale value. Demographics: As older collectors exit the market, fewer buyers remain to sustain demand.
Buying and Selling Limited Edition Art Prints
There are both risks and rewards in making a side gig out of trading Limited Edition Art Prints. For those with an eye for quality and knowledge of market trends, flipping high-demand prints can be lucrative. However, market volatility and fluctuating interest mean sellers may hold onto inventory longer than expected. Additionally, it’s essential to consider the costs of authentication and appraisals before making significant investments.
Who buys Limited Edition Art Prints today?
Today’s buyers often include niche collectors, art enthusiasts, and specialized dealers. However, as more dealers retire or leave the market, future prices may face further downward pressure. Lack of renewed interest from younger generations exacerbates this trend, making it harder for sellers to find buyers.
It’s important to remember that not all Limited Edition Art Prints have monetary value. Some are highly sought after, while others hold little to no demand in today’s marketplace.
Top 5 Limited Edition Art Prints to hunt for
1. Picasso Lithographs: Renowned for their artistry, these prints can fetch upwards of $10,000. 2. Chagall Prints: Known for their vibrant colors and dreamlike imagery, valued at $5,000 to $20,000. 3. Warhol Screen Prints: Iconic pop art pieces with values ranging from $20,000 to $100,000. 4. Ansel Adams Photography Prints: Beloved by photography enthusiasts, these sell for $1,000 to $7,000. 5. Keith Haring Editions: Bold, graphic art prints that can command $5,000 to $50,000.
Learn More About The Value of your Limited Edition Art Prints
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Zippo lighters are iconic reusable metal lighters first introduced in the 1930s by the Zippo Manufacturing Company. Known for their durability, windproof design, and distinctive "click" sound, these lighters became a symbol of reliability and craftsmanship. Over the decades, Zippos have been embraced by smokers, soldiers, and collectors alike. Today, the hobby of collecting Zippo lighters continues to exist, but it has become more niche, reflecting a decline in general demand compared to the mid-20th century.
One aspect of Zippo lighters most people are not aware of is the monetary value of some pieces. Is there a market for Zippo lighters? While interest has declined over the years, rare and vintage Zippos can still fetch high prices among dedicated collectors. Understanding the economic history and current market dynamics can help determine whether a specific lighter is worth money.
The Market For Zippo Lighters
The market for Zippo lighters has seen fluctuations over time. During their peak, especially in the mid-20th century, Zippos were both practical tools and status symbols, leading to widespread popularity. Today, the market is more selective, focusing on limited editions, vintage designs, and rare models. This narrower appeal means common Zippos may struggle to sell at significant prices, while unique items can still attract high-value bids in auctions and private sales.
Factors Affecting Price
Condition: The condition of a Zippo lighter is crucial. Chipped, broken, damaged, or heavily worn lighters have little to no value in the marketplace. Supply: With millions of Zippos produced over the years, common models are abundant and less valuable. Demand: Declining interest among younger generations has softened the overall demand. Demographics: Many Zippo collectors are aging, and fewer younger enthusiasts are entering the hobby, further impacting prices.
Buying and Selling Zippo Lighters
Making a side gig out of buying and selling Zippo lighters comes with its risks and rewards. The biggest risk lies in overestimating the value of a lighter, especially if it’s damaged or widely available. However, the rewards can be significant for those who identify rare or highly sought-after pieces. Online marketplaces, specialty collector forums, and estate sales are excellent places to buy and sell, but thorough research is essential to avoid losses.
Who buys Zippo lighters today?
Dealers, collectors, and specialty stores are the primary buyers of Zippo lighters today. However, as older dealers retire and younger generations show less interest in collectibles like Zippos, the number of active buyers may decrease over time. This shift could lead to a further softening of the market in the coming years.
Not all Zippo lighters have monetary value, but some are in high demand due to their rarity, design, or historical significance. Collectors should focus on unique and limited-edition models to maximize value.
Top 5 Zippo Lighters to hunt for
1. World War II Military Issue: These lighters, issued to soldiers, are highly sought after and can sell for $1,000 or more depending on condition. 2. Collectible Series: Special editions like the "Camel" or "Marlboro" series can range from $200 to $500, particularly if they are unused. 3. Vintage Black Crackle Finish: A signature wartime model, valued at $300 to $800 depending on condition. 4. Limited Editions: Zippos made in collaboration with luxury brands or artists often fetch $500 to $2,000. 5. Early Pre-WWII Models: Original Zippo lighters from the 1930s and early 1940s can sell for several thousand dollars, especially if they include original packaging.
Learn More About The Value of your Zippo Lighters
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When we think of horses, images of majestic creatures galloping across open fields or competing in thrilling races often come to mind. However, one aspect of horses that most folks don't consider is their monetary value. Specifically, within the realm of thoroughbred horses, there exists a dynamic and lucrative market driven by a variety of factors.
Market Dynamics
The market for thoroughbred horses is a complex ecosystem influenced by numerous factors. Demand fluctuates based on trends in racing, breeding, and even leisure riding. High-profile events like the Kentucky Derby or the Royal Ascot can significantly impact the market, as success on the racetrack often translates to increased value for both the horse and its offspring.
Additionally, the pedigree of a horse plays a crucial role in its marketability. Offspring of champion racehorses or from prestigious bloodlines can command premium prices. Furthermore, the reputation of breeders and trainers can also influence buyer interest and confidence in the investment.
Factors Influencing Value
Several key factors contribute to determining the value of a thoroughbred horse:
1. Pedigree and Bloodlines: Horses with a lineage of champions are highly sought after in the market. The potential for success on the racetrack is often perceived to be greater in these bloodlines.
2. Performance: The track record of a horse, including its racing achievements and performance in competitions, directly impacts its value. Success in prestigious races can significantly enhance a horse's worth.
3. Conformation and Health: Physical attributes and overall health are critical factors. Horses with excellent conformation, free from any major health issues, are typically more valuable as they are perceived to have a higher likelihood of success and longevity in racing.
4. Market Trends: Economic and industry trends can influence demand and subsequently impact prices. For example, a surge in interest from international buyers or new regulations within the industry can affect market dynamics.
Risks and Rewards
Investing in thoroughbred horses can be both lucrative and risky. While the potential for substantial financial gain exists, it is not without its challenges. The high costs associated with breeding, training, and maintaining a racehorse can be substantial. Moreover, success on the racetrack is never guaranteed, and factors such as injuries or underperformance can lead to significant losses.
However, for those willing to take on the risks, the rewards can be immense. The thrill of owning a successful racehorse, the potential for lucrative breeding rights, and the prestige associated with winning prestigious races are just a few of the rewards awaiting successful investors in the market.
World Record Price and Varied Values
It's worth noting that while some thoroughbred horses fetch astronomical prices, not all horses reach such heights of value. In 2006, a two-year-old, then unnamed colt, set the world record for the highest price ever paid for a thoroughbred racehorse at public auction. The Forestry colt was sold for $16 million (£9.1 million) through agent Demi O'Byrne at an auction held at Calder Race Course, Florida, USA. Remarkably, this colt had yet to even race, underscoring the speculative nature of the market and the premium placed on perceived potential.
In conclusion, the market for thoroughbred horses is a fascinating blend of tradition, speculation, and prestige. Driven by a multitude of factors, including pedigree, performance, and market trends, it offers both opportunities for substantial financial gain and risks of significant losses. While not all horses reach the staggering values seen in record-breaking sales, the allure of owning a champion racehorse continues to captivate investors and enthusiasts alike.
Flip phones, also known as clamshell phones, were the pinnacle of mobile phone design in the late 1990s and early 2000s. These compact devices folded neatly to protect their screens and were loved for their practicality and sleek look. Brands like Motorola, Samsung, and Nokia dominated the market with innovative designs.
In their prime, flip phones were everywhere—people flaunted their Motorola Razrs like trophies. While the advent of smartphones nearly eradicated their mainstream use, there’s still a niche community of collectors who admire their charm and simplicity. Though the hobby is smaller today, it continues to thrive among tech enthusiasts and nostalgia-driven buyers.
Alas, All Good Things Must Come to an End
Flip phones had their golden age during the early 2000s, when their compact designs and reliability made them indispensable. But as technology evolved, smartphones took over with their touchscreens and versatile apps, leading to a steady decline in the popularity—and monetary value—of flip phones. Once fetching impressive prices in the resale market, most flip phones today are worth much less.
The Market for Flip Phones
The flip phone market is shaped by nostalgia, rarity, and economics. Supply vastly outstrips demand, as millions of flip phones were manufactured. Nostalgia buyers and collectors sustain what little interest remains. However, as newer generations gravitate toward smartphones, the market for flip phones is shrinking further.
Factors Affecting Price
Several elements influence the value of flip phones:
Condition: Mint-condition phones or those still in their original packaging fetch the highest prices.
Brand: Iconic brands like Motorola and Nokia often hold more value.
Rarity: Limited editions and special models are worth more to collectors.
Demographics: Older buyers nostalgic for their youth drive much of the demand.
Buying and Selling Flip Phones
Venturing into buying and selling flip phones can be both risky and rewarding. The risks include a highly volatile market, with some models rapidly losing value as interest fades. On the other hand, rewards exist for rare and iconic models, which can still yield profits, especially in collector circles. Researching trends and connecting with niche communities can make this side gig more successful.
Who Buys Flip Phones Today?
Today’s buyers are typically collectors, retro-tech enthusiasts, and niche dealers. Unfortunately, many dealers are leaving the market due to age or declining interest. This lack of consistent demand, coupled with fewer outlets for reselling, could further depress prices over time.
Top 5 Flip Phones to Hunt For
Not all flip phones are created equal. Here are the top five models still in demand:
Motorola Razr V3: A design icon from the 2000s, worth up to $300 if in mint condition.
Nokia 7200: Unique for its fabric accents and rarity, valued at $150-$200.
Samsung SPH-N270 (Matrix Phone): A collector’s item tied to the Matrix movies, worth around $400.
Sony Ericsson Z800: Stylish and globally popular, fetching $100-$150 today.
Sharp GX25: Known for its rarity and compact design, worth approximately $250.
Learn More About the Value of Your Flip Phone
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Tag Heuer wristwatches are synonymous with precision, luxury, and a rich legacy in horology. Known for their blend of cutting-edge technology and timeless design, these watches have been a staple in the world of professional timekeeping and style since their inception in 1860 by Edouard Heuer. Today, the Tag Heuer brand continues to resonate with collectors and enthusiasts alike, offering an array of models that appeal to both traditionalists and modern watch lovers. While some collectors treat it as a serious hobby, the market for vintage Tag Heuer wristwatches remains strong, keeping the passion alive.
One aspect of Tag Heuer wristwatches most people are not aware of is the monetary value of some of these pieces. Is there a market for Tag Heuer wristwatches? Absolutely. The economic history of Tag Heuer watches reveals a pattern of rising interest and value. Vintage models, in particular, have consistently attracted attention due to their craftsmanship and historical significance. While demand has fluctuated with changing trends, iconic models like the Carrera and Monaco series continue to fetch impressive prices among collectors and dealers. This enduring appeal highlights the robustness of the Tag Heuer market.
The Market For Tag Heuer Wristwatches
The Tag Heuer market is driven by a combination of nostalgia, brand reputation, and enduring craftsmanship. Vintage pieces often outperform modern models in terms of value, as they are scarcer and carry unique histories. Economic factors such as global demand, disposable income, and market sentiment also influence the buying and selling dynamics of Tag Heuer watches. Despite economic challenges, the allure of these wristwatches remains high, ensuring a steady market for both new and pre-owned pieces.
Factors Affecting Price
Condition: A watch's condition is crucial. Chipped, broken, damaged, or heavily worn Tag Heuer watches often have little to no value. Supply and Demand: Limited-edition models or rare vintage pieces are in higher demand, driving up prices. Demographics: Collectors from younger generations are beginning to appreciate the artistry of vintage Tag Heuer watches, expanding the market. Provenance: Watches with a verified history or famous owners can fetch significantly higher prices.
Buying and Selling Tag Heuer Wristwatches
Buying and selling Tag Heuer watches can be a rewarding side gig, but it comes with risks. Proper research is essential to avoid counterfeits or overpaying for common models. The rewards, however, can be substantial, especially for those who uncover rare models or build a loyal clientele. Leveraging platforms like online auctions and reputable dealers can help navigate the market with confidence.
Who buys Tag Heuer wristwatches today?
Collectors, enthusiasts, and professional dealers are the primary buyers of Tag Heuer wristwatches. Specialized dealers and auction houses support the marketplace by providing appraisal and sales services. However, the market could face challenges as veteran dealers retire and younger generations show varied interests. This shift may influence pricing and availability in the future.
While not all Tag Heuer watches have significant monetary value, certain models are highly sought after by buyers. For instance, vintage Carrera chronographs and Monaco editions remain iconic in the world of watch collecting.
Top 5 Tag Heuer Wristwatches to Hunt For
Tag Heuer Monaco: The original square-case design from the 1970s can fetch upwards of $20,000 due to its unique look and history. Tag Heuer Carrera 2447S: A favorite among collectors, these models often sell for $10,000–$15,000 for their timeless design. Tag Heuer Autavia: Vintage Autavia models with original dials are highly desirable, with values ranging from $7,000 to $20,000. Tag Heuer Silverstone: This rare 1970s piece is valued at $15,000 or more, appreciated for its bold design. Tag Heuer Monza: Early Monza models are rising stars, often valued at $5,000–$8,000 for their unique chronograph features.
Learn More About The Value of Your Tag Heuer Wristwatches
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Nintendo 64 game cartridges were a staple of gaming in the late 1990s, bringing iconic titles like *Super Mario 64* and *The Legend of Zelda: Ocarina of Time* into homes around the world. These cartridges were built to last and feature a durable plastic casing that protected the game chips inside. Though physical cartridges have largely been replaced by digital downloads in the gaming world, there is still a niche hobby of collecting Nintendo 64 cartridges today. However, the market is not as strong as it once was, and the value of these cartridges largely depends on specific factors. One aspect of Nintendo 64 game cartridges most people are not aware of is the monetary value of certain rare titles.
Is there a market for Nintendo 64 game cartridges?
The answer is nuanced. While the overall demand has declined due to the rise of modern gaming systems and emulation, specific titles, particularly those in new, sealed condition, have retained or even increased their value over time. Conversely, damaged or heavily worn cartridges have little to no value in the current marketplace.
The Market For Nintendo 64 Game Cartridges
The economic history of Nintendo 64 cartridges is tied to nostalgia and the rarity of certain titles. During the early 2000s, these cartridges were readily available at low prices. However, as collectors entered the market, the value of rare and sought-after games began to climb. Today, the market is defined by a delicate balance between supply and demand. Nostalgia drives interest, but modern gaming trends and the ease of accessing retro games through emulation have weakened the broader market.
Factors Affecting Price
Condition: Condition is the most crucial factor. Games in pristine or new, sealed condition are worth significantly more than those with damage or heavy wear. Damaged or non-functional cartridges generally have no monetary value.
Supply: Limited-production titles or regional exclusives command higher prices due to their rarity.
Demand: While there is still demand among retro gaming enthusiasts, this market is niche. Games associated with beloved franchises tend to perform better.
The Economy: Economic conditions influence disposable income, which affects collectors' ability to invest in high-value cartridges.
Buying and Selling Nintendo 64 Game Cartridges
For those interested in turning a profit, buying and selling Nintendo 64 game cartridges can be a rewarding side gig. However, the risks include fluctuating market demand, counterfeit games, and the difficulty of finding buyers for less popular titles. On the flip side, locating a rare or highly sought-after title in excellent condition can lead to significant financial rewards.
Who buys Nintendo 64 game cartridges today?
Collectors and retro gaming enthusiasts are the primary buyers of Nintendo 64 cartridges. Dealers and specialized stores also support the market, but this group is shrinking as older dealers exit the business due to age or lack of interest. As this happens, prices may decline further, except for the rarest and most valuable titles.
Not all Nintendo 64 cartridges have monetary value, but some are highly sought after. Examples include rare editions, games with limited production runs, and those in pristine condition.
Top 5 Nintendo 64 Game Cartridges to Hunt For
1. ClayFighter Sculptor's Cut: A Blockbuster-exclusive title worth approximately $1,000 in excellent condition. $4000 w/ Box.
2. Super Bowling: A rare sports game that can fetch $450 loose or $2000 w/ box.
3. Harvest Moon 64: A beloved farming simulator valued at $70 loose or $140 w/ box.
4. Conker's Bad Fur Day: Known for its humor and rarity, valued around $130 loose or $300 w/ box.
5. The Legend of Zelda: Majora's Mask (Collector's Edition): A sought-after title worth $60 loose or $140 w/ box.
Learn More About The Value of your Nintendo 64 Game Cartridges
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Pez dispensers are quirky, fun candy holders that have been delighting kids and collectors alike since their invention in the 1920s. Originally created in Austria as a peppermint candy dispenser, Pez dispensers took on their iconic character designs in the 1950s. Featuring beloved cartoon characters, movie heroes, and more, these collectible dispensers have captured the hearts of fans worldwide.
Today, the hobby of Pez dispenser collecting is alive and well, though the market has seen some ups and downs. While certain rare designs fetch premium prices, the general market for Pez dispensers has stabilized. Whether you're a die-hard collector or just curious about their value, there's still a lot to explore in this colorful world.
The Market For Pez Dispensers
Is there a market for Pez dispensers? The answer is yes—but it's nuanced. The economic history of Pez collecting saw its peak in the late 1990s and early 2000s, when rare models started commanding impressive sums at auctions. However, with more collectors aging out of the hobby and fewer new entrants, prices for common dispensers have leveled off. That said, rare and vintage Pez dispensers still hold significant value for collectors and enthusiasts alike.
Market dynamics are shaped by nostalgia and the thrill of finding rare pieces. Online marketplaces and specialized auctions have made it easier for buyers and sellers to connect, keeping the market active despite some fluctuations.
Factors Affecting Price
Condition: Pristine condition is critical for maximizing value. Dispensers with original packaging and intact mechanisms are especially sought after.
Supply: Limited-edition Pez dispensers or those produced for a short time tend to fetch higher prices due to their rarity.
Demand: Nostalgia for certain eras or characters can drive demand for specific designs, boosting their value.
Demographics: The aging collector base and shifting interests among younger generations have created a mixed impact on the overall market.
Buying and Selling Pez Dispensers
Buying and selling Pez dispensers can be a fun and potentially profitable side gig. The rewards include the joy of hunting for rare finds and connecting with other enthusiasts. However, there are risks, such as overpaying for a dispenser or encountering counterfeit items. Success in this hobby requires research, patience, and an eye for quality and authenticity.
Who Buys Pez Dispensers Today?
Collectors and specialized dealers remain the primary buyers of Pez dispensers. Nostalgic individuals and fans of retro pop culture also contribute to the market. However, the number of dealers has declined as many retire or leave the field, potentially impacting prices. Still, niche markets and passionate buyers keep the trade alive.
Top 5 Pez Dispensers to Hunt For
1. Astronaut B (1982): This rare dispenser was made in limited quantities for the European market. Value: $3,000–$5,000.
2. Soft Head Mickey Mouse (1979): A beloved design with a soft rubber head, making it highly collectible. Value: $1,000–$1,500.
3. Political Donkey (1961): Part of a political series, this dispenser is rare and symbolic. Value: $2,000–$3,000.
4. Halloween Witch (1950s): A vintage classic that's a must-have for Pez enthusiasts. Value: $500–$1,000.
5. Psychedelic Hand (1973): Unique and colorful, it’s a standout piece in any collection. Value: $5,000–$7,000.
Learn More About The Value of Your Pez Dispensers
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Armani figurines are beautifully crafted porcelain sculptures designed by Giuseppe Armani, an Italian artist renowned for his elegant and lifelike creations. These figurines gained popularity in the late 20th century and were celebrated for their exquisite attention to detail and artistic quality. From graceful ballerinas to whimsical children and romantic couples, Armani figurines captured timeless moments in stunning detail.
The hobby of collecting Armani figurines has seen its ups and downs. While there was a strong market in the 1990s and early 2000s, the interest in collecting these treasures has declined somewhat. However, certain rare and highly sought-after pieces continue to command attention and high prices among dedicated collectors.
The Market For Armani Figurines
Is there a market for Armani figurines? The answer is a cautious yes. The economic history of Armani figurines saw a boom when these sculptures were first introduced, as their elegance appealed to collectors and art lovers alike. Over time, as tastes shifted and fewer people pursued porcelain figurines, demand dwindled. As a result, prices for common models have fallen, but exceptional or limited-edition pieces still hold their value or even appreciate in some cases.
The market today is largely driven by nostalgia, rarity, and artistry. Online platforms and auction houses keep the trade alive, but it’s clear the golden era of Armani figurines has passed for all but the rarest models.
Factors Affecting Price
Condition: Figurines in pristine condition, free from chips, cracks, or repairs, are worth significantly more.
Supply: Limited-edition and discontinued figurines are highly valued due to their rarity.
Demand: Certain themes, such as romantic couples or ballerinas, remain more popular among collectors and fetch higher prices.
Demographics: As the collector base ages and fewer young collectors enter the market, overall demand has declined.
Buying and Selling Armani Figurines
Buying and selling Armani figurines can be a rewarding side gig, especially for those with an eye for art and detail. The rewards include the thrill of finding rare pieces and the satisfaction of preserving these timeless works of art. However, there are risks involved, such as counterfeit items or overestimating demand. Research and networking with collectors can help mitigate these challenges.
Who Buys Armani Figurines Today?
Dealers, collectors, and enthusiasts remain the primary buyers of Armani figurines. While the market has shrunk over the years, there are still passionate buyers who appreciate the artistry and craftsmanship of these sculptures. However, as some dealers retire or exit the market, there’s potential for prices to decline further. Still, the niche community supporting Armani figurines keeps the trade active for now.
Top 5 Armani Figurines to Hunt For
1. Cinderella (1993): A rare, limited-edition figurine that captures the magic of the classic fairy tale. Value: $1,000–$1,500.
2. Ballerina (1980s): This elegant design showcases Armani’s mastery of grace and movement. Value: $800–$1,200.
3. Lovers Embrace (1995): A romantic piece that is highly sought after by collectors. Value: $1,200–$1,800.
4. Mother and Child (2000): A heartwarming depiction of maternal love, produced in limited quantities. Value: $900–$1,300.
5. Lady with Hat (1987): This stylish figurine is a standout piece in any collection. Value: $700–$1,100.
Learn More About The Value of Your Armani Figurines
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Walter L. Kneubuhler (1906–1982) remains a revered name in the world of custom knives, celebrated for his impeccable craftsmanship and dedication to historical authenticity. Born in Antwerp, Ohio, on July 13, 1906, Kneubuhler’s journey into knife making began humbly, forging tools for everyday use on his family farm. His early creations, kitchen and butcher knives for his mother, demonstrated a knack for turning ordinary materials into functional and enduring tools.
From Hobbyist to Master Knife Maker
Kneubuhler's interest in black powder firearms in the 1960s spurred a new creative venture: crafting traditional accessories. His skill quickly gained recognition among collectors and enthusiasts, encouraging him to pursue knife making full-time after retiring in 1968. This marked the birth of W.K. Knives, a brand synonymous with artistry and reliability.
His most iconic creations, such as the "Mountain Man" and "Jedediah Smith" models, reflect Kneubuhler's passion for American history and his dedication to authenticity. These knives not only served practical purposes but also celebrated the craftsmanship of early American pioneers, blending utility with aesthetics.
A Collector’s Treasure
Today, Walter Kneubuhler's knives are highly coveted by collectors worldwide. Prestigious platforms like Arizona Custom Knives and Michigan Custom Knives frequently showcase his works. Notable pieces include:
- Daggers and Bowie Knives, praised for their intricate detailing.
- The "Jedediah Smith" model, a masterpiece featuring a D-2 steel blade and a polished rosewood handle, exemplifying Kneubuhler's ability to merge durability with elegance.
The rarity and quality of his knives have cemented their value in the collectible market, often commanding premium prices.
A Legacy Continued
Following Kneubuhler's passing on June 14, 1982, his apprentice, David Votaw, took up the mantle to preserve the W.K. Knives tradition. Votaw’s work ensures that Kneubuhler's legacy of creating historically inspired, handcrafted knives lives on, bridging the gap between functional tools and collectible art.
How Much Are Walter L. Kneubuhler Knives Worth Today?
The value of Kneubuhler’s knives depends on factors such as condition, rarity, and historical significance. Some models, especially limited-edition pieces or those with unique materials, can fetch thousands of dollars in the secondary market. Collectors prize these knives for their craftsmanship, historical connection, and enduring utility.
If you own a Walter Kneubuhler knife and are curious about its value, an appraisal can provide insights into its worth and help you decide whether to preserve, sell, or display this piece of history.
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Hummel figurines are fun to collect, and can even be valuable. This article lists some of the most valuable Hummel figurines, and explains why they are valuable. "For Father", "Globe Trotter", "Little Goat Herder", and "Going to Grandmas" are great examples of valuable Hummels. As with all collectibles, the condition and the rarity of a Hummel will affect its value. However, the value of a Hummel is affected by many things. For example, part of what makes Hummels so valuable is the keen eye for detail, colors, and expressions.
Hummels have been on the marketplace for a long time. In the 1930s, Franz Goebel, the founder of Hummel Figurines, thought that in a world of political turmoil, customers would respond to a product that depicted the gentle innocence of childhood. The artwork of a Franciscan Sister named Maria Innocentia Hummel was introduced to Mr. Goebel. The nun made drawings of country children that were printed as art cards. These art cards would soon be famous around the world.
Goebel wanted to produce a line of figurines based on Maria Hummel’s artwork. She was contacted at the Convent of Siessen and was shown clay models based on her drawings. Sister Hummel thought the idea of turning her artwork into ceramic models was a wonderful idea, and she granted sole rights to Goebel to create ceramic figurines based on her original artwork. Sister Hummel was a perfectionist, so she insisted that she personally approve the sculpting and painting of each porcelain piece. It was determined that earthenware, pioneered by Goebel in the 1920s, was the proper material for the new line.
In order to determine whether or not a figurine, plate, or bell is a genuine Hummel piece, one should search for definitive marks identifying the Hummel as legitimate. The mark of Sister Hummel is carved into every piece. Sister Hummel’s stamp of approval appears on every piece and under the direction of the members of the convent, approvals were made with care. All Hummels have a mold number; a number that is incised on the bottom of each Hummel figurine at the factory. Goebel’s stamp on the underside of the figurine is yet another indicator. Hummel’s trademark has changed over the years, yet every authentic M. I. Hummel figurine will have a Goebel stamp on its underside. Any variation in this stamping causes a source of great excitement for Hummel collectors.
Hummel Figurines have been collected for over 80 years, and continue to have a strong market even today.
Before considering the sale of your valuable coin collection, it's paramount to create a detailed inventory list. This critical document is often the first thing requested by prospective buyers. Collectors and dealers rely on specific information to gauge their interest and propose a fair price. Without a detailed inventory, assessing the value and interest in your collection can be difficult or impossible. For those new to selling coins, the task may appear overwhelming. However, this guide aims to simplify the process, ensuring you cover all necessary details efficiently.
iGuide suggests utilizing a spreadsheet application, such as Google Sheets or Microsoft Excel, for inventory management. Google Sheets is particularly favored among buyers for its accessibility and is available at no cost with a Gmail account. Creating a Gmail account is straightforward and can be done by searching for "FREE GMAIL ACCOUNT" online.
Year
Identifying the year a coin was minted is generally a simple task. However, if the date isn't visible due to wear, understand that this more likely indicates damage rather than a minting error.
Mint Marks
Mint marks is an essential point for coin collectors, with certain marks potentially increasing the coin's value significantly. The mint marks in the United States are:
P: Philadelphia Mint (also the U.S. Mint's main office, thus some coins may not feature a mint mark).
D: Denver Mint.
O: New Orleans Mint.
S: San Francisco Mint.
W: West Point Mint.
CC: Carson City Mint (known for its rarity and high value).
For assistance in identifying mint marks, a quick internet search can be very informative, or contact iGuide.
Denomination
State the denomination of each coin in your collection, whether it be a penny, nickel, dime, quarter, half-dollar, or dollar.
Coin Type
Including the type of each coin, while not mandatory, can offer additional insight into your collection.Don't know the type? It's okay to omit it.
Condition
Do your best to evaluate and describe the condition of each coin, even if it's a broad description like "USED" or "LIKE NEW." For coin sets or commemorative issues, describe the state of the packaging and whether items like certificates of authenticity are included, noting the condition as "like-new" if applicable.
Conclusion
Following these guidelines will help you compile a proper inventory list for your coin collection, putting you in a strong position for future sales or evaluations.
Antique books are treasured pieces of history, often defined as books that are at least 100 years old. They capture the knowledge, art, and culture of the times in which they were created. From leather-bound classics to fragile first editions, antique books have long been coveted by collectors and literary enthusiasts.
Collecting antique books remains a cherished hobby for many. While the market has shifted over the years, with digital media taking center stage, there is still a passionate community dedicated to preserving these artifacts. Certain categories, like first editions or rare manuscripts, continue to command attention and significant value.
The Market For Antique Books
Is there a market for antique books? Absolutely, though it is a niche one. The economic history of antique books has seen cycles of booming interest and quieter periods. During the 20th century, collectors eagerly sought out rare and historically significant books, driving up prices. In recent years, however, the market for more common antique books has softened as fewer people pursue physical collections. Nonetheless, the demand for unique, historically significant, or highly collectible pieces remains strong.
The market is influenced by a love for history and the tangible connection to the past that antique books provide. Auctions, estate sales, and specialized dealers keep the trade alive, especially for high-value items.
Factors Affecting Price
Condition: Well-preserved books with intact bindings and minimal wear are worth significantly more.
Rarity: Limited-edition prints or books with unique features, such as signed copies, can fetch a premium.
Demand: Books by popular authors, or those with historical significance, often attract the most interest.
Provenance: A book’s history or association with notable individuals can greatly enhance its value.
Buying and Selling Antique Books
Buying and selling antique books can be a rewarding hobby or side gig, but it requires patience and expertise. The rewards include uncovering rare gems and connecting with fellow bibliophiles. However, risks include overestimating a book’s value or encountering fakes. Proper research, networking, and experience are key to success in this market.
Who Buys Antique Books Today?
Collectors, historians, and institutions such as libraries and museums are the primary buyers of antique books. While the collector base has aged, there is still a core group passionate about preserving these literary treasures. However, as some dealers retire or leave the field, the availability of knowledgeable experts has decreased, which could impact future prices.
Top 5 Antique Books to Hunt For
1. First Edition of “Pride and Prejudice” (1813): Jane Austen’s classic remains a top collectible. Value: $50,000–$150,000.
2. Gutenberg Bible (1455): One of the first books printed with movable type. Value: Millions of dollars.
3. Shakespeare’s First Folio (1623): A cornerstone of English literature. Value: $2–$5 million.
4. “The Great Gatsby” First Edition (1925): F. Scott Fitzgerald’s masterpiece. Value: $100,000–$150,000.
5. “On the Origin of Species” (1859): Charles Darwin’s groundbreaking work. Value: $100,000–$500,000.
Learn More About The Value of Your Antique Books
iGuide’s appraisal service is a good way to discover the value of your antique books. Learn more.
When Dale Carnegie wrote How to Win Friends and Influence People, he could not have had authors of price guides in mind. Having produced over ten price guides in the last fifteen years, this author is unaware of having won many friends. However, it appears from the many letters received that price guides do influence collectors, dealers, and appraisers. The people who use price guides most effectively view them as just one of four or five factors to be considered in any specific case. Unfortunately some readers select a price assuming it to be a quick and final answer. They use a book as a bible rather than a guide.
The prices listed on this site include new, old, rare, unusual, and scarce Hummels of all types. one nationally known collector commented, "Sure, you can issue price lists for new Hummel figurines easily, just take production costs and add a profit. But you can't publish a price guide of 'Old Hummels'; that's impossible." A sage once said, "The impossible only takes a little more time and a little more effort."
Publishing a price guide is not quick or easy. Data collected from hundreds of people, stacks of letters, many publications, and thousands of miles of travel must be compiled, sorted, and placed in meaningful order so that statistical methods can be applied. With many additional steps, including checking each figure with many experts, a price for each item is arrived at. What does that price mean? It is simply a price that applies for only one set of conditions. It is only a guide. It is not absolute. It is not exact.
It is a selected figure representing what might be a fair price in a number of instances. It is a starting point. From this price a number to fit a particular situation can be determined with much greater accuracy. By modifying the listed figure for time, place, and circumstances, a price mutually satisfactory to the buyer and seller is more likely. The deal is made fairly and quickly.
A sale might involve a collector who discovers from the price guide that he has an item with unusual size, color, and markings. According to the price guide only a few are known to exist and have sold from $900 to $1,400 when offered. While he's still undecided about what to do, a dealer calls to ask if he is interested in selling, having heard about the piece from a mutual acquaintance. The conversation might go something like this:
Dealer: "By any chance do you have an oversize Merry Wanderer with red shoes?"
Collector: "No, this one has green shoes, but otherwise it is just like the book says."
Dealer: "I have a good customer that's been waiting for years to find one like you describe. How much do you want for it."
Collector: (After a moment's hesitation) "Fourteen hundred dollars."
Dealer: "All right, on one condition. I will send you a cashier's check for $1400 providing you give me five days to make sure the figurine is as you describe it."
Collector: "That's fine with me. I'll hold it if I get your check before next Tuesday."
What happened? Why was the dealer willing to pay more than some collectors had paid in the past. At least one good reason might have been that his customer had told him he would pay up to $1600 anytime for such an example. With little risk involved the dealer can make a fast, small profit. He's happy, his customer is happy, and the seller is ecstatic. In the seller's opinon the author of the price guide is a great fellow with conservative prices.
A final example of a possible sale might be as follows. The very same collector with the "$1400" figurine with green shoes might spend hours calling dealers and writing out-of-town ones listed inthe Buyer's Guide. Finally, getting impatient and disgusted, he might give the piece to a commission auctioneer to sell who agrees to retain 25% of the proceeds as his comission. The auction is on a bad day. Only the mailman and a few hardy individuals are out. Nobody at the auction cares especially about the Hummel figurine or its value. It goes for $50 on two bids. Now the collector is certain the author of the price guide knows nothing about pricing Hummel figurines. In both cases, although fictional and extreme, the price in the book was only a guide. The figure had to be modified by the conditions at the time of the sale.
Herwin Records was a US record label founded and run by brothers Herbert and Edwin Schiele, the trademark name being formed from their first names. Herwin Records was based in St. Louis, Missouri, and produced records starting in 1924. Most of the material released on the label was from master discs leased from Gennett Records and Paramount Records. In 1930 Herwin was sold to the Wisconsin Chair Company, the parent of Paramount Records, which discontinued the Herwin label sometime in the 1930s.
Most Valuable Blues Artists on the Herwin Label
Lizzie Washington on Herwin 78 RPM Blind Willie Jackson on Herwin 78 RPM Charley Peters on Herwin 78 RPM Katherine Baker on Herwin 78 RPM Blind Tim Russell on Herwin 78 RPM Jerry Lee on Herwin 78 RPM Reverend J.M. Gates on Herwin 78 RPM Blind Jeremiah Taylor on Herwin 78 RPM
Asset banking involves strategically managing and leveraging valuable assets, both tangible and intangible, to safeguard, grow, and utilize wealth effectively. Unlike cash deposits, which can be limited by insurance thresholds, asset banking allows individuals to diversify their holdings and capitalize on the inherent value of their possessions.
Asset Types
1. Real Estate Land Long-term investment, often appreciating over time.
Expensive Homes A popular method for the wealthy to "safe park" capital. However, property taxes and maintenance costs can erode the capital invested over time.
2. Personal Property Fine Art Sought-after as a hedge against economic downturns.
Collectibles Rare items like vintage cars or historical artifacts hold value and often appreciate.
3. Precious Metals Gold Coins and Bullion Universally recognized as a stable investment.
Silver A more affordable entry point into precious metals investing.
4. Financial Assets Stocks and Bonds Traditional investment vehicles for growth and income.
5. Digital Assets Cryptocurrency Digital currency that offers high growth potential but is volatile.
NFTs (Non-Fungible Tokens) Unique digital collectibles tied to art, media, or virtual goods.
Why Asset Banking?
Asset banking provides benefits that go beyond traditional savings accounts, particularly for individuals with substantial wealth:
FDIC Limits With FDIC insurance covering only $250,000 per account (or $500,000 for joint accounts), asset banking becomes essential for safeguarding larger amounts of liquid wealth.
Income Assets like rental properties or stocks generate steady income streams.
Collateral Assets can secure loans or lines of credit.
Risk Management Spreading wealth across asset types reduces risk.
Hedge Against Inflation Assets like real estate and gold often increase in value as inflation rises.
Growth Assets such as stocks and collectibles appreciate over time.
Revenue Generation Renting or selling assets can produce income.
Difference from Shadow Banking
While asset banking focuses on the strategic use of personal and tangible wealth, shadow banking refers to non-traditional financial intermediaries (like hedge funds or private equity firms) that operate outside regulated banking systems. Shadow banking is often criticized for its lack of transparency, whereas asset banking emphasizes secure and informed asset management.
References
U.S. Federal Reserve
Information on FDIC insurance limits
The Art Market 2024 Reports on fine art investment trends.
World Gold Council Data on precious metal performance.
Blockchain.com
Cryptocurrency valuation insights
Summary
Asset banking is a critical strategy for individuals and institutions seeking to manage significant wealth beyond the confines of traditional banking. It provides flexibility, security, and growth potential through diversification into real estate, collectibles, precious metals, and digital assets. However, accurately evaluating these assets is essential to making informed decisions.
iGuide is a leader in valuation of collectible and tangible assets, providing real market data to ensure your asset portfolio reflects its true value. Accurate appraisals are the cornerstone of successful asset banking, and iGuide delivers the expertise and tools needed to succeed.
You've meticulously examined your old coins, inspecting every detail for flaws, double stamps, or errors. You've stared at so many old pennies that they're practically imprinted on your eyelids. Finally, you have that "Eureka!" moment — you believe you've found an error coin. But hold on a second; don't get ahead of yourself.
EUREKA! I FOUND AN ERROR COIN!
Nearly every day, we receive excited messages from people who are convinced they've discovered a rare error coin. Even more thrilling, they’ve done their own research and found someone else selling the exact same coin for an astronomical price. They believe they've hit the jackpot and want us to appraise their newfound treasure. The only problem? The coin hasn’t been authenticated by an expert service.
While we appreciate the enthusiasm and curiosity that drives people to seek our appraisal services, the reality is that 99.99% of the time, the coin isn't a genuine error. That "rare" 1943 copper cent? More often than not, it's a modified 1948 coin or a copper-plated steel cent. That 1958 "Double Strike Obverse"? It usually turns out not to be a double strike at all. And the list goes on.
Here's the thing: if you believe you have an error coin, but it hasn't been authenticated by a trusted service like ANACS, PCGS, or NGC, its value is, unfortunately, limited. Even if it is a true error, if it's not certified, it won’t hold much weight in the market.
WHAT IS AUTHENTICATION?
Authentication involves a professional expert examining your coin to confirm its authenticity. The process includes encapsulating the coin in a secure holder, applying a tamper-proof label, and documenting it in their historical database. This process comes with fees, which vary by service, but without this authentication, most collectors will be hesitant to buy or appraise your coin for a high value.
Three trusted grading services with established reputations are ANACS, PCGS, and NGC. As appraisers, we recognize and trust these services to provide reliable verification.
WHAT SHOULD YOU DO NEXT?
If you genuinely believe you’ve discovered a rare error coin, such as a 1943 bronze cent, we encourage you to take the next step to verify its authenticity. Before seeking an appraisal, it’s crucial to have it certified. To get started, search for "ANACS Grading Service" or "NGC Grading Fees" to find out how to submit your coin. Once authenticated, feel free to reach out for an appraisal, and good luck with your discovery!
In the world of comic book collecting, the authenticity and condition of vintage comics are paramount, impacting their value significantly. Mainstream comic book grading services play a crucial role in this domain, offering professional grading, authentication, and encapsulation services that assure both buyers and sellers of the item's authenticity and condition. Here's a look at the leading authenticators in the comic book industry:
CGC (Certified Guaranty Company)
Established in 2000, CGC is arguably the most recognized comic book grading service globally. It provides a comprehensive grading scale, ranging from 0.5 (Poor) to 10.0 (Gem Mint), offering collectors and investors a reliable measure of the comic book's condition. CGC's encapsulation process also preserves the comic in a tamper-evident, protective holder, ensuring its condition and authenticity remain intact over time.
CBCS (Comic Book Certification Service)
Founded in 2014 by former CGC grader Steve Borock, CBCS has quickly established itself as a significant player in the comic book authentication space. CBCS offers similar services to CGC, including grading, encapsulation, and a detailed report of the item's condition. A unique feature of CBCS is its verification service for signed comics, offering collectors an added layer of authentication for autographed issues.
PGX (Professional Grading eXperts)
PGX, based in Portland, Oregon, has been grading and authenticating comic books since 2002. While it operates on a smaller scale compared to CGC and CBCS, PGX offers competitive pricing and turnaround times. Their grading standards and encapsulation services provide collectors with an alternative option for verifying and protecting their comic book investments.
Evaluating Authentication Services
When choosing a comic book grading service, collectors consider several factors:
Reputation: The credibility and recognition of the grading service in the collector community.
Accuracy: Consistency and reliability of the grading scale.
Protection: Quality of the encapsulation process and the durability of the protective holder.
Services Offered: Availability of additional services, such as signature verification or restoration detection.
Learning more about the value of your collection with iGuide's Appraisal Reports
Understanding the value of your comic book collection goes beyond grading and authentication. iGuide's Appraisal Reports offer an in-depth analysis of your collection's current market values, based on real market data. Whether you're a seasoned collector or new to the hobby, iGuide provides valuable insights into the worth of your comics, helping you make informed decisions about buying, selling, or holding onto your pieces.
Our story begins with a poor kid from Mississippi who turned his fascination with "old stuff" into a business while still a teenager in the 1970s. With $400 borrowed from a local coin shop owner (who knew him as a regular customer and saw something special in the young man) Jon built a successful business in antiques and collectibles. As business grew, he expanded into publishing books and price guides for fellow collectors. But Jon was never one to rest on his laurels — he had a vision for something new and unique.
An early "electronic publisher"
In the late 1990s, he registered iGuide.net as a web domain and began migrating his vast database of collectibles knowledge to the fast-growing Internet. Over time, Jon's dream of creating a "new kind of price guide" unlike any other began to come into focus. With bespoke appraisals and cutting edge data analytics, his vision for a pricing engine took shape. The iGuide team worked tirelessly to challenge the status quo and push the envelope of what accurate pricing data means. And now, after years of research and hard work, iGuide.net has emerged with a new brand of innovation and creativity in the world of pricing knowledge. While our techniques may be new, our dedication and passion for accuracy is unrivaled. Join us as we continue to push the limits of what it means to be a knowledgeable collector — the journey is just beginning.
About our founder
Jon has been involved in the antiques and collectibles industry since the 1970s. He started his business as a teenager, owning a rare stamp business called "Rarities, Inc.", and opened his first retail shop at age 18. He has been buying, selling, and appraising rare coins and collectibles for decades, even before the Internet.
Warren is an internationally recognized expert in the field of antiques and collectibles, having authored numerous price guides, including "Warren's Movie Poster Price Guide," "The Official Price Guide to Paperback Books," and "Wizard: The Guide to Comics." He served as the senior price guide editor for Wizard Magazine, Toyfare Magazine, and Inquest magazine from 1993 to 2003. Prior to that, he was the senior editor of The Overstreet Update, a price guide for collectors of rare comic books.
In addition to his books, Warren has also provided certified appraisal services for many important collections, including the Movie Memorabilia Collection of Michael Wayne, son of legendary actor John Wayne. He has worked as a consultant for Heritage Auction Galleries of Dallas, TX and others.
Warren is the founder of several companies in the collectibles industry, including 2nd Markets Corporation, Soldster, and iGuide. These platforms provide services for buying, selling, and appraising antiques, art, coins, old currency, knives, movie memorabilia, rare comic books, vintage collectibles, and memorabilia of all kinds.
Jon graduated summa cum laude from Bryan College with a degree in Business Administration: Informational Management, and magna cum laude with a degree in Computer Science. He is a member of The Project Management Institute and The American Society of Appraisers.
These grades describe how worn a figurine is. They follow rules used for years to keep things clear when buying, selling, or talking about Hummels. Grading helps with consistency in the buying, selling, and advertising of Hummel figurines.
Unused Grades
The term UNUSED refers to a piece which has never been used. It has never been handled, displayed or removed from its packaging. The unused grades range from a perfect A+ to an unused but showing faint signs of age without crazing or fading (B).
Unused figurines can be divided into four major grades:
A+
Mint in Box (OMP)
On a scale of 1 to 10, it is a 10.
Perfect, i.e. - in OMP (original manufacture's packaging). brilliant, unusually bright, as new. Example is in brand new condition, includes the original box and all original paperwork (if applicable) included in the box at the time of original purchase. The box itself is in near-perfect condition and contains little, if any flaws. The item inside the box is in brand new condition and has no flaws.
Seldom used by professionals since it represents perfection...and perfection is extremely rare.
A
Mint or aka M
On a scale of 1 to 10, it is a 9.
Virtually flawless but lacking the OMP (original manufacturer's packaging). Superb. Example is in like new condition, may or may not include the original box (if applicable) and may or may not include original paperwork (if applicable) that was included in the box at the time of original purchase. The box itself is in almost new condition but may possess a few minor flaws such as light corner dings, small creases in the box or even small scratches on the box. The item inside the box is in brand new condition and has no flaws.
A-
Near Mint or NM
On a scale of 1 to 10, it is a 8.
Almost perfect. Item may have very slight fading in an unobtrusive area of the item, but otherwise without any scratches, chips, nicks, dings, flakes, fading, or other flaws. Deep, rich color with excellent original patina and gloss.
B+
Very Fine or VF
On a scale of 1 to 10, it is a 7.
An exceptional example. Acceptable to all but the most finicky collector. This is a sharp, almost perfect example. The item may have very minor crazing but not on the face. The bottom of base may h
Block Letter Zippo Logo
Flat
Round
Zippo Logo Transition from Block to Script
Post 1978 Zippo Logo
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1895-1905 Tangs Stamps
Henckel Tang Stamp Dating Chart
