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How can I tell the date of my Case knife?

Note: The fixed blade knife dating guide is at the bottom of this page.
Since its inception in 1889, the Case Knife Company has been at the forefront of knife manufacturing. Collectors of Case knives have the unique opportunity to hold pieces of American history in their hands, with knives from each era of the company's production. Each knife isn't just a tool; it's a piece of art that represents a specific time in craftsmanship and industry.

Decoding the Age of a Case Knife

This article is here to sharpen your skills in dating your Case knives by looking at their tang stamps. But what exactly is a tang stamp? It's a marking found on the blade—often at the handle—that usually includes the brand name and often includes the production year of the knife. Case has been one of the few companies that consistently has used tang stamps to date their knives throughout their history, making it easier for collectors to verify and appreciate the age of their collectibles.

Use this handy tang stamp guide as a way to determining the age of your beautiful Case knives.

Case Select

Case Select tang

Oddball Tangs

other tang stamps Case Knife

Pre-1920

1910 Case Knife

1920-1940 Case Tested XX era

1920s Case Knife

1940-1964 Case XX era

1940s Case Knife

1950-1964 Case XX era — Stainless

1950s Case Knife

1965-1969 Case XX era

1960s Case Knife

1970s

1970s Case Knife 10 dots → 1970
9 dots → 1971
8 dots → 1972
7 dots → 1973
6 dots → 1974
5 dots → 1975
4 dots → 1976
3 dots → 1977
2 dots → 1978
1 dot → 1979

1980s

1980s Case Knife 10 dots → 1980
9 dots → 1981
8 dots → 1982
7 dots → 1983
6 dots → 1984
5 dots → 1985
4 dots → 1986
3 dots → 1987
2 dots → 1988
1 dot → 1989

1990s

1990s Case Knife 19 USA 90 1990 → date stamped
19 USA 91 1991 → date stamped
19 USA 92 1992 → date stamped
19 USA 93 1993 → date stamped
1995 Case Knife 7 dots → 1993
6 dots → 1994
5 dots → 1995
4 dots → 1996
3 dots → 1997
2 dots → 1998
1 dot → 1999

2000s

2000 Case Knife 5 x 5 dots → 2000
5 x 4 dots → 2001
5 x 3 dots → 2002
5 x 2 dots → 2003
5 x 1 dots → 2004
5 x 0 dots → 2005
4 x → 2006
3 x → 2007
2 x → 2008
1 x → 2009

2010s

2010 Case Knife 5 x 5 dots → 2010
5 x 4 dots → 2011
5 x 3 dots → 2012
5 x 2 dots → 2013
5 x 1 dots → 2014
5 x 0 dots → 2015
4 x → 2016
3 x → 2017
2 x → 2018
1 x → 2019

2020s

2020 Case Knife NOTE: We've seen all block letters on the tang (exactly like the 1970s) and also tangs with block letters and a lightning S. The main feature of the 2020s is they are reusing the old dot style from the 1970s.
10 dots → 2020
9 dots → 2021
8 dots → 2022
7 dots → 2023
6 dots → 2024
5 dots → 2025
4 dots → 2026
3 dots → 2027
2 dots → 2028
1 dot → 2029

Fixed Blade Knives

Fixed Blade Case Knife

Who buys Case knife collections today?

Finding buyers for Case knife collections can be challenging due to the aging of the market participants and the general decline in the economy. The market has seen a decline in dedicated dealers, largely due to older dealers retiring and a decreased interest among younger people to collect much of anything. This shift has led to fluctuating market values, making it more important than ever to understand who is buying and what they are looking for in a collection. That's not to say the market for Case knives is dead. It is not. But finding someone in your area to buy your entire collection lock, stock, and barrel might not be too easy.

In Closing

Whether you're a seasoned collector or new to the world of knife collecting, understanding how to date your Case knives is key to appreciating their worth and historical significance. Remember, each stamp, each blade has a story, and with a little knowledge, you can uncover the tales of craftsmanship that make your collection truly unique. Happy collecting!

About Our Sponsor

This article is sponsored by 2nd Markets of Nashville, Tennessee. Recognized as one of the top buyers of Case knife collections in the United States, 2nd Markets offers expertise and passion for these classic collectibles. If you're looking to assess the value of your collection or find a new home for your knives, contact them. Google: 2ND MARKETS KNIFE BUYER or go to https://www.2ndmarkets.com/sell-knife-collection.aspx

How do I make a proper inventory list of my knife collection?

Before considering the sale of your valuable knife collection, it's paramount to create a detailed inventory list. This critical document is often the first thing requested by prospective buyers. Collectors and dealers rely on specific information to gauge their interest and propose a fair price. Without a detailed inventory, assessing the value and interest in your collection can be difficult or impossible. For those new to the world of knife collecting, the task may appear daunting. However, this guide aims to simplify the process, ensuring you cover all necessary details efficiently.

iGuide suggests utilizing a spreadsheet application, such as Google Sheets or Microsoft Excel, for inventory management. Google Sheets is particularly favored among buyers for its accessibility and is available at no cost with a Gmail account. Creating a Gmail account is straightforward and can be done by searching for "FREE GMAIL ACCOUNT" online.
(detail from a Google Sheets page) knife sheet example

What are the key details buyers need to know?

A good list will contain these key points at a minimum:

Brand

knife tang stamp brand example

The brand or maker of your knife will usually be printed on the handle, often on the shield (the little metal tag on the handle) or on the blade near where the blade and the handle connect. This tiny text printed on the blade is called the TANG STAMP.

Model Number

knife model number example

The MODEL or PATTERN number of your knife is very important. It is usually stamped on the TANG STAMP. Write all the text, for example: 3254 SS.

Blades

knife blades example

How many blades does the knife have?

Year of Production

knife year example

Do you know? Often the year is printed on the knife blade or on its box if you still have it. This is very helpful information, but optional.

Condition

State whether the knife is USED or LIKE NEW. If it is in the original box, mention it.

Quantity

How many do you have? The answer goes into your quantity column.

Country

knife country of production example

What country was the knife made in? This too can often be found on one of the tang stamps, or on the box if you have it.

Special Notes

knife noye example

Sometimes you may have a limited edition, or a commemorative knife. There may be some text and art printed on the blade. This is important information. Include it in your Notes column.

Who buys knife collections today?

One of the top buyers of fine knife collections is 2nd Markets of Nashville, TN. Google 2ND MARKETS BBB PROFILE to learn more.

Learn More About Knife Values

iGuide’s knife price guide is a good place to find the pricing information about your knife collection and its current value. Learn more. This guide provides a starting point for creating an inventory list of your knife collection. By documenting your collection thoroughly, you're not only preparing for potential sales but also preserving the history and value of your cherished items.

A Pocketful of History: The Case Knife Company

For over 130 years, Case knives have been trusted companions for farmers, ranchers, cowboys, and everyday folks alike. But the story behind these iconic American blades goes deeper than just utility. It's a tale of family, craftsmanship, and an unwavering commitment to quality.

From Wagon to Workshop

The saga begins in 1889, when the Case brothers – William Russell, Jean, John, and Andrew – started selling handcrafted knives from their horse-drawn wagon in upstate New York. Their dedication to quality quickly built a reputation, leading to the formation of the Case Brothers Cutlery Company in 1900.

Taking Root in Bradford

In 1905, seeking expansion, the company relocated to Bradford, Pennsylvania, where it remains today. John Russell Case, son of William Russell, formed W.R. Case & Sons. Under his leadership, the company thrived, establishing its "Tested XX" trademark, signifying blades tempered twice for superior strength.

A Legacy Forged in War and Peace

Case knives played a crucial role in both World Wars, supplying sturdy pocketknives and utility blades to American soldiers. These wartime models are now prized collectibles. And beyond battlefields, Case knives became ubiquitous tools for farmers, ranchers, and anyone needing a reliable cutting companion.

More Than Just Blades

While pocketknives remain their core, Case expanded its offerings over the years. From fixed-blade hunting knives to kitchen cutlery and commemorative collectibles, the brand caters to diverse needs while maintaining its focus on quality and craftsmanship.

Carrying on the Tradition

Today, W.R. Case & Sons remains family-owned and operated, carrying on the legacy of its founders. Each knife is a testament to their commitment to quality, using time-tested techniques and premium materials. And as they forge ahead, Case knives continue to be more than just tools, they're symbols of American heritage, passed down through generations and trusted by those who value tradition and craftsmanship. So, the next time you pull out your Case knife, remember the rich history it embodies. It's not just a blade, it's a piece of Americana, ready to tackle any task, big or small.

Fight'n Rooster: Where Grit Meets Craftsmanship

The Fight'n Rooster brand holds a unique niche amongst collectors thanks to its blend of German craftsmanship and distinctive designs. Here's a glimpse into its story:

The Rooster Crows in 1976

The Fight'n Rooster brand was born in 1976, the brainchild of Frank Busterf of Lebanon, Tennessee. Dissatisfied with American manufacturers fulfilling his special order requests, he embarked on a different path.

Destination: Solingen, Germany

Frank partnered with the renowned Olbertz factory in Solingen, Germany, known for its expertise in knifemaking. He drew inspiration from vintage celluloid patterns of the 1940s, breathing new life into them with German steel and craftsmanship.

Mark of the Roosters

Early Fight'n Rooster knives (1976-1982) displayed a simple tang stamp with two fighting roosters and "Solingen" or "Germany" markings. Later iterations saw the addition of "Frank Buster Cutlery Company" and "Frank Buster Celebrated Cutlery" alongside the roosters.

Beyond Pocketknives

While traditionally known for pocketknives like stockmans and trappers, Fight'n Rooster expanded its repertoire. Fixed-blade knives, hunting companions, and even commemorative pieces showcased the brand's versatility.

A Family Affair

Following Frank's passing in 2007, his son Stirling Buster carried the torch. Today, under Stirling's stewardship, Fight'n Rooster knives continue to be produced in Solingen, maintaining the brand's focus on quality and distinct aesthetics.

Legacy of Passion

Though not as widely recognized as some American giants, Fight'n Rooster holds a special place in the hearts of collectors. Their knives embody a unique blend of German precision and Frank's original vision, offering a distinct alternative to mainstream brands.

Collecting the Crowing

Dating Fight'n Rooster knives can be tricky due to production overlaps and tang stamp variations. Collectors rely on resources like Joe Parker's "Fight'n Rooster Knives Reference Guide" and forums like BladeForums to navigate the nuances.

Looking Ahead

Today, Fight'n Rooster remains a relatively small operation, but its dedicated following ensures its place in the knife world. Whether you're a seasoned collector or simply appreciate unique craftsmanship, a Fight'n Rooster knife holds within it a story of passion, grit, and the unwavering spirit of the Fighting Roosters themselves.

Sharpened Passions — A Glimpse into the World of Knife Collecting

Knives, from their humble beginnings as tools of survival, have evolved into objects of art, history, and personal interest. Knife collecting, spanning centuries and continents, reflects this multifaceted appeal. Delve into this intriguing world with us:

From Antiquity to Auction

While collecting artifacts like weapons and tools pre-dates recorded history, organized knife collecting is relatively recent. The late 19th century saw a surge in interest, fueled by growing affluence and fascination with American westward expansion. Early collectors focused on historical pieces like Bowie knives and military blades.

The 20th Century Boom

The 20th century witnessed a boom in knife collecting, with specialized clubs, publications, and shows emerging. New categories like custom knives and tactical folders entered the scene, broadening the collector's landscape.

Who Collects the Blade?

The diverse world of knife collectors attracts individuals with various motivations:
  • The Historian — Drawn to the past, they seek knives that tell stories of wars, cultures, or specific historical figures.
  • The Craftsman — Appreciating meticulous design and engineering, they value knives made with exceptional materials and techniques.
  • The Investor — Seeking financial gain, they focus on rare, limited-edition, or vintage pieces with potential market appreciation.
  • The Practical Collector — They combine interest with utility, collecting knives for everyday use while appreciating their value as collectibles.

Market Values: A Double-Edged Sword

The value of a collectible knife is influenced by several factors, including:
  • Age and Rarity — Older, rarer knives generally command higher prices.
  • Condition — Mint condition significantly increases value.
  • Maker and Provenance — Renowned makers and documented history raise desirability.
  • Market Trends — Popular patterns and materials fluctuate in value over time.
It's crucial to remember that the market value shouldn't solely drive collecting. Genuine passion, a thirst for knowledge, and appreciation for history and craftsmanship are the cornerstones of this fulfilling hobby.

The Future of Sharpened Passions

Knife collecting continues to evolve, embracing online communities and forums, attracting younger generations, and expanding its scope to include modern tactical and artistic designs. While market values remain significant, the true allure lies in the stories each blade whispers, the craftsmanship it embodies, and the connection it offers to history and heritage. So, whether you're drawn to the practical edge of a pocketknife or the historical weight of a military dagger, the world of knife collecting welcomes you with a treasure trove of stories and blades waiting to be discovered. Just remember, the most valuable collection is the one built on genuine passion and appreciation.

Related Links

iGuide's Knife Collector Guide

How can I identify my Cattaraugus Cutlery Company Knife?

The Cattaraugus Cutlery Company stamped nearly all of their knives with pattern numbers in a unique numbering system. They may have also denoted different blades and colors of handles with letter abbreviations, but this is rare.

The first figure of the pattern number indicates the number of blades (1 means one blade, etc.).

The second figure indicates the number and type of bolsters:
0 = no bolsters
1 = front bolster only
2 = front and rear bolsters
3 -- tip style bolsters
5 = diagonal (slant) bolsters


The last figure of the pattern number denotes the type of handle material used:
1 = white fiberoid
2 = french pearl
3 = genuine mother of pearl
4 = celluloid
5 = genuine stag
6 = ebony
7 = concobola
8 = white bone
9 = stag bone


The remaining numbers (3rd and 4th in most cases) are the pattern number.

Beware: after Cattaraugus went out of business, someone bought the remaining parts and assembled them, resulting in low quality, crude examples. Also, the stamping on these later knives is very poor. Do not confuse these later knives with original manufacture.

W. R. Case & Sons Pattern Numbering System

W. R. Case & Sons did not stamp the pattern number on their knives consistently until 1949. However, the pattern number has always been used at the factory level for purposes of records, cataloging, etc. I feel that, after you become familiar with the system, you will agree that is it very comprehensive.

Case uses abbreviated letters following the pattern number to identify various types of blades. Briefly, let us look at a pattern number and its abbreviated letters. For example, let us take pattern number: 6347 SH SP SSP. To the new collector, this number might seem complicated, but, a little time spent studying this article should make it very easy to understand.

NOTE: When a zero (0) appears before the first number or in the middle of the pattern number, it signifies that the pattern is a modification of another pattern.

The FIRST NUMBER designates the type of handle material used. It is coded as follows:
  • (1) – Walnut
  • (2) – Black Composite
  • (3) – Cream
  • (4) – White composition
  • (5) – Genuine Stag
  • (6) – Bone Stag, Delrin, or Laminated Wood
  • (7) – Black Celluloid
  • (8) – Genuine Mother of Pearl
  • (9) – Imitation Pearl
NOTE: some handle materials are identified by a letter instead of a number. These letters and the material they represent are as follows:
  • P – Pakkawood handle
  • S – Silver & Gold handle
  • M – Metal & Stainless Steel handle
  • T – Toledo Scale handle
The SECOND NUMBER represents the number of blades.

The THIRD and FOURTH NUMBERS are the factory pattern. When a (1/2) follows the pattern it indicates that the master blade is of the “clip” style.

Next we come to the abbreviated letters following the pattern number. These letters identify the type of blades used. These letters are coded as follows:
  • SAB – Master Blade is Saber Ground
  • SP – Spay Blade
  • P – Punch Blade
  • RAZ – Razor or “One Arm Man” Blade
  • F – File Blade
  • PEN – Pen Blade
  • In addition to the abbreviated letters listed above you will note the following letters stamped on the blade following the abbreviated letters. This letter will help you in identifying individual patterns. They are as follows
    • L – Blade locked when open
    • EO – Easy Open
    • SCIS or SC – Scissors
    • SHAD or S – Shallow (No Bolsters
    • SS – Stainless Steel Blades & Springs
    • SSP – Stainless Steel Blades & Springs (Polished)
    • DR – Bolsters Drilled for Lanyard
    • R – Bail in Handle
    • T – Tip Bolsters

Should I sell on eBay?

When one of our friends asked us about selling things on eBay my wife quipped "If you’d rather see it go away than thrown away you won't be disappointed" and I’ve been repeating that to people ever since. While it’s true that you can make money selling things on eBay it’s equally true that you can’t really predict what will sell or how much you might make on any given item. As has always been true with sales, there are intangible, unpredictable variables which can affect the outcome but here are a few things we’ve learned that we feel are important.

First, some quick questions and answers:>
Question: Does it cost money to list things on ebay? Answer: Yes.
Question: Do I have to give personal information and credit card information to ebay in order top open an account? Answer: Yes.
Question: Do I have to pay ebay even if my item does not sell? Answer: Yes.


Now on to some general info about selling on ebay.com

Your Item Title is very important
Your item title (which you come up with yourself) may well be the single most important part of any eBay listing. This is what the search engine pays the most attention to and this is what is most visible to a potential buyer who’s scanning through a row of search results. To create a good title, write down all the words that apply to the item, prioritize the words using your "best guess" as to their search-engine importance and construct your title using the most important words first. To do this properly you have to know something about the item you’re listing so "get with google" and study up on anything you wish to sell but don‘t know anything about. I’ll give you an example based on a topic I’ve recently researched:

A few years ago the Marshall Electronics Corporation created a small revolution in the home and small business recording industry by introducing the MXL 2001 large diaphragm condenser microphone which sold for under $100. The nearest thing to it at the time was about triple the price and of no better quality. Marshall has since added a number of other microphones to the MXL product line but the 2001 remains a popular seller whether new or used.

The Behringer Corporation, based in Germany, has in recent years become well known for manufacturing professional quality mixers, amplifiers and other sound system components which sell for extremely competitive prices.

So, if I wanted to sell an MXL 2001 and a small Behringer mixer as a package deal I would not write my title as


Behringer UB802 Eurorack Mixer With Marshall Microphone

In light of the background I’ve provided, can you see what’s wrong with this listing?

Don‘t get me wrong, there’s nothing wrong with Behringer, I love their equipment in fact but if you intend to sell a revolutionary microphone and an economical mixer on eBay, list the microphone first and be specific in your listing.


Here’s how I would list this item:

MXL 2001 Microphone and Behringer UB802 Eurorack Mixer

Because of the continued popularity of this particular microphone, listing it accurately and mentioning it first would probably result in the auction having more watchers so there'll be more participants in the "bidding frenzy," which normally starts a few minutes before the auction closes. With more watchers it's highly probable that the winning bid will be higher than it would have been with the first listing. My wife, who’s my co-writer, editor and proofreader asked why I explained this in such a convoluted manner; she had trouble understanding my point so I’ll try to say this again in a simpler way. Before you write the title for an item, ask yourself a simple question; "If I were looking for one of these on eBay, what would I type into the search window?" The words which answer this question are the words which should begin your title.

The Photo: This is probably the second most important part of an eBay listing and it's a close second at that. If you're not selling a brand-new item which is still in the unopened original box don't try to find a photograph on the web with an image search and do not list an item on eBay for sale or auction without a photograph, no matter what it is. Take a picture of the actual item you wish to sell and make sure it's a good photo. If you don't own a good digital camera, with macro capabilities for close up shots of small items, it's an investment you should consider.

The Description: It goes without saying that the description of your auction item must be totally honest. Make it as detailed as possible and if there’s anything you aren't sure of, be sure and put that in your description too. What you absolutely mustn't do is put negative information in your description. Here are some example sentences:

"I don't want bids from people like Kevin, everyone knows he’s a jerk."

"I'll give you positive feedback as soon as you give me positive feedback."

"I don't know if it works so I’m selling it AS IS. If you buy it and it doesn't work, don't even think of returning it."

"I’m an honest businessman so don't jerk me around, move on if you aren't serious."

Each of these examples represents a great way to shoot yourself in the foot. Yep, that's right, sellers who put sentences like these in their descriptions are chasing away potential customers by undermining their own credibility. I’ll break them down in order for you.

If you want to bad-mouth the buyer who got to you, do it somewhere else,putting personal invective in your description says to me "I'm eally stupid and I like to whine so don' buy anything from me, ok?" Maybe that seems cold to you but that's how I see it and you won‘t have to deal with me because I won‘t be bidding on any of your auctions. Moreover, a lot of other potential buyers will have the very same reaction.

The only important thing you, as a seller, can say about a customer is whether or not he paid you. Nobody cares if the buyer is a hippy-type-pinko-(um, well you know), or if he was rude to you, as long as he paid you. If he paid you give him positive feedback right away. If he paid you as soon as the auction closed then give him really good feedback with lots of exclamation points and plus signs; if he paid you four days after the auction closed give him positive feedback and a thank you. If you don't do that and are then tempted to send him a follow up letter reminding him to give you positive feedback, resist the temptation. In business there is no greater sin than insulting a customer's intelligence.

If it doesn't work, say it doesn't work; if it works, say it works; if you don't know and you’re willing to trust your customer to test it then promise a refund if it doesn't work. If you can’t bring yourself to promise a refund, don't sell it on eBay.

Every dishonest person I've ever known was ready to tell you often, and in a loud voice, that he was an honest person. If you mentioned specific instances where his conduct might have been less than honest he had a fully prepared dialog explaining how it wasn't his fault. Maybe I'm paranoid but if you feel compelled to tell me how honest you are, I feel compelled to wonder if you're telling the truth and hey, my money's as good as anybody's so don't question my intent. The simple fact is that eBay will only work if we're willing to conditionally extend some trust to one another. Don't tell a potential buyer up-front that you don't trust him and then expect him to trust you.

Reserve Pricing: All I can say about a reserve price is don't set a reserve price. Reserve prices are hidden and therefore "sneaky," meaning they have negative connotations which means buyers don't like them. If you won't take less than a hundred dollars for it, then set the minimum bid at a hundred dollars. That puts the cards on the table for everyone to see. If your expectations are unrealistic it won't sell and you'll pay a larger fee, because the listing fee is a percentage of the minimum bid and you pay the fee whether or not it sells, but that's the price of knowledge. Pay it and move on.

Shipping Charges: If you don't have a postal scale, buy one, you're going to need it. Which one you need depends on what you're trying to sell because they come in ranges. Zero to thirty-five pounds is, for example, a popular size which seemed suitable for us so that's what we bought (for about $30) and it's served us well. If you want to know more about scales, read this.

A lot of buyers go to great lengths to avoid paying extra listing fees and one common trick is to jack up the shipping charge, using it as a means of setting a minimum return on an item. The problem with this practice is simply that buyers aren't stupid; they know about what shipping costs so they can see when a seller sets it ridiculously high and they reward him by moving on without electing to watch, much less bid on, the item. I don't have any idea what works for other sellers but I select a box or bubble envelope to ship the item in, place the item in the box/envelope, throw in what I estimate is enough packing material, weigh it, add an ounce, go to the postage calculator at the USPS.com website, plug in my zip code and the zip code for Nome, Alaska (99762, which I figure is a fairly good "worst case" destination), add a dollar and that's the shipping charge I use with my auction. Why the dollar? Well, I list all my auctions with an opening bid of 99 cents and every now and then I write an ineffective title which only attracts one watcher who wisely waits until the last minute to win the item with a 99 cent bid. In that instance, unless I made a mistake in calculating the shipping charges I'll make about two dollars on the auction which somehow feels better than 99 cents. There's just something sad and futile about making less than a dollar.

Gallery Photos: When you specify a gallery photo, which costs a little more, eBay puts a thumbnail (i.e. reduced size) photo of your auction item in the search results listings. One of my friends insists that you'll make far more than enough to pay the extra fee by always opting for the gallery photo and I've decided that he's probably right. I feel like it's silly to opt for the gallery image when you're selling small, inexpensive items with well written descriptions. In my case, that would be guitar picks which I feel like I did very well on without gallery images but I can’t prove it because I didn’t try listing any of them with gallery images and I’ve already sold all I had. I've got no basis for comparison but I’m inclined to give him the benefit of the doubt.

Make the customer happy: If you sell something that you thought was working but the customer insists it isn’t working, don't quibble with him. Promise him a refund if he returns it and follow through. Don‘t just refund what he paid you, add in enough to cover the cost of return shipping. Whatever it takes, leave him happy. If you take a loss, so be it; that’s the cost of doing business. Money can’t buy a 100% positive feedback rating, you have to earn it by doing the right thing, every time, no matter that it sometimes costs you a few dollars.

Tips and Tricks:



Don‘t buy packing materials if you can help it. Empty styrofoam egg cartons, when closed, make strong, lightweight packaging material. Plastic shopping bags, which seem to be everywhere these days, can be wadded up and used for packing material.

Scrounge packing boxes where you can find them. If they happen to have a lot of printing on the outside of the box you can cut them apart with a good sharp kitchen knife (bought on-the-cheap from a flea market or garage sale) and reglue (or tape) them inside out. Supermarkets, as a general rule, have cardboard baling machines and they recycle cardboard. Convenience store workers have to break them down and wag them to the dumpster so find out what day the stock truck comes in at your local convenience store and drop by while they’re "busting freight"; they’ll be totally delighted to let you carry off a pile of boxes.

Bubble envelopes are, for some reason, expensive in most retail stores. If you know you’ll be selling a lot of small items, you can save some serious bucks by googling for bubble envelopes in bulk. Because they weigh very little, the shipping charges are normally modest so the unit cost on a case of 500 bubble envelopes can be as much as 75% less than you’d pay in local stores. If you live in a fairly sizable town where there’s more stores, and more competition, this might not be true but either way, it’s worth doing some research and if you decide you have way more than you need, what the heck, you can always sell them on eBay.

Jon Warren

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